michael mott

Just 2 more buttock lines, and then the diagonals and body plan
 

all the waterlines were close but a couple differed a bit aft the end of the keel.

 

 
I suppose I will be able to cross reference them once the body plan is done.

 
That's it for today.
 
Michael
 
 
 

Thanks for the comments and interest.
I had to make a start today....sort of like playing with a new toy. first the raw material

I taped the lines drawing to the drawing board as a rough guide, and chose some Albalene drawing paper and set it over the drawing.
next the baseline and the station lines, and diagonals were drawn according to the stated dimensions, using the table of offsets working out from the center line.
 

Beginning with the sheer line, and marking off on the station lines I used a stick of clear pine 1/8th square as the stick for the ducks. These are slabs of 2" diameter steel with some shelf liner double sided taped to the underside to stop them sliding with some 1/16th steel rod shaped and pointed to grab the stick.

 

 
As is clear the drawing is close but not as accurate as my line marked off from the table of offsets.
 

 
The diagonals are off a bit on the print as well, of course this is all due most likely to the printing and paper stretch all the usual suspects.
 

I am using a 4H for these lines, the trick being to keep the pencil sharp.
This is so enjoyable, nice instrumental lute music playing in the background, a great way to spend the Saturday afternoon. Once the lines are drawn I will be able to plot the frames.
 
Michael
 
Michael

Just 2 more buttock lines, and then the diagonals and body plan
 

all the waterlines were close but a couple differed a bit aft the end of the keel.

 

 
I suppose I will be able to cross reference them once the body plan is done.

 
That's it for today.
 
Michael
 
 
 

Thanks for the comments and interest.
I had to make a start today....sort of like playing with a new toy. first the raw material

I taped the lines drawing to the drawing board as a rough guide, and chose some Albalene drawing paper and set it over the drawing.
next the baseline and the station lines, and diagonals were drawn according to the stated dimensions, using the table of offsets working out from the center line.
 

Beginning with the sheer line, and marking off on the station lines I used a stick of clear pine 1/8th square as the stick for the ducks. These are slabs of 2" diameter steel with some shelf liner double sided taped to the underside to stop them sliding with some 1/16th steel rod shaped and pointed to grab the stick.

 

 
As is clear the drawing is close but not as accurate as my line marked off from the table of offsets.
 

 
The diagonals are off a bit on the print as well, of course this is all due most likely to the printing and paper stretch all the usual suspects.
 

I am using a 4H for these lines, the trick being to keep the pencil sharp.
This is so enjoyable, nice instrumental lute music playing in the background, a great way to spend the Saturday afternoon. Once the lines are drawn I will be able to plot the frames.
 
Michael
 
Michael

Just 2 more buttock lines, and then the diagonals and body plan
 

all the waterlines were close but a couple differed a bit aft the end of the keel.

 

 
I suppose I will be able to cross reference them once the body plan is done.

 
That's it for today.
 
Michael
 
 
 

So here's another update much sooner than expected! I finally finished installing the deck beams. I thought it made sense to just install all of the deck beams at full width to make it as strong as possible for fairing the deck framing, and then cut out the cockpit afterwards. Does that seem reasonable to everybody? Even though I have the "How to Build a Lightning" book, I'm still kind of winging it a fair amount because not all the steps for a full size build necessarily translate down to a scale model. So hopefully this will all work out in the end. Fairing down the deck framing is going to take some doing. I think I'm going to have to use a dremel with cut off wheel to cut most of the excess down from the side frames before I can begin sanding, so we'll see when I'll be able to get around to doing that.

A thread full of opinions for sure!..... I couldn't resist, its been one of those days.🙂
 
Michael

Thanks for the comments and interest.
I had to make a start today....sort of like playing with a new toy. first the raw material

I taped the lines drawing to the drawing board as a rough guide, and chose some Albalene drawing paper and set it over the drawing.
next the baseline and the station lines, and diagonals were drawn according to the stated dimensions, using the table of offsets working out from the center line.
 

Beginning with the sheer line, and marking off on the station lines I used a stick of clear pine 1/8th square as the stick for the ducks. These are slabs of 2" diameter steel with some shelf liner double sided taped to the underside to stop them sliding with some 1/16th steel rod shaped and pointed to grab the stick.

 

 
As is clear the drawing is close but not as accurate as my line marked off from the table of offsets.
 

 
The diagonals are off a bit on the print as well, of course this is all due most likely to the printing and paper stretch all the usual suspects.
 

I am using a 4H for these lines, the trick being to keep the pencil sharp.
This is so enjoyable, nice instrumental lute music playing in the background, a great way to spend the Saturday afternoon. Once the lines are drawn I will be able to plot the frames.
 
Michael
 
Michael

Yes, being  George Daniels  student back in the day would have been a brilliant career choice methinks.
 
Michael

Thanks Tom, I will email my contact at the museum for permission to get a copy for my own use to build the model.
 
Michael

I wanted a reasonable quality vise for my drill press. I had a cheap Amazon one that I threw away it was so bad. I have one of these:
 

Which is ok but not great. As well as having a small opening size, those enormous mounting slots are useless.
 
You can get really good machinists vises but they're expensive and I'm not milling big chunks of steel.
 
So I decided to make one. 
 


 
I used rods, bearings, and brackets designed for CNC machines on a 1/4" aluminium plate. The body is 9 and 12mm birch ply.
 
I wanted it to look nice because I'm planning on keeping it a long time, so I covered the ply in some old walnut sheet I had. The jaws are bolivian rosewood which is definitely a bit over the top but I had a couple of pieces left over from making a box at Christmas.
 
There are 5/16" holes drilled in the base so I can mount it on my XY table at an accurate 90 degree angle.
 

 
It's heavy and rigid, and I had fun making it. 😀
 

In metal-working so-called 'engineers parallels' are used to raise work in a vice. These are either solid, ground steel-prisms or sort of short lengths of wavy steel sheets. They always come in pairs, ground to exactly the same height. There is also a height-adjustable variant, kind of two connected wedges.
 
A cheap alternative are sections of drill-rod of different diameter and cut to the length of the vice. Drill-rod is ground to specific tolerances, so the diameter is constant, at least for our purposes. For narrow work-pieces use a single one, for wider work-pieces one in front of each vice-jaw.
 
Yet another alternative are 'keys' that are used to 'key' say a gear-wheel onto a shaft. They come in a wide variety of sizes and are ground to certain tolerances, as they have to fit into the key-ways of given tolerances. As a mass-product the are quite cheap and I have pairs of different sizes for my miniature vices.
 
As the jaws in the above vice are made interchangable, one can jaws of different height and perhaps different profile, say to clamp round work. Many engineers vices also have a rabbet cut into the edge of each jaw, so that thin, flat stock can be clamped without parallels.

Thanks for the comments and interest.
I had to make a start today....sort of like playing with a new toy. first the raw material

I taped the lines drawing to the drawing board as a rough guide, and chose some Albalene drawing paper and set it over the drawing.
next the baseline and the station lines, and diagonals were drawn according to the stated dimensions, using the table of offsets working out from the center line.
 

Beginning with the sheer line, and marking off on the station lines I used a stick of clear pine 1/8th square as the stick for the ducks. These are slabs of 2" diameter steel with some shelf liner double sided taped to the underside to stop them sliding with some 1/16th steel rod shaped and pointed to grab the stick.

 

 
As is clear the drawing is close but not as accurate as my line marked off from the table of offsets.
 

 
The diagonals are off a bit on the print as well, of course this is all due most likely to the printing and paper stretch all the usual suspects.
 

I am using a 4H for these lines, the trick being to keep the pencil sharp.
This is so enjoyable, nice instrumental lute music playing in the background, a great way to spend the Saturday afternoon. Once the lines are drawn I will be able to plot the frames.
 
Michael
 
Michael

Thanks for the comments and interest.
I had to make a start today....sort of like playing with a new toy. first the raw material

I taped the lines drawing to the drawing board as a rough guide, and chose some Albalene drawing paper and set it over the drawing.
next the baseline and the station lines, and diagonals were drawn according to the stated dimensions, using the table of offsets working out from the center line.
 

Beginning with the sheer line, and marking off on the station lines I used a stick of clear pine 1/8th square as the stick for the ducks. These are slabs of 2" diameter steel with some shelf liner double sided taped to the underside to stop them sliding with some 1/16th steel rod shaped and pointed to grab the stick.

 

 
As is clear the drawing is close but not as accurate as my line marked off from the table of offsets.
 

 
The diagonals are off a bit on the print as well, of course this is all due most likely to the printing and paper stretch all the usual suspects.
 

I am using a 4H for these lines, the trick being to keep the pencil sharp.
This is so enjoyable, nice instrumental lute music playing in the background, a great way to spend the Saturday afternoon. Once the lines are drawn I will be able to plot the frames.
 
Michael
 
Michael

Hi Dan, I just came across this log, Hats off to you sir! what a super job you are doing with a very challenging restoration. Given my very limited experience working with bone, I would not be able to take on such a project, As Druxey mentioned the smell is apparent, and for me the game changer.
 
Very interesting work on the "cooked " rigging lines.
 
Michael

Hi Dan, I just came across this log, Hats off to you sir! what a super job you are doing with a very challenging restoration. Given my very limited experience working with bone, I would not be able to take on such a project, As Druxey mentioned the smell is apparent, and for me the game changer.
 
Very interesting work on the "cooked " rigging lines.
 
Michael

It was like an early birthday gift! The six drawings arrived today I opted to let them be folded because of the difference in the postage costs, as it was they cost $27 postal fees. Although the drawing state that they cannot be reproduced, I think that the obligatory picture of the plan chest drawer that they are now safely nestled in wont be infringing any rules.
 

 
So with the table of offsets and the drawings as a guide I will be able to prepare a set of model building plans including the sawn oak frames. Still lots of preparatory work yet though.
 
Today I am a happy camper.
 
Michael

The article details some interesting methods for the creation of the model by Christopher Morrison, some of the details at 1/32nd scale of  a 21 foot boat on page 222 there is a footnote that mentions that George Daniels book Watchmaking is one of the three most important modelmaking books he has ever read, I concur with that assessment, I was given a copy of this book for my 50th birthday in 1998

George makes the art of metalwork sound as easy as snapping lego bricks together. The book is a treasure trove of techniques and is full of wonderful drawings illustrating these techniques.
 
One of the interesting things that Christopher Morrison points out in the description of Gill Smiths boats is that he used sawn natural crook frames from Oak. Planking of Cedar, deck planking of Pine ,Cedar , or Cypress.  
 
I have three types of trees in my backyard Crab-apple, Amur Maple, and Bur Oak. I keep all the pruning pieces and save some for modelwork and some for the occasional evening sit by the fire pit in the late summer evenings. 
 
here is a lovely piece of apple that I cut 1/2 inch thick and stickered after a major limb was pruned a few years ago.
first the rough bandsawn side
 

 
Hand planing the surface.

 
and a close up of the smooth surface, so for a naturally curved beam.
 

 
The piece is about 13 inches long.
 
There was a replica of Pauline made called Anitra in 1988, I am hoping that there were photographs taken of the build.
 
Michael
 
Michael
 
 
 

Bob thanks
Mike yes it really is only a drill press, I would have done a few things differently if it were going to be a mill, now that you mention it maybe down the road I might make a small mill.
 
Jack thanks
 
I just finished the 1/8th collet and set to drilling with the #80 drill bit the smallest I have 2 holes .040" apart The first attempt i was a bit too aggressive with the feed down and broke the drill in the hole.... could have been a faulty bit........
 
The second bit worked well and I was much more gentle with the feed.
 

 
The thing I like the most about this drill is that I can barely hear it. I probably wont be drilling too many #80 holes but it is good to know that the drill can handle it.
 
Michael
 
 

Yes, being  George Daniels  student back in the day would have been a brilliant career choice methinks.
 
Michael

It was like an early birthday gift! The six drawings arrived today I opted to let them be folded because of the difference in the postage costs, as it was they cost $27 postal fees. Although the drawing state that they cannot be reproduced, I think that the obligatory picture of the plan chest drawer that they are now safely nestled in wont be infringing any rules.
 

 
So with the table of offsets and the drawings as a guide I will be able to prepare a set of model building plans including the sawn oak frames. Still lots of preparatory work yet though.
 
Today I am a happy camper.
 
Michael

Yes, being  George Daniels  student back in the day would have been a brilliant career choice methinks.
 
Michael

It was like an early birthday gift! The six drawings arrived today I opted to let them be folded because of the difference in the postage costs, as it was they cost $27 postal fees. Although the drawing state that they cannot be reproduced, I think that the obligatory picture of the plan chest drawer that they are now safely nestled in wont be infringing any rules.
 

 
So with the table of offsets and the drawings as a guide I will be able to prepare a set of model building plans including the sawn oak frames. Still lots of preparatory work yet though.
 
Today I am a happy camper.
 
Michael

It was like an early birthday gift! The six drawings arrived today I opted to let them be folded because of the difference in the postage costs, as it was they cost $27 postal fees. Although the drawing state that they cannot be reproduced, I think that the obligatory picture of the plan chest drawer that they are now safely nestled in wont be infringing any rules.
 

 
So with the table of offsets and the drawings as a guide I will be able to prepare a set of model building plans including the sawn oak frames. Still lots of preparatory work yet though.
 
Today I am a happy camper.
 
Michael

So, a George Daniels fan as well? Wish I could afford one!
 
Enjoy the prep work, Michael.