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GrantGoodale

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  1. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to frenchguy in Benjamin W Latham by frenchguy - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 Scale   
    Well, it has been a very busy summer, but not for model building!
    I finally find the time to go back to my Benjamin Latham build. I completed the deck planking, and after a bit more preparation, I'll start painting.
    Here are a couple of pics from the deck planking final steps.
     

     
    almost done!
     

     
    I installed the thick pads for the mast and fifes rails. The thick pad for the windlass, I'll install after the deck is painted (lots of  masking tape in that area). 
  2. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to markjay in Cutty Sark by markjay - Mantua/Sergal   
    Coppering is progressing, starboard waterway ports cut;

     



  3. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to markjay in Cutty Sark by markjay - Mantua/Sergal   
    Second planking done, filling and sanding underway...

     



  4. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to markjay in Cutty Sark by markjay - Mantua/Sergal   
    Second planking underway, transom needs to be resolved;

     




  5. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to jbelwood in Heroine 1838 by ggrieco - FINISHED - Scale 1:24 - Western River Steamboat as she appeared before hitting a snag in the Red River   
    Hi Glenn,
     
    Been following your build from the beginning. Here's an idea I came up with for my water line hull
    C.R.Lamb stern wheeler. As I wanted to picture her afloat in a water diorama this worked out
    great. Most viewers don't realize what I did.
     
    John 



  6. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to jack.aubrey in Gokstad Viking Ship by jack.aubrey - FINISHED - Dusek Ship Kits - 1:35 Scale   
    Many thanks to all of you for the likes and positive appreciations of my work. Thanks again, Jack.
     
    Tuesday, March 29, 2016
     
    Having finished the hull, at least regarding the general appearance, I started the covering of the deck. Task without any particular difficulty, requiring only patience and precision.
     
    Below the images of the model when I reached one half of the deck planking task. Enjoy them, Jack.
     
    01 20160330_103606.jpg

    02 20160330_103556.jpg

     
  7. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to pirozzi in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70   
    The upper and lower cheeks along with the decorative strip are added. At the very forward end of the decorative strip, a slot has to be cut into and through the stem for the forward gammoning ropes.
     
    Vince P.


  8. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Ulises Victoria in Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French 126-gun ship   
    Embarrasing update: (Keep reading)
     
    Working this part:

     

     

     

     

     

     
    Here comes the embarrasing part and asking for advise.
     

     
    The opening at the far left should have been next to the grating, not the end of the frame. 
     
    Options: Do it all again. Out of the question. I have no more gratings.
     
    "Invent" a small grating there and do the opening in the right place.
     
    "Invent" a hatch there " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " " "
     
    "Cut, rotate and paste" Outer corners won't have a 45º angle of which I am most proud of.     
     
    What would you do???
     
    Thanks in advance.
     
    Ulises
  9. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Ulises Victoria in Royal Louis 1780 by Ulises Victoria - FINISHED - Mamoli - Scale 1/90 - French 126-gun ship   
    Update April 12 2016. BTW April 10 2014 was the day I started this build log, and April 11 actual work on my ship began. So today is exactly 2 years and one day that I started this ship.
     
    Central hatchway (whatever that means ) is completed except for a couple of ladders that go down at the stern side (left in the photos) opening. I don't like the kit supplied ladders so I will substitute them later.
     

     

     

     
    I decided to paint the gratings flat black. This may or may not be authentic or historically correct, but I really like how they look.
    BTW these gratings had to endure a heavy treatment of sawing and sanding to make them fit. So, the gluing technique I described before, really works.
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
    I painted the top of these bulkheads black to avoid them showing through the gratings.
     

     
    Hatchway dry fitted in place to check for correct fitting. All good!

     
     
    Thanks for watching, friends!!!
  10. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to scott larkins in USS Niagara by scott larkins - Model Shipways - 1:64   
    Got in a couple of good full days of work on the outside upper walls on my ship.  Here are the pics.
     

    Unpainted bow wood work.  Looks like I got lucky with the two different wood thicknesses.  I did have to soak the thicker pieces of wood in hot water to get them to bend but not really a difficult issue.  The thinner planks I had no issues with.
     

    Yep, I painted the top rail black. I initially painted it the model suggested buff and I didn't think it looked right.  I looked at Niagara ship pictures from over the years that were taken by ship visitors.  I noticed that the top rail had been pained buff, yellow ocra and black.  So I opted for the black. I thought it flowed better.
     

     

     

    And the unpainted sides vs the painted sides. The most difficult part was trying to paint that little lip on the thicker wood.  Small brush and a steady hand...... and of course some scraping and repainted where I goofed.  LOL  No one's perfect.
     

    And finally the stern.  For some reason those back rope chocks look like they are angled down in the pic but they aren't.  I used a very small jewel's file to file down into the wood and then used a jeweler's hack saw blade, without the hack saw, to cut out the little lower wider rope area.  Then I glued the whole piece into place.
     
     
  11. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to mhmtyrl in Çektirme by mhmtyrl - FINISHED - Black Sea Coaster   
    Hello everybody
     
    I started my model "Çektirme", a classical coaster. These coasters have been in service for many years in black sea reagon for mainly cargo transportation between docks. due to mass usage of timber, production was abondened around 1990's. 
    this type has both sails and an engine, typical of the ones in service around 1950's.
     
     
    I am finished with planking, some weathering is applied via coal powder. details are applied via pastel powder and brush. eventually all the body and the deck will be painted, so  I used not much detailed weathering.
     
     
    mehmet



  12. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to rtropp in US Brig Syren by rtropp - Model Shipways - 1:64   
    Hi all,
    I am working steadily on the build but the updates to the log are a little behind so I will try to catch up here. Also, have family visiting from California, with small children, so will probably not have much time.
     
    The following is my build for the lower deck. I glued a few pieces together to test finishes. I used MinWax Golden Oak. I was having difficulty gluing the small planks side to side, so I used a piece of freezer paper as a base and glued some planking to it, then, after both gluing and staining, peeled the paper away. Pretty easy.
     

     
    Next I made the lower deck full size. I found it easier to use the freezer paper as a glue and peel base rather than gluing each plank individually. I used a soft pencil for the caulking. Anything else I tried, watercolor markers, stain markers, etc., all allowed the color to spread through the wood so pencil worked best for me.
     

     
    Next it was time for gun and sweep sills/lintels etc.
     
    I found it really hard to cut and sand right angles. I was cutting a little large to enable fitting, but then my sanding ruined the angle. I tried two similar jigs.
    For cutting:

     
    and for sanding:

     
    The piece to be cut was placed along the corner where the two jig pieces meet, then cut or sanded against the edge. These worked ok, but since I used the same wood as the kit, the jigs eventually were distorted. (I should not have been surprised at that outcome!!) And since I still was lousy at cutting right angles could not just cut away to reshape edge. (Catch 22??)
     
    About this time my plastic hobby miter box arrived and that took care of the right angle cutting. Sanding was still a problem. Even with the right angle jig, the hand held sanding block was still not giving me a good right angle. So I took out the my new Dremel tool stand to see what I could cobble together.
     


    You can see the that the Dremel holder is set up side ways. This allows me to use the handle to move the sanding head forward (laterally). I am using the dremel quick release sanding head because it is smooth all the way across with no screw head protruding. I also tried the Proxxon sanding head, which I like better, but it is smaller so more difficult to use. A ruined plastic Miter box is used to hold the wood piece. After squaring everything up, all I do is put the piece against the side of the miter, move the piece a small bit so it clears the end of the plastic miter box and then use the handle on the dremel stand to move the sanding head in towards it. It is producing a nicely squared sanding that I can keep going back to until the part fits. What's nice is that this sands to a square head even if the part is not cut squarely. (I'm so proud of me!!)
    Also, you will notice the hose end from my shop vacuum clamped near the sander. It really works, and since I work in our sunroom, keeps everyone happy.
     
    Below is the completion of the sills.
     

     
    The bad news is that I am not really happy with the result. It is not as "faired" as I would want it to be. Part the problem is skill. Part was the need repair/replace many of the bulwarks (thin pieces at top of frames) because they were burned badly enough that the centery ply would crumble. My repair job was not... well, not great. So, the gun and sweep ports are difficult to fair. Also, the top of the lintel is not as straight horizontally across the ship as it should be, not sure how this will impact that top rail. I have tried to smooth and even out as much as I can without thinning the wood too much.
    After much thought, I decided not to redo the work because that would mean reworking from the beginning with the bulkhead former. Instead, I will push ahead with the planking and see how it turns out before making that decision. I also checked the other laser cut parts and, now that I know what to look for, ordered replacements for those that look bad.
     
    Next I painted the gun and sweep ports. I obtained an airbrush for another project and decided to use it when painting the kit. Lots of new experiences here.
     

     
     
    And that brings it up to date for now.
     
    I would appreciate getting your input, not just to the build itself, but whether this log is ok or if I am being too wordy!
     
    Richard
  13. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to JerryGreening in Bonhomme Richard by JerryGreening - 1:48 scale   
    The framing continues, though I took a little break from working on the hull to play with the little Unimat lathe a bit. I gave turning some cannon barrels a go.






  14. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to rafine in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED   
    Well, I finally made up my mind on the braces. Let's just say that my heart  overcame my head (the purists can line up over here and start beating me around the head    ). This completes the rigging.
     
    While I was agonizing on the brace issue, I made up the two anchors. Given my longtime aversion to metal work, the anchors are made entirely of sheet and strip boxwood. The bands on the stocks are black painted paper. The rings are wire bent to shape, with .025" line wrapped around them for the puddening. I'm still at a loss, even after consulting with Chuck and reviewing photos of contemporary models, as to how to mount the anchors. I've tried a few ways and nothing seems quite right.
     
    Bob










  15. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Bedford in Francis Pritt by Jim Lad - FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - Australian Mission Ship   
    Hey John, guess where I was last weekend??
     

     
    She really looks beautiful.
     
    I did say I was going to have to come see it. The Shackleton exhibition was just a sideline reason for going.
  16. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to John Maguire in REVENGE by John Maguire - Amati/Victory Models - build in the Cougar Mountain Shipyard   
    Doc, thanks .  .  .
     
    Request Help:
     
    One of you folks mentioned that you are working on REVENGE rigging, I don't recall who or in what thread you made the comment. If you find this post, would you please be kind enough to explain this square foredeck hole that I believe is intended for the jeering tackle post?
     

     
    Specifically, on page 77 of the manual, lower right corner there is a note that applies to the hole in the grate in the deck above the one I am showing here. It refers to the rigging plans.
     
    I find it on rigging plan page 15 as item 9. It appears that that the lines pass through the hole in the grate and terminate on what appears to be a post sticking out of the hole shown in my photo. Looking at page 75, bottom right corner I see a main yard jeer post part 60. Is this the piece seen in the photo below? If so, won't it be impossible to access it to reeve lines through the sheave slots with the upper deck in place and only the grate opening for access?
     
    Is what I have done in the photo below correct?  Again I'll ask, during rigging is it possible to get the threads into this with the only access through the grate opening above? As shown, the paint color is only primer and the copper eyelet has not been inserted.
     

     
    I am concerned at this early stage because eventually this photographed deck will be covered and there will be no further access.
     
    Comments would be very much appreciated.
     
    Respectfully,
    John Maguire
    Total time 114 hours
     
     
  17. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to mikiek in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build   
    Lots to log this evening. I wish every weekend was this productive.
     
    I'm still painting the bulwarks. To backtrack a little, here's the waterways and port trim started out.
     

     
    As mentioned earlier, I started the outward with a modified yellow. The Tamiya Flat Yellow is just too bright, even after I "browned" it up some.  French's Mustard comes to mind.
     

     
    I've taken Joel's suggestion, rather than a yellow base and adding Buff, I took a Buff base and started adding Flat Yellow and Flat White. It was sort of a "season to taste" excercise. I didn't make notes but I made a pretty big bottle of it. Here's the comparison.
     

     
    The result below. The gunwale will be painted back - a nice contrast. There will be a black shoulder above the gun port ceiling and then the handrail.
     

     
    Prepping the Yellow side for the recolor. For all the masking, I painted the tape edges with Red to keep the other colors from wicking under - 2 coats. This worked out much better than my first painting episode.
     

     
    The one problem with masking, after 3 coats of primer (to cover the Red overage) and 3 coats of color, there is actually an edge when I pulled the tape off.  There's always some hand touch-up after removing the masking, but it looks like I am going to have to touch-up with several coats to build up the the edge. You can see here.
     

     
    I have also completed the strapped deadeyes for the fore top. As I mentioned before, I had to notch the top edges to make a spot for the strap (see pic in previous post). I used a dot of CA to hold the deadeyes in the notches, and then re-glued the reinforcement strap (my own addition) back to the top edge.
     

     

     
    And I have finally taken the plunge and begun gluing the nibbing strake to the deck. After seeing a few pix of Joel's Niagara build, particularly the deck, I had an idea. Rather than making some sort of black filler to fill in the space between the strake and the deck - I have struggled with this for weeks - why not eliminate the space? One of those "duh, moments". So between coats of paint, this afternoon I did a lot more shaping on the strake pieces. There's still some gaps, but it's much better.
     

     
    The outer edge of the strakes still need to be sanded down to fit in between the waterways, but here is the deck just dropped in. Kind of nice looking.
     

     
    With the weekend gone, the painting will go a lot slower, 1 maybe 2 coats per day, instead of 4 or 5. I've still got the inward starboard bulwark to paint and the outward port to recolor. The touch-up around the masked areas is going to be pretty time consuming. I can only do so much of that before the hand starts shaking. Then it's on to the deck. After reading Joel's write-ups, I will be considering using just grating were several structures are called for in the plans. And finally I can get the deck on the boat permanently.
     
     
     
     
  18. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to mikiek in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build   
    Happy DST everyone!  Hope you survived your first night. Personally I hate this, but I would take it if they just keep one or the other. Enough said.
     
    Been busy on several fronts. I've wanted to get to work on the deck structures, so Friday night. I started the Captains Skylight. Not much fun. I really wanted to make the joints at the plank ends, but trying to put a dovetail in a 1/16"x3/32" stick - not likely. So I ended up compromising, by notching the ends. I was trying to hand cut/shape the side planks and going nowhere. No two planks the same length. Same with the notches. By the time I got to the second row the rectangular footprint was starting to look more like a rhombus. A pretty big scrap pile was forming.
     

     
    Frustration set in so I called it a night. Next morning the kid starts thinking.  Time for the secret weapon. Shoulda gone here first.
     

     
    Things start taking shape nicely after that.
     

     
    I've finished a first attempt, including the barred windows and a moveable flap (I thought that was a joke at first). Did not include pix as I am in the middle of painting.
     
    Next up, given that I have the masts assembled, I have been wanting to start some rigging. Not necessarily running line yet but things like adding all the tackle to the mast tops. Deadeyes for the edge of the fore & main tops were first. These are iron strapped with a small loop at the other end. It was funny (or maybe not) - I looked thru all the books I have trying to find a "how-to".  There were tons of pix of the finished product, but I couldn't find a single tutorial in my library. I did find one here at MSW and used that as a starting point.
     
    The kit deadeyes are 1/8" and 3/32". The larger ones are used in the tops. I have been struggling with the deadeye kits from Chuck P.  The first batch I made I lost 50% of them in the block tumbler. I have since improved on that but for the deadeyes described here I used the ones in the kit. They don't look that bad, much better than the blocks.
     
    So as the tutorial describes, I wrapped some .01 brass wire around a 1/4" dowel. The 1/4" came after some trial an error, trying to find the correct length of the wire and then a matching diameter dowel. I slid the coil off the dowel and cut them making rings. Below you can see a sample. Some are still open, some are close fit at then ends.
     

     
    Now time to solder the rings. I struggled with this same exercise a few months back, trying to make rings for the spanker mast. They did not come out well.  At the time I was using a low heat silver paste which may have had something to do with it. I've switched to a gold paste now. I did that mainly for the color, but I have found this mixture just works better for me. For one thing, the joints come out much smoother with less residual. The stuff is VERY forgiving! I did not clean the pieces first and some of the joint ends were not butted together well. All usually bad things for a hard solder. I found that when heated the solder did not ball up at the joint, instead it seemed to fill and the rest just ran out along the wire. Very little cleanup to do afterwards. The paste cost more than a silver, but in my mind it is worth every penny. Your mileage may vary.
     

     

     
    Soldered rings - no touch up
     

     
    So after the soldering is where I broke away from the tutorial. I found I was struggling to take the ring and squeeze a deadeye sized loop on one side then trying to make an additional loop on the other. I made a jig to help me out and it worked quite well. Pardon me if someone else has already done this. I am not trying to plagiarize.
     
    The loop for the deadeye actually has to be larger than the deadeye so the deadeye can be squeezed in afterwards. For the 1/8" deadeye I found a loop of 5/32" works well. The loop on the other end I wanted to be 1/16" So I found 2 short brass rods, one for each dimension. Drilled a couple of holes in some scrap wood and inserted the rods. The distance between the holes being how much iron between the deadeye loop and the small loop on the actual strap.
     
    The ring is then squeezed a little bit to a shape that will fit around both rods. You can see this on the previous pic. I found that it is actually easiest if the shape doesn't quite fit around the rods. I can then stretch an end slightly to get it over the rod and this way the tension keeps the ring from sliding down the rods. Then you take some rounded long nose pliers (probably a better name for these) and quickly squeeze in between the rods. This starts the final shaping. A few more touch up squeezes finishes the shaping.
     

     

     
    I then took each piece and gave it a good squeeze in some parallel jaw pliers to flatten them out.
     

     
    Blackened
     

     
    Finally the deadeye is placed in the loop and a few more squeezes lock it in place.
     

     
    This has worked very well for me considering the first one I made by hand took over an hour and was quite ugly. I finished up 12 of these in under an hour and I think there is still room for improvement.
     
    Last note on this, the plans show holes apparently drilled into the wooden edge of the tops for these deadeyes. Well that just doesn't fly -at least not at my skill level. I ended up notching the edges. I will put the deadeyes in place, possibly with a dot of CA. Then I have a darkened brass strip to place around the entire edge of the top. Actually the strip was already there, I had to tear it off to make the notches.
     

     
    And if all that wasn't enough, I managed to make the starboard side nibbing plankset so the pieces for both sides are finished. I've stained these parts so the color scheme ends up decking - boxwood natural, nibbing - redwood, waterway - red. I'm trying to decide what to use as caulking here. I want a fairly thick stripe between the planks and the deck so just marking the edges with a marker will not be sufficient. I would show the top side of the deck but it sits on the frame (seen here) so it is slightly elevated and I can't fit the nibbing strakes up against it.
     

     
    And with that I will say good night!
  19. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Philg88 in King of the Mississippi by Philg88 - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:80 - with internal and navigation LED lighting   
    State room bulkhead LEDs installed.
     

     
    I added an extra wall to mask the main wiring junction on this deck. The trunking down the centre will carry the LEDs for this deck.
     

     
    This is my creation for use in ceiling lights with LEDs mounted on 5 x 5 mm styrene trunking. Sections can then be "welded" together after soldering using polystyrene cement to hide the wires.
     

     
    Paddlewheel supports also cut and installed.
     

  20. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Erik W in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale   
    Since my progress is slow and steady . . . you get photos of every little step forward!  I added the molding strips on each side, just below the gun ports.  These were actually quite challenging to get a smooth run since they're so narrow.  It's easy to accidentally kink them.  The first side I did I wound up pulling off and reattaching the main strip 4 times, and the short strip in front of the forward gun port 2 times.  I blame Mike (Stuntflyer) for setting the example of pulling things apart and starting over.     The second side went much smoother with no need to start over.
     

     

     

     

     
    Erik
  21. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to RMC in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72   
    I have taken Jdieck's advice and started on the fore and main stays. This means that I will have to finish rigging the bowsprit, so I will have plenty to occupy me while (almost) avoiding the ratlines. The lops of the forestays are now done.  Serving the loops with their mouses (sic?) proved to be rather fiddly and the result could have been better. At least I have learned a few things and I hope to do a better job on the main stays.
     
    Here is the mouse for the fore stay.  The end with the greater taper was done with a pencil sharpener (thanks Arthur).  With hindsight I should have made a greater taper on the other end. It would have made it easier to serve.
     

     

     
    Here is the loop that fits around the mast, served and with the mouse.

     

     
    The following photos show the fore and fore preventer stays loosely fitted around the mast. Things are obviously very crowded indeed and it is difficult to see just what is going on. It all looks like a bowl of demented spaghetti. Attaching the yards is going to be quite a job.
     
     

     

     
    Here are the stays looped around the mast and all the previous rigging (jeers, shrouds etc.).  Is this correct?
     

     

     
    I would have preferred to have the loops slightly larger, but the result is acceptable.

     
     
     
     
  22. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to _SalD_ in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale   
    The boom and gaff were assembled as per the drawings and as you can see I decided to paint them black.  Finding out the hard way, there is one boo-boo on the drawing.  The cleats shown mid-span on the gaff are in the wrong position.  They should be located on the sides of the gaff and not the top & bottom as shown on the drawing.  I also decided to put the foot ropes on the boom before it was installed on the ship.
     
     

     
    I went to rig the boom’s topping lifts and discovered I had missed two blocks under the main top when installing them in chapter 17.  They are the two blocks attached to the trestle trees.  Using a pin vise and lots of patience the holes were drilled below the top and the blocks installed.
     

     
    At the end of the boom topping lift paragraph it says, “Note the “leg” of .008 rigging that runs from the topping lift to the boom. It is shown on the rigging plans. This should be rigged as well.”   I don’t believe this is shown on the drawings or at least I couldn’t find it but I think it’s the line shown on page 122 in chapter 20.
     

     
    The staysail rigging was installed per the instructions and the only change I made was to seize some left over split rings to the end of the downhauls instead of making eyes.
     
     

     
    Now I need more rope coils, my least favorite thing to make.
     



  23. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to KenW in Rattlesnake by KenW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - American Privateer   
    My stern is complete with the decorative carvings, forward transom and fashion pieces.  I’m happy with the results.  I also added the aft windows, as per the Hahn plans.  The MS kit supplied die cast metal windows, but they were the same as the ones supplied with the Fair American kit.  I can't have the same windows on two models.  And, whenever there is a discrepancy between the kit and the Hahn plans, I go with the Hahn plans.  So now it’s on to the planking of the forecastle and quarter decks.
    The first photo was actually taken with the boat upside down.


    Two more with the boat right side up.
     
     
  24. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to Kevin in HMS VICTORY by Kevin - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1/72   
    well I actually feel i am getting somewhere with the build, although not checked i quess that I have spent more time on her this year so far than the whole of 2015
    the bow now seams to be looking tidier and so far i am happy with it, but with limited build space, it is a bit of a handful
    tomorrow i hope to lave the main stay and preventer stay
     
     










  25. Like
    GrantGoodale reacted to DocBlake in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style   
    Thanks, Guys!
     
    I decided to build the elm tree pumps out of boxwood.  A milled the wood to an octagon shape and cut the pumps to length.  The supports and spouts were glued on and the handles were installed. Last came the metal work.  I drilled out the tops of the pump body and painted the insides black to simulate  hollowed out logs.  Same with the spigots.
     
    I toyed with the idea of adding black reinforcing bands to the pump bodies, but maybe "less is more" and the pumps look cleaner without the bands.  What do you all think?

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