EJ_L

Before I start my build log some information about the real La Créole and
the data from which my model will build.
 
The La Créole was a 24-gun corvette of the French Navy. The corvette
carried 4 x 18 pdr guns and 20 x 30 pdr carronades.
Her plans were drawn by P. M. Leroux in 1827. She was launched in Cherbourg in
May 1829. The ship took part in the French invasion of Mexico in 1838, and most
notably in the Bombardment of San Juan de Ulloa before French troops disembarked and captured the city of Veracruz.

There is a fine shipyard model on display at the Musée national de la Marine in Paris which is shown by many photos in the book of Jean Boudriot (in French). 
 
I use the following sources for building my model of the corvette:
Jean Boudriot - Historique de la corvette 1650-1850: La
Créole, 1827
 
 
Now the images of beginning:
 
 
 
To be continued...
 
Best regards
Johann
 
 
 
 
 
 

I agree that sometimes we're gluttons for punishment.  And actually I do like knowing when I've messed up as it points out where my skills/attention/etc need improving.   
 
Anyway, destruction went well.  Just holes in the planking to fill.  It seems that nothing really sticks to Wipe-on-Poly and it cleaned up nicely.  I've sanded those areas down to bare wood, made a new cutting template and will be proceeding (and remembering to take photos) on the morrow.  And I'll get the rudder coat on this time. 

Hi Mark.
 
I really don't know what to say....apart from....Noooooooooo! A lesson learned, is a lesson learned, however; so, I guess as harsh as it sounds, you have to be happy with it.
 
We're all here to support, watch and admire.
 
Cheers and all the best!
 
Patrick

Well... I did the self-beating and now that I've calmed myself down, I took a long hard look.  No excuses.  It's not right.  So...  once again.. DE-CONSTRUCTION TIME.    Stay tuned.

I had that cut-off saw and binned it.  Sloppy tolerances on the miter and cutting head were the reason.  Even the markings on the mitre were off.

Good to see these pictures she is really looking great even at this early stage,looking forward to starting mine in a few months,I think your build will be a real help to me all the best with your build!

Since I've decided to cut my own spiled planks out of sheetwood for this project, the scroll saw is looking really nice...  Otherwise, I'm going to be cutting each plank with an X-Acto blade!  My problem would be trying to find a place to store the saw...  As for the Dremel, I know without a doubt that it's a good idea.  I'm trying to find that balance between getting the tools I need and not worrying my wife by buying a ton of tools right off the bat before the kit even arrives!  For some reason, I like the analog calipers.  Taking vernier scale measurements just feels right for this project!  

Mates,
 
Thanks for your clicks and comments.
 
================
 
Ferit, yes noted, thanks for your advice. This has occurred to me, but I have not yet thought of how to make those adjustments. Yes a single wire clip length won't work. Thanks for mentioning this issue.
 
That was my reason, initially, for pre spooling the deadeyes, then lacing shrouds one at a time, adjusting as I went along. But the first one was too frustrating. So the wire clip seems much easier - so far.
 
I think that I will need to make several separate wire clips. Then use those same wires (in proper order) for the other side. This would also assure the same drift on each side?
 
Kevin, thanks for your very kind post.
 
Regarding the sails; my concerns (along with rigging) is that I will have to have them stiched by a 3rd unknown party. There is a sewing school nearby I could contract someone?
 
My only big "fear" is that if they (sails) look too "fake" and stitching is too out of scale,  it would detract from the other details I have been attempting with this build. IMHO sails actually look amazing or they look well Hmmmm. Certainly difficult. Furling (hiding) them all is also an option. 
 
I should fly to Boston and have Frank's (fmodajr) Admiral do a second set for me ha ha. The sails on his are really special ! She did a superb job. And his running rigging is well (:-)))
 
PS: I did buy the same material, and thread. He PM'd me with the source etc, We shall see. I am tempted just very unsure. I also have all the needed dimensions. Karl's (Karleop), also beautiful Vasa, with sails, shared all the dimensions in his build log. It was always my intention to fully rig it, until now....
 
Again mates thanks for your suggestions
 
Michael

Hi mates,
 
So I made a mistake (that’s new for me) – attempted to attach the first foremast shroud after having first laced the two chainplate deadeyes. You were kind in not remarking on this error J
 
It became/was too labor intensive/frustrating to loop the shroud, and also trying a “throat seize” and then adjust the deadeyes spacing.
 
Went back to visit Frank’s Wasa (fmodajr) and on his #340 he had made metal spacers. This is apparently the much-preferred method.
 
So bent wire for spacers, but in my case the upper deadeye kept rotating upside-down as I tried adding the shroud.
 
SO added this small extra metal “U” hook so that deadeye would stop rotating. Just sharing this small bit that will reduce this frustration when I do this part of the build.
 
Cheers as always
 
Michael
 

Lawrence thanks for your vote of confidence (:-)
 
 
NEW Vasa Kit coming Hmmmmm 
 
http://www.deagostini.com/it/collezioni/vasa/
 
=================
 
Click on the pages and they open up
 
http://www.deagostini.com/it/collezioni/vasa/sfogliatura/index.html
 
----------------------------------------
 
From Fred H on the Vasa Forum site (PS: his link does NOT work) so found other sources just above.
 
Hello all!

I am pleased to be able to let you know that there is a new wooden kit of Vasa now available in some European markets. It is a plank-on-bulkhead kit in scale 1:65 (finished length 109 cm). It is a partworks format, where you subscribe and receive a few pieces each week or month (depending on the market) over a three-year period. The kit was developed by an Italian company, deAgostini, who specialize in this sort of partworks approach, with the kit design and production carried out by Artesania Latina of Malaga, Spain (actual production of parts in China). The kit is being released in Scandinavia by Editions Atlas in a subscription format; it is available in Italy at newstands or by subscription. For more information, seewww.editionsatlas.se/collection/VBU/Majestatiska-vasa.html.

You will see there that the model was developed in cooperation with our museum. In reality this means that we provided the most current digital documentation of the ship and assisted in the kit design, as well as providing text and illustrations for the written material that accompanies the kit. I will be building it as it is released, and will try to post here about it.

Fred

All these tools will get you off to a great start but the most important tool we can use, And it takes a bit to master and that is Patience! Take your time. It's not a hobby if things are rushed. I'm sure you will do just fine All the best with your first new build.

I use Titebond II. If you need (and you will) it can be removed with alcohol. I think Titebond III is pretty much permenant
I use Titebond III to make cutting boards. It does not let go!!!

I would agree with all the suggestions on here but keep in mind that most of these model ships take a long time to build and there are many things that do not need to bepurchased at once. Spread it out as the stages of construction demand so its a bit easier on the wallet.
 
Also I would suggest to pick out a couple different measuring devices. Both a rigid ruler and a flexible measuring tape such as one a taylor would use is advisable. Make sure they have both standard and metric units as depending on where you kit was made you may have to do a lot of converting back and forth.
 
As to the light, for years I only had the bench light with magnifer but lately I have been looking into the head band magnifyer for working with tiny details. I do not think I will give up my bench light as I need the extra light but I admit that I do not use the magnifyer much as it is akward and does get in the way more often than not.

I appreciate the suggestions, everyone!  I am sure I'll be adding some of the tools you guys mentioned to my collection as I progress through the build.  I ended up getting a standard swing-arm lamp, and I put a 850-lumen 5000K natural daylight LED bulb in it.  I think it will provide plenty of light for my work.  I have also purchased everything on my list, as well as a dressmaker's tape measure, a small 3-inch vise, some extra tiny drill bits, some map pins, some 3/4" spring clamps, rubber bands, toothpicks, and a bottle of rubbing alcohol.  The sandpaper grits I selected were 100, 150, 220, and 400.  I ended up going with Zap-A-Gap glue (with some Z-Ends), and the wood glue I selected was Titebond III.  I am also probably going to pick up an Optivisor and a helping hands with a magnifier.  For now, it's just a matter of waiting for the kit.  Since this will be my first model, I went ahead and spent the money on the Lauck Street Shipyard Lady Nelson DVD set.  While it was expensive, I think it will be beneficial to watch a step-by-step build of the exact same kit I will be constructing.  I'm sure I'll learn a lot, and the skills I develop can be used on future builds, as well.  Between the DVDs and the wealth of information here on the forum, I think I stand a good chance of producing an aesthetically pleasing model that I can display in my home once I'm done.  Thanks again for your comments and suggestions!  Happy modeling!  

If you get the Optivisor, I use the "Quasar" LED Lightattachent:
 
 
http://www.amazon.com/Quasar-Led-Lighting-System-Optivisors/dp/B0058ECQ46
 
Or other sources have it;
 
It has 6 LED'S around the edges so gives uniform shadowless light on your work.
 
I'm just getting started in model building but have used it for years for clock repair.
 
Don't get the single light Xenon bulb attachment - bulky, sticks out so it bumps things if you are working close & can throw shadows.
 
Richard

Hello all, after a few busy days, now I get a bit of time to rest and to write something about Cog of Ragusa to you ...
First of all I am grateful for the warm welcome and visiting our website ... Donfarr, jazzchip ... thanks a lot ,
thanks for the likes ...
... 'Cog' is a project that we were building a year or two before its realization ... the basic guiding was votive fresco
of her from the sixteenth century ... lower its black and white photo of the fresco ... the silhouettes of people
on the bow and the mast top were very helpful. We took that they were around 1.75m high and we made the Ragusian Cog
reconstruction ...
... So, after two years of work, this is what we get: the text that we wrote about this type of Cog is following
and is copied from our site:
 
Cog is the war and merchant ship in the North Sea, the Mediterranean and the Adriatic Sea, with a big lead
and two small reserve masts, whose main characteristic is high and tight bow tower forward with a almost horizontal
triangular deck. One feature of this ship are the side openings for boarding horses and cattle and it is designed
primarly for transporting army. It is mentioned for the first time in the 11th century, and across the Mediterranean
in the 13th century. These ships were initially inaccessible thanks to the impregnable castle. Together with Cogs
often sailed caravels and carrack.
 
... This is a model with completely furnished interiors, store and cabins,which makes it very beautiful and
interesting. The keel and the posts are made of solid walnut wood, like all the elements below the deck and
the deck. The sails are embroidered on the cloth. In the box there are 11 plates laser cut.
There are bars and all the necessary material. The model is designed for experienced modeler, but beginners, with a little
effort and following the instructions do not have problems with the construction of her ... You will really enjoy
in the realization of this model.
 
... Now, for the first hand, here are some photos of the prototype of the model-made in parallel with the project ....
I was very cheerful to say something about the way of making the assembly kit ... it's what I intend to do next ...
 
Best regards

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

I seem to remember a reference that stated the drift between the upper and lower deadeyes should be 1.5 to 2 times the diameter of the deadeye.  I do not remember where I read this though.
 
Regards,

Hi Mates,
 
Getting the second set of foremast chainplate deadeyes strung. Then looked at the 1/1 for a reference. Then also looked at the 1/10th. The upper deadeyes on each are at diff. heights. 
 
The 1/1 has them rising to just above the second upper railings/ The 1/10th stay well below. So where do I loop the shrouds?
 
Looked at other builds here, as well as the Vasa profile plan sheet. They all seem to indicate the lower positions for the upper deadeyes seem correct. I also checked Clayton’s his are lower as well.
 
So, if I decide to follow the 1/1 photo I would have to restring them all (ropes would be too short). Hmmmm. Should I write Fred H. and tell him that HE made a mistake ha ha ..... 
 
Cheers,
 
Michael

 
 
 

I would agree with all the suggestions on here but keep in mind that most of these model ships take a long time to build and there are many things that do not need to bepurchased at once. Spread it out as the stages of construction demand so its a bit easier on the wallet.
 
Also I would suggest to pick out a couple different measuring devices. Both a rigid ruler and a flexible measuring tape such as one a taylor would use is advisable. Make sure they have both standard and metric units as depending on where you kit was made you may have to do a lot of converting back and forth.
 
As to the light, for years I only had the bench light with magnifer but lately I have been looking into the head band magnifyer for working with tiny details. I do not think I will give up my bench light as I need the extra light but I admit that I do not use the magnifyer much as it is akward and does get in the way more often than not.

I would agree with all the suggestions on here but keep in mind that most of these model ships take a long time to build and there are many things that do not need to bepurchased at once. Spread it out as the stages of construction demand so its a bit easier on the wallet.
 
Also I would suggest to pick out a couple different measuring devices. Both a rigid ruler and a flexible measuring tape such as one a taylor would use is advisable. Make sure they have both standard and metric units as depending on where you kit was made you may have to do a lot of converting back and forth.
 
As to the light, for years I only had the bench light with magnifer but lately I have been looking into the head band magnifyer for working with tiny details. I do not think I will give up my bench light as I need the extra light but I admit that I do not use the magnifyer much as it is akward and does get in the way more often than not.

I would agree with all the suggestions on here but keep in mind that most of these model ships take a long time to build and there are many things that do not need to bepurchased at once. Spread it out as the stages of construction demand so its a bit easier on the wallet.
 
Also I would suggest to pick out a couple different measuring devices. Both a rigid ruler and a flexible measuring tape such as one a taylor would use is advisable. Make sure they have both standard and metric units as depending on where you kit was made you may have to do a lot of converting back and forth.
 
As to the light, for years I only had the bench light with magnifer but lately I have been looking into the head band magnifyer for working with tiny details. I do not think I will give up my bench light as I need the extra light but I admit that I do not use the magnifyer much as it is akward and does get in the way more often than not.

A boxed modeler's tool set may not be that great of an investment (I know this from personal experience). I never use the heavy-duty knife handle that came with the set, or most of the specialty blades. Instead, I use a regular el cheapo craft knife handle and buy #11 blades in 100-packs (much, much cheaper that way). The included gouges are next to worthless; at some point you will probably want to pick up a quality set of gouges, and these are truly one of the 'you get what you pay for' tools of the hobby.
 
Now, as to a few things the boxed set lacks ...
 
1. Wire-sized drill bits. These break all the time. Buy them in bulk, in a variety of sizes.
2. Round-nose pliers. Very useful for forming all kinds of stuff out of wire, such as eyebolts.
3. Several gauges of blackened, annealed wire, for forming stuff with your round-nosed pliers.
4. Forceps, straight and curved tips.
5. A variety of tweezers.
 
And here's another up-vote for headband magnifiers. Indispensable, IMO, especially for older eyes. Like mine.
 
These are tools I use often. For tools that are used less frequently, it is handy to live next door to a modeler with a fully-equipped shop, so that you can dash over and borrow things.  

Take a trip to the local version of the Dollar Store:
Wooden clothes pins: regular size and small (<1 inch).  They work well as clamps and can be modified to whatever shape you need. Metal bull clips Elastic bands - for clamping Small C-clamps Dowels, other strips of wood.  Actually, pretty good quality.  If nothing else, they make good handles for custom tools. Tooth picks Wire and nails - not model quality, but good for making jigs, bending patterns, or as clamps Paints - Not sure if I'd use them on a model, but I'm using the cheap acrylic to practice air-brushing Paint brushes - good for cleaning up chips.  You may find some that are actually good for painting Pins, needles, threaders, crochet hooks, tweezers (probably need to file the points) Storage containers - all sorts for small parts and tools Card board and foam board for making templates and light duty jigs Alcohol, Q-tips and cotton swaps for wiping up  School geometry set - for protractor and 45 and 30/60 triangles. ( A GOOD set of dividers are useful for transferring sizes form drawings to parts )   Pliers/cutters - may work for you, but cheap enough that you can modify the ends if needed for other shapes. Glues - may find a brand name you can trust to last for the long life of a model.  Other stuff ok for jigs, etc. Tape  
There are also many things you can make:
Bench hook - could double as a shooting board (for plane or sanding block) Rigging tools (hooks, pushers, etc) V Block bench extension  (for scroll saw work) Since you WILL want more tools ( just admit it now, we understand), make a wish list and buy them when they come up on sale.  MicroMark and Model Shipways frequently have deep sales.  
 
For further items:
Soldering iron - for making metal fittings and for bending planks (it's heat that allows wood to bend easier, not moisture) Small bench vice - preferably with a rotating head.  (like Pana-vice, but there are much less expensive versions available) Third-hand with magnifier Dental picks  Looping pliers Jeweler's saw Lastly, a comfortable chair!

i would 100% get a soldering iron to bend the planks. also a metre long piece of plumbing pic pipe, glued and capped at one end to pre-soak the planks before heating and bending with the iron. also a dremel is very useful if the budget allows.
 
cheers
chris

More water resistant - especially Titebond II - I think the bond is stronger - For me, it dries hard and sands well.
I think it can be diluted if you need a thinner medium, but the limit is probably 1 part water to 9 parts PVA.
 
The open time is reasonable.  The bond is actually stronger than the wood it holds - if the surfaces to be jointed are close fitting. That is a skill be focus on.
 
A rule that I use is - the more force used in clamping - the stronger the bond.   The demonstrator in the Gerstner tool chest instructional video gave advise that I think is wrong about tight clamping squeezing out too much glue making the joint weaker.  If there is a mono layer of glue completely covering both surfaces to be joined - there is enough glue - You will crush the wood surface on the clamp side and ruin the surface before you could squeeze out too much glue.  If you are gap filling  - there will be no force to expel that glue either.
 
I totally concur about an Optivisor  vs  a swing arm lamp with a magnifying lens.  I have two - one oval fluorescent  and one incandescent - that I replaced with a spiral fluorescent.   I do do use the magnifying function for either.   I suggest a couple of swing arm lamps that are just lights - use the brightest LED bulbs you can fit-   The base can either clamp to the edge of the bench top - screw into it - or there are lamps that will mount on a vertical surface - like the wall behind the bench - which is probably more efficient for position and use of bench space - if the bench is is fixed location.
Low cost swing arm lamps tend to be frustrating because the pivot point locations tend not to hold their positions.  The lens tends to just add weight to the end of the lever arm and add to this problem.