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Everything posted by Chuck
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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That is looking really good. Nice planking job. That will be a fabulous model.
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- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
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Thank You for posting. Today chapter ten was started. You saw that I had already planked the qdeck along the bulwarks after adding the margin planks. So before I could plank down the center I had to get the coamings all made. The coamings are build exactly like the others we built. They are laser cut for you. Just build them using the 3/64" thick right angle template as before. Round off the corners......yada....yada....and add the cambered gratings. Two packages were enough to do these three. But dont glue all three down yet. Only glue the forward most grating and coaming in first. This is very important. As you can see above, the first coaming was positioned and then it could be used to help position the capstan partners. These are also laser cut for you. But because so much depends on where you placed you beams.....where you placed your lower capstan, etc.... I laser cut the three parts for the capstan partners a bit longer on both ends (forward and aft). This will allow you to adjust to suit you model and get the round opening directly centered over the lower capstan. Then trim the aft side so it falls on the deck beam nicely. The aft end of the partners should cover half the beam it sits on. Then the other coamings can be glued in position. Make sure to center them down the qdeck of course. In that same photo above you can also see the mizzen bitts. These must be glued to the forward side of the beam before you start planking. So these were made up next. They are laser cut but you must finish the top timberhead shape as is usually the case. There is a hole laser cut through these as well. They will accept a 1/16 dia. rod. Use either brass, or even styrene or wood. It doesnt matter. You will have to clean out the holes with a 1/16" drill bit first as the laser doesnt cut a perfect right angle. So I made this hole slightly smaller as a pilot hole. Drill them again with a 1/16" bitt and insert the rod. Use the plans to get their length. Above you can see the bitts pretty good. But you can also see a modeler's convention for adding the slots for the ships wheel rigging. This is laser cut in two layers 3/64" thick. The lower layer is glued between the deck beams first. It has a laser etched reference for the second final layer. Just glue it on top like in the photo. We will plank around this. Finally the planking can commence down the center of the qdeck. Use your template as a guide like when you planked the fcastle. This will complete the planking or most of it. We still have the gangways to do but that will be done much later. You can see I also test fit the upper capstan. I still have to paint it red and add the metal band. But its all coming together. That will be done next along with the pawls....and also the mizzen mast coat. With each update she is getting less naked. Its is starting to fill out nicely with details. Any questions. On the workbench…
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Looks very good to me. Slow and steady.
- 642 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Looking great Rusty....onto the fun stuff....
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- winchelsea
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I finished up the fcastle rail on the starboard side. That left only a few fittings to make which are all added to the fcastle rail. These include the spanshackle cleat. This is made in three laser cut layers. It will be painted black and positioned on the rail following the plans. Under this cleat are two posts to help support the rail. There is also the "cat block" . This is laser cut and is 1/4" wide. But you will need to sand a curve into it that matches the curve of the rail. If you saved the laser cut sheet for the rail this is perfect for tracing the shape. Then sand it carefully to match. Insert the small sheave and paint it black. The last remaining fitting is another sheave as part of cleat....I am having a brain fart and recall its name currently. It is positioned along the bulwarks on the inboard side of the spanshackle cleat. This has been laser cut also and all you need to do is add the small sheave disc. Then paint it black...but below the caprail it should be painted red. You can see it in the photos below. In addition I have added all the eyebolts and the spanshackles. The spanshackles are made from 22 gauge SQUARE wire. If you cant find any square wire you can use regular 22 gauge wire. Use the plans to find the locations for the eyebolts and the size for the spanshackle. This pretty much finishes the fcastle details and chapter 9. The only thing I have yet to do is the cover boards for the stack opening. Those should be made out of any scrap 3/64" thick strips or sheet. This wont be laser cut because everyones stack will be positioned slightly different. Some overall pictures of the hull up to this point. Next I will start chapter 10 which is finishing up the qdeck details and rail.
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- winchelsea
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2021 NRG CONFERENCE
Chuck replied to kurtvd19's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
Yes, it was announced….. just a few posts back in This topic actually. -
2021 NRG CONFERENCE
Chuck replied to kurtvd19's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
The 2021 conference was cancelled. Nobody will be attending this year. Looking forward to 2022 however. -
If you can find the black fishing line. Its cheap enough. Get a range of weights. I think 15lb might be a bit small for keel bolts. Probably 20 or even 25lb is more appropriate. I have a large stock of the stuff from 10lb all the way up to 60lb. The brand is Sunset Amnesia. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154155421343?epid=1412250970&hash=item23e4610e9f:g:zHkAAOSw5Z1fkaGO
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Its not anything I can recommend. I use medium CA and that works for me. But it will be different for everyone. You should try all three and then pick the method that works best for you. Chuck
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- winchelsea
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Jim is correct in that those cross sections are made by Unicorn which is one of the largest pirate mfg’s in China. They have stolen designs from many others such as Amati, Panart, Mantua, Corel etc. And yes the Druid kits you mention are copies and knock-offs of Harold Hahn’s Druid plans although reduced. They are 1 to 1 copies actually. Their kits are not allowed on MSW. Purchasing them means giving monetary support to them. And yes they are cheap, as is typical of Chinese products.
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Its coming along. A little tip...Its much easier to sand both faces of the parts BEFORE you remove them from the laser cut sheet. Its stays nice and flat and you can just run some 320 grit on both sides of the parts to clean them up perfectly. Especially if you wont be removing the char from the cut edges. You can even use a sanding block without worrying that you will round off the edges.
- 840 replies
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- winchelsea
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