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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. Hi Sjors, My given name is Craig. Daddyrabbit is an old nickname from many years ago. Probably because I was prolific...like a daddy rabbit. The Agostini HMS Victory I am building is not pictured here as I never started a build thread for it. Maybe I should?
  2. Wow, I feel your pain. Have been there and done that before. Maybe take a break from it for a while and do something different to break the cycle. Then when you come back to it, do it with a fresh start type of attitude. Given some time to think about it a while, you'll probably think of some creative ways to fix things up and all will be good again.
  3. Just found your build thread, Sjors. Beautiful work my friend. The construction sequence looks very similar to the Agostini HMS Victory I am building. Regards from Florida, USA
  4. Along with the 2 part epoxy and cyanoacrylate glues, I most often use the original formula of Titebond rather then the new formula Titebond. Why? Because it is not waterproof. Over the course of my model building career, I have learned I am prone to making mistakes from time to time. By using the original formula glue, I can take it back apart if I need to do so by slightly moistening the area with water. This has saved my projects many times. Of course, there are times when a water resistant or waterproof glue is a must.
  5. A good friend of mine owned a hobby shop for a long time. He is a great builder as well. When I first started looking at wooden decks for plastic ship models, he recommended I buy Artwox over other brands. I didn't know why and didn't question it. Maybe this is why? I'll have to ask him when I see him again.
  6. That chain built link by link is a testament to the patience of Greg. Outstanding! You get an A+ for that.
  7. What was different about the 3rd build. Was the deck concave or any other peculiarities? Were the decks all from the same mfg.?
  8. Great! One of my favorite ships. Glad to see your build thread.
  9. Greg It's good to know the wooden deck can be removed if necessary. It's hard as heck to get it lined up perfectly. Where the deck lifts and using super glue to secure it to the deck...it seems like you don't notice it lifting until a day or so after it's initially put in place. At least that's what I have noticed this first time using the wooden deck. There are a couple of places where it wants to lift. Will use the technique you described. Thanks!
  10. Your model is simply stunning. Great work and a fun thread to look through. Only wish I had found it sooner, but will tag along from now on. I had no idea the Zvezda kit was this nice a place to start. That company has come a long way it seems. I remember some pretty rough pieces from them some years back. Cheers!
  11. I finished quite a bit of the superstructure work, but there remains lots of little details to be added. Also, applied the wooden deck material. What I have pictured here are the major superstructure sub assemblies sitting on top of the deck, not glued down. As well, the deck is just sitting in place, not glued. What I intend to do is to begin painting the camouflage pattern on the hull, then put some of that pattern on the superstructure pieces as required before gluing them in place on the deck. I have them painted in the major colors required, but they need that final touch. As well, there remain a bunch of details to add, including railings, guns, life boats, rafts, search lights, etc., etc. If anyone sees something I need to do differently or add, please let me know. I am always open to constructive criticism. This is the first time I have used that self adhesive wood decking. It's a little tricky getting it in the exact place you want it while it wants to stick to everything in near proximity whether you want it to or not. And once it is stuck down, I doubt it could be removed without completely destroying it.
  12. Dear Kurt I agreed and will not again use terms to suggest something is an illegal copy, thus legitimizing the illegal sale of a copy. However, I used those terms very loosely in this context. In fact, I was careless in the use of those terms. I am certain that if you hold side by side the parts of the Harbor Freight airbrush with the Iwata airbrush to compare the two, they are most definitely different. They are not the same, they are not a copy. The reason I am certain, I own both airbrushes. If you wish, I can make a pictorial comparison between the two, but I think what you are after is even the suggestion that an item for sale might be an illegal copy. Am I correct? I can not argue the quality of the Harbor Freight product is equal to an Iwata. It's not. But what I have found is that with some fairly simple modifications that I can do at home to improve it, my Harbor Freight airbrush is quite capable of doing an impressive paint job. On a par with Iwata, or other name brand airbrush products. In any event, you have my most humble apology for using terms that are sensitive in nature on this forum. None of us should hold lightly or condone any type of illegal activity, in particular in this context, copyright infringement. I certainly do not. Best Regards
  13. I'm going to be posting some new photos very soon. But before I post new photos, I just wanted to say how critically important it is with this model to carefully test fit and look ahead in the instructions to see more clearly exactly how the parts are intended to go together. This is specifically true where various sub assemblies go together to make a final major assembly but its not limited to just and only that. Part of the problem here I think is that the model is very complex. The instructions offer no verbiage whatsoever, but only some types of "universal" (I'm assuming) symbols that are not intuitive. Unfortunately, no part of the instructions give any indication of the meaning of these symbols. Some parts of various sub assemblies require that certain parts be installed only after the sub assemblies have been put in place. But the problem is that nowhere in the instructions are you warned of this. You only learn after you have either gone through much labor in testing and/or trial and error. This is not intended to scare anyone away from building this beautiful kit as the results are worth the effort. But it's just a word to the wise. This is not your 1950's-1970's Monogram/Revell/Airfix kit by any stretch of the imagination.
  14. James I love your choice of the Norden for a first build. Your work so far looks spectacular, like you have been doing this for a long time. Keep up the good work and please, keep posting updates with more photos. Craig
  15. Glad to have found your build thread of the Warspite. it looks great!
  16. Wow, I hope all that machine shop and it's tools were not scrapped, too. But probably they were. I've heard stories about all the equipment that was tossed overboard after WW2 was over. Kinda gives you an uneasy feeling in the pit of your stomach, doesn't it?
  17. Dozens upon dozens of parts went into constructing this part of the superstructure. Still need to add some small assemblies (guns, range finders, masts, and search lights) before this little sub section is completed. This was my first foray into the adhesive backed wooden decks. The ones seen here came with the Art Vox deck set. Everything else is right out of the kit box, including the photo etch pieces. It's amazing and at the same time tedious how they have broken down the smallest parts into multi piece assemblies. Even the little doors are separately molded plastic.
  18. Well I have to tell you, the instructions for the Pontos Essex set is less than stellar to put it mildly. But I am lucky. A friend gave me the Trumpeter Essex kit along with a great photo packed book on Essex class carriers. The book should help me where it can be hard to identify from the instructions where some of the small parts go.
  19. Bill I just received a Pontos detail set for the 1:350 Essex aircraft carrier. I may have bit off more than I can chew. Incredible amounts of small detail. Don't know if I will be able to see or work with all of it. It will be a challenge for certain.
  20. Tim Liberty ships are very interesting to me. My uncle served with the US Navy as a gunner aboard a liberty ship during WW2. He is dead and gone now, but he once told me a lot about his tour of duty at my mother's request. Even after so many years had passed, he had a very difficult time talking about the combat. It was harrowing. He was with a convoy of scores of ships going through the North Atlantic headed to Murmansk. It was supposed to be safe as the allies had gained air superiority and many U-boats had been destroyed. Despite all that, they were ambushed by German Ju-88 torpedo bombers. Most of the convoy was lost/sunk. Their captain was experienced enough to take advantage of fog and disappear into it until the attack was over. I wish I had written down and/or recorded what he had to say. As they say, hindsight is 20-20. Yes, the 1/350 photo etch is a little too difficult for me to see as well as I would like. PS: I built but did not completely finish a 1:350 Trumpeter Liberty Ship. Your photos in this thread will encourage me to finish mine. Your photos show detail I did not have access to when I was building mine and I gave up trying to figure out all the little details including all the rigging.
  21. What a beautiful model. Glad to have found your build thread.
  22. One of my primary hobbies is building and flying scale RC aircraft models. Epoxy is a go-to adhesive where the most strength and durability is required. Very often, only small amounts are needed. A drop of each part, A & B are mixed on a plastic coffee can lid or similar plastic surface. It is not necessary to be extremely precise and I do it by eye. No mixing cups, no scale, etc. Works like a charm. As long as epoxy is kept in a controlled temp/environment and out of sunlight, mine has lasted years without incident.
  23. I probably won't use this technique here with this model, but there is something else you can do with blue tack that's interesting. If you are doing an airbrushed camouflage on a model... flatten, shape and use the blue tack as a masking. Then when you paint, sort of spray the paint where it comes over and across the blue tack mask and applied to the surface to be painted. If done properly, you will get a blended mask separating the colors rather than a hard line you would get with masking tape. I don't know if the way I am explaining it does the technique justice. On another day and subject, will share the technique with photos and step by step if anyone is interested. Another good feature of it is that it will not peel off paint as sometimes masking tape has a tendency to do. However, you don't want to leave it on a painted surface too long. I usually remove it as a masking as soon as my paint is dry to the touch so as not to spoil any paint under the mask.
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