dgbot

Krug, if you do not bring that beauty to Manitowoc when finished I will be very upset you are doing an outstanding job.
David B

Mark, I use vinegar as well. The time is about 1/2 hour. The vinegar leaves a slight residue from the reaction with the brass. Acetone cleans it up pretty good.

Time time to get serious again, and return to my little boat.
 
And thanks a lot Ray, cutting the rabbet like your method worked like a charm!
 
First i cutted al along the bearding and rabbet line with a sharp X-acto blade. While using the steel ruler as a safeguard for not damaging the keel.
 

 
At the stem, i used the french curves as a safeguard.
 

 
Then i used a small chisel to cut out the wood between the two lines.
 

 
And afterwards i used a small file to deepen the rabbet, very slowly.
 

 
I did this for the two sides, and i am quite pleased with the result.
 

 
Finally i have to remove the excess of wood at the stern, to do this i used my proxxon with a disc sander.
Slowly and very carefully i removed the wood between the bearding line and the rabbet.
 

Hi all
 
Things have been a bit slow around here.  I had serious storage problems in my garage, so i decided it was time to do something about it.
 
I wanted to be able to store all my tools for shipmodeling, and still have a nice workbench to operate them on.
 
So i've decided to create my own "mobile" workshop. It's very flexible now and i can move it outside for the "dirty" sawing work.  That keeps the admiral very happy!
 

 
The inside looks like this :
 

 
I still have to make trays for the spaces in the upper corners, to store the small stuff in, like the one i made in the middle.
 
On the side, there'll be a larger tray over the whole length of the workbench in which i'll be able to store some wood in. 
 

Working on the midships bulkheads, those need to be hollowed out to form the inner cabin.
 
I first drilled some wholes in the bulkheads.
 

 
Those wholes permitted me to insert the saw of the scroll saw. I then sawed along the line of the cabin floor and the lines for the thickness of the frame. Leaving an upper beam for strength, it'll come off afterwards, when the planking will be done.
 

 
Afterwards i used the drum sander of my Dremel to roughly sand the inner contour of the cabin.
 

 
And finishing off with the file.
 

 
Dry fitted the finished midship bulkheads.
 

Well, after another long silence - finally an update!
 
I'm continuing to make and fit hull frames, and am finally starting look like that job will be finished soon; only a few more to go now.  The next job after that will be to fair up the inside of the hull as needed and fit some stiffening in the form of stringers before I start to fair up the external hull for planking.
 
Here are a few photos of the current situation.
 
John
 

 

 

 

Yes, sir!
 
John

I've rough finished all three fife rails. I've set them in position for the pics, but I have to fine finish them next before gluing them..

Spoke like a true follower of the darkside
David B

Your railing and coppering look great. I am glad you and your wive are better.  The flu is not nice.
David B

Ok- it looks a little rough, but I just have a bit of fine tuning for the Knights head. Any advice before I glue?

Today, I started by staining the Bench faces and the floor Boards, that were installed yesterday. I then installed the seat tops and the Cockpit Coamings . While that was drying, I made the rest of the floor Boards and cut lines in the rear deck to simulate single planks. ( fortunatly the glue on the ply is dark in color ) so when I got thru the top layer I ended up with caulking lines . I then stained the rear Deck as well as the floor Boards. The rear Deck, Bulkhead trim pieces and floor Boards have not been glued in yet. 

You are a brave fellow.
David B

Spoke like a true follower of the darkside
David B

I have finished the garboard and it looks pretty much straight I hope time will tell.  It looks like it doesn't fit right it does just made it too thick clamped too tight made dings.  I love sanding.
 
Cut planking to day don't think there's enough but it a start.
 
Thank you Tim
 
TJ

Ollie ... Looks like it is almost time to think about a case. I throw that idea out there because all that work is sooooo nice and it would be a shame to break something when you dust it or if you have children about the place at any time. And believe me dust will come from America and it will bring all it's relatives just because you have one of those sailing ship models.  I know it sounds crazy but ask the rest of the boys and girls!!  You are doing some great work there Ollie and I would like to see it last!
 
Tom

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 69 – Final lower deck framing/
Waterways
 
In the first picture the last ledge of the lower deck framing is being marked for cutting.
 

 
Once all of the beams and carlings were set, the remaining ledges went quickly – a morning’s work.  These are 9” wide and 7” deep – hard pine on the original like the rest of the deck framing – except for the hanging knees – white or live oak.
 
The next picture shows the completed framing – looking aft.
 

 
Sometimes it is hard to decide from which direction these pictures were taken.  The fore and aft ends of this deck are very similar.  The next picture shows the area around the main hatch and main mast.
 

 
At this stage the deck members – beams, carlings, ledges – have been sanded flat and finish sanded.  All traces of the bolt glue are gone.  Below is a picture taken above the foremast area.
 

 
No time to celebrate - on to the waterways.  These monsters are 15” square – hard pine on the original – as long a log as possible.  The first picture shows the foremost section on the starboard side.
 

 
The outboard face has to be beveled back to fit tight against the frames and flat on the deck beams.  There is a slight gap between the waterway and the tops of the lodging kneses.  This was discussed earlier.  The next picture shows a closer view..
 

 
In this picture the section has been glued in and clamped.  As many copper wire bolts as the interference with the clamps would allow were then inserted and epoxy-glued from both ends.  When the clamps are removed the remaining bolts will be installed down into the beams and through the frames.  The hook scarph connecting this piece to the next section was fit before installing the forward piece.  I wish I had made this piece longer to get the joint into a straighter area.  It was hard to close on the curve.  The next picture shows a wire beam bolt being inserted in the next section.
 

 
The pin coming through in the lower left corner is a marker for the hole drilled from the outside so I can find it to fill it with a bolt.  The outsides of the frames are becoming “bolt-dense.”  The air gaps above the lodging knees between the beams and ledges show clearly in this picture.
 
The last picture shows the second section of waterway after filing off the bolt heads and epoxy.
 

 
The waterway has been sanded smooth.  A 12” wide by 10” deep “standing strake” will be installed along the top of the waterway.  A thick “binding strake” – the outer strake of planking will butt against the side of the waterway and bolted horizontally through it as well as into the deck beams. I believe a “margin plank” was installed inboard of the binding strake, but I am still researching this.
 
 
 Ed

Gary, I always try to find a way to complicate my life

If we look forward, the next exposition will be this autumn . This morning  was the press conference and I tried a presentation for the occasion.
I will rework the name card later.

Ok;  I haven't posted in awhile due mainly to a really bad case of the flu that had me, then the admiral, down for the count for about 3 weeks last month.  Needless to say, very little progress has been made, but I am now continuing with my "bulwark trim panel strip" that I started awhile back.  These are 0.5 x 5mm walnut strips, 16 inches long, laid out on my enlarged copies of the Campell plans, with 1/32" x 1/16" x 5 mm long  pre-stained basswood vertical uprights glued along the length of the strip.  I then use a small wooden jig that fits around each upright to drill holes that are then connected together to make the oval cutouts.
 
Four of these will be made, two aft (p&s) and two forward (p&s).  There is a small amount of material at the top that will be sanded away to align with the top of the bulwarks;  hence the ovals' offset towards the bottom of the strip.  I am following Campells plans, and each oval panel is not regularly spaced, and vary in length.  (I am accounting for the negligible curvature of the hull in this area).
 
As can be seen, some (many?) of the oval panels are out of shape;  those beyond repair will be cut out of the strip and remade...  This is a work in progress, and I'm getting better shaping these things as I go along.  I'll do a final Q.C. check before affixing the strips... they won't be perfect, just something I can live with, and better to attempt than ignore!! 

Same here Gaetan.  Congtatulations you deserved it.
David B

I have rigged my braces to main yard. went well, just need to finish them to belaying pins etc..  top braces next and onto other bits such as cluelines and sheets..  new members - click on images for large versions..  
 
Later, Ollie

... Dear friends, this is it ... These supports are enough for the modelers with a lot of experience in the hull planking... but never enough sufficient ... This is a single planking method , which means that there is no work repairing ! Putty is allowed, but only in a very small quantities ... To achieve that the planks fit into its place properly, it is necessary to prepare an accurate and stable base for them ...
 
...And this is what I suggest to everyone, no matter how experienced modeler is : ...

My advice is: make a stern and bow blocks... make them out of soft wood ... but not only that, but make the fillers between other bulkheads, wherever you see that it is necessary ... It is essential to create a stable, solid surface for the planks ... Each plank must fit properly into its place, any twisting needs to be disabled  ...
 
 ... I did it like this :                                      

The servo tray was dismantled and parts like screw inserts salvaged from it today in prep for making a new one to support the sliding brace winches and semaphore arm heads'l sheeter.
The new assembly will fit easily through the main hatch and be easier to access, adjust, and maintain than the previous set-up as the new one doesn't extend up under the deck.
The two winches "face" aft because all the braces come through the deck aft of the mainmast.
 
  Plan for new servo tray set-up
 
  3D model of new set-up
 
  The old servo tray.
  disassembled.
 
The electronics; fuses, connectors, etc;  actually won't change at all, all I have to do is attached the existing wiring harness to the new servo tray.
 
I'll actually be making two of these, Macedonian will be getting exactly the same thing.
 
Another experiment I tried today was self-tending bowlines.  These couple of sail trials showed that bowlines would probably add a a lot to the models upwind ability.  I was trying to figure out how to operate them when, just for giggles I gave this idea a try on the model.  The bowlines attach to the sail in the normal manner and are run to a block forward.  Instead of going to a pin on deck, the line turns back and attaches to the yard's opposite end, ie starboard bowline attaches to the yard on the port side,  The yard then pulls the bowline as it's braced.  The line is adjusted to be just slack with the yards squared.  The geometry of the thing causes the line to tighten on the windward side as the looard side remains slack.  These will be relatively thin light colored lines, so while they'll add to the complexity of the rig's appearance, it won't be so obvious to the casual observer that something is not quite prototypical.
 

Today, I continued  with getting the Cockpit completed. I started by making 5/8 X 3/32" strips to go between the Bench seat face and the bilge opening. then I made the bench seat faces ou of 1 /64" birch ply. I then made the rear deck , then the trim molding for the 2 cockpit bulheads. I stained the bech seats a cherry stain, She is starting to take shap. Next will be to glue the bench seats first then the Cockpit moldings than the rear deck. On a side note, I went to my local Hobby shop in Spokane WA., and was told first that my scale is on the small size.( unless I want to spend a ton)  Second that I am too far along in the build to add the Gear ( A remodel is not an option and so is the Radio) So  I will still take her for a Free Sail at a nearby Boat Launch that is wide and shallow. ( so She cant get away , but will be able to enjoy a beatiful Starboard tack for about 80 to 100 yards. ( enough time to get some cool Photos anyway ) In the Cockpit only the floor pieces and Bench faces have een glued . Next will be to stain the bench faces, Install the seats and the cockpit Coaming . then I will varnish the wood in the cockpit . Here are the results