donrobinson

Mike: The filler block acts as a form for the planking then needs to be removed in order to plank the deck, Thanks for stopping by
 
David: You have it dead on David, it was balsa and I was very happy it was. It actually went fairly easy, had it been something like oak the whole ship may have ended in the trash  or on the shelf for a very long time.
 
OC: Thanks. I bought this set of chisels from Lee Valley some 30-35 years ago and up until now have rarely used them as I never took the time to sharpen them properly. I now know how to sharpen them, somewhat, and am enjoying using them now.
 
Mike: Thanks Mike. These kits are really full of surprises and innovations that makes them fun to build.
 
Bob: Sorry to hear that Bob, health is very important so look after that first. That is a great idea for the stern filler block and would have worked perfectly! A perfect example why, even if you are not going to build the Stefano, I still need you to keep watching and sharing your vast knowledge. Thanks and take care my friend.

Good Morning all, thanks for all the great comments, visits and likes. Since my last post there has not been too much activity in the shipyard but I have completed the planking on the port side. All went as expected and with no surprises. Unlike the first layer I did not bother to taper the planks resulting in having to use three stealers at the stern, these will be covered by copper plates so I was not that worried about this. I found trying to taper the .5 mm planks was just not worth the effort for something that was going to be either painted or covered with plates. So I guess I did do it the easier way in some ways . I could not resist putting a coat of wipe on poly to see how the beech would look, this will be sanded and act as my sealer for the paint and plates. I really like the looks of the beech and think it is defiantly worth considering for future builds.
 Not much to show but here it is: 

Putting in a stealer
 

Planking completed
 

Stern trimmed
 

Bow trimmed and coat of wipe on poly
 

Wipe on poly is still a little wet, if you look at the transom you can see some of the beech without any poly. Love how this wood looks

Mike: The filler block acts as a form for the planking then needs to be removed in order to plank the deck, Thanks for stopping by
 
David: You have it dead on David, it was balsa and I was very happy it was. It actually went fairly easy, had it been something like oak the whole ship may have ended in the trash  or on the shelf for a very long time.
 
OC: Thanks. I bought this set of chisels from Lee Valley some 30-35 years ago and up until now have rarely used them as I never took the time to sharpen them properly. I now know how to sharpen them, somewhat, and am enjoying using them now.
 
Mike: Thanks Mike. These kits are really full of surprises and innovations that makes them fun to build.
 
Bob: Sorry to hear that Bob, health is very important so look after that first. That is a great idea for the stern filler block and would have worked perfectly! A perfect example why, even if you are not going to build the Stefano, I still need you to keep watching and sharing your vast knowledge. Thanks and take care my friend.

Good morning all, thanks for the comments, likes and visits.
 Since my last post the hull planking has been completed. I stained and put a coat of wipe on poly on the starboard side to see how the beech would look, I'll let you be the judges. Next was removing the bulkhead extensions, cleaning up the freeboard(bulwarks), then carving out the stern area down to deck level. 
Here are the pictures:

Here is the beech stained and a coat of wipe on poly. I used a water based stain and only one coat of it. another coat may have improved the look or possibly a coat of sanding sealer. Overlooking the obvious glue stains you can see it does not take stain very evenly. My conclusion is that beech looks better without a stain, should be left clear or painted, which is coming up soon 
 

Removing the bulkhead extensions using a veneer saw. These came off quite easily and posed no problems, the veneer saw is defiantly the tool for this job.
 
About to start the removal of the stern filler block
 

Filler block removed, filler was later applied to floor and sides. The important part here is to maintain the curvature and rise of the deck, this simply done by laying a plank along the bulkhead tops and watching how it is lays. Much the same as you would do when fairing a hull.    
 

These last pictures are showing the cleaning of the freeboard, they will be eventually painted, and the fairing of the bulkhead tops. When fairing the bulkhead tops it is again important to maintain the curve and also to have a consistent height from the top of the bulkhead to the to of the freeboard.
 
That's all for now, next is the first layer of planking on the deck.
See You soon 

Doug: You will do just fine, it is not as hard as it looks a sharp chisel does help though. I'm looking forward to you catching up to me.
Ian: good to hear from you, I'm finally making a little progress and thanks for the kudos
Bob: Just a little nasty Bob, I do know when you get your kit you will make it look a lot easier and nicer!!!
H.H.: I 100% agree with you. The beech looked fine, I thought, before staining but with the stain it is not appealing what so ever. I will keep using it, if for anything, it"s bending capabilities. I am still very happy and surprised how it is so easily manipulated to shape, well worth keeping on the list of woods to use. 
 

Good morning all, thanks for the comments, likes and visits.
 Since my last post the hull planking has been completed. I stained and put a coat of wipe on poly on the starboard side to see how the beech would look, I'll let you be the judges. Next was removing the bulkhead extensions, cleaning up the freeboard(bulwarks), then carving out the stern area down to deck level. 
Here are the pictures:

Here is the beech stained and a coat of wipe on poly. I used a water based stain and only one coat of it. another coat may have improved the look or possibly a coat of sanding sealer. Overlooking the obvious glue stains you can see it does not take stain very evenly. My conclusion is that beech looks better without a stain, should be left clear or painted, which is coming up soon 
 

Removing the bulkhead extensions using a veneer saw. These came off quite easily and posed no problems, the veneer saw is defiantly the tool for this job.
 
About to start the removal of the stern filler block
 

Filler block removed, filler was later applied to floor and sides. The important part here is to maintain the curvature and rise of the deck, this simply done by laying a plank along the bulkhead tops and watching how it is lays. Much the same as you would do when fairing a hull.    
 

These last pictures are showing the cleaning of the freeboard, they will be eventually painted, and the fairing of the bulkhead tops. When fairing the bulkhead tops it is again important to maintain the curve and also to have a consistent height from the top of the bulkhead to the to of the freeboard.
 
That's all for now, next is the first layer of planking on the deck.
See You soon 

Good morning all, thanks for the comments, likes and visits.
 Since my last post the hull planking has been completed. I stained and put a coat of wipe on poly on the starboard side to see how the beech would look, I'll let you be the judges. Next was removing the bulkhead extensions, cleaning up the freeboard(bulwarks), then carving out the stern area down to deck level. 
Here are the pictures:

Here is the beech stained and a coat of wipe on poly. I used a water based stain and only one coat of it. another coat may have improved the look or possibly a coat of sanding sealer. Overlooking the obvious glue stains you can see it does not take stain very evenly. My conclusion is that beech looks better without a stain, should be left clear or painted, which is coming up soon 
 

Removing the bulkhead extensions using a veneer saw. These came off quite easily and posed no problems, the veneer saw is defiantly the tool for this job.
 
About to start the removal of the stern filler block
 

Filler block removed, filler was later applied to floor and sides. The important part here is to maintain the curvature and rise of the deck, this simply done by laying a plank along the bulkhead tops and watching how it is lays. Much the same as you would do when fairing a hull.    
 

These last pictures are showing the cleaning of the freeboard, they will be eventually painted, and the fairing of the bulkhead tops. When fairing the bulkhead tops it is again important to maintain the curve and also to have a consistent height from the top of the bulkhead to the to of the freeboard.
 
That's all for now, next is the first layer of planking on the deck.
See You soon 

Fine work Bob, those trucks really shine(look good)

Good morning all, thanks for the comments, likes and visits.
 Since my last post the hull planking has been completed. I stained and put a coat of wipe on poly on the starboard side to see how the beech would look, I'll let you be the judges. Next was removing the bulkhead extensions, cleaning up the freeboard(bulwarks), then carving out the stern area down to deck level. 
Here are the pictures:

Here is the beech stained and a coat of wipe on poly. I used a water based stain and only one coat of it. another coat may have improved the look or possibly a coat of sanding sealer. Overlooking the obvious glue stains you can see it does not take stain very evenly. My conclusion is that beech looks better without a stain, should be left clear or painted, which is coming up soon 
 

Removing the bulkhead extensions using a veneer saw. These came off quite easily and posed no problems, the veneer saw is defiantly the tool for this job.
 
About to start the removal of the stern filler block
 

Filler block removed, filler was later applied to floor and sides. The important part here is to maintain the curvature and rise of the deck, this simply done by laying a plank along the bulkhead tops and watching how it is lays. Much the same as you would do when fairing a hull.    
 

These last pictures are showing the cleaning of the freeboard, they will be eventually painted, and the fairing of the bulkhead tops. When fairing the bulkhead tops it is again important to maintain the curve and also to have a consistent height from the top of the bulkhead to the to of the freeboard.
 
That's all for now, next is the first layer of planking on the deck.
See You soon 

Good morning all, thanks for the comments, likes and visits.
 Since my last post the hull planking has been completed. I stained and put a coat of wipe on poly on the starboard side to see how the beech would look, I'll let you be the judges. Next was removing the bulkhead extensions, cleaning up the freeboard(bulwarks), then carving out the stern area down to deck level. 
Here are the pictures:

Here is the beech stained and a coat of wipe on poly. I used a water based stain and only one coat of it. another coat may have improved the look or possibly a coat of sanding sealer. Overlooking the obvious glue stains you can see it does not take stain very evenly. My conclusion is that beech looks better without a stain, should be left clear or painted, which is coming up soon 
 

Removing the bulkhead extensions using a veneer saw. These came off quite easily and posed no problems, the veneer saw is defiantly the tool for this job.
 
About to start the removal of the stern filler block
 

Filler block removed, filler was later applied to floor and sides. The important part here is to maintain the curvature and rise of the deck, this simply done by laying a plank along the bulkhead tops and watching how it is lays. Much the same as you would do when fairing a hull.    
 

These last pictures are showing the cleaning of the freeboard, they will be eventually painted, and the fairing of the bulkhead tops. When fairing the bulkhead tops it is again important to maintain the curve and also to have a consistent height from the top of the bulkhead to the to of the freeboard.
 
That's all for now, next is the first layer of planking on the deck.
See You soon 

To finish planking a hull is always a good feeling.

Good morning all, thanks for the comments, likes and visits.
 Since my last post the hull planking has been completed. I stained and put a coat of wipe on poly on the starboard side to see how the beech would look, I'll let you be the judges. Next was removing the bulkhead extensions, cleaning up the freeboard(bulwarks), then carving out the stern area down to deck level. 
Here are the pictures:

Here is the beech stained and a coat of wipe on poly. I used a water based stain and only one coat of it. another coat may have improved the look or possibly a coat of sanding sealer. Overlooking the obvious glue stains you can see it does not take stain very evenly. My conclusion is that beech looks better without a stain, should be left clear or painted, which is coming up soon 
 

Removing the bulkhead extensions using a veneer saw. These came off quite easily and posed no problems, the veneer saw is defiantly the tool for this job.
 
About to start the removal of the stern filler block
 

Filler block removed, filler was later applied to floor and sides. The important part here is to maintain the curvature and rise of the deck, this simply done by laying a plank along the bulkhead tops and watching how it is lays. Much the same as you would do when fairing a hull.    
 

These last pictures are showing the cleaning of the freeboard, they will be eventually painted, and the fairing of the bulkhead tops. When fairing the bulkhead tops it is again important to maintain the curve and also to have a consistent height from the top of the bulkhead to the to of the freeboard.
 
That's all for now, next is the first layer of planking on the deck.
See You soon 

Doug: You will do just fine, it is not as hard as it looks a sharp chisel does help though. I'm looking forward to you catching up to me.
Ian: good to hear from you, I'm finally making a little progress and thanks for the kudos
Bob: Just a little nasty Bob, I do know when you get your kit you will make it look a lot easier and nicer!!!
H.H.: I 100% agree with you. The beech looked fine, I thought, before staining but with the stain it is not appealing what so ever. I will keep using it, if for anything, it"s bending capabilities. I am still very happy and surprised how it is so easily manipulated to shape, well worth keeping on the list of woods to use. 
 

Thanks John, his eyes did light up when he first seen it

Hello Lawrence, here is a picture of the pens I used. I bought these at Michaels but I'm sure they are availible at any hobby store. It does not say what type of paint is used in the pens, they are not too expensive and really do a good job
 

Good morning all, thanks for the comments, likes and visits.
 Since my last post the hull planking has been completed. I stained and put a coat of wipe on poly on the starboard side to see how the beech would look, I'll let you be the judges. Next was removing the bulkhead extensions, cleaning up the freeboard(bulwarks), then carving out the stern area down to deck level. 
Here are the pictures:

Here is the beech stained and a coat of wipe on poly. I used a water based stain and only one coat of it. another coat may have improved the look or possibly a coat of sanding sealer. Overlooking the obvious glue stains you can see it does not take stain very evenly. My conclusion is that beech looks better without a stain, should be left clear or painted, which is coming up soon 
 

Removing the bulkhead extensions using a veneer saw. These came off quite easily and posed no problems, the veneer saw is defiantly the tool for this job.
 
About to start the removal of the stern filler block
 

Filler block removed, filler was later applied to floor and sides. The important part here is to maintain the curvature and rise of the deck, this simply done by laying a plank along the bulkhead tops and watching how it is lays. Much the same as you would do when fairing a hull.    
 

These last pictures are showing the cleaning of the freeboard, they will be eventually painted, and the fairing of the bulkhead tops. When fairing the bulkhead tops it is again important to maintain the curve and also to have a consistent height from the top of the bulkhead to the to of the freeboard.
 
That's all for now, next is the first layer of planking on the deck.
See You soon 

Once you get going with the planking Mike you will be fine, it may seem strange at first but it really does work. The three MarisStella hulls I have planked so far have all been like this and I have been happy with the results. 
A couple of things to keep in mind are:
Be precise with the angles you cut at the bow
Leave the planks a little long at the stern, not so long that they are past the stern post and snag on something then break off 
If you need to bend a plank a little over bending is better than underbending
And the one I still have problems with is to resist the urge to trim the planks at the bow and stern until planking is completed. It really does not matter if they are a little long or short as long as they are all equal and you have a nice uniform line of planks

This site is acting weird today, But it is good to see you back working and having some fun doing it

Fine work Bob, those trucks really shine(look good)

Using .5 x 6 mm strips line the inside of the opening keeping the front edge of the strips flush with the front  edge of the bulkhead. Now install the 1'5 x 3 mm strips recessed 1.5 mm, to allow for the thickness of the door, as seen in P2, thus forming the door stop. The backside of the bulkhead can be trimmed or framed in with 1.5 mm stock, your choice. Next step is to apply the exterior planking, .5 x 6 mm. to the front of the bulkhead, this is installed  so that it is flush with the edges of the door opening.
 The plans, which are accurate, are showing the progression of the build so what might seem like the end of a strip is actually a cross section. Where  the red arrows are pointing there is no veneer, or filler exposed  it is showing the exterior planking and it's thickness, giving you a 3d view of the layers involved in this particular part of the build.

Hi Mike , the stand, case and ship look wonderful. I have followed your build from the beginning always looking forward to seeing the next update and Joel's comments. He was an amazing man, always there willing to share his skills and experiences with you and others. His guidance and constant prodding resulted in you now having a masterpiece in your home. I am sure he is now looking down with one huge smile on his face. Beautiful dedication, Mike  

Good morning all, thanks for the comments, likes and visits.
 Since my last post the hull planking has been completed. I stained and put a coat of wipe on poly on the starboard side to see how the beech would look, I'll let you be the judges. Next was removing the bulkhead extensions, cleaning up the freeboard(bulwarks), then carving out the stern area down to deck level. 
Here are the pictures:

Here is the beech stained and a coat of wipe on poly. I used a water based stain and only one coat of it. another coat may have improved the look or possibly a coat of sanding sealer. Overlooking the obvious glue stains you can see it does not take stain very evenly. My conclusion is that beech looks better without a stain, should be left clear or painted, which is coming up soon 
 

Removing the bulkhead extensions using a veneer saw. These came off quite easily and posed no problems, the veneer saw is defiantly the tool for this job.
 
About to start the removal of the stern filler block
 

Filler block removed, filler was later applied to floor and sides. The important part here is to maintain the curvature and rise of the deck, this simply done by laying a plank along the bulkhead tops and watching how it is lays. Much the same as you would do when fairing a hull.    
 

These last pictures are showing the cleaning of the freeboard, they will be eventually painted, and the fairing of the bulkhead tops. When fairing the bulkhead tops it is again important to maintain the curve and also to have a consistent height from the top of the bulkhead to the to of the freeboard.
 
That's all for now, next is the first layer of planking on the deck.
See You soon 

Good morning all, thanks for the comments, likes and visits.
 Since my last post the hull planking has been completed. I stained and put a coat of wipe on poly on the starboard side to see how the beech would look, I'll let you be the judges. Next was removing the bulkhead extensions, cleaning up the freeboard(bulwarks), then carving out the stern area down to deck level. 
Here are the pictures:

Here is the beech stained and a coat of wipe on poly. I used a water based stain and only one coat of it. another coat may have improved the look or possibly a coat of sanding sealer. Overlooking the obvious glue stains you can see it does not take stain very evenly. My conclusion is that beech looks better without a stain, should be left clear or painted, which is coming up soon 
 

Removing the bulkhead extensions using a veneer saw. These came off quite easily and posed no problems, the veneer saw is defiantly the tool for this job.
 
About to start the removal of the stern filler block
 

Filler block removed, filler was later applied to floor and sides. The important part here is to maintain the curvature and rise of the deck, this simply done by laying a plank along the bulkhead tops and watching how it is lays. Much the same as you would do when fairing a hull.    
 

These last pictures are showing the cleaning of the freeboard, they will be eventually painted, and the fairing of the bulkhead tops. When fairing the bulkhead tops it is again important to maintain the curve and also to have a consistent height from the top of the bulkhead to the to of the freeboard.
 
That's all for now, next is the first layer of planking on the deck.
See You soon 

Good Morning all, thanks for all the great comments, visits and likes. Since my last post there has not been too much activity in the shipyard but I have completed the planking on the port side. All went as expected and with no surprises. Unlike the first layer I did not bother to taper the planks resulting in having to use three stealers at the stern, these will be covered by copper plates so I was not that worried about this. I found trying to taper the .5 mm planks was just not worth the effort for something that was going to be either painted or covered with plates. So I guess I did do it the easier way in some ways . I could not resist putting a coat of wipe on poly to see how the beech would look, this will be sanded and act as my sealer for the paint and plates. I really like the looks of the beech and think it is defiantly worth considering for future builds.
 Not much to show but here it is: 

Putting in a stealer
 

Planking completed
 

Stern trimmed
 

Bow trimmed and coat of wipe on poly
 

Wipe on poly is still a little wet, if you look at the transom you can see some of the beech without any poly. Love how this wood looks

Good morning all, thanks for the comments, likes and visits.
 Since my last post the hull planking has been completed. I stained and put a coat of wipe on poly on the starboard side to see how the beech would look, I'll let you be the judges. Next was removing the bulkhead extensions, cleaning up the freeboard(bulwarks), then carving out the stern area down to deck level. 
Here are the pictures:

Here is the beech stained and a coat of wipe on poly. I used a water based stain and only one coat of it. another coat may have improved the look or possibly a coat of sanding sealer. Overlooking the obvious glue stains you can see it does not take stain very evenly. My conclusion is that beech looks better without a stain, should be left clear or painted, which is coming up soon 
 

Removing the bulkhead extensions using a veneer saw. These came off quite easily and posed no problems, the veneer saw is defiantly the tool for this job.
 
About to start the removal of the stern filler block
 

Filler block removed, filler was later applied to floor and sides. The important part here is to maintain the curvature and rise of the deck, this simply done by laying a plank along the bulkhead tops and watching how it is lays. Much the same as you would do when fairing a hull.    
 

These last pictures are showing the cleaning of the freeboard, they will be eventually painted, and the fairing of the bulkhead tops. When fairing the bulkhead tops it is again important to maintain the curve and also to have a consistent height from the top of the bulkhead to the to of the freeboard.
 
That's all for now, next is the first layer of planking on the deck.
See You soon