Chuck

That really looks great. Well done. If you havent built many headrails those certainly look like you made them look easy. Chuck

A couple of weeks for chapter 3 parts maybe and they will be about $80 give or take. But remember you will need to buy the wood package from Joe or mill your own planking strips. Chapter 3 is basically planking. chuck

As I get ready to laser cut chapter 3 parts I figured I would release the 3 plan sheets that will come with it. These are the last three sheets to complete the hull. There will be more plan sheets for the rigging but this completes the plans for the hull work for folks that dont plan on rigging her. speedwellsheet3.pdf speedwellsheet4.pdf speedwellsheet5.pdf Chuck

Yes ….I always add a bit extra.

You are welcome…any time.

Making the breech ropes. There are many ways to do this. I have simplified it. Here is a step by step. I am using my poly rope so CA glue was used. Start with a breech rope slightly longer than you will need (.055 tan). Have four eyebolts with rings at the ready. Also have whatever line you intend to use for seizing ready. In my case some Guttermann mara 120 thread that matched my rope color. Note that I have made a loose granny knot on this. Or one simple overhand knot but left open and ready to go!!! Place one ringbolt on the rope and simply bend it over to form a loop. Leave the tail a bit longish. I just squeeze the loose loop as shown below with my fingers. No helping hands needed. Then I slip the seizing "open knot" onto the end. Easy peasy. Then cinch it tight.... This is what it looks like. And yes the seizing needs to be pushed closer to the end of the breech and ringbolt. No glue as of yet. Use a tweezers that you are comfy using for this stuff. Slide the seizing which is still just a loose overhand knot closer to the end. It may open a bit. Thats OK. Just tighten it again when the seizing is where you want it. At this stage I place the tiniest bit of CA glue (any glue will work here) on the knot after tightening it. Then I use my fingers to brush away any excess so it doesnt make the rope stained or discolored. Yes you get CA on your fingers. But the rope stays perfectly clean. I see folks moaning that CA darkens and stains the rope. This is nonsense if you wipe most of it away before it dries and you dont use too much to begin with. No discoloration....super simple method and no helping hands or wacky jigs yet. It may be hard to see in the photo below. But I take one loose end of the seizing and pinch it between my fingers and away from the seizing. I am basically pinching the ringbolt and top of the looped breech line. See the other loose end hanging off the far side? Take that loose end and simply wrap it around the breech two or three times. I have seen folks wrap like 25 times and make a long seizing., This never lays correctly and will look sloppy. I keep my seizings always very short with at maximum only 3 wraps around. Then I add a drop of CA to the top of the wrapped seizings. Just a small drop. No knotting needed. I pinch and brush the excess CA away with my fingers to keep it clean without darkening at all. It will only stain if you douse it with way too much CA. What a mess that makes and changes the texture of the rope. Your fingers get sticky and pull the fibers of the rope etc. I just dip a toothpick into some CA on a scrap piece of wood and barely touch the seizing. Then using a tiny scissors which I have maybe 5 of.....these are spring loaded micro scissors that are very sharp. I cut the loose ends of the seizing very close to the breech rope. You dont want to see any sticking out after cutting. Sometimes a mall amount of CA on that end and using a tweezers to fold it into the breach rope will solve this issue. I hate when the cut loose ends stick out. Cut both loose ends. Its nice and neat and no discoloration or staining. Rope is clean and crisp as it should be. Note the long "loose" end of the breech rope. Time to trim that with a sharp blade. Trim it close and at an angle. To keep the end of the cut rope from fraying I sometimes put some CA on the op where I am going to cut it. Then immediately wipe it away with my fingers again to keep it clean before it dries. The cut end....note the angle of the cut and the clean rope with no fraying or staining. Then slide two ringbolts on the breech rope which will be inserted on the gun carriages later. Take the last one and repeat the process to seize the other end just like we described. Only now you should slide the cinched seizing and adjust the length so the overall breech rope is the correct length. Then just finish it as you did the other side. Then I make a simulated fake splice in the center to place on the cannon or Carronade. I make sure one of those ring bolts are on each side of the center first. It is very important. Then I use my plan for the breech line to find the center. I use a sharp awl to then pierce the center of the breech rope. I always use 4 strand breech rope so I can pierce it with two strands on each side. Then I use some CA to stiffen the splice and keep its shape. I pinch and brush away the excess before it dries....right away. It will hold its shape. No shiny spots or staining or discoloration. Finished breech rope.

Start with a breech rope slightly longer than you will need. Have four eyebolts with rings at the ready. Also have whatever line you intend to use for seizing ready. In my case some mara 120 thread that matched my rope color. Note that I have made a loose granny knot on this. Or one simple overhand knot but left open and ready to go!!! Place one ringbolt on the rope and simply bend it over to form a loop. Leave the tail a bit longish. I just squeeze the loose loop as shown below with my fingers. No helping hands needed. Then I slip the seizing "open knot" onto the end. Easy peasy. Then cinch it tight.... This is what it looks like. And yes the seizing needs to be pushed closer to the end of the breech and ringbolt. No glue as of yet. Use a tweezers that you are comfy using for this stuff. Slide the seizing which is still just a loose overhand knot closer to the end. It may open a bit. Thats OK. Just tighten it again when the seizing is where you want it. At this stage I place the tiniest bit of CA glue (any glue will work here) on the knot after tightening it. Then I use my fingers to brush away any excess so it doesnt make the rope stained or discolored. Yes you get CA on your fingers. But the rope stays perfectly clean. I see folks moaning that CA darkens and stains the rope. This is nonsense if you wipe most of it away before it dries and you dont use too much to begin with. No discoloration....super simple method and no helping hands or wacky jigs yet. It may be hard to see in the photo below. But I take one loose end of the seizing and pinch it between my fingers and away from the seizing. I am basically pinching the ringbolt and top of the looped breech line. See the other loose end hanging off the far side? Take that loose end and simply wrap it around the breech two or three times. I have seen folks wrap like 25 times and make a long seizing., This never lays correctly and will look sloppy. I keep my seizings always very short with at maximum only 3 wraps around. Then I add a drop of CA to the top of the wrapped seizings. Just a small drop. No knotting needed. I pinch and brush the excess CA away with my fingers to keep it clean without darkening at all. It will only stain if you douse it with way too much CA. What a mess that makes and changes the texture of the rope. Your fingers get sticky and pull the fibers of the rope etc. I just dip a toothpick into some CA on a scrap piece of wood and barely touch the seizing. Then using a tiny scissors which I have maybe 5 of.....these are spring loaded micro scissors that are very sharp. I cut the loose ends of the seizing very close to the breech rope. You dont want to see any sticking out after cutting. Sometimes a mall amount of CA on that end and using a tweezers to fold it into the breech rope will solve this issue. I hate when the cut loose ends stick out. Cut both loose ends. Its nice and neat and no discoloration or staining. Rope is clean and crisp as it should be. Note the long "loose" end of the breech rope. Time to trim that with a sharp blade. Trim it close and at an angle. To keep the end of the cut rope from fraying I sometimes put some CA on the op where I am going to cut it. Then immediately wipe it away with my fingers again to keep it clean before it dries. The cut end....note the angle of the cut and the clean rope with no fraying or staining. Then slide two ringbolts on the breech rope which will be inserted on the gun carriages later. Take the last one and repeat the process to seize the other end just like we described. Only now you should slide the cinched seizing and adjust the length so the overall breech rope is the correct length. Then just finish it as you did the other side. Then I make a simulated fake splice in the center to place on the cannon or Carronade. I make sure one of those ring bolts are on each side of the center first. It is very important. Then I use my plan for the breech line to find the center. I use a sharp awl to then pierce the center of the breech rope. I always use 4 strand breech rope so I can pierce it with two strands on each side. Then I use some CA to stiffen the splice and keep its shape. I pinch and brush away the excess before it dries....right away. It will hold its shape. No shiny spots or staining or dicoloration. Finished breech rope.

I have a crazy busy next two days. But if I can manage to squeeze it in I will try and take some photos of the simplified method I use. You dont need anything to hold the breech line except your fingers if this method suits you. There are so many ways to do it and everyone has theirs thats suits them. But I will share mine. It wont make sense without photos so its not something I can just describe.

Its looking very good...nicely done indeed.

Ron...the blocks are actually completely Matte in appearance when they come off the printer. I use a very expensive matte dental resin for my blocks. That very slight satin sheen is a result of each batch being polished and finished before packaging. I prefer a slight satin finish to my blocks and models vs. a completely flat matte finish. An easier and less tedious way if you do prefer a matte finish would be to just place them on a paper towel and spray them with some dull coat or matte fixative from about 18 inches away. But I will continue to polish them for initial sale. Its just part of the process.

Darker 3D printed "Swiss Pear" Deadeyes are now coming online and in stock. Trying to print one or two sizes every day. Pictured below are 3mm deadeyes. Really tiny but they look great. I am also now fully stocked with "Swiss Pear single, double and triple rigging blocks. AND YES....they are just $5 a pack. Many sizes are even cheaper. For example....2mm single, double and triple blocks are just $3.99 for a package of 25. This is not a fire sale price. This will be the normal every day pricing for these. Give em a try.

nicely done

It looks good but its impossible to tell in photos if any minor issues would cause you grief. It looks good…keep going and if they arise we can deal with them. But remember to have fun along the way.

Yes you can add those filler blocks now or wait until after you add the stern frames. Its up to you.

Not that I have tried yet...and I have tried many. The extra strong stuff is not rigid. It bends too much and is way too flexible. It doesnt break but not what we need. I am sure there may be stuff out there but I just havent found it yet. Since I have so much to 3D print already those are on the backburner for the future after everything else gets done.

Looks very good but yes a resin printer would be so much better.

Really nice progress.

Lovely model. ....and a wonderful display.

Its just a tiny length of black fishing line. 20 lb

Still around....and trying to work on Speedwell while making blocks and rope inventory. I am going to rig the last cannon on the starboard side...if it kills me. Then on to the port side. I replaced the barrels with the 3D printed versions and thus they needed re-rigging again. But I am back on track...more to come soon. .055 tan breech line and 5/32" single blocks. I am going with the boxwood color 3D printed blocks on this model. Chuck

Tried them already and they look beautiful.... But they just arent strong enough in 1/4" scale and below. I may use them on Speedwell however.

Amost done with that….its not my favorite thing either….then its on to more fun bits. Lovely work also.

Lookin great. The deadeyes and steps will blend in perfectly. The channels look great on the model also. Good luck with the headrails. Take your time there.

Its a possibility

I am bot 100% sure but I think its the same stuff that I use and just rebranded as “warm satin”. I am using the same now as I can no linger find just satin and I cant tell the difference at all. Its exactly the same stuff in my opinion.