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Everything posted by CDW
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My first instinct is the plastic reacted to the paint you are using. Is it a rattle can paint? If so, what kind/brand is it? Certain types of paint can take quite a while to gas out. If multiple coats are applied, the plastic is damaged by the volatiles in the paint that are gassing out in the curing process. PS: also, "bondo" or other types of filler have the same effect on plastic.
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I bought a couple of small sample pieces in 2 different diameters just to see which I might prefer for 1:350 scale. I must still buy a 100' roll once I am sure which size to use. If I remember correctly, the smallest size was .3mm and the next size up, .6mm. Probably the very smallest size is what I'll need.
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I am curious about how you put tension on the rigging without causing the masts to come tumbling down. I realize of course, that you probably must "tie off" a set of lines on each side of the pull at the same time so as to keep it (masts) upright. But still, it seems like one would need at least three hands to do all that. On my ship, there are some very flimsy horizontal photo etch pieces that attach to the mast. Pictures show that rigging should extend from these pieces to the bottom as well as the top of the masts. I just don't know how I will do that and at the same time keep those PE pieces safely glued to the masts.
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I'm trust your wife has been given a special request to please do not dust off the rigging on the Dreadnaught, no matter how tempting it might be? The Admiral is always right and everything like that, but a gentle reminder to not dust might be in order.
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Thanks for the encouragement OC. I have had the airbrush out tonight and have done some painting and weathering. Lots more to do before assembling the whole thing.
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Life has been getting in the way of modeling time recently. But hey...I have learned a lot about how to operate my new car! And that has been no small feat (for me). Notice I said a lot, not all. I now recall that I used to buy two models of each kind that I really liked. One was to build first and make my mistakes on, the second was to really put some effort and correct my first mistakes. Building this model reminds me all too much of why I did that. There are so many things I would do different if I had it to do all over again. But it's often hard to see these little snafu traps in advance the first time around. Anyway, here are a couple of pictures of where i am right now in the construction of this ship.
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If you could spare $18, you could always get this brass aftermarket prop set: http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/gfm35022.htm Craig
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Morning Gentlemen, Having some experience with building the DeAgostini Victory, I can tell you that sanding/filing some bulkheads to shape is common. Yes, I would say it is an error in the way it was cut, but they expect the modeler to correct it themselves by either filing and/or sanding it to the correct shape when it becomes time to plank the model. I experienced the exact same thing with my Victory. Not a big deal to correct, really. Regards Craig
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I love the way those turrets came out. Beautiful.
- 342 replies
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I recently subscribed to Flory Models modeling website. Man, that gentleman does good work. I wish I had subscribed to his site before I started a couple of my recent models, including this Scharnhorst. Some of the tips and tricks I have learned from his tutorials could have really helped me along the way. It's been such a long time since I was really "into" the hobby, I lost touch with many new techniques and products. Particularly the sequence of construction and painting. Oh well, I am just happy I am still learning something.
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How do you think a finished HMS Duke of York will look sitting next to a finished Scharnhorst as a display?
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soldering iron or torch? advice please
CDW replied to Mark Pearse's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Here in the USA, those little butane gas fuel containers we use to fill our micro torches and/or cigarette lighters have become very hard to find. Stores that used to carry them in inventory no longer stock them. When I do find someone who has them in stock, I buy as many as I can and keep them for future use. I agree with what most here have said. Use a micro torch and solder rather than a soldering iron for this job. -
Wow, I feel your pain. Have been there and done that before. Maybe take a break from it for a while and do something different to break the cycle. Then when you come back to it, do it with a fresh start type of attitude. Given some time to think about it a while, you'll probably think of some creative ways to fix things up and all will be good again.
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Along with the 2 part epoxy and cyanoacrylate glues, I most often use the original formula of Titebond rather then the new formula Titebond. Why? Because it is not waterproof. Over the course of my model building career, I have learned I am prone to making mistakes from time to time. By using the original formula glue, I can take it back apart if I need to do so by slightly moistening the area with water. This has saved my projects many times. Of course, there are times when a water resistant or waterproof glue is a must.
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A good friend of mine owned a hobby shop for a long time. He is a great builder as well. When I first started looking at wooden decks for plastic ship models, he recommended I buy Artwox over other brands. I didn't know why and didn't question it. Maybe this is why? I'll have to ask him when I see him again.
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That chain built link by link is a testament to the patience of Greg. Outstanding! You get an A+ for that.
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What was different about the 3rd build. Was the deck concave or any other peculiarities? Were the decks all from the same mfg.?
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Greg It's good to know the wooden deck can be removed if necessary. It's hard as heck to get it lined up perfectly. Where the deck lifts and using super glue to secure it to the deck...it seems like you don't notice it lifting until a day or so after it's initially put in place. At least that's what I have noticed this first time using the wooden deck. There are a couple of places where it wants to lift. Will use the technique you described. Thanks!
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Your model is simply stunning. Great work and a fun thread to look through. Only wish I had found it sooner, but will tag along from now on. I had no idea the Zvezda kit was this nice a place to start. That company has come a long way it seems. I remember some pretty rough pieces from them some years back. Cheers!
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