Ainars Apalais

Nice quoins. 

A few more more steps forward.   
Gangway and Rails
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

A few more more steps forward.   
Gangway and Rails
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

A few more more steps forward.   
Gangway and Rails
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

A few more more steps forward.   
Gangway and Rails
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

A few more more steps forward.   
Gangway and Rails
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Hi Justin
Welcome to the club:)
Looks nice start.

Hi Justin
Welcome to the club:)
Looks nice start.

Hi Justin
Welcome to the club:)
Looks nice start.

Finishes that were tested: (the bottle on the left side is a pure tung oil)

Results:

Unfortunately photos can't show all the nuances, I'm not a good photographer  
 
Don't want to make you bored with a full description of each test piece, just the main notes:
1) Be careful with your pure tung oil, it looks like mine started to solidify - the finished piece is full of small shiny glitter-like speckles, and the result is quite uneven. When I finished frames with the same tung oil - there was no such problem, but the oil was fresh.
It is also the darkest of all the finishes.

2) Sanding sealers were hard to apply - they become sticky really fast, and the #7 Rustins Shellac Sealer was so sticky that a lot of paper fibers just got glued right away. As a result, all shellac-based sealers were too blotchy and uneven. Maybe you really need to dilute them, but I did not want to play around with that - the number of possible recipes goes up to infinity, and it's too fiddly to do
The cellulose sealer was the least bad out of them all.
Look on all that hairy fibers that got stuck! Eeew.


3) The leftover glue looks more or less the same for all finishes except tung oil - it makes glue whiter and shinier.
4) Tung oil also makes treenails look a bit thicker, the rest of the finishes have the same effect on treenails.
 
 
As a result, I have two finalists - Danish Oil and Osmo Polyx (hard wax-oil mixture #3062). 
They look very similar, closest to the natural wood colour. Coincidentally they are also the easiest to apply and spot-fix!


Danish oil has a little bit more shine, while Osmo is the matt-est finish of them all. 
I was worried about wiping off Osmo (it is supposed to be sensitive to it, no thick layers should remain). Surprisingly, a thorough inspection with optivisor could not find any problems in tight areas, no build-up or any imperfections.
During the recent years I used it on a number of mini woodworking projects (boxes, pens, etc) and it holds well over time.
 
So, surprisingly, the winner is Osmo Polyx #3062! Danish oil is the second close.
Osmo is a relatively new finish, getting traction in fine woodworking, but I only found a few logs on MSW that mention it. It's not cheap, but a small can would last for a pretty long time. Based on these test results - I really encourage others to try and share what you think!

Hi,
 
the planksheer and timber heads are now done, working further on open rail. the images show it
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Regards
 
Alex

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments and likes.
 
The section of the 74 gun ship is thus completed.
Karl
 

 

 

 
 

 
 
 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello out there,
 
After many years it's time to re-start my builds on the Mercury Schooner and on the Bounty. I moved twice and first had to gather all my tools. After being ready today I realised a major issue on both Bounty and Mercury. Several years ago I treated the surface of the pear with several coatings of linseed oil but no final coating with a kind of lack. As you can see on the pic the beautiful golden brown shine of the surface is gone at it looks dull and a ted blotchy.
 
Is there any trick to preserve the wonderful shine of the wood after being treated with linseed oil? Al hints and advises are very welcome.
 
Best, Daniel

Building Jig.  
 
In the last few days I set about creating a building jig similar to other previous builders.  I had thought there might be an available cross section Jig plan in the Triton downloads section as there is one for the full POF Triton build, but came up short.   I experimented with trying to cut down a full size jig plan to create a cross section plan, but discovered there are a number of differences between the full build and the cross section, despite being both 1:48 scale sets of drawings.   In the end I created my drawing as Im sure others have done, and went to work.   
 
If anyone would like to use my drawing for their own work, I'll attach it here.   If printed at 100% on standard letter copy paper it should be accurate.   Be careful to check the lines against those of the provided drawings to be sure it is scaled and printed correctly.   
 
Triton Jig Plan_1-48_Justin P.pdf
 
Having never done this before, I did sort of invent my own process which may or may not be like how others have approached this.   I wound up using a 1/4" rough ply for the top and a 1/2" rough ply for bottom.   I bought a sheet of 2' x 2' of each and sanded an area marked out exactly to the dimensions of the printed drawing (8.5 x 11" copy paper).   I used a plain Elmers glue stick to apply the sheets.   In order to really prevent the paper deforming at this scale you really need to glue out the ply instead of the sheet - the reverse of what you might do when gluing assembly parts.   I had drawn guide lines on the ply to help with laying down the sheet of paper and help ensure that I have properly glued the entire area.  

Using my full-size table saw I then ripped down the two sheets of ply along the edge of the copy paper.   This gave me two sheets exactly 8.5 x 11" with a duplicate and well-aligned drawing mounted to each.    

I then drew in registration marks to each board edge marking the keel and the center frame.  This was important as there was a 1-2mm of difference in the alignment, so by using the registration marks I could clamp them together just right and drill the post holes so that when assembled all the lines would be true and aligned to one another top to bottom. I drilled those holes at exactly 3/8" and used 8" x 3/8" all-thread for the posts.   This provided a very secure fit, and along with the washers and nuts created a very rigid structure. 



I used a jig saw to cut out the meat of the top board interior and then a coping saw and files to finish the cut.   I then used a combination of squares and the provided drawings to make all the necessary checks.   
 

I had set this drawing up so the the distance between the top of the bottom board and top of the top board came out to exactly the distance between the floor of the keel and the upper Deck Beam Clamp mark.   Incidentally, this turns out to be roughly the same as the indicated height for the full POF jig plan.   


After that I positioned the keel in a jig mounted to the bottom board.  The jig itself is complete and ready for frames. 

As for frames, Im still working out all the steps of my process.   Trial and error, but Im close.   My drill press/drum sander setup is finally put together and is working well.   I had intended on using a 2" diameter drum but had trouble getting it to center properly causing it to wobble intolerabely.  The 1" drum works perfectly though.   Ive gotten all the components of my first "test" frame cut out and ready for a final fitting at the joints.   This step is hand work, so will proceed much more slowly to get it right.   Hard to know what the tolerances are and how falling on either side of those tolerances will effect the end result...  
 

Right: Fresh off band saw, ready for sanding.  Left: After sanding on the drum.  
 

Two halves of a single frame ready for final assembly.
 

I can only agree with Alex  "True Masterpiece"

Thank you very much! It doesn't always look this way! I got the hog chains installed. Starting work on the smoke stacks and insignia .

I finished the mast and boom but I think I'll wait to install them permanently until I've got the stacks in place. I went ahead and installed the braces for the wheel house.

Hello, 
here is the continuation of making the block strops for the guide blocks of the foremast top.
 

Uchwyty do falkonetów nie dały się równo poczernić, za dużo było plam, cyna inaczej się czerni mosiądz inaczej dla tego pomalowałem czarnym matowym akrylem.
Bardzo kolegą dziękuję. Pozdrawiam.
 
 

pump
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Continuation. 
 

 
 

 
Pawel 

Dziękuję Rafał, dziękuję za polubienie. Kotwica. Spławiki olchowe, ja też użyłem ołowiu, który łatwo układał się na boi. Ołów jest czerniony i lakierowany, aby zapobiec utlenianiu. Pozdrawiam Piotrek.
 
 

Good morning.

Ad infinitum or ad nauseam, HH? 
 
Example of capsquare attached to a 12lb carronade carriage. Admittedly  it is at 1:48 scale, but on a carriage that size they are pretty small!