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Everything posted by CDW
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I noticed the same thing while I was building my DeAgostini Victory hull. The planks were of very inconsistent quality between the various shipments, sometimes good and sometimes very poor.
- 305 replies
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- deagostini
- vasa
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That wheel is a huge favor for the finished look of your model. Great job, Jesse!
- 1,306 replies
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- syren
- model shipways
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Carl For CA, I use this one. It is a medium viscosity glue. I particularly like the cap seal, as it doesn't become clogged so often as many CA glues tend to do. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-20-g-Super-Glue-78056/100661959 This is Gator Grip acrylic glue: http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html (I edited the link for Gorilla Glue, blue cap)
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Thanks for your kind comments OC. I use both CA as well as an acrylic glue called Gator Grip, depending on the particular application at hand. Gator Grip is similar to PVA in its appearance, but it dries to a much thinner, clearer, finish. If I am gluing things that can benefit by the higher strength that CA provides and it will only require a small drop or two to do the job, CA is likely my choice. But, if I need to apply more than just a small drop, or perhaps if the part must be slid into place, I will likely prefer Gator Grip. A good "for instance" is where the photo etch walkways wrap around the bridge. Because those are slid into place and come in contact with the (almost) entire side/s of the bridge, I prefer Gator Grip because it dries thin, very clear, and does not mar the finish of the plastic. After the acrylic glue is applied, I can take a wetted paint brush and use to remove any excess glue, leaving a virtually "clean" finish where the photo etch part attaches to the plastic. In addition, if I glue photo etch doors or portholes to the model, I will also use acrylic glue for the same reasons given above. Attaching the masts to the bridge, I use CA for it's strong hold and because only a small drop is required on each leg.
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Okay, the control tower is maybe 90% done. Will add some ladders after the assembly is attached to the deck. Also, need to build and add the 20mm AA guns as well as some search lights. The search lights I ordered from Northstar and am waiting for them to arrive. The kit provided lights are pretty lame, devoid of detail. Make sure not to sneeze or break wind while you're viewing these pictures. The shock wave is very likely to knock off some of these small parts.
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Hi Pierre I just switch from one type of modeling to the other. I'll build static models for a few years, then switch back to flying models. Besides, I have too many great model aircraft to build and finish just to quit. Several Proctor models including a Jenny. The 1/5 scale Pica Waco, a 1/5 scale Arizona Models DH-1, a 1/5 scale P-51 Mustang, and many others.
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Thanks guys, for the likes and the kind comments. Still to be added are ladders, more radar and towers, gun control directors, three HF antennae, a half dozen or more 20mm guns, and various bits and pieces. I added another 25% of it since those last photos and am going to try and finish it today and tomorrow. Soon, I am going to paint the hull and try to figure out the wooden deck. There are a lot of photo etch pieces that go on the deck but very little information on the "plans". As good as this Pontos set is, the instructions are just horrible. Parts mis-numbered, details left out, etc. A lot of wasted time trying to figure out how everything is supposed to go together. In the long run, the set is worth it regardless of the effort required overcoming their shoddy plans.
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Maybe about half way finished with the control tower. It's a little slow going due to the small, tedious parts and because the holiday season brings on many other tasks unrelated to modeling.
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To err on the safe side, the only way I know to test is to spray the clear over a scrap painted with the same paint that's on your hull. Otherwise, you risk some unwanted reaction on your finished model. It's my guess that a spray acrylic would be safe sprayed over enamel. But I could be wrong. How long has the enamel been on the model? Enamel can take a very long time to thoroughly dry.
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You will not regret going with a H&S airbrush. They are ahead of their competition in terms of ease of cleaning and high quality.
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That seems like a good plan, Mike. You probably know, but Hobbywing has a reputation for manufacturing some of the best ESC's in the industry. You made a great choice there IMHO. And i don't have any doubts that a brushless motor runs hotter than a brushed motor based on my own experience with them.
- 146 replies
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- dumas
- Chris-Craft Commander Express
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Are the brushed motors water cooled? I wonder how well ESC's hold up in an enclosed environment with the heat and all? Your's looks like it has a nice heat sink built on.
- 146 replies
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- dumas
- Chris-Craft Commander Express
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To me, the Dusek kit looks awesome. Never owned a Dusek kit yet, but your build of this one has me looking at everything they offer. I like it. A lot.
- 473 replies
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- greek bireme
- dusek
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Hi Mike Have you given any thought as to how you will treat the metal fittings that come with the kit? For my Dumas kit fittings, I have considered buying a Nickel plating kit off Ebay to try and give them a chrome look. With mine, they will require some serious cleaning up and polishing prior to any attempt to either plate them or even to paint them with a chrome paint. PS: Oh, never mind. I read from the top and now remember we already discussed this subject somewhat. It's hell getting old and forgetful.
- 146 replies
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- dumas
- Chris-Craft Commander Express
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I have put models away to finish at a later date before. As long as I only waited a short period of time I was okay. Wait too long and I never got around to it again. I look at it this way: Model building is my hobby and should be fun. If a build is not fun for me, what's the point of trying to see how much pain I can endure? A lot of this decision depends on what exactly is the issue. Is it an issue of too much tedious work? Take a short break then get back to it. Or is it an issue of ill fitting parts and losing interest because I think it's turning out to be a pig? I am not above unloading a kit project that has become a monkey on my back. I'm all to happy to put that monkey on someone else's back who likes monkeys.
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If you saw one of these Pontos sets first hand, you would really be amazed. The minute detail in both the photo etch as well as the cast resin is astounding. All the turned brass is first rate, too. Until the advent of computer assisted drawing and manufacturing, this kind of detail would not have been possible in a marketed set. Maybe some uber talented individual could create it, but put it in production, no.
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The flight deck wasn't very cooperative. It's a 3 piece affair and each of the 3 pieces were warped. This required glue and clamps on the deck pieces then waiting overnight for them to dry. Afterward, the deck was still warped and required serious clamping to the hull to ensure it all layed down nice and flat. This took another day to dry. There is an awful lot of metalwork that goes both on the outside as well as the bottom side of the flight deck. It really does add spice to the otherwise bland stock kit parts. But who the heck besides me is ever going to look at all this when it's done? I guess we modelers are a strange bunch the way we throw ourselves into these various projects. But wow, it's so much fun and it gets better as I go along with this project. Still lots of work to do and many many more details. Soon, I need to paint the hull.
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Those perforated beams were worth waiting for. I am impressed with the various modeling items coming out of the Ukraine. Prices are good and their craftsmanship/service is outstanding.
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For you, I will take lots of pictures inside the hobby shop, Joe. Will also take a bunch of pictures at the Smithsonian museums in DC, as well.
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Oh noooo! It's that good? Bad part is, no way to hide it from my wife because she'll be with me. Just kidding...she's great and doesn't bother me about things I buy unless I don't use them. Then I get grief. As it should be.
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