Jump to content
MSW Spring Donation Drive

Overworked724

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,218

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Overworked724

  1. Overworked724
    Just bought the book! (Amazon used books!!! Love it) Loved the quick link to the original plans, too! Thanks!
  2. Overworked724
    OMG! Awesome....I'm following. I'm going to get that book, too! Can't wait to see what you do with this!!!
  3. Overworked724
    And as soon as I posted the previous note, I realized that I had tied my top deadeyes to the shrouds correctly on both port and starboard. But....the aft pair of deadeyes on the starboard side of the foredeck are rigged opposite from the leading pair (i.e. I accidentally rigged them as a port side pair) Symmetry and the necessary mirroring between the two sides of the ship can be a real B*TCH sometimes!! Sigh...it's always something. But damned if I'm redoing them. It still looks decent and represent a good bit of work, and skill/knowledge obtained. Imperfection accepted!!! Moving on...again...
  4. Overworked724
    I like how you siezed the lanyard to the shroud. Very clean!! Looking good!
  5. Overworked724
    Just a note. The book, Rigging Period Model Ships by Lennarth Petersson, is a great tool to help visualize how to properly set up deadeyes and their lanyards. At this scale, it’s hard to hold to complete historic accuracy, but gives you some ideas on how to tie them and still make them look reasonably accurate. One thing of interest, the top deadeyes are set up on the shrouds so as to reflect the opposite side. So the port and starboard deadeyes attaches to the shrouds are tied so they are mirror images of each other. Symmetry...always symmetry! Makes me rethink everything.
  6. Overworked724
    Tha lanyards between the deadeyes has been a challenge. After looking at my first two I realized my problem...consistency. The loose end of the lanyard was difficult to tie down and still maintain good position and tension. So my initial attempt seemed a bit assymetrical. So I redid them... And voila.....!!! Moving on!!!
  7. Overworked724
    A mix of monotonous and fun progress! Spent some time sanding, shaping, and painting my shroud cleats. So those are done...thank God! Still working through my shrouds and lanyards, which are looking pretty tight! Finally decided to take a break and do something fun. My walnut transom looks nice, but was a bit sparse. I ordered some wood carving templates for bas relief used on another model from Syren since I wanted to start working up a different skill set...and decided to order a resin casting of the same bas relief. I thought I might use it to decorate the transom! The effect was so nice, I decided to go ahead and see if I could get lucky placing it on the ship! Granted...if I could go back and redo the windows now, I would! But, the relief painted black to match the trim adds a very polished touch. Moving on!
  8. Overworked724
    Well...I love the smell. And surprisingly, the line is straight and well behaved after running it through the wax cake...and also has a nice tacky feel.
  9. Overworked724
    I’m thinking of retrying those lanyards...I just discovered the magic that is beeswax!
  10. Overworked724
    My first attempt at deadeyes took me some time to gather courage. My first two look pretty good. The aft one is a touch lower than the one near the stem, but not bad for my very first deadeyes. Of note is that I changed my seizing thread from a synthetic thread (right deadeye) to a pure cotton blend (left deadeye). I found the knots were easier to slide and the siezings didn’t bunchup as much. But I think I’m getting a better feel for the dead eyes and how they are rigged. It’s a learning process.... Moving on!!!!
  11. Overworked724
    Yes! I was looking at the ZIP siezings you make and seriously considering another try! They look nice!
  12. Overworked724
    Just messing around with my deadeye practice. I want the upper deadeyes to look uniform. Only practice will help...so using my spare vice and some thread. I’m getting there.... Need more practice though!!!
  13. Overworked724
    Oh my goodness! Apologies. I meant to post on my blog but mistakenly put on yours! Sorry about that! 😣 I think these are 2.5-3mm. Same size Chuck referenced in the practicum.
  14. Overworked724
    Just messing around with my deadeye practice. I want the upper deadeyes to look uniform. Only practice will help...so using my spare vice and some thread. I’m getting there.... moving on...
  15. Overworked724
    I actually have access to the same website. Good resource. He used drill bits but same principle. I tried zip seizings also, and made a copper plated wooden jig to pop off the formed coils after the glue set. Worked well, but I found it difficult to thread the other end through the zipsiezing once it was on the line. But I like the clean look it gives!
  16. Overworked724
    Yep!!
  17. Overworked724
    Bit the bullet. Stepped the masts! No turning back! Set the blocks and bullseyes first. Then set up the mast coats and glued in the masts. Used carpenter’s glue and looked multiple directions as it set. Helpful to add the top masts to help eyeball the symmetry as the glue sets. As I noted earlier, the top masts are not set yet. Easy to remove them until I need to mount them. Moving on!!!!
  18. Overworked724
    Masts are ready to be stepped. God help me... Crazy part is, I’m over analyzing how to step the masts so that if....IF!...I need to remove them for repairs (or to make a correction for some error or accident), I can actually do it. I am trying to ensure that when I mount the masts, I can (in some fashion) get them back out. Damn it...
  19. Overworked724
    Hi Lou! I found two online graphic references. One was from a pdf of the Instruction for the Golden Hind. The other from a pictorial guide for the Syren, written by Chuck Passaro. Both give a pretty nice account of rigging the cathead to hang the anchor, and sling the flukes to a timber head. I love the look. The terminatingend of the line returning through the cathead is tied to the cleat on the base of the cathead. The other end is tied to the eyebolt on the side of the cathead. I simply couldn’t figure out from Chuck’s practicum how it would be rigged as he didn’t go into detail on this point. Moving on!!!
  20. Overworked724
    I’m a stickler for directions. Finally found a good reference to guide me in how to rig my catheads and hang my anchors!!!
  21. Overworked724
    A bit more progress. Anchors are done. Also fixed the mast caps and painted. I see from the front the masts are at the right rake, and that the trees and caps are parallel to each other. Minor bit askew due to a small misalignment when drilling my mast holes, but I’ll live with it. Lesson learned for next time. Have not yet stepped the masts or topmasts. Have a couple more blocks to tie, then will add the mast coats and step main and fore masts. I’m thinking of waiting to secure the shrouds before I step the topmasts...decisions, decisions!!! Moving on....😊
  22. Overworked724
    Lou is right...you made me rethink my own laziness!!! Have a beer on me!!!
  23. Overworked724
    So does the Admiral...and so do I frankly! Will stain them and call it a day on the mast coats.
  24. Overworked724
    Mast coats look great. Made me rethink my original metal ones. Looking good!
  25. Overworked724
    Ok. So that last pic in the post above bugged me...I tried the mast coamings on the mast and, although they looked good, seemed a bit off. The mast coamings which I made earlier using wire and then painted red, were done akin to Chuck’s method in his practicum. The pic below shows my initial coaming (unpainted) for the main mast. Now, the method I had developed earlier (and is pretty easy) to make my full wrap around boom rest, is easily applied in the same way here to make both coamings from wood. Step by step...here is the way I do it. One exacto with #11 blade, one flat razor, an emery board for sanding, 1/32” basswood sheet from Hobby Lobby....taaadaaa. After trimming to size and sanding, make sure to bevel the edges to round them off. Both coamings took me about 20 minutes. So...now I have 2 sets of mast coamings. Metal and wood. I tend to think the wood ones look more natural (ie. imperfect). The coamings were a side project. Working on my blocks/tackle in the background today. Fun!!! Movin’ on...

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...