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Everything posted by CDW
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?? I don't know of anything I've changed on my end, unless it was something inadvertent. I'll look at my settings and see what it looks like / if there is something switched on or off that's causing the problem.
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Just an amazing and beautiful model train, Yves. Until your blog, I had never heard about this model. Thanks for sharing it with us! Just curious about the rubber motor/s...do they recommend that the rubber be conditioned with castor oil like we used to do with the rubber motors for free flight airplane models years ago? The castor oil enabled more turns and less resistance than non lubricated rubber.
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I've got the Revell Constitution, CSS Alabama, and USS Kearsarge all sitting in drydock, waiting for me to buy the detail parts and start them. Been wanting to build the Alabama and Kearsarge for a long time but never got around to it. Like you, I did the Constitution long ago, in the 70's, but really want a 2nd go at it with more skill and modernized detail parts.
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Does your research show the torpedo tubes offered any deflection, or was it just a straight shot or nothing? I can see where torpedo's from a fixed launcher could be useful to scuttle a friendly ship or sink a disabled ship, but hitting a moving ship would be next to impossible it seems to me.
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The wooden decks work wonders for the old Revell kits. Looks excellent.
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She looks outstanding, Mike. Very nice job on her thus far.
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With a few exceptions, this completes the rigging for my Mikasa masts. I still must add the flag staffs on the fore and aft ends of the ship, then run the rigging to the staffs. Next, the ship's boats are in line for construction, painting, and attaching to the ship.
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Is the Billing paint acrylic? PS: I wonder how many frogs are used in the manufacture of that masking tape. What's the recipe? 🙂
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Thanks for all the likes and encouraging comments, much appreciated. @Yvesvidal...if you build Mikasa, take note that there are some backdate items included on the plastic sprues in the kit. These backdate items may or may not be included in your particular kit's instructions. Mine did not include them in the instructions. For example, the masts have gun tubs at the lower level, and these parts are included on your parts sprues. However, there is no reference to the tubs on the instruction sheets. Just pointing this out, as apparently, the Mikasa has been released in more than one variation. There are likely differences in the hull and deck unique to early and later kit versions, but miscellaneous parts (such as mast gun tubs) for both early and late versions are on the parts sprues. I did not realize this until it was too late to use them.
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If I display the model at or near eye level, it will be visible. Otherwise, it's not likely anyone would look close enough to see it just looking down at it.
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I have that photo. But if you look closely, those masts are very different than the ones supplied in my Pontos kit, the kit ones likely a later mast variation. So I hear what you're saying, but the picture doesn't match what I've got. Historical accuracy is sort of out the window. I'm just trying to get it to look like I want it to look.
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Just testing here to see how high up I want to take the black/gray paint at the bottom of the masts. I think I prefer the mask at the higher level seen on the rear mast. Will adjust the front mast accordingly.
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Thanks Slog. I suppose there may very well be too much levity at times, and it that causes consternation for some. Will temper my future posts with that thought in mind.
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I like the really crispy fish and it must have malt vinegar on it, too. I don't know what it is about that paper cone, but somehow, the fish served in paper cones tastes so much better. Arthur Treacher's Fish and Chips used to be served in a paper cone.
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Lol - My wife sure does not want raw sushi, but both of us love it. I don't care whether it's cooked or raw, but her's must be cooked. At home, I cook fish/seafood at least twice a week. Sometimes more. Both of us love it because it's good and good for you, too.
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I also find myself staring/looking carefully at the instructions for the very same reason you mention. Fore and aft are nearly identical in appearance.
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I only wish I had been able to find more/better reference material for Mikasa. My hobby shop owner/friend tells me that a local author wrote a reference book on Mikasa, and was published by Osprey, but I was unable to source a copy of it. Additionally, there is another reference written on Mikasa whose name I cannot recall, but again, was unable to locate one for my reference.
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Oh man, that is a really nice kit. Santa came early this year! Can't wait to see the model as you progress with it. What kind of figurehead does the kit include?
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Almost finished with the mast construction now and will get them painted up before the weekend's over (hopefully). Just dry fitting here for fit before painting. Top 2/3 of the masts will be a radome tan color as is seen on the foremast now, and the bottom 1/3 black/gray.
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You could test it by recreating an ELO "stain" on a scrap piece of plastic like maybe a sprue or something similar. But I believe the results will be negative. A clear coat will not hide the stain. If anything, it will probably intensify it.
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