Chuck

The breastrail.... Its pretty straight forward. All parts are laser cut for you. But you will still need to prepare them and shape them. You must do so in the same way you did for the various laser cut columns during this project. Sand off all the laser char carefully if you dont plan on painting the uprights. I left them natural which meant they had to be pretty clean. Use some files, sandpaper and small chisels...or even a #11 blade in my case. Duplicate the overall shape on the fore and aft sides which was laser cut for you. Remember to get these clean, although you can paint them black if you wanted to. I have basically just laser cut and etched the general shape of these uprights and its up to you to finish them with care. Take you time as the breastrail is a feature element on the model and your eye will be distracted at one that looks sloppy. The lower rail is a 3/64" thick piece of laser cut boxwood. It slides onto each upright. Keep in mind that the angle on the top and bottom of each upright changes as it the rail moves outward from the center. This is to accommodate for the roundup of the qdeck. Make sure you position them accordingly. The more severe angles are toward the outside of the rail. The center pair of uprights has the least amount of angle. Then glue the lower rail onto all six uprights. Slide it down from the top...Make sure its seated properly and do a test fit before gluing. The top rail is actually made in two layers (top of the first photo). There is a very thin 1/64" thick boxwood layer with square holes cut out of it. Glue this onto the solid rail. You will notice its slightly smaller so it leaves a nice lip all around the bottom edge. Paint both rails black before doing a test fit of all pieces. You should be able to align the top rail in position by inserting the tops of the uprights into the square holes on the underside of the top rail. This should also force all of the uprights to be perfectly vertical as the laser cut holes are all lined up. Then test it on the model....it is very very important to center this rail port to starboard. You can peg each upright into the margin plank at the edge of the qdeck if you like. Make sure its straight in all directions. Meaning its vertical when viewed from the side of the hull....and along the edge of the qdeck when viewing it from overhead. You can see how it looks with the uprights left natural. You can paint the entire rail black if you prefer. Also note that I constructed the railings around the companionway and made the ladder leading down to the gun deck....just like the one on the gundeck you already made a few chapters back. I created the stanchions using 1/16" x 1/16" boxwood strips. I created what I though was a nice fancy profile. I kept them square in profile except for the center portion and the little ball on top. They were painted black. They were chocked in my Dremel and turned to create the rounded areas. The horizontal rails were cut from 1/32" x 1/32" boxwood strips. You can also choose not to add this railing at all. Many contemporary models including the one for Winchelsea dont show such a rail. But I think it adds a nice detail. Any Questions or comments? Next up the fancy rails along the shear caprail!!

It looks a bit low in your pictures. But not too bad. Yes it is a bit over faired but not terrible. You need take pics and see how it looks from all angles. Split the difference and i think you will be fine.

Nice progress. She is coming along.

Lovely work. The small belaying pins from crafty sailor work great as quoins should you want to cut down on the time spent on assembly. They are also pearwood which is perfect for you.

I would so much rather you experience the JOY of rope making yourself. You will never buy another package of rope again. That is very nice stuff!!!

I buy from wawak. The formulas I use are in this topic. Everyone has given you some great advice. Just stick with it. That sample you made looks great. Serafil Is also quite good if you cant find Mara.

Yes historically it is correct. Too many primary sources show it. Including this well-recognized example. It only looks wrong to many of you because you have been conditioned to see and accept so many wrong displays….done on kits mostly. But too many folks just didnt do the research and many of you (as with other aspects of a project) just adopted the ridiculously wrong occurrences of such things as accurate. Sometimes its very hard to correct fake news or misinformation! Note the size and style. Note the gradual “leaning in” of the letter towards the center. This is almost never shown correctly. The SPHYNX name is pretty close although it should be painted with more depth like the friezes.

Lovely work.

Yes you should still add them. I had thought about that as well. But it would be appropriate to add them even without cannons.

Nice progress.

UGH!!! Brings back memories for sure.

I would strongly recommend going much larger with the letters....AND if you can, make them on a curve t match the curve of the counter. But yes it looks great. Let me see if I can facilitate something for you, see below.....

Beautiful....looking forward to seeing some deck work made.

Yes very nicely executed. That will prove itself well worth the effort later.

Keep in mind we did moderate that that topic. And what you cant see, is that we did speak to those who treated the OP badly. There is and will be no tolerance for belittling other members. We have hundreds of members who may not be experts or they may even be beginners. To call what they have posted as a tip or suggestion "trash" is not something we want to condone at MSW. We have many new builders who are proud of what they have done. They want to share their methods and work. It may not be perfect or masterful. But they dont deserve to be treated badly. And you wonder why new folks dont stick around. Its because of people like those members who bashed the guy. I counted six. And I must say if those six experts suddenly vanished from the site...it would be less impactful then the scores of new builders alienated and poorly treated by them. These so called experts who love to pontificate (you know who they are) will not be allowed to treat other members like dirt. They have been formally warned. If they continue...they will be banned. The OP of that topic was NOT banned. Nor was the topic removed. It was being cleaned up and pruned of the nasty remarks other members were making. Such as the one below. Who would actually have the balls to to post THIS!!! ...on another persons topic no less. They should be ashamed of themselves. As if they are so perfect. Pompous posters who love to pontificate on their wealth of knowledge be warned....do not treat folks this way. There is a way to teach and educate without being a bully. You guys are certainly NOT mentor material. You get three strikes.....if the behavior continues...you are out. The bully below says the member wasted his time. You know what wasted my time...cleaning up the hate you decided to post all over someone elses topic. That was a waste of my time. Sending you a private message and issuing warnings to the folks who think they are "genius" masters who everyone should kiss up to....that was a waste of my time. found the video a total waste of time. So what's to respect in the effort to make it and why do you care whether the poster "is getting pleasure in his task?" I know I may be criticized for being "insensitive," but I don't respect the efforts people put into posting useless, let alone erroneous, "how-to-do-it" videos on the internet and I could care less whether the people who post such drivel are getting pleasure from it. They waste everybody else's time. Who has the bandwidth to waste on junk content? And here is the kicker.....non of the so -called MASTER builders in their INFINITE WISDOM of all things...posted a better method...or the correct historical reference. They made ZERO attempt to politely state that there may be a better way or a more historically accurate way. No attempt to teach or mentor. They just bashed the guy and went on long Rants...like this one I am now forced to write about how so many people dont know as much as they do and yet post on You tube and the internet all this bad wrong information.....making society more stupid. 18 posts by expert bullies were pruned from that topic leaving just two replies. All 18 had no value other than to belittle. Shameful. Talk about a waste of time reading those. The replies of the bullies had no value what so ever. Except of course maybe to allow the bullies to hear themselves claim omnipotent dominance of all things in the Universe.

No no r at this time…this one is off the drawing board for now.

Looking great. That deck looks wonderful.

Beautiful and a real milestone. I remember how that felt to get that done. You will feel the same way after getting the guns completed.

Very nice progress…Its interesting to see a copper plated Winnie.

Yes indeed....so still lots of choices to be made. The Cheerful hull is 18" long at 1/4" scale. So those who are familiar with it.....it will be only a couple of inches longer. But the Cheerful is also much wider at mid ship. Speedwell is a long narrow hull which is quite beautiful.

Yes I hear you....its tough for me as well. I have a lot of planning to do on it. Its just in the very very early stages. I havent even really decided on the scale yet to be honest. At 1/4" scale the Speedwell hull is about 20" long. Quite tiny by comparison to Winnie. I have even been considering enlarging it more to 3/8 scale...thats how early the planning stages are. When the time comes I will start another topic for it to get everyone thoughts. At 3/8" scale it would be just over 30" long and at 1/2" scale a bit over 41"..... After building large for the Winnie I am very aware that it may be the first POF for many, and larger would be easier. But how large....OR is it important to keep it at the traditional 1/4" scale although it may make building it a bit more difficult for some. Space considerations aside. Honestly I havent even measured it fully rigged yet. Maybe Greg can tell us what those measurements are. In the end I will probably be 1/4" scale. But my brain does seem to go where it wants to with this stuff. This is indeed the first attempt at the buildboard for Speedwell. I have some tweaks to it but it will be an upright build. Without all of that retched scaffolding you typically see on some POF kits. We will build it in a more traditional way using laser cut parts and learning the tried and true step by step methods. I believe its the easier way to go actually....than building those crazy boxes. We shall see...time will tell. If you start off POF building with all of those crutches and jigs and scaffolding, it will be that much harder to just pick up a set of plans which is not a kit and build it POF. You will become too reliant and conditioned to look for the "ugly-box". So learning the ropes so-to-speak is something this project will be all about. But its very much on my mind too. I also posted a picture below...from Greg of the Speedwell hawse timbers vs the Pegasus hawse timebrs. Keep in mind that the Pegasus is much smaller than the Winnie as well and would dwarf the Pegasus hawse timbers. So that should give you an idea of how large the Speedwell will be at 1/4" scale. At the dead flat mid ship the hull is 4.75" wide. Compared to the Winnie at almost 8". Chuck

Scroll up….see the other tabs above. Click on the tab for “general project discussion….etc” Thats where they are in the topic with the monograph chapter downloads. Speedwell is a long way off. You will know when it gets close because I will start a build log of the prototype. Until you see that…I wouldnt even think about. Stay focused on the Winnie which is what I am trying to do.

Binnacle friezes....and plan. binnacle.pdf

Nice progress Ben.

Nicely done. You are making some beautiful progress.