Chuck
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Everything posted by Chuck
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Hows progress coming along. -
It depends on the wood. A harder wood like boxwood I just paint directly on the surface after sanding it very very smooth. Softer wood like cedar, is sanded as well but then I apply a coat of sanding sealer. I also still sand between many coats of thinned paint. I sand the paint and if I get to bare wood I have gone too far. I use 600 grit or even finer grit at that stage.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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12 for sure.....but if one of them gets too long I may stretch it to lucky number 13. And then after that a sep. mini kit for the 30 ft barge and its display on the model.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Thank You....A few fairleads along the inboard bulwarks are next up along with eyebolts and metal work. Lastly the 8 guns on the qdeck will be added to complete chapter 10.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I would do exactly what Ryland suggests. Just add another strip along the sheer. Just cut a thin strip and run it along the entire edge of the top strake. Then sand it down to match the correct sheer as best you can. Its looking lovely by the way. Nicely planked.
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- Medway Longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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If you remember, I used the provided laser cut template to mark the height of the stern frames. Then I cut them down most of the way with sharp chisels and a #11 blade. I followed that up with sanding them down to their final height. The first part of the cap added was the laser cut center section. It is 1/16" thick. This piece has a gentle curve to it when viewed from above to follow the curve of the transom. This piece was centered and glued in position. I also cleaned up both ends to make them neat and tidy to accept the pieces we will glue into position next. You can see the center section glued into place below. In addition the first outer section is glued on as well. Note how it is much wider than the center length. This will allow you to draw and MATCH the curve of the transom when viewed from above. I am not really stressing the sanding of char here because that will be taken care of once you reduce those outer pieces. You will be reducing them to the same width while maintaining the same graceful curve. Once you finish both sides, you can sand it all with a fine grit sandpaper to prep for painting. Then paint the whole thing black. Sanding made a lot of dust so remember to clean that all away before you start painting. You want the best quality painted surface as possible. Here are some pictures after the cap was completed and painted. This really ties everything together well.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I am cutting more chapter 9 parts right now. Just wanted to let you guys know. I am cutting cherry version right now. I have also decided to use some yellow cedar sheets for the cherry chapter. Mainly for the rails and cap rail which will be painted black anyway. It doesnt matter with the color or wood type. If you absolutely want cherry for all parts then send me a PM but I think you will appreciate the flexibility of the cedar for the forecastle caprail and fancy rail. These are just the 3/64" thick parts.....All other parts will be cherry. I have already made about 36 chapter 9 sets in yellow cedar but they all sold out and once I make some cherry versions first, I will make more yellow cedar chapter sets right after. They should be ready next week at some point. Even though folks are months and maybe more than a year away from needing this chapter, it sells out right away anyway. So please watch the store this week if you are getting close to needing this chapter. Some folks just really want it sitting on the shelf in their shop rather than wait to buy it when they need it. So keep in eye out if you will be needing it soon.
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Good work....no need to rush and proceeding carefully will pay off in multiples later on.
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I think it looks fantastic. You should continue with it as is. Take what you have learned and move on to another subject to prevent yourself from losing interest. Possibly Spedwell? But your model really does look lovely. So little of the lower deck will be seen. Be sure to simulate a light seam on the fcastle and qdeck planking. It will look just fantastic.
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I have no ide really but my guess would be 1:48 just like the model.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Very nice. Those are so hard to make by hand like that.
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Absolutely beautiful…you did such an excellent job on the Cheerful. I hope you enjoyed the project.
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Just a another point here with the transom rail. On the contemporary model the qdeck top rail is oddly higher them the transom rail. You can always do this but the original drafts dont reflect this detail. Here is an oddly presented photo of that detail on the cont model. It just doesnt look right to my eye and so I will attempt to make the transom rail flush with the top rail of the qdeck. In addition.....this photo shows a beaded edge to the top rail of the transom. This will be added to our model as well. More photos to come.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Laser cut template for marking the height of the stern frames. Now I must admit an error in judgement. Not that this will be terribly difficult for me do,but this would have probably been easier to do before the qdeck rails were added. So just a suggestion….and I will make the monograph chapter reflect this. The stern frames are best cut down before you start on the qdeck railings port and starboard. I have already cut down the stern frames using a sharp #11 blade. Slicing a little at a time. Then sanding down to my pencil lines made using this template. Note how the transom rail will be the same height as the qdeck fancy rail where the two meet. Hence the difficulty in surgically cutting away those outer stern frames. I am happy to report however, that it all came out splendidly. Photos of that shortly. so remember….This step first!!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Beautiful work as usual. Love those small details. And it doesnt matter really how often you might see it on primary sources. I have seen many examples where fine unusual details are shown on a particular contemporary model and nowhere else which makes it absolutely worthy of inclusion. We may never the why? or how often? but its a wonderful detail. Well done.
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I am glad the surgery went well. Welcome back.... Check here for all helpful downloads.
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Absolutely beautiful progress.
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Yes they are not shown on the draft or the cont model but I think they would have been there. The standards are usually not shown on original drafts. At least most that I have seen. So this will be an optional detail but one I will be adding to my model for sure. Chuck
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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If you have some brass tubing or even some styrene tubing that would work better for you. Those aren't that fragile at all. I have no idea how you are breaking them like that. But a replacement will be the same. I recommend you use any kind of tubing you can find close to that diameter instead.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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For what? The lids on the top of the stove. I am not sure what you mean by vents. There are no vents. They are just held in place by little tabs. To be cut with a sharp blade….not just punched out. Unless the laser didnt cut all the way through. Take a picture. Post it. if you need a new sheet i can send one no problem but I am not very sure which sheet or part you are referring. I etched the outline on the top of the stove for the lids but thats just for placement purposes. You shouldnt remove those …and on a sep sheet there are small matching circles for the lids that go in those spots. Its all spelled out step by step in the pdf.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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