Erik W

I started work at the stern to prepare the boardroom and beams of the formwork.

 

 

 

 

 

 

First, a very happy and healthy New Year to all, and one filled with modelling pleasure.
 
Now, for my first update of the New Year. I have made and mounted the rudder. The rudder itself is from Chuck's laser cut framing set, shaped with sanding sticks. After some indecision, I chose to paint the top portion of the rudder red to match the previously done stern post extension piece. I did , however decide to leave the tiller natural wood. The tiller was cut from boxwood sheet using a glued on copy of the plan as a template. The cutout wood blank was shaped with files and sanding sticks.
 
Since I don't like working with metal, I chose to do the iron work in black painted paper, with wire used for the actual mounting. This included the pintels and gudgeons and the bands at the rudder head. It doesn't show well (if at all) in my photos, but there are bolt heads, made from tiny pin heads drilled and inserted in the pintels and gudgeons.
 
With this work completed, it is my intention to work from the stern forward on the interior detailing. The first task will be to make, install and rig the first four guns at the aft end.
 
Bob
 
 

Hi All,
 
I have been working on this ship for a few months now.  This is my first scratch build (i.e. not starting from a kit).  The plans were purchased form Alexander in Germany (he has a build log on this site for the same ship).
 
There are a number of personal requirments relating to this build:
1) I want to understand and depict how a ship was build at the time;
2) Where possible/feasible I want to show what life looked like at sea at the time;
3) It has to be at a scale where details can be seen, yet still be small enough to stay in the house (i.e. I do not need to build a massive warehouse to store this - and other - build/builds).
4) Relating to the scale again - this build will be a stepping board to a series of much more complicated builds of ships within the golden age of sail.  I wish to keep the scale the same across all ships, so I can see how the size of a relatively small ship (this 6th rate, or something like the Royal Caroline) relates to something like a 1st rate.  Again, the size of the largest ship will have to fit within my house.
 
I spent a few months looking at as many build logs as possible to gain ideas as to how to tackle my wishes.
 
A) Thinking about scale, I had two preferred sizes: 1:32 (this scale was chosen as there are good quality figurines available that require painting - another hobby of mine) and 1:48 (this scale relates to my earlier interests in moddeling: WWII aircraft).  Any smaller scale and the figures lack the detail I am looking for.
To facilitate making my final choice, I copied the cross section in 1:48 (the scale of the plans) and increased it to fit 1:32 (an increase of 50%).  It was then that I realised that 1:32 would not meet criteria 3 and 4.  So 1:48 it is.
 
Thinking about how to depict building method and life on board, I had a number of difficulties to overcome.
 
When looking at other build logs, it struck me that in many cases the frames were futher apart than mentioned in Peter Goodwins literature (the admiralty style shows the lines of the ship, not how it was built at the time).  Furthermore, it appears to me that it is quit difficult to show details of the inside through these narrow gaps - this is a perception of mine, I may be wrong. (So criteria 1 is met, but criteria 2 is not)
 
I have also seen models where the outer hull (planking and frames) on one side of the ship is (mostly) removed to show the inside.  This fits with criteria 2, but how do I incorporate criteria 1 in this method?  Also, these models kept the interior rather bare, which does not conform with the impressions I have when reading literature relating to the cramped conditions that must have existed at the time (e.g. this ship had a crew compliment of 140).
 
Looking closer at these thought I realised that I wanted to have a combination of building a ship and fitting it into a diorama of sorts.
 
So then I decided on the following:
    1) one side of the hull (port side) will be completely planked;
    2) the other side (starboard) will show how the hull was built - all frames, half frames, etc.; but no planks on the outside;
    3) at the starboard side I will cut strategic openings to show specific scenes going on inside the hull;
    4)  the ship will be fully rigged, again showing what may happen at a particular time during the voyage.
Relating to point 3 and 4 - I must make sure that all activities are related to the same point in time.  For instance, It would be silly to show the raising of the anchor (below deck) while at the same time showing the stowing of sails above deck.  Somehow that does not compute - the first depict the beginning of the voyage, while the last in extreme cases the en of the voyage.
 
As this is my first scratch build, it will go slow (learning the ropes while building, so to speak).  This means I have plenty of time to decide what scenes to depict.  I will appreciate any input/ ideas any of you can bring.  The first step is to build the empty hull to a point where decks need to be built.
 
Slainte
Peter
 

Wow!  Thanks for all the kind words.  As far as a next build, my plan is to throw my hat into the ring with all the other Cheerful builders.      I'm working on getting my ducks in a row now with what I need from Chuck, and Jason at Crown Timberyard.
 
Erik

Thank you George .
 
There's more .... I've cut out the recesses for the Chain Pumps and Elm Tree Pumps :
 

 

 

 
And also fitted the Keelson :
 

 

 
Lastly, I've made the Chain Pump Inlets using the pieces from the PE set supplied by Admiralty Models. These are probably the last of these available as the set has been discontinued and were graciously supplied by Greg Herbert from his own left-over supply. 0.5mm brass wire was used as the "bolts", and the assemblies blackened :
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Hello,
 
yesterday I finished the rail and this morning we hang up the buckets. The captain gave all for the rest of the day free.
 

 

 

 
Regards,
Siggi

Hello,
thanks for the likes and positive feedback.

Just in time for the year, the pinnace was finished.
For this I want to show you some pictures.

 

 

 


I wish you all a Happy New Year!

was thinking of building a ship for winter project haveing built airplanes by kit or scratch . This will be a scratch built USS Essex
...
            History as follows a thirty-two-gun frigate built in Salem, Massachusetts, in 1799, was not the most glorious vessel in the history of the American navy, yet she was unique. Sailors throughout the world remarked on her speed and beauty of line, and the list of men who commanded her—Edward Preble, William Bainbridge, James Barron, and David Porter—reads like a who's who of the early American navy.
         She was the first U.S. warship to round the Cape of Good Hope into the Indian Ocean. Thirteen years later, she became the first American man-of-war to round the Horn into the Pacific, where her crew fought and lost one of the bloodiest sea battles in U.S. history.
        I intend to use wood possibly some resin / casting  . Epoxy home/made jigs the whole ball of wax . As i work my models i get ideas for tools . The plan's i found online a search of the title may just turn up the site! A pm for tip on plan resource ? question
        I suppose i will cut a few corners in order to speed results i will be making some comparisons to(relying) other models on forum but i am flexible with conventional methods/ as you will see" posting first pic will try to keep em comeing will be about 5 days for lite ply to get here see you soon.. by the way way too much rake(set) on my copeing saw  blade for oak lol,spelling ? olde english' thanks

After shaping the masts I flattened the two sides to install the cheeks.
 

 
After the glued dried overnight I sanded them down and cut in the ‘fingernail’ shape at the bottom.
 

 
For the iron bands I decided to use the copper foil tape instead of the pinstripe tape.  I had considered making them from brass but then I would have had to put some of them on prior to installing the cheeks but thought I would have a hard time sanding the cheeks down without damaging the bands.  The foil was cut into 1/16” wide stripes and then blackened.
The bands were then installed per the drawings.  I’m not really crazy about now the bands that are supposed to be under the cheeks look but not sure how to make them look any better.
 

 
In order not to damage the bands when sanding down the front fish I decided to round it off before gluing it to the mast (should have thought of this for the cheeks  ). To do this I used some double sided tape on a scrape piece of dowel to hold the fish in place while sanding.  The pieces were stained and the back notched to fit over the bands.   They haven’t been installed yet.
 

 
Christmas present (I was a good boy) already put to work.  Proxxon sander, works very well.  Need to get use to it though, removes a lot of material very quickly.
 

It’s been quite an enjoyable journey. I started this model as a practice build, the idea being to use the build to develop my skills before moving on to a larger, more involved project. The longboat has been a challenge every step of the way. Being a practice build, I was committed to using the kit supplied materials. I learned that though I’ve used basswood for years, the low quality wood supplied with this kit set new standards for poor quality . . . The one upgrade I made was using Chuck’s scale rope, rather than the nylon rope that came with the kit.
 
While this project started as a bit of an experiment for me, I quickly grew rather fond of this little boat. I think my results are acceptable for a first build, and the finished boat actually turned out to be a credible model in its own right. Being a practice build, there were several instances where I skipped redoing things I wasn’t completely happy with in favor of just moving on to the next step. My next build will involve only high quality materials, and the will to put in my 100% and do things over until I get them to my liking.
 
I’d like to thank everyone who has contributed to this build log with their comments, encouragement, and ‘likes’. They have really helped contribute to sustaining my motivation through the more difficult aspects of this build. I’d like to give a particular shout out to Brian (GuntherMT), Toni (tlavine), Mike (Stuntflyer), and of course Chuck, who were kind enough to answer my questions off-line when I messaged them at one time or another. Mike (Stuntflyer) has been a real mentor to me. His longboat was his first ship build, and in my mind it stands as a sterling example of what can be achieved on a first build when patience and persistence are applied. As they say, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery; it’s no accident that my longboat has nearly the same look as Mike’s.
 
Lastly, I can’t thank Chuck enough. It’s your devotion to this hobby that has helped attract new members like myself. The Longboat is an exquisite kit, and just the model to whet the appetite for more. Your availability, not just to me, but to all members of this forum, is the type of attention that’ll ensure that this hobby continues to thrive.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik
 
 

Wow!  Thanks for all the kind words.  As far as a next build, my plan is to throw my hat into the ring with all the other Cheerful builders.      I'm working on getting my ducks in a row now with what I need from Chuck, and Jason at Crown Timberyard.
 
Erik

Wow!  Thanks for all the kind words.  As far as a next build, my plan is to throw my hat into the ring with all the other Cheerful builders.      I'm working on getting my ducks in a row now with what I need from Chuck, and Jason at Crown Timberyard.
 
Erik

Wow!  Thanks for all the kind words.  As far as a next build, my plan is to throw my hat into the ring with all the other Cheerful builders.      I'm working on getting my ducks in a row now with what I need from Chuck, and Jason at Crown Timberyard.
 
Erik

Thank you albert and Burroak.
I would like to wish everyone who watches my log Happy New Year and of course a lot of joy from your hobby.
Preparation of cathead. Before final installation will be supplemented by even ornaments.

It’s been quite an enjoyable journey. I started this model as a practice build, the idea being to use the build to develop my skills before moving on to a larger, more involved project. The longboat has been a challenge every step of the way. Being a practice build, I was committed to using the kit supplied materials. I learned that though I’ve used basswood for years, the low quality wood supplied with this kit set new standards for poor quality . . . The one upgrade I made was using Chuck’s scale rope, rather than the nylon rope that came with the kit.
 
While this project started as a bit of an experiment for me, I quickly grew rather fond of this little boat. I think my results are acceptable for a first build, and the finished boat actually turned out to be a credible model in its own right. Being a practice build, there were several instances where I skipped redoing things I wasn’t completely happy with in favor of just moving on to the next step. My next build will involve only high quality materials, and the will to put in my 100% and do things over until I get them to my liking.
 
I’d like to thank everyone who has contributed to this build log with their comments, encouragement, and ‘likes’. They have really helped contribute to sustaining my motivation through the more difficult aspects of this build. I’d like to give a particular shout out to Brian (GuntherMT), Toni (tlavine), Mike (Stuntflyer), and of course Chuck, who were kind enough to answer my questions off-line when I messaged them at one time or another. Mike (Stuntflyer) has been a real mentor to me. His longboat was his first ship build, and in my mind it stands as a sterling example of what can be achieved on a first build when patience and persistence are applied. As they say, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery; it’s no accident that my longboat has nearly the same look as Mike’s.
 
Lastly, I can’t thank Chuck enough. It’s your devotion to this hobby that has helped attract new members like myself. The Longboat is an exquisite kit, and just the model to whet the appetite for more. Your availability, not just to me, but to all members of this forum, is the type of attention that’ll ensure that this hobby continues to thrive.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik
 
 

Wow!  Thanks for all the kind words.  As far as a next build, my plan is to throw my hat into the ring with all the other Cheerful builders.      I'm working on getting my ducks in a row now with what I need from Chuck, and Jason at Crown Timberyard.
 
Erik

For the coating of the smaller circular scuppers, after having pierced with much trepidation and caution, to avoid spoiling the model, I used a thin lead foil beaten anvil wrapped around a rod of the right size that I used as a guide 'insertion into the hole:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

little progress:

 

 

 

 

 
 
scuppers:

 

 

 

 

Other photos are without comments, just a bulk of what I managed to record while being in the hull. I was only allowed into the hull for 5min, so was shooting photos all around, just in case
 
Also, if you are interested - do not miss the youtubes by the builders of the replica. They are in russian, but nevermind the narrative. 








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Here comes the most interesting part of the tour! Only for shipmodelling geeks, regular visitors are not allowed inside the hull yet - you can fall from the deck beams. 
Follow the guide! He is dressed according to the Ship's period, and is a real enthusiast. 
 

 

 
Knees are made out of laminated oak planks, because it is too hard to find properly bent oak trees:

 
Mast post and internal planking. Note the ventilation holes, interesting detail:

 
Gunport sills are made in a simplified manner, without any angled mortises. Cheaters!

 
Also, they made the keel joints in the same way as I did, same projection. Not side-to-side, but top-to-bottom. I noticed it only on the photos, not when I was onsite, so do not have a really good photo. But it is visible here:

 
And a screenshot from the early construction video, where it is also visible:

 
So TFFM is wrong? Or both ways of making that joints are valid? Anyway, now I am not worried that my keel is wrong. Hey, 1:1 model is assembled in the same manner!

Visited Poltava project again. It is the replica frigate of the same period is my Cromwell.
Built based on the same books. According to the guide, it has a classic British design, and constructors of the replica are reading the same books
 
The hull is completed, now they build decks and plank the hull:
 

 

 
Tiny model in 1:12 scale is being built in parallel
The model would be a part of the museum.
 

 
The launch is scheduled for mid 2017, would be parked in St.Petersburg, Russia. No engine, pure sail power.
They are also planning to sell the set of very detailed plans that could be used to build a model. There were 5 (five!) people working in CAD fulltime, building the ship in 3d and planning everything. So these plans are going to be good!

Wow!  Thanks for all the kind words.  As far as a next build, my plan is to throw my hat into the ring with all the other Cheerful builders.      I'm working on getting my ducks in a row now with what I need from Chuck, and Jason at Crown Timberyard.
 
Erik

Wow!  Thanks for all the kind words.  As far as a next build, my plan is to throw my hat into the ring with all the other Cheerful builders.      I'm working on getting my ducks in a row now with what I need from Chuck, and Jason at Crown Timberyard.
 
Erik

Wow!  Thanks for all the kind words.  As far as a next build, my plan is to throw my hat into the ring with all the other Cheerful builders.      I'm working on getting my ducks in a row now with what I need from Chuck, and Jason at Crown Timberyard.
 
Erik

Any idea what's next?