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Overworked724

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Everything posted by Overworked724

  1. Overworked724
    I agree with Lou. Speaking as someone who is constantly too hard on himself!!!
  2. Overworked724
    My degrees are in chemistry...not English!! Why do you think the elements in periodic table only have 1-2 letters? Chemists can’t spell worth a darn. But...we do have all the solutions. 😆 (Bad pun)
  3. Overworked724
    Main boom is in. Realized the block I used for the traveller rod on the transom is too big...something to remember for my next build. Not a surprise, really. I had noticed that my inner stay for the jib boom was the wrong dimension as well...used too small diameter rope. But I’ll live with it...I still like the look. 😁 Beads for the collar I got from Hobby Lobby. See below for courtesy pics. I’ll add ropes later on the cleat and traveler. And a bit of detail using my newly made rope coils on the foredeck. Moving on...!!!!
  4. Overworked724
    Precisely! Simulating that look is ideal. But the two ways to achieve it are to bevel the edges of the planks before you lay them, or score the groove after planking/sanding...I think you’d be doing the latter. I was too nervous to try that when I first started the build for fear of making uneven or ragged grooves. But as woodfiller is my new best friend, I think I would be more confident to try it now. Following with interest!
  5. Overworked724
    I hate autocorrect. Cleat...not clete.
  6. Overworked724
    I think you are doing a brilliant job, mate! If you are going to paint the hull (which I think would be a sin when the work looks so clean), you may want to ensure you leave some grooves between the planks after you’ve sanded the hull. This will ensure the planks stand out even after paint. Think I saw someone do that after sanding but before sealing and painting. The effect was really authentic. Your stern is looking damned good, too!! Pat
  7. Overworked724
    Today was shroud cleat installation day. Chuck’s practicum mentions glueing then tying them in...not certain how the heck he did it. I opted for a more straightforward method...I glued the cleat to the line, then lined up the cleat on the shroud, and used a touch of CA to lock it in place. I then tied a simple slip knot which was also dabbed with CA. It gave a passing result, but next time I will research this part a bit more and open up some options for me...because this was no easy task. Little bastards are hard to get on lined up correctly. Heres a few photos. Moving on to main boom.
  8. Overworked724
    Found a great idea from another forum member here...using kindergarten counters to make nice rope coils. Worked like a charm. Fun stuff!!! (If I find the link I’ll post it) Also got my outer jib stay and fore top mast stay in place. Traveller looks good. Moving on...!!!
  9. Overworked724
    Haha....right! 🤣
  10. Overworked724
    Today was the traveller construction that goes on the jib boom. Chuck’s practicum describes this really clearly. However, I used a brass pin so I could blacken it...also, I did not seal the loop with CA. Instead, I soldered it together and smoothed it off with needle files. Pics below. Straightforward process but it took a while because I dropped a few attempts!!! Moving on!!
  11. Overworked724
    Brilliant! I would never have thought you would introduce 3D printing in this blog. Wow! You are taking the hobby to the 21st century! Nicely done!
  12. Overworked724
    Not sure if you need this advice but...Whatever you do...stay away from CA when doing your planking — like it’s the plague! Only use white/carpenters glue so you can always correct a mistake. Water soluble glue is a life saver!! I used basswood from Hobby Lobby to good effect. Harder woods aren’t as ‘thready’. But I used Tung Oil and sanding with fine grain sandpaper to get a smooth finish on both the exterior and deck planking. Words of wisdom from a novice.
  13. Overworked724
    Thanks, Steve! Actually, I’m learning from Chuck’s practicum, folks who visit this blog with constructive criticism and ideas, my mistakes, doing things outside the instructions and the practicum, reading other people’s builds (and their mistakes and learnings), and reading outside references...etc. So many places to learn. It dawned on me that the joy in this hobby is manifold...the joy of creating something you can take pride in, the community of support who also build, overcoming problems and mistakes with success, the continual learning of new skill sets, learning fascinating maritime history, and simply getting lost in a great and wholesome hobby!
  14. Overworked724
    Happy St Paddy’s Day! Well, back from Ireland...windy and raining the whole time. 🇮🇪❤️ Gotta love the Emerald Isle. Well, I used my drilled out deadeyes to make bullseyes for the main stay and main top mast stay. They might be oversized as Chuck was cautious to avoid...but I think it turned out pretty nice. I tied them to the bullseyes attached to the deck eyebolts, then glued them on afterwards. Left myself enough slack to sieze at the main mast and main top mast while slightly increasing tension. Might be backwards, but seemed the best way to assure the lanyards on both bullseyes were of equal length. I threaded the block and then rigged the attachments to the main and top masts. And on the culinary side, my wife made cheesecake muffins and said she found deadeyes again!!! 🤣
  15. Overworked724
    Hey...I thought you threw the solid hull away??? LOL
  16. Overworked724
    Outstanding! I agree....your hull should come together nicely! I’m looking forward to your progress, Peter. Your ‘kit’ already paints how lazy and delinquent MS has been in updatingtheir kit! Looking forward to your progress.
  17. Overworked724
    Ok. Firstly I’m really amazed at how this short blog has changed my perspective. Really great to see the progression here, Peter. Amazing!! I’m drooling! A couple questions. Where did you get the pieces cut? Did your plans consider the type of wood you would use for your frames? Are you going to build the Sultana? I would love to this frame fully planked! And if I get my hands on the plans and the know how to turn them into laser cut pieces I will begin building her (again) ASAP! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
  18. Overworked724
    I agree with removing the timber heads from the transom. Will you be offering a laser cut pattern for the window shutters off the transom? Yiur work is truly inspiring, Peter. And if you share the finished file, I’ll try to find a way to get the laser cut pieces and put it into a build! I’m getting tons of practice on the Old kit...would love to compare to a New kit! keep up the great blog....looks like you are almost done!
  19. Overworked724
    Hehe. Yes...well...my wife is still shell shocked 😮.
  20. Overworked724
    Off to the Emerald Isle for business the next week. In between church and packing...I printed out my itinerary on our inkjet. Decided I would fuss with the idea of flags for a few minutes! Took some washi paper my wife bought for me during our last visit to Japan and taped it to a clean sheet of paper. Then, I printed out the page from Chuck’s practicum to see what the paper did. Well, to my surprise, it held the ink well. Also, upon wetting, it’s very easy to shape as it is extremely thin. Just ran the trial flags under room temp water and 10min later had the shapes below. Ink did not run. I think I have a pretty clear and simple way to make my flags. On another note...the Admiral made breakfast this morning and said there’s a deadeye in her cooking pan. Confused, I went over to take a look...and sure enough, there was an egg-xact replica of a deadeye. Pun intended. Moving on...have a great week!
  21. Overworked724
    Ratlins are done. For my first time doing shrouds and ratlins, not a bad result. I learned a lot, and have a good idea of how to improve my result next time around. My little rigging tool I made from a dowel and needle I used extensively and actually found it more useful in helping to tighten up and position the knots. Here are are some photos. As mentioned, my last set of shrouds showed minor ‘hourglassing’ mid’way through...I decided to live with it...live and learn!!! Moving on!!!
  22. Overworked724
    Thanks Lou/Ron. I’m probably being overly critical. I did some searching and the frustration of ‘hourglassing’ and dissymetry is not uncommon, especially as folks develop their own skill/technique. I’ll finish them up today and move on. The builder sees the mistakes magnified x10 over. The Admiral just shook her head and told me it looks awesome...then gave me a glass of wine. All better!
  23. Overworked724
    Here are a couple pics. Hmmmm...well, when not looking at the shroud dead on, it still looks pretty good. These shots show the difference a bit better.
  24. Overworked724
    Hi Lou --- this is exactly what I was thinking! Having a upper and lower 'stabilizer' to minimize the movement of the shroud as you tie your knots...it also keeps you from putting lateral stress on where the shroud crawl up and over the trestle trees. I'm not planning adding sails - only rigging. With that being said, I think I'll plan to move forward. This ship has been a great learning experience - time I started approaching it as such and stop expecting a perfect result. And perhaps you are correct - the impact of the shrouds will be minimized once everything else in place.
  25. Overworked724
    Well - I'm 90% done with my ratlines. I'm not posting a photo, because the last shroud I've done seemed markedly different in appearance than the other three. I've been staring at it for a while, and it finally dawned on me why it seems so different...the fact is, my technique seems to have improved over the last three sets of shrouds. This final one seems to have less noticeable distortion of the side shrouds...giving it a more symmetrical, and narrow, appearance versus the other three sets that I've completed. Sigh...CRAP. My eye is magnifying the difference...and it's bugging me. So, the question is whether I redo it/them...which would require redoing both sides...or whether I live and learn, and simply move on with the next steps in the build? I don't know why I'm being so hard on myself...this is my first wooden ship...and it can't be perfect. (Perfect fell by the wayside a LONG time ago) But - a couple of things I might do different.... 1. The miniature rope seemed too heavy (at least for me with the tension I had on th shrouds - which might not have been enough to keep them from distorting as I tied the ratlins)...I used Chuck's recommendation of 0.008" rope....but I found that pulls or pushes the shrouds - depending on whether the ratlin is too taught or slack...it's a maddening balance of ratlin tensile strength versus the vertical taughtness/resistance in the two shrouds you are connecting. I would use smaller gauge rope/thread next time. 2. I was think of using a hairclip (flat duckbill clip) stylists use to hold curlers in ladies hair...I imagine putting these on the shrouds above and below the area you are applying the ratlins might help you keep them more aligned. Just a thought... Moving on...or am I? (conflicted...)

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