Ainars Apalais

As I said in the last post I'm almost done. The anchor and buoys have been
placed and the flag has been tied to the flag halliard. 
 

 

 
There are four entry way stanchions that need to be turned. Trying to make
them uniform should make for a few extra attempts! LOL

I can only agree with Alex  "True Masterpiece"

Hi all.
I decided make quick update about my cross section last time this year.
I done rigging for gun carriages. Looks good for me.
But next model i definitely will be made without any rigging:)
 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 
Thanks to anyone.
And HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
 

Thanks Chad
 
The idea about initial block was taken from "tkay11" Triton cross section build. Thanks  to him for that.
I just do it a little changes. I make it a little longer and with 3 carriages  in one time.
 
The principle is quite simply.
I pre cut  all parts by sizes and  right mitre. 
After glue them together. Only I use glue on ends of parts/Red line/
 

 
When all milling,sawing and preparing works was done 
I simply cut off glued parts/Green line/.
 
In my opinion it worked quite well. Only I'm not sure if I'd do the same if I had to make for example 20 Carriges
In any case hope information given to me  helps to You.
 
Regards        Ainars.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

HI There 
Finally finished my work on gun carriages.
Here will be a couple of photos from the whole process.
 





 
And final product
 

 

Hi all.
I decided make quick update about my cross section last time this year.
I done rigging for gun carriages. Looks good for me.
But next model i definitely will be made without any rigging:)
 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 
Thanks to anyone.
And HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
 

I can only agree with Alex  "True Masterpiece"

Hi all.
I decided make quick update about my cross section last time this year.
I done rigging for gun carriages. Looks good for me.
But next model i definitely will be made without any rigging:)
 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 
Thanks to anyone.
And HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
 

Hi all.
I decided make quick update about my cross section last time this year.
I done rigging for gun carriages. Looks good for me.
But next model i definitely will be made without any rigging:)
 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 
Thanks to anyone.
And HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
 

Hi all.
I decided make quick update about my cross section last time this year.
I done rigging for gun carriages. Looks good for me.
But next model i definitely will be made without any rigging:)
 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 
Thanks to anyone.
And HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
 

Hi all.
I decided make quick update about my cross section last time this year.
I done rigging for gun carriages. Looks good for me.
But next model i definitely will be made without any rigging:)
 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 
Thanks to anyone.
And HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
 

Hatchways.
 

Thanks Chad
 
The idea about initial block was taken from "tkay11" Triton cross section build. Thanks  to him for that.
I just do it a little changes. I make it a little longer and with 3 carriages  in one time.
 
The principle is quite simply.
I pre cut  all parts by sizes and  right mitre. 
After glue them together. Only I use glue on ends of parts/Red line/
 

 
When all milling,sawing and preparing works was done 
I simply cut off glued parts/Green line/.
 
In my opinion it worked quite well. Only I'm not sure if I'd do the same if I had to make for example 20 Carriges
In any case hope information given to me  helps to You.
 
Regards        Ainars.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Chad
 
The idea about initial block was taken from "tkay11" Triton cross section build. Thanks  to him for that.
I just do it a little changes. I make it a little longer and with 3 carriages  in one time.
 
The principle is quite simply.
I pre cut  all parts by sizes and  right mitre. 
After glue them together. Only I use glue on ends of parts/Red line/
 

 
When all milling,sawing and preparing works was done 
I simply cut off glued parts/Green line/.
 
In my opinion it worked quite well. Only I'm not sure if I'd do the same if I had to make for example 20 Carriges
In any case hope information given to me  helps to You.
 
Regards        Ainars.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Chad
 
The idea about initial block was taken from "tkay11" Triton cross section build. Thanks  to him for that.
I just do it a little changes. I make it a little longer and with 3 carriages  in one time.
 
The principle is quite simply.
I pre cut  all parts by sizes and  right mitre. 
After glue them together. Only I use glue on ends of parts/Red line/
 

 
When all milling,sawing and preparing works was done 
I simply cut off glued parts/Green line/.
 
In my opinion it worked quite well. Only I'm not sure if I'd do the same if I had to make for example 20 Carriges
In any case hope information given to me  helps to You.
 
Regards        Ainars.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Nice mod, Ainars! Glad you found the idea useful and worked on it a bit.
 
Tony

Thanks Chad
 
The idea about initial block was taken from "tkay11" Triton cross section build. Thanks  to him for that.
I just do it a little changes. I make it a little longer and with 3 carriages  in one time.
 
The principle is quite simply.
I pre cut  all parts by sizes and  right mitre. 
After glue them together. Only I use glue on ends of parts/Red line/
 

 
When all milling,sawing and preparing works was done 
I simply cut off glued parts/Green line/.
 
In my opinion it worked quite well. Only I'm not sure if I'd do the same if I had to make for example 20 Carriges
In any case hope information given to me  helps to You.
 
Regards        Ainars.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I've continued to work on the ships railings and am starting to make her bell.

Completing the Deck
 

Decking Cheerful seems like three different projects, planking the center around the deck furniture, the first belt of six curved planks, and the final belt of hooked scarphs.  It took me a while to sort out how to do this third step and interesting design features of Cheerful’s deck, at least for me it wasn’t readily obvious how to create them, or at least create ones that fit.  So I thought for those interested, and with my never ending quest to provide way too much detail, I thought I’d share how I did it. I again acknowledge there are likely better and more than one way (write your own log:-) this is just how did them.
 

I did some measurements and determined that starting with 5/16 planks (the widest of my selection of cedar) would be wide enough to include the scarphs. I could have also used 3 inch wide sheet wood, and maybe I should have, but the 5/16 was my choice so I ripped some planks and off I went.
 

Back from the “hook” itself the plank obviously has to be 3/16 to match the rest of the deck so I slide a 3/16 plank until it met the margin plank and marked that line. I decided after some experimentation I wanted a 3mm fit “into the hook” on the bow and 2mm on the stern. I selected the smaller size on the stern because the hook portion would be too large for my taste due the more narrow overall angle, so the fit was largely dictated by my choice of size of the resulting hook (or hood as I’ve seen some call it). So I made a little jigs, one 3mm and one 2mm. I slide that under the 3/16 plank and drew a line the would become the size and shape of the hook to check the look and also put a light mark at that spot on the margin plank as shown in the photo.
 

Next to get the required angle on the front edge I fit and cut some Tamiya tape. You can see my earlier marks below the tape.
 

Then I transferred the tape to my 5/16 plank and made the cut.
 

I slid the full plank into its future home and transferred the pencil mark I’d made on the margin plank to the 5/16 plank, and the first step is done. That mark defines the hook forward and the 3/16 plank behind. The cut of the angle has to be larger than the mark, otherwise it won't be a hook, this can be adjusted by the width of the fit into the hook, part of the measurement process that led me to the 3mm and 2mm jigs. 
 

Next I used a 3/16 plank to mark its width onto the 5/16 plank, holding it firm with my heavy ruler and handy square, but double checked it with another ruler. As it turns out I needed to remove 3mm (so fun jumping back and forth from imperial to metric).
 

My scarph is marked and ready to cut. The total length of each scarph is determined by the butt joint plan I noted in my last post, the total length of course varied for each of the twelve (6 per side) I made.
 

Since I can’t take a photo and wield a #11 blade at the same time here is the result. I used my little 220 and 320 grit sanding blocks and files to finish it up. I also slightly beveled the back side on all four sides. This is an important step I believe. I want the top edge dictating the fit not any minor differences on the sides or bottom edge.
 

And what do you know, it fits. It's ok if its short of the mark a bit (resulted from squaring it up and matching it to the starboard size in this case) it just can't be longer than the mark on the margin plank. I also had to remember not to forget the pencil mark on the edge closes to the side to simulate caulking.
 

To complete the row I do the same process on the stern then determine the length of a 3/16 plank to fit between them. I cut that plank a little long then use my Byrnes Sander extremely gently and slowly form the edge until I have the right length (it’s actually spinning in this photo, close as I’ll get to live action shots).
 

Then it’s back to the bending station to get the required curve for a tight fit. I’ve said it multiple times and will say it once more (for the last time in this log as I don’t think there is anything left to bend): Chuck's technique of using dry heat in the form of a travel iron (so much quieter and quicker than a hair dryer) is the way to bend wood in my humble opinion. The only water I use is dipping my finger into the little pitcher shown in the photo and lightly wetting the wood.  I can (and have) unbend the same plank if I bend it too much. I have a couple of templates depending on what curve I need and always put a scrap piece between the plank and clamp to keep it from marking or crimping the plank. This process just works for me.
 

Here’s the completed row, the three pieces now glued to the deck. I don’t think I got the curve exactly right on the first belt. Oh well, it’s the curve I have.
 
I hope this step by step detail helps someone someday, it was a certainly process of discovery for me. Yet again a thing I’d never done before, thank you @Chuck and Cheerful.
 

Here’s the nearly completed deck. I’m not done, I’ll lightly sand the first coat of WOP and apply a second plus there are a few blemishes I’ll attend to before moving on. I personally think Chuck’s design and instructions make for a pretty interesting deck. There’s a lot more going on than my usual straight bow to stern planking.
 

So many joints and angles here at the stern. I think it’s pretty cool how it all fits together, making each plank was a process in and of itself.
 

A look at the bow and it’s interlocking pieces. The planks aren’t discolored in front of the hatches, that’s the shadow they’re casting from the poor orientation of my workshop light above and behind.
 

Finally another above look. My only minor disappointment is the amount of variation in the cedar color. The WOP did even it out a lot but there is more variation than on the hull. The 5/16 is darker and as it was used only on the outside stands out, plus there is a much paler plank running either side of center. I like that it’s not all the same, it makes it come alive, I just kinda wish there was just a little less variation. I’m sure that will all fade together as the rest of the deck and cannon are added. Again there are shadows from lighting, I first thought what are those squares, then realized its window light coming through the gun ports on the far side plus the work light coming from behind.
 
My grumbling aside, I’m happy with the finally completed hull. As Chuck noted in the monograph, with the deck complete all the big messy stuff is done. Now I begin to add the details, sub-assemblies and mini-kits to make it a ship.
 
I started April 30th, so it’s been eight months to reach this point. What a fun ride its been.

The rudder is in place.

I needed a model to prepare the lighting, so I took the boats

Continuation 
 

 

 
Pawel

Hi all, a lot of dust here...
 
after long absence a small update from me. I have managet to work on Sphynx furter, if only slow... in the time I have done the steps and prepared planksheer for F. Castel und Q. Deck. the images explains better that words...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Alex