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Everything posted by CDW
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At this scale, Pontos does a fine job in it's rendering of the masts. This is the top half of the foremast. All the proper rigging tie off points are reproduced. Even the lantern/light on top of the masts are included. Very impressed with the attention given to the masts at this point.
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Finding reference material to show the tie down points for rigging Mikasa has been less than precise, much less in fact. So, am doing the next best thing. "Kentucky windage". One of the main objectives is tying down so the rigging doesn't interfere with the ships boats, to be added after the rigging is done.
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Look at those two grandsons in the picture above, then imagine this...a true story: The big brother Wyatt was playing a video game while the little brother River was looking on. Wyatt told his dad, "River keeps telling me, kick his 'A'! kick his 'A'!. River (in his own defense) tells his dad, I did not say to kick his 'A'. I said to kick his ***! And that's what little boys are made of. Particularly River. He's a handful to say the least.
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My 3 year old grandson, River, caught himself a snake today in the front yard. His older brother Wyatt looks on wondering, "how the heck did he just do that?"
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If those pictures got any sharper than that, I would probably lose an eye. 🙂 Stunning detail.
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Oscillating Wonder Cutter
CDW replied to Jim Rogers's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Maybe that's why they include a set of gloves? Perhaps they are some kind of glove similar to what you wear when doing fish fillets. -
Oscillating Wonder Cutter
CDW replied to Jim Rogers's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Looks like a penny less than $400 from Micro Mark. Ouch. -
Thanks Ken. I'm going to go look at that pic right now.
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Thanks for that photo! Hmmm...that would be an interesting way of displaying the nets.
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Oh and by the way...I was talking to a life long friend and hobby shop owner today, and showed him my Mikasa photos. He knows a local author and ship historian who actually wrote a book on the Mikasa after studying, measuring, and photographing it in Japan some years ago. My friend thinks the author will be interested in buying my model. We'll see.
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I'm thinking deployed. Have not seen any photos to know how they would have been stowed. That may be interesting, too.
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Thanks Lou...and there is so much more detail yet to be added. Some very full sheets of photo etch and turned brass parts yet remain to be done. I'm trying to decide whether to use the Pontos supplied torpedo nets or build my own. I've seen some very convincing torpedo nets that can be made from readily available materials and they look much better than the photo etch ones in my opinion. Those won't be done until last, so I have time to experiment and decide.
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Thank you kindly for the nice comments gentlemen. Much appreciated.
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Just do what the old Jimmy Buffet song says to keep from going insane...just laugh and move on. It works.
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The funnels will get a lot more detail before they are done. Just seeing how they fit/look before it's too late to make changes if needed.
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Where is the best place to get good quality ships flags?
CDW replied to Lucius Molchany's topic in Wood ship model kits
If you buy Price Albert rolling papers, you don't get those same strange looks as you do with Zig Zag papers. 🙂🤐 -
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She turned out a beauty, Greg. Outstanding work.
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OC Is that Gator Grip glue you are using, in the bottle with a green and white label? If so, that is a great glue for photo etch railings. Excess glue can easily be brushed away with a damp (with water) paint brush, then wick away the water/glue with a dry brush. Makes the join invisible. And it's strong, too. I probably use the thin set version more than the thick (green label) but I think you can thin the thick glue with distilled water, so it makes having both thick and thin bottles redundant.
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Whatever issue there may be with the strips, your model's hull looks superb. Beautiful work.
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