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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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Thanks Mark -
My next project is going to be this 1:24 scale Italeri Ferrari 250 GT California kit. The Italeri kit is rather long in the tooth and has been around for quite some time, though they are rare to find anymore. Don't know when the last time they were produced, but I've owned my copies for more than 10 years and it had been at least 10 years since they were produced back then. So probably the kit is more than 20 years old. The kit pictured above it is the very well detailed Fujimi Ferrari Daytona Speciale, a more modern kit though it's out of production as well to the best of my knowledge. I am going to use the Fujimi kit to add better detail to the Italeri kit. The engine, carbs, and brake systems are light years better than Italeri ones. When I bought the Fujimi kit many years ago, I received it with a front windshield that was cracked in half, and the windshield frame molded to the car body was crushed/cracked. I decided back then this would be a donor kit. Will go through a bunch of changes to accurize the Italeri kit using the Fujimi kit and aftermarket items in the process. I plan to finish it in a very smooth and glossy black lacquer paint job. we shall see how it goes, and keeping my fingers crossed for no major snafu's along the way. I may try my hand at recreating a real leather upholstery.
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Using that underbrush to hide the sink marks was a brilliant idea. Adds some realism that wouldn't have been there otherwise.
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That is one sharp looking train model, Denis. You have really done her justice. Seeing it all come together, it's very impressive indeed. Where are you going to display it?
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Thanks Denis, much appreciated.
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Thanks OC. I have a customer who wants to buy it. Will probably let it go, I need the space more than the model. Had my fun, now this will finance 'future model acquisition and building operations'. 😄
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Oh, I should mention...annealing will cause your brass to lose it's shine, so maybe that's something to consider.
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You probably know this already, but for the benefit of those reading who have not done a lot of photo etch work, first anneal the brass to be rolled by heating it over a lit candle, then allow it to cool slowly by air. Now it will be soft and malleable easily holding any shape you put to it and not 'springing' back. If after achieving your desired shape you wish to harden the piece, heat it again over a candle then quickly immerse it in water. It will again have it's hardness. Annealing makes rolling photo etch so much easier. Night and day difference. Try it on some scrap first to get the feel for it. it's really easy to do.
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What a fortuitous find! Indeed, this must be your lucky day. Well deserved with all that beautiful work you've been doing on this build. I am happy for you.
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If there ever was a QFT, it's this one. With Pontos sets, it is absolutely essential to have those plan PDF photos in front of you and magnified to see what the heck is going on. As for any kind of 'order of assembly', you just have to figure it out on your own. Can't believe how many times I've folded a piece in the wrong direction and broke it. As for the expensive rolling tool, try this one. It does the job and is half the price. By the way, this is a great online hobby shop to do business with. Super customer service. https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Tools/SMS00000014/product.php?gclid=Cj0KCQjwxYLoBRCxARIsAEf16-u1-zyc7z1wkju3Tud3wSOYsVARTJsbluvBKoaQB6slCqk0I-_HLnMaAvJdEALw_wcB
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For reducing epoxy resin, I use denatured alcohol.
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I've done it successfully many times in the past using epoxy resin. Not sure of any reason a polyester resin would not also serve the purpose of sealing the hull.
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I once read that bad luck was in part responsible for the CSS Alabama's loss in the battle with the USS Kearsarge. An unexploded round was found to have lodged between the rudder and hull of the Kearsarge that may have sunk her had it detonated as it should have.
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I am definitely aboard for this. A very unusual and interesting project. Civil War subjects are fascinating to me, I guess because so many of my long past relatives fought in that terrible conflict.
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- what is it
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Welcome back to modeling. 50-ish is a great time to start modeling again. More free time and greater patience. Hope you have a wonderful time doing it!
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The side windows are posed for photos. Must file the edges a bit for a good fit, then touch up some of the red inside the window frames with flat back before cementing in place. A few other odd and ends needed to finish this one up.
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NAPA Genuine Auto Parts stores that have a paint department can mix and fill any color you want to choose from (their color chip book) into a spray paint can. The cost is reasonable as well. Sometimes when you're trying to match a color, take a sample with you and give them a try.
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Yep, Tamiya is great, use it all the time myself as well. If you don't mind a little longer drying time and want a smoother finish such as in a gloss finish, reduce Tamiya acrylics with Mr Color Leveling Reducer. Works wonders. But for my day-to-day painting which most often are flats, I use alcohol to reduce as well. The only down side to Tamiya acrylics are their lower color selection. I don't mind mixing their paints to get the colors I need, but I need to make a laminated card of some kind to write down the formulas.
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I just watched the bikes on YouTube. Incredible.
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Now the 1,000' change from 1320', I was totally unaware. That makes the E.T.'s a whole different story, although as you said, there was only .1 second between the Funny Cars and Top Fuel at that same meet. Locally at one track I've attended, they changed it from 1320' to 660'. I understand the reason why, but it still left me feelings rather sad to see this change. Additionally, I could not believe how fast the "rice-burners" have become...wow, is all I can say.
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