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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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Glad you're aboard, Mark -
I agree with you, Mike.
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I can't do the Bismarck in 1:48, but I can do this next: Thanks to all for following this thread, for your "likes" and kind comments. It was much appreciated.
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Having just completed the 1:48 scale Fairey Swordfish by Tamiya, thought I would stay with a naval aviation theme for my next build, the 1:32 Arado AR 196-B by Revell Germany. The model kit as produced recreates the prototype version of the Arado from the late 1930's. I would have liked to build it as an upgraded AR 196-A3, but I could not find any suitable production decal markings for it anywhere on the web. I just don't have time this go-round to scratch all those details so I will settle for building the kit as it is straight from the box. Maybe at another time someone will have produced the decals I want and I will do this model again as a Bismarck recce plane which is what I really wanted to do. Here are a few photos of the box and the parts inside the box (approx 190 of them). I am allotting myself 2 weeks to finish this project which seems to be a reasonable amount of time provided I don't run into unforeseen fit issues. Without further adieu, I will get started on the model.
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Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale
CDW replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Great scratch building tips right there! -
Thanks OC!
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Thanks Denis! I got all my ordnance installed and all the decals are on. I will give it a dull coat tonight, then take some photos after that. This one is history. On to the next project. Need to decide what it will be...decisions, decisions.
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Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale
CDW replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Thanks! -
Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale
CDW replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Have you run across anyone who is making/selling resin engine kits? In the late 90's, early 2000's, there were several cottage industry people making really nice race engine replicas. Now, I have not seen any around. They were not cheap back then, but they were very nicely done and would give a whole lot of extra to any scale racing model. -
Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale
CDW replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Wow, some great Henry J pics! For a no-graphics/no-decals car, that 6th picture down from the top is a great looking Henry J gasser, for sure. For a name, got to love the Mr. Nasty gasser. His flames are sub par, but I like the old school look of that one, too. -
I have never used Life Color paints, so cannot make any comments on the suitability of either of the two thinners with that paint.
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Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale
CDW replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
The Anglia was a popular gasser body style. One named Underdog was a local favorite for me. He ran a straight six and that thing was so darned consistent, he took home trophy after trophy almost every weekend. An excellent driver. -
Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale
CDW replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Very interesting project JCT. I remember building the model long ago, but I don't remember ever seeing an actual Henry J at the strip, or on the street for that matter. I guess they were not a prolific car back then. -
Thanks JCT. Thinned india ink would work just fine provided you first put down a good gloss clear coat. That's a must.
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Here, I have applied a gloss clear coat over the entire model in preparation for some Tamiya panel line shading solution, brown and gray. First the brown panel line solution is applied with any excess swabbed away with q-tips. Then the light gray wash goes down with the same q-tip treatment. Last, a light dry brushing with Vallejo white pigment powder over the model.
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You mean to tell me all this is nothing more than a made for TV crap-fest? 😮
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As a thinner for Tamiya paints as well as the Mr Hobby/Mr Color line of paints, you will not find a finer thinner than this: https://spraygunner.com/gsi-creos-mr-color-leveling-thinner/ It's fabulous. Mix 50-50 with the paint. As an alternative, use common rubbing alcohol (60% alcohol or higher) as a thinner. Works well with Tamiya paints and I use it all the time for a quick drying time. Mix 50-50. Cheap and easy to find.
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You did a great job on the USS England, Jack. How did you like the Gator Grip glue for your photo etch? I think it makes the task lots easier to align and comes out much neater and cleaner.
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Mine is rather low on looks, but I save a ton on batteries.
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Thanks for the comments, Richmond. If you go to Flory Models on Youtube, you can see tons of good examples of dry brushing techniques from Flory. He's a great modeler. Tamiya and Mr Hobby actually make panel line washes. They are much different than the Flory clay pigment washes. To be honest, they are little more than the "old school" washes we used long ago from Turpentine (or Turpenoid) with a dash of artist oil paint of your choice. I believe they have mixed in some naptha to help it dry faster. The down side to the old school wash of turpenoid and artist oil was a slow drying time. Also you have to take some extra care with that type of wash as it (turpentine) will soften the underlying paint.
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Thanks Patrick Swordfish now has legs. Rigging is finished. More fiddly bits to add tomorrow. Decals soon.
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Thanks Denis. Tamiya provides a 1:1 drawing of the finished airplane and camo scheme in the kit. I photo copy the drawing, then cut it apart to create my painting masks. Makes it quick and easy to get the almost identical paint/camo scheme as is shown on the plans. This plane did have some tricky masking that had to be done on small areas in various places.
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Thanks Lou. Right now, the flying wires (photo etched) are taking me a little longer than I anticipated. Tamiya provides a little punch tool on the photo etch fret for pre opening the holes in the wings and fuselage where the photo etch wires will attach (slide in fit). The tool doesn't actually give quite enough of an opening, resulting in fiddling around later trying to get the wires to fit. It wouldn't be a problem if I had anticipated it ahead of time, but I didn't. So far, that's my only little hang-up with this kit. But all things considered, flying wires from ez line or similar thread is not a quick proposition either. But I do feel a little more comfortable with thread than I do the photo etch though. This is my first biplane rigged with photo etch flying wires.
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