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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. Its a slow process. Just keep your templates on hand as you assemble the stern frames and fillers. You could in fact just assemble two frames at a time and then the fillers....working your way out to the sides from the center. That may be easier for you.
  2. What you are doing seems like it would be great if the transom was flat. But it isnt. So I am not to optimistic. I am not at all sure how you will fit that onto the model properly and establish the proper curves. But we shall see...
  3. How the hell do you ship an 800 volume book collection. It would cost a fortune. Yes indeed it sounds a bit sketchy. Doesnt make sense. unless someone lives within driving distance this is just not a very good idea. Especially sight unseen. Take some pictures maybe. I have this bridge….not that one…its a smaller bridge. But its for sale and only in its entirety. Buyer must make arrangements for delivery.
  4. Dont forget to go to the downloads forum to get the pdf plans and templates for the bulkheads. In addition the monograph chapters and other discussions can be found here. https://modelshipworld.com/forum/93-general-project-discussions-on-planking-fittings-and-monograph-chapters/
  5. Beautiful...you will never go back to planking any other way. The proof is in the pudding!!! Well done and she looks great. Onto chapter three, LOL. But lets see some pictures of her right side up!!!
  6. That is great news. The Unicorn looks like a wonderful model. That shiuld be a fine display.
  7. Enter your Album first. Then you will see a button to add images to it. But you must enter your empty album first.
  8. The sides should be beveled because the stern is curved when viewing it from above. Therefore the fillers are a bit wide until you sand and bevel the sides so they are angled correctly. It is explained in the monograph chapter.
  9. Nicely done....Looking forward to seeing you at the Admiralty workshop Ben. You should bring the model. I would love to see it in person. Chuck
  10. Its just any scrap wood. Its not laser cut....Use the 1/4 x 3/16 strips. They are just glued to the underside of the stern frames and faired. Yu can also use a balsa block....anything really.
  11. Just a heads up folks, I will be reopening the store tomorrow. There will be a limited supply of chapter 11 parts in cedar available. Once again I ask all of you to refrain from buying it unless you are close to needing it. I know I have asked before but that hasnt stopped folks. Its a shame really. I have limited capacity as I am still recovering from Covid. I really want to make sure that folks who are waiting on these parts get first pick from this batch. I hate to do it but if past chapter releases are any indication, I may have to cancel all orders that I know the builder is years away from needing this chapter. Its just not fair to the folks who are really in need right at this moment. Thank you so much for understanding. Chuck
  12. There is no hiding…tonight after some lobster rolls we will all get together for the annual “drunken Bob Ross” night!! A Traditional family fun get together of any vacation. All of you should try it. Chuck
  13. Very nice…your model will look dramatically different when the friezes are added. Its a real milestone moment of the project.
  14. The family tires me out. I cant sit at the beach doing nothing for hours. So today i stayed behind to relax on the deck looking out over the ocean. While writing of course. Yesterday I walked 8 miles on a cliff walk along the mansions of Newport. Im tired. Plus I have to do the grilling for when they get back from baking on the beach for hours. Not fun for me. Relaxing on deck while sipping a pint is much more relaxing. Those are a portion of my kids and their pack well ahead of me yesterday with even more of them really far ahead out of camera range.
  15. Just away on vacation...will be back on Monday and reopen for business.
  16. Its a gradual taper to 3/32" thick along the top of the transom. This is so the cap for the transom is not huge and too wide which is what you see on many models and kits. The transom with at the cap should be narrow and elegant. Not wide and chunky....same is true of the cap shear along the sides of the hull.
  17. Your care and attention at the stern will pay off in dividends later. You will be rewarded for getting it right.
  18. I have completed the prototype for the cathead support knee. This knee is directly under the cathead and is quite complex. It twists and turns while tapering thinner as it gracefully extends down and connects with the lower rail. The frieze follows the same look and feel as the contemporary model. This piece is kind of assembled like you guys did for the cheeks and hair brackets...if you are wondering. This will be built in two lengths. Each length is of course made up of many pieces. I will detail the assembly process soon when I make it for the other side. There will be templates laser cut to help you and assist in the shaping and positioning. Once the other side is finished I will make the fourth "half" head timber that is positioned between this and the main rail. Here are a couple of pics of the cathead support knee on the port side. I am happy with the results considering that the pieces were all laser cut. I have made these from scratch before and these seemed to come out just as good. Its the first time I tried out this concept and laser cut approach. I believe you can now start to see how the finished headwork will look. Hopefully you will agree that it doesnt look like any kit you have ever seen before.
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