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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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Hang in there OC. You did the right thing taking 5, then coming back to it later. Sometimes, it just seems things won't go correctly and a little time away from it almost always seems to do wonders for me. Rigging something as delicate as a 1:350 mast is always a challenge. When your budget will allow, try to lay your hands upon some ez line, that stretchy thread that works wonders for rigging delicate items. There are some vendors on Ebay who sell it in small quantities for a low price. Something like a dollar for 6 feet. That much will easily do a couple of 1:350 models. -
Really sorry to learn about your wife's accident, Lou. I was wondering where you had been. Hadn't seen you around as much. Now I know. Not going to "like" your post as that seems inappropriate given the circumstances, but want you to know you and your wife are in my prayers for a complete and swift recovery. Now get busy with that house work, sailor. 😉
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This 1:350 Nippon Maru kit was made by IMAI and distributed through Scale Craft Models, vintage 1978. Remember when the "tall ships" were a big thing and touring the world? That's when IMAI released a slew of tall ships replicating those that participated in the tour. This is one of a half dozen or more ships, some done in waterline versions like the Nippon Maru, and some others full hull versions. If you never owned one, you will be surprised at the parts count and quality of these little IMAI kits, but really, IMAI did a whole lot of nice models. They compare very well with any modern day model ship kit in quality...and if you are careful, you can buy them at very favorable prices. I paid less that $20 for this one from Ebay with shipping included. Can't beat that in my opinion. It will make for a nice little model without a bunch of aftermarket, and I can finish it rather quickly.
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I looked around to realize it's been almost a week since I posted some progress on Mikasa. Not that I haven't been working on it every day, some of these details take an inordinate amount of time for me to do, just getting bogged down in all the little fiddly business of it. And I was thinking this past week...I need a diversion. Something that I can work on at the same time as Mikasa so that when details on Mikasa get a little overwhelming, just switch over to the diversion for a more relaxed, not as highly detailed model that I can bang together in a week or two.
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An impressive upgrade set. I assume the masts come with the update set, or is that sold separately?
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Oh, that makes sense why it's happening. They are not packing the parts adequately and they are being heated/crushed. My highly deformed model came from a warehouse in Nevada. It was probably left in a space without climate control and it literally melted the plastic. It was an expensive, big Tamiya kit, too. They replaced mine with no problem.
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Are the turrets vacuformed or injection molded plastic? Only once did I receive an injection molded kit that was warped by heat.
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Thank you Lou! You are the Man. That's exactly what I need. Craig
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I need a digital copy of the 1:50 Heller Le Chebec instruction sheets. Does anyone have them or know where I might acquire a set? Have a complete kit, but no instructions.
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Please Hide Your Ugly Crack All kidding aside, the front and rear bridge is glued down securely and gaps filled. 🤐
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You mean to tell me you never saw any girls IRL who looked like the ones on Playboy? Lol - Just fun'in with you Lou. 🤩😏
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If you were to use a wood grain decal, you would want to try and scale the decal as close to your ship's scale as possible, or else the grain would be way too large. Most of these decal sheets are for 1:48 to 1:32 scales. But I looked on Ebay and noticed they have these wood grain sheets for N scale railroad. That may be about as close as you will find to the scale you are working with, 1:200. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Microscale-601406-N-Scale-Decals-Textured-Plywood-Weathered-Wood-Grain/183383582275?epid=1307723479&hash=item2ab2836643:g:JT8AAOSwulxbdnTi
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Vallejo sells a wood and leather paint set. It involves a primer first, then a base color, then 2 or 3 washes. Comes with a color brochure giving instructions on how to achieve the finish. It sounds like Flory's method involves fewer steps and may actually be easier to achieve the effect you want. The Vallejo set gives a wider range of options for finished color and tint. There used to be wood grain decals you could cut to fit your particular application. Some were quite nice. Often used to simulate WW1 aircraft plywood construction on planes such as the Albatross for example.
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All that natural light sure does make those colors pop out nicely. Probably the DSLR hlps, too. But OC, she is looking mighty, mighty fine. Well done!
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Lol - It's just sitting there as a dry-fit, posing for a picture. Nothing is permanently in place yet, or glued down. Trust me, there will be no gaps when it's done, but thanks for pointing it out.
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I'm at about 90% now with the front bridge, and should finish it up tomorrow as long as I don't get called into action on some unforeseen endeavor...and that's been known to happen. I may begin with the masts after the front bridge is finished, as it may be better to do some of the mast rigging before the deck areas get all cluttered up. It gets pretty busy with all the launches. Will need to carefully look things over before I decide for sure.
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Thanks Ron. I'll be interested to see your sample pieces using the Minwax product. My good buddy here in Tampa and I build scale RC aircraft. He uses Minwax stain a lot on his projects and likes it, too. What you've been using is the water based product? I think most all these stains are water based nowadays, rather than oil based like they used to be.
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Ron While I could be open to staining the decks, my results in the past have been less than spectacular. It seemed the stain was inconsistent over large areas. Blotches of dark and light areas. Maybe it was due to the stain I was using. What type/brand did you test to get satisfactory results? It's late in the game for me to stain mine, but would like to know for the future, other builds. CDW
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Next, I have to repeat an almost identical process to finish the front bridge. At least all the searchlights and guns are finished. Do any of you have any sources for period correct Japanese battle flags I could scale to this ship? All my kit came with are some color printed flags on glossy paper. They don't even appear to be in the correct scale. I guess if push comes to shove, I could scan what I have, size them how I want, then print them on clear or white decal paper.
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Of all the suggestions so far, I believe this may be the most cost effective solution. Maybe not as aesthetically pleasing as a proper display case, but would keep the dust off and still allow a visual of all sides and top of the model. At least in the USA, used aquariums are sold for pennies on the dollar in thrift shops and even given away for free in classified sections of newspapers sometimes.
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Each of the search lights are 15 piece assemblies. I'll paint and detail these, then add the clear lenses and flanges last.
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Ron, The thing about all of these Pontos (and others as well) update sets, is that the pictorial "instructions" are not a build guide at all. They are simply photos of how the parts go together. It's up to the individual modeler to work out their own assembly sequence as they see fit. You'll find yourself often going over each page of instructions over and over again, trying to find the particular photos you need for the step you're on. Best advice, read, read, read, look, look, look, then decide the way/order you think is best to tackle the model. You can see here how I did it, but that doesn't mean I did it right. There very well may be a different sequence that would work out better than the way I did it. Hope you have lots of fun doing yours! CDW
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