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Overworked724

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Everything posted by Overworked724

  1. Dear @lmagna, @ccoyle, @GrandpaPhil, @thibaultron, @DocBlake, @jablackwell, @yvesvidal, @Estoy_Listo, @Bill Brown, @Sea Hoss, and @captgino, Sincere thanks for your very kind kudos! In truth, I was equally motivated by the occasional 'thumbs up' and supportive comments from you all on this forum as I was by my own shipmates at Midwest Model Shipwrights! Looking back, I would still choose the Sultana as my first wood model ship - if simply for the opportunities to think outside of the box to solve little problems, as well as develop some useful skill sets. True, the Sultana was not a fully planked hull...but my next build will be. Also, since rigging will no longer be an unknown terror , I can be doubly focused on approaching the planking and woodwork. My next build will be the Woody Joe model Charles Royal Yacht. (Should be fun...the directions are in Japanese!) That project will start in June or July, so I can focus on work, home, and trying my hand at rope making! (Yes...I bought a Syren Rope Rocket...I'll be posting my efforts in another section of the forums when I have something to post!) Thanks again, All!!!
  2. Well folks. The rope coils on the mast cleats were my last bug bear. They were a real pain, but I believe I started to recognize the issues...namely making them too narrow makes them twice as hard to get on. But that was the last thing. No ships boat...would only detract what I think is a respectable first wooden ship build. That being said...she’s finished! I owe special thanks to my Admiral(!), my ship model club, and to Chuck Passaro for a great crutch in writing the Sultana practicum. Even with that, it was still challenging and I learned a lot!!! So...here are the Launch Photos. I post a few more when I put her under glass in the next few days. I'm pretty proud of my first model ship...definitely not a bad result
  3. The windows on the transom are one area I wish I could redo...but that ship sailed...pardon the pun. More to follow!
  4. Decided to take a break from the rope coil brainstorming for the shroud cleats and attack the name plate. Ok. I know there are a lot of ways to make a nameplate, but I’m thinking cheap, easy, quick and simple. For the first timer like me, I decided to go with the direct approach. I worked off the ship using using my old transom mockups as a fitting template. I used MS Word to make a couple background color options (brown and black) with the SULTANA written in white. This is easy in Word...just insert a figure, choose a square, change the fill background to the color you want, type in the content in the square, select your font and font size. Tadaaaa! I pasted the cutout names to a yellow Manila folder. Then I cut out the shape of the plate...I had made a template name plate, and simply traced the shape...then cut it out. The Manila folder backing makes the tiny name plate easier to handle, and matches the width of the ‘lip’ I created when I wrapped the transom in wood used in the border rail. Then I tailored the shape and width I wanted and test fit on the mock-up. The yellow edge is easily masked by running a black Sharpie marker along the edge. The I simply put some carpenters glue on the back of the plate (the Manila folder backing is stiff but pliable, and really makes gluing much easier) and applied to the back of the transom. It doesn’t have to be rocket science...it just needs to look realistic. Moving on to shroud cleat coils!!!
  5. Hull shaping tools for me...sandpaper and wood blocks of varying shapes. Hobby Lobby or Lowe’s will have large 1” dowels. Cut them an wrap/staple sandpaper around the blocks. This will give you square as well as rounded sides to shape and contour the lines. Do do a little at a time! This was the hardest part if you ask me.
  6. Hi Andrea This is where kits with frames (plank on bulkhead) make things easier. Solid hull faring is a bit of a pain. Drawing the centerline is part art and part science for a solid hull if you ask me. I found myself using the templates as I sanded, but you must have the centerline drawn before you start sanding. The templates you use for faring the hull need to be calibrated against the centerline. But...if you oversand, wood is forgiving and you can use wood filler....which I used copiously! I was the same as you...terrified of making a mistake. Read my blog...paralysis by analysis was my main flaw. So just go for it....make mistakes. It’s half The Fun!
  7. Decided to mount the jackstaff version 2.0 since the Admiral made it a special request. Trying to mount it on the ship was not nearly as difficult as it would have been to tie on the flag if I’d mounted it first...so good decision on my part. Next time, I’ll mount it but with holes for ball trucks. Trickiest part of mounting it was making sure it was true vertical. Here are the flags...followed Chuck’s recommendation and left out the pennant. Also mounted the cannon stocks and test fit the cannon. I’ll retouch them before glueing them in. I know the plan call for 4 cannon mounted on the bow, and I made them...but I like the look of the ship without them...so I left them off. My ship...my rules. Lastly, I got the rope coils mounted on the mast cleats. Also got the coils made and planted on the deck. Leaving me with the shroud cleats rope coils, and the nameplate for the transom. Moving on...that light is shining pretty darned bright at the end of the tunnel!!!
  8. And another minor stall...my jackstaff needs to be remade...the flag is too close to the bowsprit cap. Also, the rope coils do not sit as neatly as I'd like, so will rethink the jig and how to make the coils. I did get the flag set up on the flag halliard off the main gaff. Looks very nice. Photos later...taking my time now. Enjoying the details... Moving on...!
  9. Are you using a dremel for faring, or hand sanding with blocks? Looks fantastic! Just pulled up a chair.
  10. After doing preemptive damage control on my almost forgotten anniversary (Admiral still has the delusion I never forget anything), I was able to continue with trim work. Flags were prepped as discussed in my blog earlier. The washi paper is extremely delicate when wet, but easy to shape. I feel I got pretty close to a wavy flag. Used two lines (sewing thread) through them to make them easier to tie to the rope/jackstaff. I prepped the jackstaff as pre Chuck’s method. I filed down a toothpick, stained it, and added a bead to the top. Looks good. (Same beads I used for the parrels) I’ll add the simulated iron bands this evening and decide if I’ll put it on the ship or not. Moving on!!!
  11. My wedding anniversary is tomorrow...was thinking I might get my wife a completed model ship for her anniversary, but the timing was a bit off! Now I'm screwed...
  12. Happy to report that my rigging is done. Jib boom rigging went off without too much fuss...but I fretted for over a week. Not sure if that means anything, but there it is! Nothing but details and flags now. Here are some pics of the jib boom rigging. Turned out pretty decent. Moving on...to touch up and flags.
  13. There should be a BOOK on model making which details how to attach blocks to lines, seizing blocks, stropping blocks, lines, tying knots, etc. Anyone know of one???
  14. Many thanks! It's been fun...and I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel! (knock wood) Still got a ways to go...the Admiral already has a place for her waiting in the dining room! She is expecting delivery soon!!! As for me...I have a bottle of scotch waiting to be opened upon launch day!!
  15. Yes! She's sitting in the box right now. It's the Charles Stuart Royal Yacht by Woody Joe (Japanese company) - plank on frame.
  16. Well, if I could get a dollar for every mulligan I've needed during the rigging stage I could take my wife to dinner (with drinks). A few observations of my own before I post pics: - Rigging becomes complicated by the visual noise of other rigging as you add more, which leads to occasional twisted/fouled lines (which need redone) - I got into the habit of giving myself LOTS of extra rope/thread when rigging - resulting in a lot of waste...most of my rigging rope/thread went into the circular file rather than on the ship...I'm not very efficient! - Get some extra long toothpicks...you have no idea how much you will need them - My little cheapie make shift tool from my previous post is a marvel - I practically attacked the cleats with it without fear - Rigging really teaches you a lot about a ship! - Using a blue bed sheet as a background really helps when photographing rigging Here is my progress update: - Running backstays are in for both fore and main masts - Lower yards are in on both fore and main masts - Sheet lines are in on both lower yards - Braces are in on both lower yards - Lifts are in on both lower yards - Vangs are in on fore gaff Here are some spur of the moment decisions: - I followed Chuck and installed cleats on the quarter deck to belay the main mast backstays rather than tie them to the cap rail - which would have looks a bit weird anyways - I tied off the sheet lines to the mast cleats on the fore mast rather than to the bitts....deciding to tie off the outer and inner jib halliards to the bitts instead (may be wrong on this call, but what the hell.) - Added a mast cleat on the direct front of the fore mast to belay the lower yard halliard from the block rather than shunt it to the bitts...(again, might be wrong, but what the hell.) - Am going to add the detail (ropes/paint touch ups, etc.) after I'm done adding the outer and inner jib rigging. (Again, may be a poor choice, but what the hell.) And now some pics: Moving on to jib rigging, flags, guns and touch ups.... Getting there!!!! Happy Easter!
  17. Actually, you did the same thing I did. I reversed it, then realized after I’d set it on the model! Then, I removed it, remade the mouse, but forgot to thread the line before attaching the closed heart at the other end! So, I ended up doing this 3x! That’s the only reason I know! But in truth, I think it looks great and would just move on! You are doing great! Enjoying your (our?) Sultana build!
  18. Just curious. You may wish to check the mouse on the stay is the correct orientation. In Chuck’s practicum, he rigged his backwards as well but noticed too late. I believe yours is rigged in the reverse orientation. The loop should fit around the narrow ‘nose’ of the mouse as in your figure. Nice work on the stays, though!
  19. Got my lower yards setup. Both look identical. Little blocks are pain. Had some difficulty getting them lined up correctly. Now the fun part...getting them on the ship. Moving on...
  20. Like most ship modelers, I invested in tools for rigging. Although they might have their uses, I finally ended up making a tool to more easily help me get the rope wrapped around cleats. This is really hard to do when there is rigging in the way, or you are at a bad angle, which is always the case for shroud and mast cleats. I took a bamboo chop stick, drilled a hole in it, then bent a paper clip into the following shape. The bent end or very tip is only about 1/8” or so. I filed the end to make sure to rope slides off with ease. I find I can easily maneuver the rope using the inside corner of the ‘L’...twirling the tool as I wrap thread around a cleat...it’s kind of fun. It has been a lifesaver and made connecting the rope to cleats less stressful and much much quicker!!! I wonder if other folks on this forum have made their own tools? If you have a tool to help with rigging, please feel free to post on this blog. I need all the help I can get.
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