shiloh
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Everything posted by shiloh
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Life boats
shiloh replied to bluenose2's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Just leave them open, with the plugs out, can’t be to far off that way. jud -
Looks like your knees are well thought out and you have a good plan to produce them. One thing you might consider is to move the radius points, inboard and down, of the circular curves you drilled. Would allow for transition curves between the tangents and those curves. From the photos, it looks like that is what the builders did, it really improves the appearance and often adds strength in these types of transitions. You are doing some amazing work on this cross section. jud
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Looks like a jig saw to me, mounted upside down under a table. Make a table for your jigsaw; make it so you can have zero clearance inserts when using different blades. Most jig saws can be set at an angle or even rotated so the blade direction can be changed, looks like more options than the blade runner has. Have made tables to mount my upside down routers under before the commercial tables came out, worked well, see no reason preventing anyone from doing the same thing using a saw you probably already own and seldom use, probably have a bunch of blades sitting around already. Wonder how many of their existing jigsaw parts they might be using in this new saw. jud
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Captain Al Thanks for the explanation. Shiloh is my wife’s login name. My computer went bonkers and I could not log in. Don’t know what hit my machine but the computer whiz cleared the disk and reloaded the operating system, it stayed up about 3 weeks and again went down. Early on I asked my wife to join so I could use her login to see everything a guest can’t and I was soon posting. My login name is, jud, hers is Shiloh. The name of a horse I gave her the day he was conceived, had to put him down a few years ago on my wife’s birthday of all things. Don’t know why she chose the name and I never questioned her about it, other than asking what she would name the colt. Both Northwest nativies. jud
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Believe that cotton was imported into England, not exported. Common sense would lead one to think that the manufacture of the model that they would make good fillers in their model, maybe had to many on hand from another model and unlikely anyone would ever question the cotton bale filler. Those who are bothered by this, put ships stores in their place and move on. Those that are not bothered, also move on and use them, tell anyone who asks, that it’s there so the native women will have, for the first time, material that they can weave into comfortable bras. A PR gesture. jud
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That twisting has been happening since ropes were first put to use in blocks. Pre stretching, using a load only heavy enough to take the stretch out and re-train the memory gained from being in a tight coil has often been used. There are reasons that a block should be free to turn under load so fixing the blocks, so there can be no turning, will cause the line to chafe at the block it self. Thread the tackle with the lay of the rope, using the side view, ‘right lay, thread clockwise’. Sometimes tumbling the bottom block through the tackle will reduce the tendency to twist, might need to undo and tumble the other way if you have the wrong result. Stoppers are recommended to be on hand in case there is a problem, seamen have been known to descend the hanging rig with a fid in an hand to use in opening up a twisted fall so the tackle can run, not a safe thing to do. Blocks and Tackle will want to twist if it can until the rig is well worked in to it’s job, works the best just before it needs replacing. Modelers have other options, but using the methods learned the hard way could cut down on some rigging problems. Can remember the old cowboys saying that to prepare your catch rope properly was to drag it behind your horse for half a day, never did that but did pull 300 foot surveyors chains many miles, puts a nice polish on a lightly rusted steel chain. jud
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Nice looking and apparently useful new vice. But don't throw out, sell or store that old one. Get someone to, or you do it, make a portable stand that will hold the base of your old vice about bench height. Use a pipe or a 4 X 4 between the floor end of your stand and the top plate. That plate should hold the vice without any protrusions outside of the base of your vice. There is a surface on your old vice to use as a firm backing surface for setting rivets etc.. You may even find that planning your planks might be easer when using that free standing vice because of better access, same with sawing or sanding, heck if nothing else, you could use it as a short hat rack. jud
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Have gotten my hands on a few C. Northcote Parkinson's novels, just finising up Touch and Go. Have read all of the above noted authors, have not found any of those mentioned that I did not like. jud
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You slip and because you have not learned to keep your other hand clear or you are pulling a blade toward you, you bleed Next you heal up and have gained some practical experience. Gloves, leave them in the store and pay your dues. jud
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pompey2's, S and D, from the riging plan, seems to fit with that drawing, "S" = single sheave, "D" = two sheaves (Double). Have fun with your build. jud
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Years ago I made a vice stand from an old truck wheel and a section of 6" well pipe, with the 5" vice on it, it weighs about 120 pounds. Made another for Dad after he had seen mine but used a Disk blade, a lighter pipe and a 6" vice. Those vices have served us well for their intended use since 1978 and still do. They are not anything like you need, except for the concept, it is handy to be able to move them where needed or out of the way of other things. The bases are stable for most things, but for very heavy or large items, the work to be done and balance needs to be considered. Have some hobby vices that clamp on. With some pads, they work fine and don't damage what they are mounted on. They can quickly be set up or removed, digging them out is a bigger chore than mounting them. jud
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A work boat with oars and sailing capabilities which means a mast. The mast and it's rig plus the sail were probably stepped, rigged and used with straight manpower without the aid of the windless. Being a work boat it would be necessary to load barrels, timbers, new and used rope coils and also have the ability to ship and carry out a Kedge Anchor. Probably many other uses where a windless in a boat would be useful. A windless, mast, boom and an assortment of blocks and rope could be great labor saving devices when used by experienced seamen. jud
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all eyes on this subject. jud
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Use the air system recommended by the air brush manufacture, you won't go wrong with that. Yes, Pressure systems can be put together using tanks normally manufactured for other uses that could be used with little problem with the addition of, depending on intended use, relief valves, drain valves, dryers, filters and regulators. Your questions indicate that you may have just enough knowledge to be dangerous without the experience to judge what is good, how to, advice on line , no matter how well intended. The manufacture has a vested interest in not steering you wrong about the air supply for your air brush, may be more expensive up front, use their advice anyway, there is liability and insurance protection built into their recommendations no one else will provide. jud
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Proxxon 12v Pen Sander?
shiloh replied to Landlocked123's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Might look at one of the osculating tools, I have the Dremel with quite a few accessory’s. Bought it for a flush sawing job I needed to do. Worked fine for what I bought it for but found out later when using it for other things that the object being worked on needs to be solidly secured or it just gets in sink with the cutting tool being used and gets blurry to watch and you can watch it a long time and not cut or sand a thing.. Should be a versatile tool for modeling if you have some fabrication abilities to make your own specialized attachments or modify existing tools made for the tool. Another thing you might look at, is a flexible shaft accessory for a rotary tool, I have one that I occasionally use when nothing else I have would do the job, usually because of a tight working area. jud -
Might be a resin available that is intended to represent water, seem to have read something about such material somewhere. You are doing good work on this project. jud
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What is she? Maybe buoy tender with outboard booms to lift out or place buoys in the water, rigged so the load could be swung over to the center boom to pick up or place the load on deck? Looking forward to studying the rigging you end up with. jud
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Sounds to good to be true. Hope my suspicions are unfounded. I won't be sending any money until there is much more information made public and there is a binding, enforceable legal document, recorded in a proper jurisdiction, to produce, 'that will require that a performance bond be posted'. That would establish intent with the bond providing funds for compleation in the event of non performance. But most important are the details about ownership and control after launch and fitting out. Will she meet licencing and safety requirements to engage in the noted activities, then how is the maintance going to be taken care of long term? jud
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Help with Proxxon MF70
shiloh replied to Bluto 1790's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
As noted there are gib adjustment screws for the X movement and another set for the Y movement. jud -
Put some baffels in your tanks. Unless you have driven a tanker truck half full you probably don't apreciate the amount of thrust moving water can create, baffels help control the speed of the water movement in closed tanks. jud
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Have had several Captains that as soon as we were at sea, would put the ship in the trough and slow to steerage way only and let her clang, bang, crash and let the loose gear slide around until the crew had their lessons relearned. After that good rolling we would get underway and up out of the trough. The Captain would then get on the 1MC and order, "Secure for Sea”. Before we singled up the Ready for Sea Reports had been submitted by each department head. The Captains seemed to know when the crew needed a refresher course in what securing for sea ment. Shot in shot Garlands look nice but would be a danger to all at sea, even during battle. I would not be surprised to find out that the shot was kept below except for the ready service shot, that was probably kept in secure boxes near the guns. Were I in command, the Shot Garlands would only be used for show in port and would slowly disappear from my decks over time while the inventory of secure ready service shot lockers increased. jud
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It would also be easy to sandwich the plank between surplus stock with the desired taper within the sandwich and remove what is sticking out with one of several methods available. If doing more than a few, refinements could be justified that could develop into a useful and versatile taper guide. Taper guide on a lathe, could be a good place to look for ideas. jud
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Jeff, sounds like you are using your JAX Black on uncleaned surfaces. The instructions say to brush on or immerse clean metal ...... What you think is clean, probably is not clean enough. Metal is fussy when it comes to plating or etching, do some research, probably some cleaning suggestions on the bottle of JAX Black. jud
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I would not be surprised if wet leather was sewn onto the unserved rope loops. A baseball stitch would allow for less mass but a two needle stitch would also allow for a stretch fit that would have then been shellacked or varnished after drying. The ships I rode were still using leather in some rigging, such as lifelines or awning cables, brass grommets used in the sheeting. When a kid Dad used to rope me using a grass rope with a brass honda, that sucker hurt when it hit your head, makes me think that whatever was used in the bolt rope loops, probably did not have a lot of mass. jud
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A wreck in 18 feet +/- that has lain for 374 years in oxygen rich shallow water, nice find. I would doubt that much is left of her, unless she was quickly buried in sand and silt with encrustations quickly covering any exposed metals. Ceramics would survive but in 18 feet of water, extensive salvage probably took place down through the years. Salvage and disruption caused by salvage probably has left little to be recovered today. Regardless, I hope a through search using every recovery technique be used, shallow water might even allow for a Coffer Dam to be placed around the wreck and the recovery could be done in mud, need to leave some water, so further damage is not caused by drying. Conservation facilities need to be available on site so any and all recovered items could start a stabilization process immediately. Those doing such recovery are more knowledgable than I on this subject, be watching to see what is eventually done, if anything. Hope this wreck is an exception, to the ravages of man and time, and reveals much about the times she was sunk. jud
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