Chuck

I am re posting this from another topic so its easy for folks to find should they need it.
 
Its very difficult to measure rope using any method.  That technique of wrapping it around a dowel is not very good either.  There is too much variation depending on how tightly you wrap it.  It would flatten out the rope and distort it.   It is also hard to get a consistent space next to each revolution around the dowel.   One may be closer than another.  It may be squishing the wrap next to it etc.  If you did it ten times or asked two different people to measure the same rope that way you would never get the same measurement.  It may be close but you would be surprised.
 
Thankfully You would also be surprised how sophisticated our software has become.   I use Corel Draw and Illustrator all of the time.   When you draw a line in either program its thickness is measured in points.  Lucky for us there are many conversion tables and apps that will convert points to inches.....or metric.  Whichever you prefer.
 
If you know that a line you need is .018" and you want to see what that exact thickness or diameter in our case is....then do the conversion.  
 
.018" is equal to 1.296 points.   If you create a line in any of those programs and make it 1.296 points thick.....its pretty darn accurate.  You will know what a .018 size rope should be....
 
Here is a chart I have on my site for folks that need a more visual way to see what these sizes actually look like. 
 
http://www.syrenship...pesizechart.pdf
 
Its pretty darn on the money and I have one close by at all times when I make my rope.  Its leaps and bounds the more accurate way with technology to measure rope accurately.   Also set your printer for the highest quality print job........
 
Maybe when I get some time I will create a new chart which contains even more size variations.  Maybe every .005" or something.  Here is a good inches to points conversion calculator.   Its the one I use.
 
http://www.thecalcul...s-to-inches.php
 
Chuck

Its very difficult to measure rope using any method.  That technique of wrapping it around a dowel is not very good either.  There is too much variation depending on how tightly you wrap it.  It would flatten out the rope and distort it.   It is also hard to get a consistent space next to each revolution around the dowel.   One may be closer than another.  It may be squishing the wrap next to it etc.  If you did it ten times or asked two different people to measure the same rope that way you would never get the same measurement.
 
You would be surprised how sophisticated our software has become.   I use Corel Draw and Illustrator all of the time.   When you draw a line in either program its thickness is measured in points.  Lucky for us there are many conversion tables and apps that will convert points to inches.....or metric.  Whichever you prefer.
 
If you know that a line you need is .018" and you want to see what that exact thickness or diameter in our case is....then do the conversion.  
 
018" is equal to 1.296 points.   If you create a line in any of those programs and make it 1.296 points thick.....its pretty darn accurate.  You will know what a .018 size rope should be....
 
Here is a chart I have on my site for folks that need a more visual way to see what these sizes actually look like. 
 
http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/resources/ropesizechart.pdf
 
Its pretty darn on the money and I have one close by at all times when I make my rope.  Its leaps and bound the more accurate way with technology to measure rope accurately.   Also set your printer for the highest quality print job........
 
Maybe when I get some time I will create a new chart which contains even more size variations.  Maybe every .005" or something.  Here is a good inches to points conversion calculator.   Its the one I use.
 
http://www.thecalculatorsite.com/conversions/length/points-to-inches.php
 
I will also make this a stand alone topic so its easier for folks to find when they search for the topic.
 
Chuck

Working my way up from the garboard plank.  Four more strakes to go.  Everything going smoothly so far.  I'll sand out the rough spots once the planking is done.
Maury

Ron: Thanks for your tips.. Your mileage meter (6 pack) is one that we use for those long distances across the tundra... Helps pass the time when you are waiting for the herds of caribou to pass. :-) While I do get in around 8 in the evening, I will make that final push on Tues evening. Keen to get down to Mystic and check out the sights.. Besides I have a few NRG  members that have promised me that there will be a cold Sam Adams draft waiting for this parched northerner when I get to the hotel.
 
I will make sure to find you at the Conference.. and make sure you remind me to tell you the story about the sour toe cocktail...
 
MIKE

Don't forget to bring the model to our next club meeting.  I want to have a good look at it.   I will will be bringing mine.  We can compare notes.
 
Since you seem to be moving right along at a rapid pace,  I also completed the next chapter and its available for download.  I should have another available shortly as well.
 
http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/revenue-cutter-cheerful-1806.php
 
Its really looking great.  The guys are going to flip over that planking job you are doing.

Jeff is working on updating the plans and monograph.  As soon as its complete I will post an an update along with the adjusted plans on the website.  There really isnt much to say about it.  The scarfs just need to be turned so they are now fully visible on the top and bottom of the keel rather than the sides.  Stay tuned for the actual update.
 
Chuck

Don't forget to bring the model to our next club meeting.  I want to have a good look at it.   I will will be bringing mine.  We can compare notes.
 
Since you seem to be moving right along at a rapid pace,  I also completed the next chapter and its available for download.  I should have another available shortly as well.
 
http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/revenue-cutter-cheerful-1806.php
 
Its really looking great.  The guys are going to flip over that planking job you are doing.

Mike, Chuck,
 
I'm totally jealous you can get together face to face with your builds.  Those of us out here on the frontier request photos to be posted of the meeting of the Cheerfuls. 
 
Erik

Don't forget to bring the model to our next club meeting.  I want to have a good look at it.   I will will be bringing mine.  We can compare notes.
 
Since you seem to be moving right along at a rapid pace,  I also completed the next chapter and its available for download.  I should have another available shortly as well.
 
http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/revenue-cutter-cheerful-1806.php
 
Its really looking great.  The guys are going to flip over that planking job you are doing.

Don't forget to bring the model to our next club meeting.  I want to have a good look at it.   I will will be bringing mine.  We can compare notes.
 
Since you seem to be moving right along at a rapid pace,  I also completed the next chapter and its available for download.  I should have another available shortly as well.
 
http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/revenue-cutter-cheerful-1806.php
 
Its really looking great.  The guys are going to flip over that planking job you are doing.

Jeff is working on updating the plans and monograph.  As soon as its complete I will post an an update along with the adjusted plans on the website.  There really isnt much to say about it.  The scarfs just need to be turned so they are now fully visible on the top and bottom of the keel rather than the sides.  Stay tuned for the actual update.
 
Chuck

That looks really fantastic...well done.  I love the color of that rigging.!!!! 

Jeff is working on updating the plans and monograph.  As soon as its complete I will post an an update along with the adjusted plans on the website.  There really isnt much to say about it.  The scarfs just need to be turned so they are now fully visible on the top and bottom of the keel rather than the sides.  Stay tuned for the actual update.
 
Chuck

That looks really fantastic...well done.  I love the color of that rigging.!!!! 

That looks really fantastic...well done.  I love the color of that rigging.!!!! 

That looks really fantastic...well done.  I love the color of that rigging.!!!! 

That looks really fantastic...well done.  I love the color of that rigging.!!!! 

Today's project (and last nights) was the shrouds.  Lots of serving of rope, but I think I'm good on thread for a while.

 
The dead-eye/shroud jigs I made worked fantastically, and allowed me to make much better looking rigging than I would have thought at this point, being only my 2nd build.  I also used zip-seizings on top of the dead-eyes to allow the proper rigging of the shrouds crossing over on top of the dead-eyes.  Really like the way they turned out.

 
Current status, shrouds completed, but attached to the jigs.  I am trying to decide the easiest way to seize the shroud cleats - I am leaning towards removing the jig, and seizing them by sticking the shrouds in a third hand to the side of the ship, one at a time, rather than trying to work on the inside of the shrouds on the ship.
 

 
About a year ago, when I first started building the Carmen and found MSW, I spent a lot of time going through build logs, and like any new thing, I think people tend to see a specific 'thing' that make them go "Wow, that is amazing, I could never do that".  On this site, for this hobby, there is a lot of that 'wow' factor in many of the logs here, but one of the main ones that stuck out to me (for whatever strange reason) was the mast-heads on some of the ships, where so many ropes come together and chaos should reign, but instead, there is an orderly and neat stack of ropes showing a definite purpose and design.
 
Today I had a real 'wow' moment in my ship modeling.

 
I have no idea why that seems so amazing to me, but it really does, and even now I'm having a difficult time believing that yes, it really was me that did this thing (although there is more to go there of course).  There have been plenty of things on this ship that were more difficult than this, and took far more effort to be happy with, but for strange reasons in my head, this is probably one of the coolest moments for me so far in the hobby.  It's a good day.

After planking the bulwarks I painted it red.  The finished bulwarks were 5/32" thick.  Maybe slightly thinner.  Then it was time to add the caprail.  It will be added in two pieces.  First the main rail which is 1/16" thick.  This was sanded flush both inboard and outboard.   Another strip will eventually be placed outboard as a fancy molding.  It is scraped like the others and is 1/6" x 1/32".  But it wasnt added yet.
 
First I had to create the hawse hole plates....which are essentially 1/32" thick pieces with the holes ut for the hawse holes and the bowsprit.  This sits flush with the top of the caprail so I had to add it first before I could add the fancy molding strip along the caprail outboard.  I didnt drill the hawse holes yet.  This will be done next.  But the hawse plates in position makes it easy to find their locations.  So that will be done in a day or two.
 
Lastly I added that fancy molding strip outboard for the cap rail which stands proud of the hull planking and finishes it off.   This is where I am to date and after drilling the hawse holes and hole for the bowsprit I will make preparations to start planking the deck.   Its getting there...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I am contemplating painting the hawse plates and the stem above the ear molding black.....along with the fashion pieces at the stern.  But I have time to decide that.  So I will live with it as it is shown for a while before I commit to it.  Maybe after I drill and file the holes for the bowsprit and such...we shall see.
 
 
 
 

They are thinned down....thats their finished thickness.  Check the plans.
 
See this example of a cutter stern from inboard...see how the frames are exposed?  The top is the Cheerful from rogers collection and the bottom is Surly from the museum in Ontario.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

Some notes about the companionway that I will be building next.  It is a typical companionway.  They are all similar.  Some have a more sloped top.  But I drafted the profile shown on the original draft which was pretty square.  I am sure you could alter it to suit and it would be reasonable and OK. 
 
But one thing I noticed that was different from contemporary models and not consistent.  Some Companionways did in fact have a coaming while other did not.  Some had wide coamings that stuck out as i built for the skylight.   But I decided to model a coaming that way for the skylight on the assumption that some were portable and could be lifted out and replaced with a simple grating for air circulation.   But the Companionway is different.  My plan shows it with a  thick coaming but I may model it without as in the example provided (Second drawing and photo).  This way anyone building her can have more visual info and can decide which they want to choose.  I guess you can say the image below still shows a coaming but it is just not wider than the companionway which I have seen in other examples.  There are such a wide array of different configurations it can get confusing.
 
I welcome any discussions about it.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

I forgot to show the image of the Rogers model which was "zero" help.  The companionway is basically shown as a giant solid red cube with smooth sides.  
 
You can see the lower and flattter skylight though.  This is at odds with the original draft.  But I wonder why so little detail on that cube....
 
Chuck
 

I treated myself to Chuck’s new serving machine. Not that I need to serve anything at the current point in my Syren build , but I always like to get acquainted with new techniques early on so that I don’t run into too many problems when I really need to apply these techniques later.
 
During the last few months I had thought about a suitable design for my own serving machine. It is not really difficult to find good examples in the internet. However, when I looked at the amount of work, which would go into the design and the material, especially suitable gears, Chuck’s new ‘Serv-O-Matic’ kit along with the reasonable price tag quickly changed my mind. Images 1 and 2 show the content of the kit. As all of Chuck’s products the kit is high quality (solid Cherry wood) and easy to assemble – basically only the laser burn marks need to be removed (to have a nice looking machine) and the wood sealed with rub on poly (image 3). The end result is a beautiful, very sturdy, and nicely functioning serving machine (images 4, 5, 6). Image 7 shows the result of a test run with a thread, which was not really suited for serving, but was conveniently ‘available’. It may give a little idea what kind of results can be achieved with a little practice and the right serving thread.
 
This was the 3rd time I bought products from Chuck’s Syren company. I know I am repeating what other fellow modelers have already written in their build blogs. But each time I ordered something I was amazed about the excellent service, the reasonable pricing, and above all the outstanding quality of the products.
 
Thomas
 

Image 1
 

Image 2
 

Image 3
 

Image 4
 

Image 5
 

Image 6
 

Image 7
 
 
 

I have actually started on the rigging, finally!  Not just messing around with serving and making a test shroud, but actually rigging!   Started by attaching some blocks to the bow that will hook to the bowsprit when it's installed.  I'm putting that off as long as possible, it's so long, and thin at the end that I'm afraid of breaking it while turning the model around to work on it.     Unfortunately, there is very little I can do on the bowsprit itself before it's installed to the ship, so I moved to the main mast, which while it will be sticking up, it won't be sticking way outside of the hull to the front, so I think it's a lot safer to have in place for a long time, and it's also much thicker and tougher than the bowsprit.   First thing was to figure out a way to make the shrouds all line up properly at the bottom where they will tie into the dead-eyes that were mounted in the channels earlier.  I ended up using a thin piece of wood, and drilling holes into it to hold the upper dead-eyes with soft copper wire, so that I will be able to attach the shrouds to them while they are held in position.  I made a line to align them vertically, and then held the shroud lines down in the position that they would run in order to orient them to be in a straight line when the shrouds and lanyards are all rigged.  You can see the pencil lines I made by holding the shrouds in front as shown here.  

 
Then, started on actual rigging stuff.  I made the backstay pendant.  This goes around the top of the main mast before anything else, and has blocks at the ends which will attach to tackle on the rails near the ships wheel on either side.
 

 
Next I made the first piece of rigging that will actually make the mast un-removable from here on out.  It's officially part of the ship now.      
This is the Spreader Yard Horse.  I have no idea why it's called a horse, but it is.  I'm learning lots of new things about sailing ships by doing this.  This thing actually acts as a secondary mast, and the lower yard (the spreader yard) attaches to this, not the mast.  The reason is that the yard needs to be able to be lowered to the deck, and it if was attached directly to the mast, the parrel (the thing that holds it to the mast, err.. to the horse) would run into the main sail hoops that are around the main mast.  I had to re-read the bit about this thing several times, and look at the rigging plans a bunch, before I finally understood what it did and why.  In any case, it's the 2nd item that has to go around the top of the main mast, so it was installed next.  Here it is in all it's glory, it's the rope running along the front of the mast.
 

 
Top:

 
The top mast will go into the spot in front of this, so it won't be able to slip off of the braces it's sitting on (the raised curved pieces on either side).   Bottom from front and side:     It's attached to the deck with little tiny dead-eyes, just like the shrouds will be attached to the channels later (next actually).   And that's an update of probably 8 or so hours of ship-building.  Strangely, when I'm focused on working on it, I don't really realize how much time is passing at all.  I guess that means I enjoy this stuff!   ps - For those who are curious about why I explain a lot of stuff, I write this for a non-ship building audience of general modelers as well, and I'm too lazy to re-write everything when I post it here.  If I did it the other way around, and posted here, I'd have to re-write it for the other group, or they wouldn't understand half of it.  I figure you guys can look past the over-explanation of what things are, and there might also be new people reading who actually appreciate it!

Very well done!!!b  That looks great....   Its so nice I want to trade models Mike 
 
Chuck