Erik W

Mike,
 
If you're looking for high quality strong small diameter wire, I recommend Phosphor Bronze wire rather than brass wire.  It's as easy to form/bend as brass, but is more durable, so if inadvertently bumped, it'll still keep it's shape.  This is where I get my supply: https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop.aspx?SearchValue=wire
 
Erik

I agree with Toni... you are much too organized.  And also too neat.  There's no sawdust on that workbench... If my Admiral sees those pictures, I'm doomed.  Doomed I tell you.
 
Those are lovely and precise joints. 

More carving.  The decorative curl on the end of the planksheer rail was made several times...Dropped and lost one of them, the final one is OK.  While it seems so small while carving, it looks a bit large in place.  The volute has a simple gouge pattern.  I do not have the skills to carve the pattern as David laid out.  The pear was too soft to carve, so I went back to the Box wood and stained it.  Not an attempt to match the pear, just decorative.  I may thin it down (from the back).  It looks a bit heavy as is.  The upper bulwarks are just set in place.  More work there and then the Roughtree rail.
Maury

I thinned the volute from the back (used double-sided tape to hold the piece to the sander sled) to about half the thickness of the last picture. 
I also put some dark walnut stain to tone-down the color a bit.  Looks better.  I also thinned the fancy end of the plank-sheer molding and filed the drift end to match up better.
Maury

Not a lot of progress, still cutting the gunports. A lot of work, not enough time for modelling...

 
Added this monograph into the collection. Who knows, maybe that would be the next project in 5 years?

 
Santa read that build log and decided I really need some new toys!

 
Now I have 5 power tools hidden in the different parts of the modelling table, and still some room left. How do you guys manage to occupy the entire workshops? 

Happy belated Birthday Wishes Remco. May you age as slowly as your progress on Kingfisher!

In the next step I made the mast clamps for the thwarts.
 

 

 

 
On the following pictures are all built-in parts for the Pinnace

Hello,
 
now with the scrolls the ship is more or less ready. I see a light at the end of the tunnel. 
 

 
But the rest must also be done. There is the stairway to the poop deck. Normally there are two stairways, but the Thunderer/ Hercules has only one in the middle of the deck.
I think it's a model of the Dragon, because of the dragons at the stern. The label in NMM says only this:
 

 

 
I followed in most cases the plan and not this model, so should I better build two stairways? In the plan is now stairway drawn, but I think not that this means there was't any.
 
Regards,
Siggi
 

Eric, your build looks superb. Beautifully done. The name plate was a good idea. That should look really sweet wherever you put this boat to display.
 
Paul

Thanks for the kind words guys!
 
Mike, yeah I'm on the home stretch now.  I ordered a small brass name plate from a trophy/award shop last week.  I think the boat will really look nice when finished and displayed.
 
Erik

I attached the shrouds and stays.  I'm enjoying the rigging, though there is a steep learning curve since I haven't done anything like it before.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

Looks good Mike!  If you're like me, this rigging thing is a totally new experience.  In my own case it's a rewarding process . . . but is giving me an ulcer at the same time!  Like with the rest of the boat, take it slow.  I've gained confidence as I've progressed with the rigging.  I'm sure you will too.  I'm looking forward to seeing your results!
 
Erik

Thanks for the kind words guys!
 
Mike, yeah I'm on the home stretch now.  I ordered a small brass name plate from a trophy/award shop last week.  I think the boat will really look nice when finished and displayed.
 
Erik

Looks good Mike!  If you're like me, this rigging thing is a totally new experience.  In my own case it's a rewarding process . . . but is giving me an ulcer at the same time!  Like with the rest of the boat, take it slow.  I've gained confidence as I've progressed with the rigging.  I'm sure you will too.  I'm looking forward to seeing your results!
 
Erik

Thanks for the kind words guys!
 
Mike, yeah I'm on the home stretch now.  I ordered a small brass name plate from a trophy/award shop last week.  I think the boat will really look nice when finished and displayed.
 
Erik

Thanks for the kind words guys!
 
Mike, yeah I'm on the home stretch now.  I ordered a small brass name plate from a trophy/award shop last week.  I think the boat will really look nice when finished and displayed.
 
Erik

Hello,
 
Another small progress update.
 
Alexandru

Nicely done Erik. Seeing yours makes me want to redo the rigging on mine using Chuck's rope. It must be nice seeing it all start to come together.
 
Mike

I attached the shrouds and stays.  I'm enjoying the rigging, though there is a steep learning curve since I haven't done anything like it before.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

I attached the shrouds and stays.  I'm enjoying the rigging, though there is a steep learning curve since I haven't done anything like it before.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

Looks good Mike!  If you're like me, this rigging thing is a totally new experience.  In my own case it's a rewarding process . . . but is giving me an ulcer at the same time!  Like with the rest of the boat, take it slow.  I've gained confidence as I've progressed with the rigging.  I'm sure you will too.  I'm looking forward to seeing your results!
 
Erik

Looks good Mike!  If you're like me, this rigging thing is a totally new experience.  In my own case it's a rewarding process . . . but is giving me an ulcer at the same time!  Like with the rest of the boat, take it slow.  I've gained confidence as I've progressed with the rigging.  I'm sure you will too.  I'm looking forward to seeing your results!
 
Erik

Time to spend a little time in the stern.  What should have been the easy fabrication of a few planks and several window frames turned into a three day project.  The upper counter is make up of two planks.  Since there is side to side curvature, these were made with paper templates and then cut to shape.  So far so good.  Now it is time to make the frames for the stern lights.  Something does not look right.  I make the lower sills and install them.  Something really does not look right.  The windows are too short.  So out come the plans and everything is remeasured.  The lower counter is
2 mm too tall, which made the upper counter 2 mm too tall.  The quarter deck clamps are 1.5m too low at the stern and therefore the quarter deck transom is too low.  This is a perfect example of cumulative error coming back to haunt you.
 
In this case the fix included removing and correcting the lower and upper counter planking and raising the quarter deck transom.  The deck clamps are very firmly affixed so the last few beams will have shims placed at their edges to compensate. The window height was still a tiny bit too short so I thinned out the lower edge of the quarter deck transom to buy a little more height.  Like any normal ship modeler, the last thing I thought about at this time was taking pictures for before/after shots.  Consequently all the pictures are "after" rebuilding but before final sanding.  The first three pictures show the rebuilt counters.  I was playing with lighting and exposures and accidentally came up with the second picture. The stark contrast of the light wood against the dark background helps to see the increased height of the windows.  And for the record, the irregularity of the lower surface of the quarter deck transom has been corrected.
 

 
 
 

   
Once the upper counter was in place, the lower sills were installed.  The sides of the frame are recessed back from the aft edge of the lower sill.  This provides a stop for the out-swinging window.
 
 
 
 
 
Since the lower counter was modified, I decided that now would be a good time to make sure the rudder sat properly behind the stern post.  Happily, there was no problem.
 

 
The stern post terminates at the level of the quarter deck top-of-beam.  One of the beams is notched into the fore face of the stern post.  In the last photo you can see how the ceiling and the quarter deck clamp has been cut back to make room for the window stops.  Additionally, you can see the transom elevated approximately 1.5 mm above the deck clamp.
 

 

 

I like the presentation you're doing... the thin rods supporting it.  Beautiful work, Mike.

Coming along nicely,  Mike