JeffT

...a few more!
 

Hey all!
 
After seeing so many wonderful build logs of this ship, and also following along with Chuck's log, I couldnt resist and had to start a build of my own.  I don't have as much time as I would like, so I decided to order the bulkheads, chapter 1, and chapter 2 from Syren.  I ordered it on dec 22nd as a Christmas present, and I was very surprised I received it on the 26th! With the holidays, I was sure it wouldn't come in until after new years. Thank you Chuck! You never stop impressing me!
 
From what I have done so far, I have completed the stem except for adding the wipe on poly.  It is amazing how well the laser cut parts fit together!  It really required very minimal sanding.

The Chery is very beautiful and I am very happy with the result. It was great that Chuck included a few extra cuts of the smaller pieces in case any of them got damaged while sanding or trying to fit the part.  That did come in handy for me.
 
I then looked at the bulkheads and false keel pieces.  I noticed that quite a few of the plywood boards were warped some.  So this will need to be corrected.
 
I glued all 3 pieces of the false keel together on my desk.  Since 2 out of 3 pieces were somewhat warped,  I took a wet towel and dabbed it over the curved sections and put weights on those places to straighten it out.  Once I have my building. Board made, I will move the false keel to the building board to make sure it's as true as I can get it.

 
I am surprised at how big the ship is!  It will be very impressive to look at through out the entire build.  I did talk to my wife and got the approval to get a nice table saw to mill the wood I will need.  I will be ordering it in January.
 
Jeff
 
 

The horde (seven children and grandchildren and two dogs) have left my house. Time for a post.
 
I have completed the port side upper planking. Remarkably, at least to me, after making a few small adjustments to the framing, the planking worked out as it was supposed to, using the planking widths called for in the plans. I must admit that I chickened out on the tabs at the gunports. All in all, although I'm not entirely satisfied with the result, I am not really dissatisfied with the overall appearance of the planking. I will try to do a bit better on the starboard side. 
 
The photos show the planking after sanding and the application of a coat of Wipe-on Poly.

My resin castings from Syren arrived a couple of days ago and they are great.
 
I can't believe sharp and nice the fine detail is. They came in a nice sturdy box
which they were returned to and tucked safely away until needed. 
 

 
 

 
I also received the chapter two laser cut set in cherry. These are my fall back
if I have issues when I attempt to scratch them.

 
The gun ports have all been painted red ochre so hopefully some planking will get done this weekend.

Well done. That was a lot of work.

Looks good.

It looks great!

almost there 🙂

Valentin Tyklyuk from Moscow - owner of the FIRST box of the kit "MOREL - Nikonov's Secret Vessel"! 

Thnks

Coming back from a several month break to work on another project for my Dad. I built a model of the USS Thorn dd-988 which he served on from 1984-87.

(note, I know it doesn't have  have hull numbers in the picture, that was a whole other debacle that has now been fixed) 
 
 Fresh from the Thorn and chomping at the bit to resume my project on the Winchelsea with some new stuff! Happy to say, House Hold 6 has approved my purchase of a Byrnes Table Saw for the purpose of milling lumber for this project(and other stuff) and my Grandparents contributed a professional building Slip. Excited to get back after it! 
 
-Joe
Just an Army dude that likes ships.

The next thing to do are the black whales. I dyed the strips in advance, so I don't have  to paint them. We will see, if that was a good idea or not. The disadvantage is, that you have to glue them very careful into position, because you can not sand the surface later. And no glue on top of the surface. And if you moisten the strips fot bending, you will dissolve the mordant.
But I prefer the look.
 

Thank you very much.

Well done. That was a lot of work.

Welcome to MSW 

End of the toothpick studding.
End of the nails studding on one broadside.
So far im though happy from the final effect. But now i would do it a little better.

My boxwood carvings arrived today. OMG Beautiful! The detail in these tiny pieces is exquisite. For others who order their boxwood carvings from Jack you will be happy,happy,happy. 
 
I am continuing on with planking.

Welcome!
To answer your question: yes, you can certainly do it that way, and many modelers do (I have). In fact, I don't think that the method you describe first is actually all that common, except maybe within the kit designs of particular companies. When attaching the false keel prior to planking, it is helpful to cut a rabbet into the profile former. Use the search function to find topics with rabbet in the title to find help on that subject.
 
Cheers!
 

It seems most of the kits have instructions that have you plank the hull and then cut out the over-lap of the planking coming from both sides of the hull. My question is after the bulkheads are installed ,couldn't the keel  from bow to stern be installed and when you plank you could plank right flush to the keel instead of using a knife to cut away the over wood to lay the keel.???

It has been a while since I updated the log but installing bulkheads and fairing a hull just is not very exciting.  The fist step in permanently installing the bulkeads is making a building board.  This will secure the keel so that the bulkheads (hopefully) will be installed plumb and square.  I was able to reuse my building board from Atalanta and simply glued Swallow's waterline plan to the board.  I secured two strips of wood on either side of the midline with oversize holes to that they could be snugged against the keel.

The bulkheads were cut from 1/4" basswood plywood.  I plan on constructing the lower deck amidships so the center of bulkheads F through 14 only extend to the level of the lower deck.  The other bulkheads extend to the upper deck.  

The bulkheads were installed using the same technique seen in the half hull project, clamping them to machinist squares.  I also keep a small level on the bulkhead while the glue sets.  This becomes most important with the bulkheads that only extend to the lower deck; there is only a narrow slot so it is easy to get them out of plumb.  Once all the bulkheads were in place, spacers were installed to stiffen the hull in preparation for fairing.


I use a combination of techniques to fair the hull, including sanding discs on the Dremel, sanding blocks and files.  One thing which is very helpful for the concave surfaces in the stern is rolling sandpaper around one of the rubber sleeves from my spindle sander.  Before I owned the spindle sander I would use a shot glass.  The key in fairing a hull is taking a lot of breaks.  It is too easy (for me at least) to remove too much wood otherwise.  On this hull you can see a few places that happened.  Those spots were built back up with strips of walnut from the scrap bin.  One techniqe I use to check for a fair run is to take strips of masking tape and run them along the hull.  Another useful technique is to run a marker along the bulkhead.  As the hull approaches fair, the marker is gradually sanded away. 
 
At this point I am reasonably satisfied with the shape of the hull.  Several of the spacers become loose during the fairing process.  Rather than replacing them, I ran a ribband along the hull, gluing it in place and then securing it more with zip ties.  The red marks represent the wale and the bottom of the rail.  The plans show the gunports extending to the rail but the model shows an additional row of planking above the ports.  I have not decided which direction to go at this point.  Neither the plans nor the model are "as built" and it was common to add the extra row of planking to help protect the crew.  

Welcome to Model Ship World 

Hi Alan.  Forgive me sir, wasn't sure what Travis was saying so I answered him. In the mean time good sir I have become retired and have spent the last year in adding a extensin and gas heat to the shop. I have done a little work on Montagu so am really looking fwd to spending a lot more time on her. Life sometimes just gets in the way. Wish it was better but am happy with it. Gary

Post 18
 
I have now completed the planking. Not in Chuck's league by any means - there are a few places where the planks could be tighter but on the whole it looks OK. Its all a learning exercise for me.

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
Time to move on to the treenails now
 

Cheers guys, and Happy Christmas!
 
The machine wasn't cheap (hence the business loan) due to the quality laser tube, plus you do not just buy the machine, you also need the fume extractor and special compressor for the airflow. I also bought a special airflow nozzle that focuses the air better, so the cutting area on the parts should look cleaner. But I haven't attached this yet, as it requires me to manual focus rather than auto focus the laser.
 
I am thinking of perhaps added those laser cut pear ladders in with the Speedy kit, rather than the standard Amati fittings, if I can fit them on the 1mm pear sheet..

SO! 
The first box of our new woodenkit is ready!