Chuck
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Everything posted by Chuck
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Thats great news....Congrats and well deserved.- 261 replies
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- Medway Longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Rope making attempts - Feedback requested
Chuck replied to Moonbug's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
That rope looks pretty excellent to my eye. I am so happy that so many folks are starting to make their own rope. You will never buy a package of rope again. the lay is nice and tight on your rope. Looks like any rope that I would have made. It will look great on a model. -
Next up will be the channels and fenders and deadeyes etc. We are back to the outboard details.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Managed to complete four of the qdeck six pounders. Four more to go. I will probably get that done this coming week so I can get started on chapter 11. These guns and their carriages are built just like the ones for the gun deck. The split rings were made using a 45 drill bit this time. You can also see the eyebolts and such on the inboard side of the qdeck rail. All made with 24 gauge black wire once again. If you are going to rig these I would use .045 tan for the breech line and .018 for the tackles. I would also use 1/8" single blocks for the tackles. I managed to knock loose one of the mizzen bitts while drilling the holes for the eyebolts on the rail. I keep forgetting to fix that. You can see that it is slightly askew in the photos. Its tricky getting in there to drill the holes...so be careful of your sleeves!! Try also not to drill all the way through the rail. Only go enough to insert the short ends of the eye bolts. The 1 9/16" resin cannon and carriages are also now available. You will need two packages of each.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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The ones on the Winnie for example are just slightly narrowed above the bottom end.
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They look pretty good. If you are worrying about the neatness of the round circular end, then dont add that detail. Just round off the bottom corners. That is perfectly acceptable and a common way they were done. There are plenty of contemporary model examples of this.
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Here is a good image of how the kevel will look but this is the Amazon...
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Looks great!
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You read that wrong.....That goes on the inboard side of the platform we have yet to construct..... Look at the overhead plan of the decks which show the platforms that lead to the gangways.
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looking good.....Those kevels you added along the bulwarks close to the qdeck will be a problem. They will certainly get in the way of the gangways and platforms. I would remove them if I were you.
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Looks really good. Yes i deed there were a lot of parts for those pumps. A tricky area for sure and yours looks great.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Nicely done…thats a tricky part of the project. You did real nice work of it.
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Wonderful work. I can really see in your model that you are thoroughly enjoying this project. Well done!
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Very nice…a wonderful milestone to reach. Keep at it and I look forward to more progress.
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That looks fantastic Mike...cant wait to see it in person.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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It doesnt really matter. I like three bands because its easier to treat each smaller band as a stand alone project to complete. But its up to you really. Chuck
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Those bands as lined off are incorrect. You have way too much upward sweep at the bow on those belts. Something more akin to this would make life a lot easier.
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I just saw your build log and since you faired the bow inboard and out prior to planking, you will certainly have to be very careful. As you plank up there you will now be in danger of distorting the shape at the bow because the bulkhead frames are so thin. You will end up with the incorrect shape. This is why I write that you should wait until after planking is finished and the frames are thicker and stronger so they wont flex and distort. At the bow you can remove some of the material to cleabn it up as I did. You can do a general clean up inboard and start to even it out but I wouldnt reduce it to the final thickness yet. Just try not to deviate from the instructions moving forward. Most that do end up with some serious problems to fix later on. Chuck
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Its different widths at different times. Those quotes you posted are from different chapters. You are reading too far ahead and the widths change depending on what inboard/outboard planking is added. Just follow the instructions in a linear format. when you first start on the q deck you add the narrower strip. No planking yet. Then after planking its wider….the outboard planking being 3/64” thick. Hence the now wider strip added to the cap. Its different for each stage of construction which you are mixing up. Inboard fairing isnt done until after the outboard planking is finished. This is for a reason. The outboard planking makes the area stronger so you wont break the framing. It would be sanded too thin otherwise and be structurally weak. You should NOT be fairing inboard to the final thickness before planking. So just stick with that timeline and you will be fine. Otherwise you will certainly run into serious issues later.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Yes they are. All very important. I am not sure what your question is.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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That looks pretty darned good. Well done. Glad to see an update.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Nicely done...
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Chapter 10 materials list Materials List for Winnie Ten.pdf
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Probably.....I am hoping to start making them next week.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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