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Trussben

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Trussben

  1. Here is a shot from above for Druxey showing better the run of the floor fillers. Ben
  2. Here are all 5 pieces of the keelson scarphed together and installed. They were also bolted down through every floor timber with 1 1/4" "bamboo" bolts. Now the Stemson needs to be made. Ben
  3. Thanks Druxey, I have also started making up the keelson parts, lots of scarph joints! Ben
  4. Thanks for all the likes. Patterns for the remaining framing have been made to help with this area, they had to be juxtaposed in ACAD as the DOF plan is from Cygnet and doesn't exactly match the Pegasus plan or the TFFM Mylar.
  5. Agree with the above, boxwood - well the castello version is more dense than Swiss pear, so pear should bend a little easier but is a little more prone to damage, but not by much.
  6. You guys can be sooo reassuring at times, LOL.
  7. And here are both counter timbers installed and reinforced with a cross spall. I will now start building the framing from the DOF plan to fill in the sides. Ben
  8. Thanks Greg, I'm thinking of glueing in a couple of temporary spalls across them for a little bit of security. Ben
  9. Thanks Druxey, I haven't sanded the bevel into the aft outside of the timbers, I thought I'd wait until all of the counter timbers were installed before I do that to make sure they all fair together. Ben
  10. The side counter timbers are being installed in the next picture, the wooden square you see was made to be exactly 12"3' wide and the same height as the toptimber height from the plan, this was then taped down to the build board exactly 5"3' back from the aft perpendicular as per TFFM. I am hoping that doing it this way will ensure the these counter timbers are in the exact right place. Ben
  11. I used an extremely sharp v gouge on my Pegasus, I practiced first on some scrap taking very small amounts of cuts over multiple passes, slowly but surely I got a really good result. Practice and a very sharp tool! Ben
  12. Good Grief, even using 80 grit paper and course blocks this really is taking some time. I'm am going to go to a final grit of 220 below the Wales which won't be planked but I'm thinking of leaving the framing at the Wales and above at 150 grit so the glue to hold the planking on will have a bit of a tooth to grip to - anybody else do this?? Ben
  13. That's a beautiful figurehead Danny, Janos did you proud. I think I will be getting a commission done for my Pegasus figurehead as I'm not a carver either. Ben
  14. My Arm is getting sore from the sanding but one side is pretty much faired, now to start on the other side ben
  15. Thanks Chris! Greg - I find I can " hear " it better than I can feel it! The sanding block ( 80 grit ) makes a note when I'm there! Anybody else do this by ear?? Maybe I'm just weird! Not the first time this has been true, as an engineer I've worked on a lot of equipment that I know more about the way the equipment is running from its sounds and the vibration I can feel through my feet and hands. Ben
  16. Hull fairing well under way, if you look close you may be able to see the pencil marks that I am using to look for high/low spots. Ben
  17. Thanks Augie, Greg - I have noticed some movement over the last two weeks since we rapidly went from hard winter to spring in a short space of time! Hopefully it will normalize. Ben
  18. Nice work Alan, I have tried the black paper route as well, sometimes with good results, but I honestly prefer either using a pencil or archival marker nowadays along with titbond III glue that dries a little darker anyways. I will watch your progress with great interest. Ben
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