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CDW
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Hang in there OC. We are all pulling for you. Sometimes, just when it seems like we're going through our darkest hours, good things happen that chases the blues away. Here's a little something to give you a good laugh... -
Thanks Denis. The nuance of dark blue vs black is something my camera and lighting just can't pick up. You can see by eye it's a dark blue, but with the camera, it just looks black.
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Using some scrap pieces of PE, I'll bet you can quickly make a couple of replacement posts for those. Lots of times, there are "sprue" pieces left over that are the correct/close to correct width you need. And on the bright side, can you imagine having to do all this photo etch from scratch? There are actually unicorn modelers who do this. I should add...what you've done tonight looks great!
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I'm always sad to see hobby businesses close, but you seem to be doing this closing for all the right reasons. Enjoy and cherish the moments you have to spend with your children, they are irreplaceable. You can always start another business at another more opportune time if you wish.
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You are going to be forced to sand this a little. I don't know any way around it. Get some scrap styrene plastic and play around with your air pressure and paint viscosity to find the sweet spot. This definitely was drying from your airbrush before it hit the model.
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Generally, a rough finish as you described is a result of the paint drying too fast just as you said, or also can happen when holding the airbrush too far away from the surface being painted. I hate using new paints on a good model. Always test on a practice piece first. I've learned this lesson the hard way.
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If I'm using AK paints, I use Mr. Color leveling thinner 400 and it works fine. Never used Mission Models paints before. What reducer did you use? I don't know a thing about Badger Stynorez primer, never even heard of it before now.
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??? Is this condition a result of the AK products you used. What exactly did you apply to the hull to leave it so rough?
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Bugatti T.50 by CDW - Heller - 1:24 Scale - PLASTIC
CDW replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Thanks for the link, Jo. Would have loved to have been there to see that model show in person. (Seeing Notre Dame all burned like that is so sad.) -
Concurrently with my Ferrari GT California Spyder build, I'll be building this 1:24 Bugatti T.50. If you follow this thread, don't plan to watch a classic build of one of the early, most exotic cars ever built. Instead, I want to customize it and build something unusual. Like maybe a low slung, street rod Bugatti. Will be playing it by ear. No definite direction to go with this one yet, but I have something in mind. Double-trouble.
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Happy Father's Day to all the Dads at MSW. Hope you had a great one! Once my primer was finished, I got on the rest of the top coats. The base is 3 coats of a deep, dark blue lacquer. On top of that are 2 coats of urethane clear with a hardener. I believe once the model has all it's chrome attached and is assembled, it will really pop with this color. The photos almost make it look black, very glossy.
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That's quite a haul you got there, Dad. Happy Father's Day! PS: I've got that exact same La Couronne kit.
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She's beginning to shape up under 2 coats of white primer. Going to give her a good rub down with some 1500 grit paper, then see if she needs a 3rd coat before the color coats start. I guess in the meantime, I'd better start checking to make sure all the various body hardware will fit without any filing or sanding issues on the body as well. Those places on the nose where the signal lights attach look a little dubious to me, but it may be all well and fine. Can't take anything for granted on these 30+ year old models. They just didn't have a complete measure of accuracy or technology to produce the more perfect kits we have grown accustomed to today.
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Have a extra $100.00 to spend......
CDW replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
It looks very interesting, but I have never used one and cannot say how useful it might be in the long haul. Vossy (Chris) also provided a very thoughtful list of day-to-day ship modeling tools. He is spot on about the need for various size and types of clamps. You can get a lot of ideas for useful tools that won't break the bank by follow the build threads here at MSW. -
Have a extra $100.00 to spend......
CDW replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
If you plan to build plank on frame ship models, a plank bender is going to be very useful. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Plank-Bender-for-Hobby-Model-Ships-by-Model-Shipways-MS7205/253473190370?hash=item3b042df1e2:g:f6QAAOSwJ8pan5Dn -
All three of the cars you mentioned in the 2nd paragraph were boxed and sold by Testors. Remember the Indy cars, the Willard Battery Special and the Jim Clark Lotus? I have both waiting in the wings for a future build. Some decent after market decals for them, too.
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Originally, a company named ICM did a run of several versions of the Ford GT's. Then MPC picked them up when ICM went under, then Testors boxed them too. ICM also did a very well detailed model of a '48 Ford that was way ahead of it's time in engineering and complexity. I've built all of those kits in the past. They were fiddly and not easy to build straight. Back in those days, I didn't even own an XActo knife, so it was not so smooth sailing for me. 😄
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Indeed, some of the Porsche kits that Testors marketed were Fujimi's. I can't recall exactly which ones were and were not Fujimi, if I saw the box art I would remember/know. With Testors, it was a mixed bag. Some of their offerings were great (Fujimi) and some were not. They sold Italeri products in their box under their label as well. This California Spyder I am building right now is an example of that. My kit is in an Italeri box, but you could also find the exact same kit in a Testors box as well.
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I disagree Yves. The results look spectacular. All the hard work you're doing is paying dividends.
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Hey Lou, You know those Testors Dino Ferrari kits are the Fujimi kits in a Testors box, right? Testors made some kind of deal with Fujimi way back then and Testors marketed the kits in the USA in their own Testors boxes. For a long time, modelers didn't seem to know that and paid premium prices for the Fujimi box while you could buy the exact same thing in a Testors box for half as much.
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It wasn't a Ferrari, but when we first moved back to Florida, I found a 1957 Chevy Nomad, all original, for sale on a used car lot for $600. I scraped up the money to buy it and towed it to my house. The car was complete, but inoperable. Needed a rebuild of the engine, brakes, and a paint job. it had the 265 V-8 and a powerglide tranny. I got it up on blocks and intended to rebuild it, but 1st things had to come 1st, and ended up spending our money to buy our house. Ended up practically giving away the car when we moved. Kinda broke my heart. Later, I did acquire a '57 Chevy 2-door hardtop, but it was never the same as that Nomad. Man, that would have been one sharp car had I been able to fix it up as I planned.
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Glad you're here, Lou. I built a beautiful Fujimi Dino 246 about 25 years ago, maybe more. That thing was black, shined like a dime, and was super detailed. You would have loved it. I left that and several other show quality model cars at a local hobby shop to display. When I went back to the shop, it had changed ownership. The new owners claimed my models were 'theirs', and I could not get them back. I said screw it, and just left well enough alone. I didn't want to get handcuffed and booked for slapping somebody around, which I would have done if I were to have words with the guy.
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Here is my Ferrari body after putty and sanding. Next is an old set of Ferrari photo etch I dug out of my stash. Will use the Ferrari scripts (can be seen against the black background) on the body once it's painted and polished. I sanded away the molded on scripts as they look rather clumsy. There may be a few other photo etch parts I will use from these sheets, though they were designed for the Testarossa. Last, these are the wheels I intend to use. They are an out of production set of wire wheels that were produced by Detail Master more than a decade ago. Period correct tires would be Dunlops, but I have none. Will use whatever I have on hand that are the closest match I can find. The big and little American Satco tires would look good on the model, but I don't think they are going to fit my wheels. In any event, the Satco's are Pirelli's (but who cares, right?). Going to give the body it's first coat of Tamiya primer before I hit the sack tonight.
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That was quite a nice find, Ed. My intuition tells me there are so few of us who actually buy then build these sets, not very many people, and even the ones who own the sets, have ever experienced the construction of the model and are aware there is an issue with fit much less that a correction is available. Such is the life of those who are crazy enough to build stuff like this. Kudos to you my friend.
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