Remcohe

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

Slowly progressing.
 
Some special knees half way down the hull
 

 
And the progress to date
 

 
The pump well I had made years ago got a bit beaten up in storage. As I also was not very happy with some of the dimension of the stock I used I decided to make a new one. 
 

 
I made a jig to make accurate cuts for the dado's on the stanchions, it's hard to see but at the far side where the blade cuts is a thin strip of wood the width of the blade to mak each cut at the same distance.
 

 
The finished stanchions, the vertical dado's were milled.
 

 
Remco

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

Slowly progressing.
 
Some special knees half way down the hull
 

 
And the progress to date
 

 
The pump well I had made years ago got a bit beaten up in storage. As I also was not very happy with some of the dimension of the stock I used I decided to make a new one. 
 

 
I made a jig to make accurate cuts for the dado's on the stanchions, it's hard to see but at the far side where the blade cuts is a thin strip of wood the width of the blade to mak each cut at the same distance.
 

 
The finished stanchions, the vertical dado's were milled.
 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

The new pump well. Not much different from the old one but the stanchions and the louvres are a little less wide than the old one. It looks more delicate. I also enhanced the joints on the door to show the individual planks.
 

 
Remco

Hello,
Carl and Greg,
Here are the next attempts .... :D

The nailing I made with holes diameter 0.5 mm. The filling is made of furniture wax.


Before I put the parts in the sloop I have it coated with "Ballenmattierung".

Thanks,
your nice remarks are a pleasure again.
Latest photos of the chaloupe:

 

 

 

I have started the capstan.  The diameter of the capstan on the Atalanta plans (as well as the Fly) is larger than shown in TFFM Vol 2, which represents Pegasus.  I redrew the capstan to reflect this.  The first thing I did was look at Greg's pictures in TFFM Vol 3.  Next, I re-read Dan's tutorial for Vulture's capstan.  Finally, I put wood to machine.  
 
After several years of threatening, I finally took the plunge and bought a Sherline mill.  I already own their lathe and so saved some money by using the motor from the lathe.  It takes less than two minutes to swap it out and that includes walking from one end of the house (where I have the lathe in my workshop) to where I set up the mill (better natural lighting this time of year).  I used English boxwood for the barrel and whelps to provide a subtle color contrast between the capstan and the framing.  The barrel wood has a few checks in it but the flaws will be hidden under the whelps.  The whelps are of good clear wood.
 
I took a square piece of boxwood and rounded it down to eight sides, like one would do for a mast.  I do not own a 4-jaw chuck and this made holding the wood blank easier in the 3-jaw chuck.  In the lathe, I turned the blank to the proper dimensions. I made all three sections longer than necessary to make sure there was sufficient length for final assembly.  
 

 
Now I was able to play with the new toy!  The upper barrel is divided into 12 sections for the 6 whelps and the lower barrel is divided into 10 sections for 5 whelps.  I mounted the blank onto a rotary table so that all of the sections could be milled to the same width.  The flats were milled while supporting the end of the blank to prevent downward deflection.  The upper and lower sections were then cut away from the central round section.
 

 

 

 

 
The next things to make were the whelps.  The upper and lower whelps are different in shape and width.  I traced the outline onto the end of a piece of boxwood, orienting the whelp along the grain. The blank was mounted into the vise, which was attached to a tilt table. The first one took over an hour (but half of that time was figuring out the correct setup); the second one took 30 minutes.  They will be sliced off the loaf when I am ready to install them.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Hi,
 
here the next update. I have made the base for the stove from 0,3mm wood strips, cut in squares. The first image show the cutting jig. Second image show some the "Stones" with a pencil line I mark before cutting, it's serve as direction guide by gluing. The "stones" are glued to 1mm plywood base.
 

 

 

 

 

 
To simulate the slate stone the plates are painted with diluted acrylic paint, then rubbed with pencil to give the surface "stone look"
 

 

 
Alex

Hello everyone,
 
Today I experimented blackening the brass strapping on the one pulley block I made, also as a trial.  First I used the diluted batch and waited about 10 minutes.  It did blacken it some but not as I would like it.  It did not effect the wood, which is a good thing.  Next I put it in the undiluted stuff and let it "cook" for a few minutes.  It blackened it a little more and could be acceptable.  But i would like it a little more.  It could be that the stuff may have lost some its power, who knows.
 
I'll be ordering the Novacan Black Patina, it seems to be an okay product.  I also read up on Black Onix Patina that's good for all metals.  
 
I also took the bull by the horns and CA cemented the gudgeons to the gunport lids.  That was a rather trying exercise that really taxed my patience.  I could have used three hands but the Almighty Creator thought different about that     Lucky though that I have rather steady hands and things worked out okay.  One port's pintles were stopped up with the epoxy cement and I had to remove them.  So, I'll have to remake two of them little buggers.
Next will be cementing the cannons to their preinstalled carriages. There is still a lot of cleanup to do before I can put the poly on.  
 
I got a message back from ProxTech who informed me that they are having a problem fitting the new motor in the hand tool.  It appears that the new motor is for the later models.  We'll have to wait and see how they are going to fix it.  They also informed me that this hand tool was made in Luxemburg and so is the replacement motor.  That makes me breathe a little easier as far as quality is concerned.
 
Okay, here is a pic showing yuns the blackened pulley block strap.  Please give me your thoughts.  
 

 
Cheers,

Today was mostly taken up with gardening.  I had to cut back on the vines next to our house, in the vacant lot.  They are encroaching on our property and a general nuisance.  Then I had to mow the front yard and pull a few weeds there too.  
 
I didn't get to CA the gunport lid hinges though, I want to take my time with them.  Instead i made a few more single sheaf pulley blocks, that makes a now a total of 12 out of the 32 I need for the center deck guns.
 
Last week Friday I stropped two blocks to see if brass wire would work and look like compared to using black thread.  There is to be a hook at one end so that makes the tread method a little bulky.  I kinda like the brass but how to make them black.  I can't use the blackening method because I have to tack-solder the end where the hook is.  Yes, I made the strap and hook from one piece of 0.3 brass wire, rather then using a hook separate.  I can try to use a VERY small brush and paint the brass black.
Question is, what's all your opinion?  Hmmmm, I'm wondering - -  if I carefully paint the blackening on the brass, will it stain the blocks?  Any thoughts on this from the experts?
 
I'm attaching a photo of the port side hole open for yuns to see what I had in mind.  The hold will be loaded with wooden barrels and perhaps bales of "stuff."  Hey, it's supposed to be a merchant vessel and we need to have some cargo in the hold.
 

This shows two pulley blocks, one is strapped with black thread and the other with brass wire.  Don't forget that each pulley block is 5 mm long and about 2.5 mm wide.  It's really not easy to make a respectable knot or fastening with thread.  At this scale things quickly begin to look too bulky.
 

Here is another view
 

This show the opening in the port side of the hul where the plug goes to close it. Yes, everything still is in the rough state.  It'll all be stained and or painted when all the work in that area is done.
 

This is my handy dandy voltage converter for the 220 - 240 rated Dremel tool.  Yup, I'm actually drilling a rope hole for the next single sheaf pulley block.  Credit goes to my dear bride Gwen who took the photo.
 
Cheers,