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Everything posted by CDW
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I must make a comment about this particular Dragon model. The instructions are terrible. The included painting references are terrible. I was remiss to not have collected and studied good reference material ahead of time, and as long time modeler, should have known to do that. But the instructions are particularly bad with this model. As good as the model is engineered and manufactured, it's a shame they didn't do a better job on the instructions and painting references. Too many things are left up to the imagination or school of hard knocks. Otherwise, it is a beautiful kit. And I do recommend it to experienced modelers. Modelers with little experience, no way.
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Have yet to do the masts, life boats, rigging, anchors, chains, other small parts/fittings, railings, and some touch up painting here and there. Really, I am ready to wrap this up and move on to something else. One day. I plan to do this model again to employ some things I learned building this one.
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You know, there's something else I thought about that happened to me one time before... I had this magnifying glass that was attached to a movable stand. Well, it was in just the right place where sunlight from my window came through and it darn near started a fire in my workshop. A set of plans were scorched from it. Taught me a lesson about leaving magnifying glasses in close proximity to a window and sunlight.
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Came out great! You would have to know it was there in the first place to even notice it. Sometimes as model builders, we are our own worst critics and nothing is ever perfect enough. That's me, anyway, and my OCD disorder.
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Hey Greg...after discussing which ship you are going to build next, I broke down and ordered a 1:350 Yamato. A shop in Japan sold me one of the new mold Yamato kits for $160 plus postage. That brought it to about $240 total, the best price I could find. So I guess at least I'll want a Pontos set, but looking them over, it seems they offer several or more sets that include different details. I wonder if there is a complete set for that ship?
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Hey Jorgen Are you on the European server? I am on the North American server with about 1600 battles total so far. The Scharnhorst is a lot of fun to play. Have had some high damage scores in that ship.
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Those detail pieces from Pontos look amazing. I am assuming that's where many of the pieces on the deck come from. If so, it makes that set well worth the investment no matter how intimidating it looks in the box. My set for the Essex aircraft carrier is intimidating for sure. When I start it, I am going to remember what you said...tackle it like you're eating an elephant, one bite at a time.
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Hi Greg Personally, I am very interested in seeing a good Yamato build. I am sure whatever you decide to tackle next will be fun to watch in any event. Have thoroughly enjoyed your build of the Dreadnought.
- 342 replies
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I just looked at the Dockyard site for the first time. Wow, they have some nice models over there, and the pound is favorably priced against the dollar right now. Will probably order some things from them that I have never seen over here in the states.
- 56 replies
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- sd-14 cargo ship
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Going to happily follow this thread. So much to learn about building a card model. And this one is huge!
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My first instinct is the plastic reacted to the paint you are using. Is it a rattle can paint? If so, what kind/brand is it? Certain types of paint can take quite a while to gas out. If multiple coats are applied, the plastic is damaged by the volatiles in the paint that are gassing out in the curing process. PS: also, "bondo" or other types of filler have the same effect on plastic.
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I bought a couple of small sample pieces in 2 different diameters just to see which I might prefer for 1:350 scale. I must still buy a 100' roll once I am sure which size to use. If I remember correctly, the smallest size was .3mm and the next size up, .6mm. Probably the very smallest size is what I'll need.
- 342 replies
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I am curious about how you put tension on the rigging without causing the masts to come tumbling down. I realize of course, that you probably must "tie off" a set of lines on each side of the pull at the same time so as to keep it (masts) upright. But still, it seems like one would need at least three hands to do all that. On my ship, there are some very flimsy horizontal photo etch pieces that attach to the mast. Pictures show that rigging should extend from these pieces to the bottom as well as the top of the masts. I just don't know how I will do that and at the same time keep those PE pieces safely glued to the masts.
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I'm trust your wife has been given a special request to please do not dust off the rigging on the Dreadnaught, no matter how tempting it might be? The Admiral is always right and everything like that, but a gentle reminder to not dust might be in order.
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Thanks for the encouragement OC. I have had the airbrush out tonight and have done some painting and weathering. Lots more to do before assembling the whole thing.
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Life has been getting in the way of modeling time recently. But hey...I have learned a lot about how to operate my new car! And that has been no small feat (for me). Notice I said a lot, not all. I now recall that I used to buy two models of each kind that I really liked. One was to build first and make my mistakes on, the second was to really put some effort and correct my first mistakes. Building this model reminds me all too much of why I did that. There are so many things I would do different if I had it to do all over again. But it's often hard to see these little snafu traps in advance the first time around. Anyway, here are a couple of pictures of where i am right now in the construction of this ship.
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If you could spare $18, you could always get this brass aftermarket prop set: http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/gfm35022.htm Craig
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Morning Gentlemen, Having some experience with building the DeAgostini Victory, I can tell you that sanding/filing some bulkheads to shape is common. Yes, I would say it is an error in the way it was cut, but they expect the modeler to correct it themselves by either filing and/or sanding it to the correct shape when it becomes time to plank the model. I experienced the exact same thing with my Victory. Not a big deal to correct, really. Regards Craig
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I love the way those turrets came out. Beautiful.
- 342 replies
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I recently subscribed to Flory Models modeling website. Man, that gentleman does good work. I wish I had subscribed to his site before I started a couple of my recent models, including this Scharnhorst. Some of the tips and tricks I have learned from his tutorials could have really helped me along the way. It's been such a long time since I was really "into" the hobby, I lost touch with many new techniques and products. Particularly the sequence of construction and painting. Oh well, I am just happy I am still learning something.
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How do you think a finished HMS Duke of York will look sitting next to a finished Scharnhorst as a display?
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soldering iron or torch? advice please
CDW replied to Mark Pearse's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Here in the USA, those little butane gas fuel containers we use to fill our micro torches and/or cigarette lighters have become very hard to find. Stores that used to carry them in inventory no longer stock them. When I do find someone who has them in stock, I buy as many as I can and keep them for future use. I agree with what most here have said. Use a micro torch and solder rather than a soldering iron for this job.
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