rafterrat_2005

Chuck thank you for the downloads, they come in handy in many different ways.

Download PDF
 
14frolich_style_ropewalk.pdf

By boarding I mean the line that is carved for the planking between the edge of the the keel to the bulkhead.
Does this make since?

How does one figure boarding on plank on bulkhead when starting a build?

Is there a better more clear scale drawings for all of her sails? The last plan, Mamoli 1:90 scale, can't there be better, prints or something that I can use so I can make them. I'm either going to rig her in full sail or not.

G'day Blackie, I have been keeping an eye on your build, looks great, if I can do half as well as yours, I'd be very happy.
 
Slow progress on the Harvey due to work and other commitments, here's a look at where I am so far, not much to show, but, getting there!!!
 

 

Oh my gosh, sweet work! What detail!!!!! I will be following this build very close.

Oh my gosh, sweet work! What detail!!!!! I will be following this build very close.

I have a couple work tables "desks" that were FREE and each one has it's own purpose.
 The one that has a vacuum canister is my vacuum cleaner dust collector that was also FREE.

These are slot and tab models.  I got the War Junk and have built the Turtle Ship from some friends who live in the Orient.  They are not bad kits and are quite easy to build in an evening.  The laser cutting and fit is great and they take paint and stain well. 

Well the main point is that this could serve as a great starting point for a kit bash. I don't think actual plans of the treasure ships exist, or written details beyond a certain generality. So the builder can have a degree of artistic license with their kit bash.
 
It won't appeal to the purist of course, but they have the realms of scratch-building to satisfy their desires.
 
Wooden dowels for the masts, scratch built sails, reworked door/window frames, 0.5mm wood planks on the hull and deck, some false guns, and some new rigging rope and you could have a relatively inexpensive ship that is exotic, if only loosely historic, won't take up much room etc.
 
It's tempting to build that kit, as well as one of the korean turtle ships.

Thanks for all the input guys.
 
I found the one that I'm gonna try first - Easy Off Oven Cleaner.  That's the one that I was remembering.  It's supposed to work because of the ammonia.  All references point to:  spray, brush, and clean with warm soapy water.
 
If that's doesn't work, I'm gonna try the Purple Power.
 
My concern about the Paint Remover Gel is damage to the plastic.  Would be no question if it was wood, I've done that with furniture.

Planning for the canon cuts has been an eye opener, someone on here once said he had a few on another contructo kit but different ship, that hit the ribs. My reply was that manufactures go to great lengths to ensure the kits are corectly lined up and this should not really happen,,,, whoops sorry I hold my hands up, they don't, or at least on this model they didnt. I have used a vernier guage and measured every canon port on the plans (twice) transfering to my hull and mine strike 8 ribs,, the first one you can see I have cut also hit a rib, yes the very first one. Please if your building this kit check before hand because the lower canons although inconvenient is not a real problem, just shave the ribs away but what would be a huge problem is the canons on the top deck which can not afford to hit the ribs, these can be seen from behind and would ruin the model. see picture, look at the rib in the distance behind the hatch, if you followed the plan you would strike this and worse its neighbouring rib also.
 
Whist im ranting let me take the time to whine about the figurehead casting. I was happy with mine at first I then researched the colour scheme and came accross the Caldercraft version ( ok expensive kit ) but the figurehead is beautifully made / cast. these are available to purchase and think is a no brainer.
 
Oh rant over. The picture of the hull has the top row of hatches ommited, honestly I forgot to place them on prior to the picture but you may be able to pick out the marked positions.
 
next post should be all cut holes, I am skipping and returning to previous jobs just to take the repetitiveness out of the work.
 
thanks for looking.

Grant what an amazing job!! I to am building the same kit and scale, is there a trick in running the blocks to the yards? I wood have to say the blocks YOU made are out of this world!!!

Limited time for the shipyard today due to social duties, but did manage to make about 250 3/16" (4.75mm) blocks.
 
I decided not to re-do the stock blanks and persevered with those I had already made.  I still think the grooves were all cut a little too deep, and this has meant more "rejects" due to the side walls of the sheaves breaking off.  Nevertheless, I think there will be sufficient salvageable to use.  I also tried to get the sheave holes close to the ends of the blocks as suggested by Chuck, though I think there's room to go further out still.  It's only when seeing them under the camera's macro lens that you can see the room there is to move.  Working on the drill press, even with the Optivisors on, it seemed to me that I was at the limit - but maybe not! 
 
Anyway, here's a couple of pics of today's production run.  Not quite up to Chuck's standard, but still way better than kit provided stuff.
 

 

 
And here's a couple of yesterday's 1/4" blocks for size comparison (1/4" on the left, 3/16" on the right):
 

 
Next weekend I'll be trying my hand at 5/32" (4mm) and 1/8 (3mm) as these are the most common size for my Victory.
 
And yes Chuck, I will be having a go at some doubles and triples further down the track! 

I am not sure this will help, but there is a video I made about seizing or whipping. As part of that I show how I strop a line to blocks and then apply the seizing.

 
Of course, there is also the use of wire for stropping. It all depends on the application.

Try this one:

Have you tried Model Masters?
 I have been thinking about trying a Battle Ship of a few my father was on after the 2nd WW. Except I have 2 other builds to do before something else. Kida tribute to my father since he wont be here much longer.

Have you tried Model Masters?
 I have been thinking about trying a Battle Ship of a few my father was on after the 2nd WW. Except I have 2 other builds to do before something else. Kida tribute to my father since he wont be here much longer.

This an honor I don't deserve, but let me begin with a few highlights of my log. Again for more details go to my web site.

The kit contains the various laser cut parts such as the bulkheads and keel pieces. The first step (besides learning what this is all about and sorting out the numerous parts) is to assemble the basic hull. Nothing new, and as many of you know this is a rather critical step because any misalignment will cause grief and lots of extra work later on.

The pictures that follow below have some comments because it gets confusing if I were to just show all the pictures I have taken thus far without a label. I may also have to split this part up into a few sections and point out some pitfalls I encountered (as well as some short cuts that I think will help). I should also add here that I started with the cookbook published by a Mr. Hunt. It really helped me in the beginning, but I soon found out that there are better ways to do some of his 'instructions'.

Ohh.... I think I get it... (BTW... Canada)
 
Have you ever tried Maple Syrup on Ice Cream?
 
Andy

WOW!!!!!! How do you bend the parts w/o messing them up.
   If I ever thought about doing a project lick this my wife would probably would smack me in the head and call me 'STUPID'. I would have to get some fairies to do the work. I like challenges but this I would NOT do. ------------------Can not wait until it is done-------------------------------

Do you use one of those head pieces that have a light and a magnified glasses on it. I think I wood go blind looking at those tiny pieces. (Shoot the are so small those little fairies or knomes have those glasses too). What kind of glue do you use on these brass pieces that won't leave fog traces?
 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!With these types of models a man that has nervous problems these are not recommended!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

OMG!!! Talking about tiny pieces, if it takes that much care, I would hate to be the one that makes all the pieces.

Few days are over and I am back with some update.
I glued all rest frames onto the keel and fixed them by "false decks"
(named as connecting sheets in assembling manual).