Chuck

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.
 
Anyway,  progress continues.
 
One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.
 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.
 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!
 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.
 
I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.
 
In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php
 
 
 

.

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.
 
Anyway,  progress continues.
 
One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.
 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.
 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!
 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.
 
I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.
 
In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php
 
 
 

.

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.
 
Anyway,  progress continues.
 
One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.
 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.
 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!
 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.
 
I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.
 
In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php
 
 
 

.

I just gave you access so you should be good to go!!!  Enjoy. 

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.
 
Anyway,  progress continues.
 
One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.
 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.
 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!
 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.
 
I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.
 
In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php
 
 
 

.

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.
 
Anyway,  progress continues.
 
One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.
 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.
 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!
 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.
 
I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.
 
In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php
 
 
 

.

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.
 
Anyway,  progress continues.
 
One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.
 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.
 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!
 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.
 
I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.
 
In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php
 
 
 

.

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.
 
Anyway,  progress continues.
 
One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.
 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.
 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!
 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.
 
I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.
 
In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php
 
 
 

.

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.
 
Anyway,  progress continues.
 
One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.
 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.
 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!
 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.
 
I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.
 
In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php
 
 
 

.

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.
 
Anyway,  progress continues.
 
One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.
 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.
 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!
 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.
 
I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.
 
In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php
 
 
 

.

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.
 
Anyway,  progress continues.
 
One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.
 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.
 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!
 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.
 
I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.
 
In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php
 
 
 

.

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.
 
Anyway,  progress continues.
 
One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.
 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.
 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!
 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.
 
I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.
 
In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php
 
 
 

.

Looks like another one I must add to the collection. 

The four hance pieces are in. They were laser cut from yellow cedar and set proud in order to shape them to the outboard hull shape. A cross spall was used to insure that they sit straight.


Mike

Some close up images of rigging details from the  replica under sail......
 

I think I might have mentioned this somewhere but I will repeat here.
 
There will be a starter package containing keel parts, frame parts and build board along with the plans.  You scratch everything else.  Estimate $100
 
Then there will be a full kit version no rigging materials...just the hull.  Estimate $180ish but this could be way off because I m not close to knowing yet
 
Lastly...a separate rigging/sail package with everything to add masts/sails to your model. Containing mast material, rope, blocks, whatever else including sail material. Estimate $45ish
 
Thats it.  Otherwise it gets to crazy.  This should make it economically feasible for most folks who may only want the starter package and scratch everything else.  Otherwise they can buy one of the other options.  But I cant itemize it out into smaller packages because that would be insane to keep track of.
 
Starter packages will only be available for those taking part in the MSW group project and bought through this site.  Once I add it to my store....there will only be the full hull kit and rigging packages available.   
 
 

Some close up images of rigging details from the  replica under sail......
 

I have been speaking to Peter Rindlisbacher who is an artist and model maker.  He is the builder and owner of the longboat replica in the photos I posted.  He has already given me some great insight about the rig.  He actually sails this thing and is very knowledgeable.  I believe he is also going to be the dinner speaker this year at the conference.  I have invited him to join our little group project as well.
 
Here are some additional photos of his longboat replica.
 




 
 

Continuing along....
 
For those familiar with this design concept from my Queen Anne Barge kit,  you will recognize the two-piece build board.  I have however, tried to make some improvements with each new project based on watching others build them.  In this case,  I have added some slots for bracing blocks.  Two for the transom and two for the bow/stem to stabilize them while planking.  These pieces can be seen below.  But do NOT glue them into the slots.  These will need to be removed at some point in the build.  It will be easier to remove the boat after planking without these in position.  They are a press fit.  If they are too snug....sand them a bit thinner because remember you will be removing them after a few planking strakes are completed.  So make sure they are loose enough for that.
 

There are two types of frames on contemporary models like this and the barge.  One piece frames and two piece frames.  Th etwo piece frames have floors and top timbers.  We will be doing the one piece frames first and there are 5 of them.  Another tip I was given by an individual can be seen below.  You can see thin strips of packaging tape along the inner cut line.  I used heavy and sticky packaging tape.  You can fold over the end to make a tab and place the tape so it spans across the seam.  This will give it added (temporary) strength while fairing and planking.  The tape is put on both sides.  The tabs will make it easier to remove the tape before breaking the inside of each frame free when it comes time to do so.
 

Then once this is finished you must test the frames in their slots on the build board.  They will be very snug by design initially.  You dont want these loose and falling out of the build board.  But you dont want them too tight either.  You want to be able to easily remove them at any time.  The best way to achieve the best fit is to sand the two tabs that fit into each slot just a little at a time until they are the perfect thickness.  You will know when they are good because they will be firmly seated and yet be somewhat easy to remove.  Be careful not to break the small tabs that hold the frame centers in the frames.  No need to clean any laser char.
 
In addition, test the fit of the bottom of the frame so it fits the same in its notch on the keel.  Not too tight and not too loose. The three single piece frames at the stern are shown below being test fit. and the two at the bow should be as well.  Dont glue these into the build board.  That would be a huge mistake.

 
With this completed, lets test the keel assembly on the build board atop the frames.  Carefully place the keel assembly into the stern half of the build board first.  This is a bit tricky if you havent done it before but once you do it a couple of times you figure out the little nuances.  Slip the stern post between the two braces first as you carefully guide the keel onto each frame.  Dont push to hard in each notch of the keel.  You have have tested and filed those so they slide into each notch easily but dont fall out because they are too loose. NOTE the two small additional braces waiting to be installed next.

The two transom blocks in the slots can be moved forward or aft so you can get a good fit against the transom.  Remember that they are not glued in.  The slots for them are longer than needed so they can be adjusted to best advantage.  But once in a good position, you can add the two smaller brace blocks.  These can and should be glued onto the build board. Use a little glue and push them into position against the transom.  But DONT glue them to the transom.  Just glue them to the build board.  These will stabilize the transom even more while planking.  Also use the laser etched lines on the build board to help make sure the transom is straight and not askew.  This method differs from the one I used on the barge kit but I think its an improvement.  Time will tell. 

Then repeat the test fitting of the keel in the bow half of the build board.  Do it the same way except there are no additional stabilizing blocks. These two will do the job and keep the stem from wandering while you add the first few strakes up there.  
 

How it all looks at this stage.   You will be removing and testing the keel many times before its time to glue the keel in position for good.  Now to do the two piece frames.  I also want to point out to those interested....look at the laser char edges of the frames.  You will see how they are not dark and black.  Yellow Cedar is very forgiving thanks to the oil present.   It doesnt effect the gluing either and I am using Titebond II for all my joints.  The build board is just basswood and you can see how dark that gets when laser cutting.   I find it very enjoyable to work in Cedar and removing the char is much easier in my opinion....as Cherry and Basswood burn like crazy.
 

No sorry Alan....too much redrafting to switch scales.  It would just be too small to do accurately also.  To keep it in scale the frames would need to be 1/32" thick if not thinner.  Thats why I wanted to do this larger version.  I had to compromise on that older 1:48 ME kit.  Using basswod as is done in that kit the frames needed to be made 1/16" thick which is huge so they wouldnt break immediately.   At full size that would be 4" thick.  Did you ever see a long boat with 4 x 4 lumber for frames?  

This new larger longboat model will be build just like the Queen Anne Barge.  All parts whenever possible will be laser cut including the planking which will be pre-spiled.  Below is the plan in progress as compared to the actual contemporary model.
 

 
Below are the initial parts that make up the keel assembly.  There will be a more simplified version of the keel assembly and another that is lightly more chalenging.  As is done on the contemporary model, lap joints will be used to connect the stem and stern post to the keel.  The simplified version will just utilize a butt joint and laser cut scarph joint to attach the stem to the keel.  I have started building the simplified version first shown on top of the photo below.
 

Before removing the laser cut parts from the sheet, they were sanded down with 220 grit sandpaper on both sides to remove the char.  Its easier to do while they are still contained in the sheet.
 

Then the three main (5/32" thick) parts that comprise the stem, the keel and stern post were assembled.  I used yellow glue to assemble them prior to sanding the char from the edges of each piece.  In fact I purposely didnt remove it from the joints...they are laser cut fairly precise and fit together very well.  Using tite-bond works great and the joint is very strong as long as you let it fully dry.  Once dry I sanded the char from all of the edges and prepared to add the other (3/32" thick) cedar parts that make up the keel assembly.

These were treated the same way.  I didnt remove any char from the edges util after they were glued into position.  They are very delicate and it is safer and easier to do after they are glued into position.  These thinner pieces were centered along the keel leaving 1/32" on each side to form a rabbet or "lip" for the external planking.

Next up I added the transom...it has a laser etched groove down the inside to help position it properly.  It helps a lot but I was also very careful to also square up the transom properly in relation to the keel.
 

Thats it for now....I have one last part to add to this stem assembly before I start assembling the frames.  I will post that very soon.
 

The cap rail is in place. The three sections were glued quite easily because the width of the pieces is generous. So no problem to position the cap rail. Just  make sure you have enough width when you will sand the pieces.
Sanding the cap rail was more time consuming than expected. After having sanding the outboard edge flush with the planking, I drew with a compass open to a width of 5/64" a line all along the top of the cap rail. I have the view of the area to be eliminated.
I completed this step in three work sessions. By chance it's the FIFA World Cup, so I was able to work while listening to the broadcast of the match on my TV.  You just have to stay calm when your favorite team scores a goal...   It was a bit more difficult during the Swiss-Serbia match !
I think that this step is important and that it is necessary to devote the necessary time because it gives you the final aspect of the barge.
I will now work on the floorboards.

Thanks Christian and all the 'Likes'.
Christian, I can only agree with your remark : the design of this barge is a must !
 
While waiting to finish laying the boards of the center floor, I prepared the two others platforms.

I just mark on side of each board with a a pigma brush from Sakura Corporation.
Looking at the picture, I realize that a small sanding on the sides is required...
 

Look below this topic in the same forum and you will see two reviews that Jim posted....

Very nicely done.....almost time to start putting some skin on those bones!!!