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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. CDW
    Thanks much for all your kind comments. The flaws are there, it's just not show quality. Looks pretty decent but leaves a bitter taste in my mouth because I hate imperfection in my own work. Not that perfection could ever be achieved 100% but it's still what we shoot for, perfection, symmetry, and fully functional (to the degree a model will allow). But all this goes back to the fact it takes me always at least two kits of each thing I build to get it right. At least two. I saw another set of these decals for sale but didn't buy them. I thought the shipping price was too high. Probably should have bought them anyway, because they won't be easy to find. The kit is not hard to find, but the decals...oh man. That different look from different angles is a function of the pearl white and clear reflecting the colors of the decals. The model just wouldn't be the same without the decals. The kit ones are pure dog pile. Not fit for use.
  2. CDW
    Final Finished Photos of the Ala-Kart
  3. CDW
    I realized that none of my photos included anything of the powerplant...the 241 cubic inch, fuel injected Hemi. To add to posterity, here are my only photos of the engine compartment. I decided early on that fit issues with this model's body parts would prohibit me from leaving the hood as a removable unit. I decided to finish/model her with the hood closed and instead, show off the distinctive, colorful graphics and body paint. Another option would have been to possibly model it with the sides of the hood removed and leave just the top section. However, I have never seen the actual Ala-Kart displayed this way. Maybe if I ever decide to do another build of the same model, I'll go full monty on the engine and figure out a way to correct the fit issues. A competition build would require I do that so this one will be my shelf queen instead.
  4. CDW
    Yes, the very early Revell kits had pre painted copper hulls below the waterline. Darn good paint, too. It held up just fine after all these years in the box. Box is in tatters, but box art still visible. Will take the kits out for some pictures when I can get around to it. One time years ago, a fellow sent me a ton of great information and line drawings of the Kearsarge. I have looked and looked for that package he sent but cannot find it yet. It had everything I needed to make corrections.
  5. CDW
    Thanks for the kind words, Jonathan. One of these days, I'm going to drag out my CSS Alabama and USS Kearsarge kits from Revell and build them. I only hope I can do half as good a job on them as you've done on your CSS Alabama. My Kearsarge kit is so old, it's the one that came with the pre-painted copper clad hull back in those days. The kit box is practically falling apart. I've been thinking about buying the Cottage Industries update sets for both models, along with the wooden decks that are available nowadays.
  6. CDW
    To be honest, I end up giving a lot of finished models away. My joy is in building them.
  7. CDW
    These will be the last dry fit pictures I will take. The model should be finished either tomorrow or Tuesday. Like many AMT, Revell, Monogram, and other early hot rod and stock models from years past, this kit has a few fit issues that are disappointing in the end. However, when you consider the low cost of the models to begin with along with the age of the tooling, it's understandable. Long ago, I always knew to buy at least 2 of any model I really wanted to be show quality. The first had to be built to learn the flaws inherent in it, and the second kit to correct the problems found with the first build.
  8. CDW
    Unless you're doing paid, commissioned work, the only one you need to please is yourself. That's why I have no desire to do paid, commissioned work. 😎 Then this great hobby of ours (that we love) might be a chore, not a joy.
  9. CDW
    The Molotow is unlike any other chrome silver marker out there, I promise you that. It's the only one that actually looks like the chrome on the parts trees, not like silver paint. But hey, it's one of those things that's a buggaboo for me. Can't stand seeing touched up silver chrome parts. I would rather strip the chrome altogether and repaint everything with Alclad II chrome silver rather than have mismatched patched together chrome parts. I know, I know...it's OCD, and I have it bad.
  10. CDW
    Have you tried contact Stevens International for the parts trees? Stevens is the USA distributor for Trumpeter. it's unlikely the Chinese will deal directly with you as Stevens likely has a contract with them as the sole USA distributor. I would definitely contact Stevens for the parts you want. it may take a while, but they may have them. https://www.stevenshobby.com
  11. CDW
    Gun directors and searchlights look excellent.
  12. CDW
    Looks sweet! Love the WW2 British ships.
  13. CDW
    Here is something that any of you who build plastic models that include chrome plated parts, a product you'll be glad to have in your supplies. I read where someone once said "they had never found any silver that could match chrome plating". While I agree a perfect match probably does not exist in reality, there is something that will cover those scratches and little spots where you've trimmed the plated parts from their sprue. An the best part is, it looks so much like chrome plating, the average person will never notice it's been touched up unless they have been told to examine it with a magnifying glass. It's that good. It's called a Molotow Chrome Pen. Comes in various tip size pens, very convenient to make pin point spot repairs or in larger tip sizes, larger areas. You use it like a Sharpie Marker, just be sure to give it a good shake before each use. Here in these first two photos, you cab see where I trimmed the chrome at the front suspension spring locating points. The chrome plating has been scratched off where the parts were attached to sprue. The third photo is how they look after touchup with the Molotow pen. An invisible patch that will not be noticed by those who see your models. The most "chrome-looking" paint I have ever seen.
  14. CDW
    Decal work is done now. All clear top coats are finished. Chassis assembly is 90% done with some details remaining. Lots of small trim work to be done on the body and bed, adding headlights, grill, tail lights, nerf bars, and bed rails/fuel tank cap. Engine and transmission have been assembled and painted but needs to be installed along with the headers, firewall, radiator, and hoses. Interior work needs finishing. Of course, we still are without wheels and tires. More to come.
  15. CDW
    I had lots of problems with both issues. If I had it to do over again, I would change the rigging so the main derrick is in a raised position rather than lowered. Otherwise, I just positioned the boom in a fixed position, a location between rigging lines as I assume the way they used it was to raise and lower it as needed between rigging as there is no way the boom can swing between all those lines. As for the rigging interfering with the ship's boats (or vice versa), I repositioned my rigging location points several times to find something that would work without interference. It's frustrating, I know.
  16. CDW
    Here is a picture of it Greg. Not sure where you might source it on your side of the planet, but I guess it wouldn't be hard to find. Maybe BNA Modelworld has it. Set 1 comes with the smallest diameter tubes, set 2 just a little larger. Honestly, the tubes in set 1 are so small (inside diameter), I would advise set 2 as the most practical to use. The photo is in high definition, so you should be able to magnify it to see the details.
  17. CDW
    The smallest brass tubing I have found is from Trumpeter. Not many shops carry it, you'll just have to do a google search to find a shop of your choosing who has it. Some of it is so small, you can't even pass ez line thread through it, so it can't be out of scale. Good luck with your endeavor, and oh, by the way, don't worry about highjacking my thread. I didn't feel you highjacked it at all. To the contrary, I enjoyed your photos and conversation. You're welcome back anytime. Happy modeling
  18. CDW
    The next time I build and rig a model the size of Mikasa, I am going to use the same technique to seize the rigging lines that I use for seizing the rigging of my WW1 model airplanes. I cut off a tiny piece of micro brass tubing, run the rigging line through it, then loop it back through the tubing to seize it (with a tiny dab of super glue). Knots wouldn't be appropriate for the rigging on ships from this period, or at least that's my best guess. Here is a photograph of an Albatros biplane where I've seized the rigging using micro tubing:
  19. CDW
  20. CDW
    It most certainly would cause an imbalance. However, I cannot decal the hood until the top coat cures, and the hood decals run over onto the nose piece, so it all must be done at one time. Will be working on that tomorrow after the paint has plenty of time to fully harden. Remember, I had to rework the hood because I didn't shoot enough pearl white on it to match the other parts. Fixed that.
  21. CDW
    Just about everything but taking a bath could include a long sleeve shirt and tie back then.
  22. CDW
  23. CDW
    Laid down a couple of good coats of urethane clear (w/hardener) over my body parts with decals, as well as the refinished hood. Came out great, but it's hands-off for at least another 24 hours until it cures. Got a little worried after the first coat over the decals, as it looked like tiny little fish eye pock marks over some of the decals. Thought maybe the decals had a bad reaction to the clear. But I realized when I applied the second (and last) coat, I needed to lay it down heavy and it came out smooth as glass. The clear urethane had no tendency to run and could take a heavy coat. Really nice paint combo, the acrylic color under the urethane clear. I was a little skeptical at first but it worked beautifully well I think. The thing you have to remember with acrylics, particularly the metallics and pearls, there is little to no chance to fix a problem area because acrylic can't be sanded. If you try to sand it, it just rolls up and makes a mess. If it's bad, the best bet is to strip it down and do it over again. I'll get some pictures later when it's safe to handle.
  24. CDW
    My distributor carries a line of solvent based paints very similar to the Gravity line, called Splash. Lots and lots of auto-based colors. I ordered some last night. I have a lot of car models that need to be finished. Yes, the running boards have decals.
  25. CDW
    Using aluminum foil to help direct the paint into a bottle is a great idea. Will have to try that. The whole reason I wanted to try the Createx Wicked line of acrylic paints (top coated with a solvent based clear coat) was because of the vast array of colors they offer at a low cost with the convenience of acrylic. As an added bonus, a local vendor is a distributor.

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