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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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Oh dear...my mistake. Looking at the instruction photos, it appeared as though the resin parts I thought were missing were all part of a resin sprue where each of four separate parts were attached. But that was not the case. Even though it was pictured as such, making me think the parts were missing, they were actually each individual part on a single sprue and not as they were pictured. All's well that ends well, and this ends well. I had my parts all along. Disaster/inconvenience averted. -
I started to build the Quad 40mm Bofors gun tubs today and found that the kit omitted a lot of the resin parts required to build those guns. I'll find out now how Pontos does customer service for missing parts. Sheesh, I hate that those parts were missing and that Ponto is on the other side of the world from here. Oh well, there are lots more things to work on while I wait for replacement parts.
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I like this technique a lot. It gives a very realistic finished appearance in my opinion.
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- riva aquarama
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Arguments over shades and minutia of color are like fussing with how many angels can dance on the head of a pin. Regarding the photos of Aydingocer's Riva interior, I think it looks super great. If and when he is happy with it, go with it. Overall, this boat project is very very nice. I like it a lot.
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OC, What amazes me is the level of detail they are able to produce with resin castings these days. I remember when resin detail parts first started coming out I would be lucky if the parts were not broken before I opened the package, or would be broken just trying to assemble the things. And on top of that, they were very crude by today's standards. Now, the resin parts are detailed in a way I can't even wrap my head around. Cannot imagine how a mold could be made that small to that level of detail, and then cast the parts and remove them from said mold without breaking the parts. It feels like the resin is maybe a little more "plastic" than it used to be so that it flexes a bit rather than breaks. Amazing stuff really, and Pontos is top notch for sure. No wonder the sets cost as much as they do. One can only imagine what it would take to create an original at this level of detail.
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So, I've been plucking away on these Pontos detail pieces, spending maybe a couple of hours per day with it. That being said, it's going to take a while to build all the little sub assemblies and this ship has quite a few. Here are just a few pieces for reference, a single mount 5" 38 gun, and the gun tubs for a couple of the twin 5" 38 gun turrets. The single 5" gun on the left consists of about 10 total pieces; resin, photo etch, and turned brass gun barrel. The photo etch gun tubs consist of somewhere around 15-20 individual pieces to make up each tub. And let me tell you, if you accidentally drop some of these pieces on the floor they are so small the chances of finding them are slim and none. For size reference, a ball point pen sits beside the 5" gun.
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Glue efficiency (most useless topic ever!)
CDW replied to Robin Lous's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Lol, Robin. You know, there is always a first time for just about anything. But after all these many years/decades without any negative or harmful incidents, I am going to use whatever glue works best for me regardless of ingredients and what California thinks of it. I believe much of the outcry about the ingredients of various products are due to the idiots who abuse them. Keep in mind there are mental midgets who put these types of glues in a paper bag then huff the fumes to get high. No doubt, some of those people have died or got sick. Maybe even exploded. -
Wow, that's a great find. Had no idea those were there. Being able to zoom in helps tremendously and is just what I needed. Thanks!
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These Pontos engineers do their products pretty well. The photo etch fits together very well, much better than some other brands I have used. I do wish their instruction sheets were printed just a little larger. The photos of the finished work are helpful, but very hard to see due to the small size of the printed photos.
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Sam I buy 3/4 oz cloth here: http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/IndexMiscellaneousF.html?E+Sig They also sell a .56 oz cloth that I call 1/2 oz (close enough for me). I primarily use it when I build balsa cowls for my R/C aircraft models. I use the light cloth to fiberglass the outside of my cowlings. tt makes them much stronger, dent resistant, and fuel proof. Or, in the case of a model boat, water proof. But as you mentioned, just finishing resin without any glass at all would probably work just fine. The glass will give an added level of protection and resistance to cracks of dents if the model is to be powered and used in the water. For a shelf display, it probably doesn't matter.
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These photo etch pieces from the Pontos detail set are used to detail the side elevator on the Essex model. Just to be clear, there are many such details to be completed for the model to be finished. These took one evening to complete.
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If you don't mind me saying so, 2 oz fiberglass cloth is not what I would call "light". 1/2 oz or 3/4 oz cloth is light. In my humble opinion, 2 oz cloth may be too heavy for a model like this. To be on the safe side, try a piece on some scrap, first. Just to get a feel for how it lays down and what it looks like after it's down. I am basing this on my own personal experience with laying fiberglass. The lighter the glass, the more transparent it will be in the end (a good thing) and the easier it will be to prevent any wrinkles and/or bubbles.
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- dumas
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As amazing as it might sound, my Admiral rarely ever complains about anything I buy related to model building. She rather seems to expect it after more than 40 years of experience.
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- deagostini
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Those Hobbyzone items look great, good quality. Particularly looking at the plank bender station.
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Glue efficiency (most useless topic ever!)
CDW replied to Robin Lous's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Well that is interesting. Cellulose nitrate is also an ingredient found in fuel proof model airplane dope as used for covering and finishing. It shrinks as time goes on which makes it useful as covering because it keeps the fabric tight. -
The Essex hull with a splash of preshading before any finish paint goes on the model. I ordered photo etch portholes from Northstar and will wait until those arrive and install them before painting the hull. The the meantime, will do some detail work and painting in the hangar deck area as well as begin begin building the photo etch assemblies from Pontos. A ton of those to do.
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Captain Slog For the card stock models, I'll bet those scalpel blades are going to be great. I don't like using them too much on my wooden models because the blades are thinner as you noted. I still use both the standard No. 11 model blades and I also use the scalpels for lighter work. It just seems to me they will be ideal for a card stock model. By the way, your model is looking fabulous. I have a few card stock models and am trying to soak in the ins and outs before I attempt to build one.
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Glue efficiency (most useless topic ever!)
CDW replied to Robin Lous's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
That is interesting. I have never used Uhu Hart glue. Is it a PVA, or something else? A friend and I have built a lot of micro scale R/C aircraft where keeping weight to a bare minimum is critical. My friend swears he has tested it and that CA glue is much heavier than PVA glue. I am not a gram-counter when it comes to building and flying my micro size aircraft, but maybe I should be? I have never checked to verify his assertion about CA being heavier. But the truth is, when building model aircraft, I prefer PVA glue in spite of what it might weigh. Reason being, if I make a mistake, I can un-do it with a drop of water on the glue joint whereas CA is pretty much set once it is used. -
Thanks Jorgen. I have used that technique in the past to fill seams as well as create them and sometimes the old tried and true techniques are the best. On the net, I found a beautiful build article with photos of an Essex class carrier. The author meticulously taped off each individual panel and used modeling putty to fashion the panels. Talk about a painful, patience testing exercise, that is one for the books. But it came out beautiful, stunning. I do not think my skills are up to that task right now. One thing I have noted in general... I will use masking tape to control the limits of where modeling putty is being applied so as not to create additional sanding work and possibly lose molded in surface detail. If the tape is not quickly removed after the putty is applied, glue residue from the tape will be left stuck to the model to the extent some type of glue remover (like Goo Gone) will have to be used to deal with it. I guess the volatiles in the putty attack and go through the tape.
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Those faux panel lines didn't work to my satisfaction at all. Just too pronounced, even after sanding them down quite a bit. Ended up sanding them completely off. Next, will use pre shaded panel markings underneath my paint job to simulate the panels instead. I could engrave them, but I am afraid I won't like that either. I got my 1.3 mm diameter LED lights, and a 9 volt battery connection with a micro on-off switch, in the mail today. Really quick turn around from a train-hobby shop here in the USA. Never used them before, just took a chance and they were great. Low prices and very reasonable/fast postage.
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So, I hope this experiment will turn out satisfactory. I have added an armor belt along the water line then began to fashion what will become raised detail to simulate welds on the hull. Of course, at the moment, nothing is sanded down nor shaped in a way that will give the effect of welds. But you can probably get the idea of what I'm trying to achieve. I used .020 Plastruct styrene rod. Would have preferred to have use .010 instead, but my local hobby shop had none in stock. Hopefully once I get her sanded down, the effect will look subtle and not too gaudy. Nothing a little sandpaper and elbow grease can't cure, but I don't like to waste time. Still quite a bit to do, just took some photos along the way for posterity.
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