Phill Elston

http://www.shipmatesreunited.com/german-wwi-warships-rediscovered-in-portsmouth-harbour-after-lying-forgotten-for-decades/

http://www.shipmatesreunited.com/german-wwi-warships-rediscovered-in-portsmouth-harbour-after-lying-forgotten-for-decades/

http://www.shipmatesreunited.com/german-wwi-warships-rediscovered-in-portsmouth-harbour-after-lying-forgotten-for-decades/

http://www.shipmatesreunited.com/german-wwi-warships-rediscovered-in-portsmouth-harbour-after-lying-forgotten-for-decades/

This has helped me too. I've just cut the gun ports on my build (though there are but four!) and was also wondering about stuff like this.

I found this tool on eBay the other day... Thought it might be of use to some. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400458179782?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

That is what this forum is all about, we all learn from each other. To bad the rest of the world couldn't get along like we do.

This has helped me too. I've just cut the gun ports on my build (though there are but four!) and was also wondering about stuff like this.

I found this tool on eBay the other day... Thought it might be of use to some. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400458179782?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

This has helped me too. I've just cut the gun ports on my build (though there are but four!) and was also wondering about stuff like this.

Thanks Phill;
 
I've learnt a lot from the resources and people on this site;  it seems only fair to do my bit to keep up the tradition.
 
Happy modelling!
 
Mark P

Hi Thistle;
 
The gun-port cills and lintels (also called cills,  actually:  upper cills)  were aligned with the curvature (sheer) of the deck,  maintaining a constant distance from the deck at the side of the vessel.  The sides of the ports are at right-angles to the keel,  parallel to the station lines (there are some exceptions,  but this is by far the general rule)
 
This means that the gun-ports are not square,  except for a few right amidships,  but are actually a parallelogram shape,  with the angles increasing towards the stern and bow.
 
To answer your question about guns moving:  when they were not being used the guns were stowed by raising the muzzle to its maximum and hauling the gun tight to the ship's side.  The muzzle then fitted into a curving recess cut into the back of the upper cill.  The gun-tackles were lashed up taut,  and an additional rope lashed around the muzzle and made fast to an eye-bolt in the side above the port.  
 
Hope this helps.
 
All the best,
 
Mark P

So...  First planking is pretty much complete. There's more filler than I would have preferred, but it IS my first attempt and the first planking WILL be covered by the second...  And I read somewhere else on here that "filler is your friend".
 
There is seemingly far more filler at the stern than at the bow...   Most of the bow filling is correcting my not having got the compound, two dimensional bends correct in the planks laid into that area.  I have learned from that, so that next time I build, I'll focus far more attention into this aspect.  As for the filler at the stern; a lot of that is making up for the appalling lack of instruction and diagrams of the stern area.  That, and the fact that the supplied white metal castings that are meant to fit around the stern area simply don't! The etched brass stern gallery windows are great...  But they are instructed to be simply fixed to the stern planking.  Looking at the "Anatomy" pictures, and having seen several sailing ships, I see that the stern windows would generally be a "bowed" group.  So with that in mind, I built a bowed relief onto which I will fix the frames...  AFTER I have "glazed" them (having found this product - https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/scale-plastics/49-glue-n-glaze-5060243900333.html) I will also carve away the balsa behind the window and then paint it to add some depth. 
The quarter galleries are probably going to get a makeover too...  the metal castings that make them are a little lacklustre in my opinion - watch this space for development there!
 
I have fully planked the bulwarks, rather than use the pre-cut gun ports.  Reason being that the gun ports shown in the "anatomy" are somewhat higher in the bulwarks than the ones pre-cut.  The tops of the bulwarks have yet to to be cut down to their correct height and then internally lined but that is a work in progress...
 
So I guess the next job is to fit the cut water, true keel and sternpost. Thereafter, it is to mark the waterline and wales before starting the second planking.  On that note, please,,, anyone reading this...  I need advice on the maxim length at which to cut the planking that will show on the ships sides?

So...  First planking is pretty much complete. There's more filler than I would have preferred, but it IS my first attempt and the first planking WILL be covered by the second...  And I read somewhere else on here that "filler is your friend".
 
There is seemingly far more filler at the stern than at the bow...   Most of the bow filling is correcting my not having got the compound, two dimensional bends correct in the planks laid into that area.  I have learned from that, so that next time I build, I'll focus far more attention into this aspect.  As for the filler at the stern; a lot of that is making up for the appalling lack of instruction and diagrams of the stern area.  That, and the fact that the supplied white metal castings that are meant to fit around the stern area simply don't! The etched brass stern gallery windows are great...  But they are instructed to be simply fixed to the stern planking.  Looking at the "Anatomy" pictures, and having seen several sailing ships, I see that the stern windows would generally be a "bowed" group.  So with that in mind, I built a bowed relief onto which I will fix the frames...  AFTER I have "glazed" them (having found this product - https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/scale-plastics/49-glue-n-glaze-5060243900333.html) I will also carve away the balsa behind the window and then paint it to add some depth. 
The quarter galleries are probably going to get a makeover too...  the metal castings that make them are a little lacklustre in my opinion - watch this space for development there!
 
I have fully planked the bulwarks, rather than use the pre-cut gun ports.  Reason being that the gun ports shown in the "anatomy" are somewhat higher in the bulwarks than the ones pre-cut.  The tops of the bulwarks have yet to to be cut down to their correct height and then internally lined but that is a work in progress...
 
So I guess the next job is to fit the cut water, true keel and sternpost. Thereafter, it is to mark the waterline and wales before starting the second planking.  On that note, please,,, anyone reading this...  I need advice on the maxim length at which to cut the planking that will show on the ships sides?

So...  First planking is pretty much complete. There's more filler than I would have preferred, but it IS my first attempt and the first planking WILL be covered by the second...  And I read somewhere else on here that "filler is your friend".
 
There is seemingly far more filler at the stern than at the bow...   Most of the bow filling is correcting my not having got the compound, two dimensional bends correct in the planks laid into that area.  I have learned from that, so that next time I build, I'll focus far more attention into this aspect.  As for the filler at the stern; a lot of that is making up for the appalling lack of instruction and diagrams of the stern area.  That, and the fact that the supplied white metal castings that are meant to fit around the stern area simply don't! The etched brass stern gallery windows are great...  But they are instructed to be simply fixed to the stern planking.  Looking at the "Anatomy" pictures, and having seen several sailing ships, I see that the stern windows would generally be a "bowed" group.  So with that in mind, I built a bowed relief onto which I will fix the frames...  AFTER I have "glazed" them (having found this product - https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/scale-plastics/49-glue-n-glaze-5060243900333.html) I will also carve away the balsa behind the window and then paint it to add some depth. 
The quarter galleries are probably going to get a makeover too...  the metal castings that make them are a little lacklustre in my opinion - watch this space for development there!
 
I have fully planked the bulwarks, rather than use the pre-cut gun ports.  Reason being that the gun ports shown in the "anatomy" are somewhat higher in the bulwarks than the ones pre-cut.  The tops of the bulwarks have yet to to be cut down to their correct height and then internally lined but that is a work in progress...
 
So I guess the next job is to fit the cut water, true keel and sternpost. Thereafter, it is to mark the waterline and wales before starting the second planking.  On that note, please,,, anyone reading this...  I need advice on the maxim length at which to cut the planking that will show on the ships sides?

So...  First planking is pretty much complete. There's more filler than I would have preferred, but it IS my first attempt and the first planking WILL be covered by the second...  And I read somewhere else on here that "filler is your friend".
 
There is seemingly far more filler at the stern than at the bow...   Most of the bow filling is correcting my not having got the compound, two dimensional bends correct in the planks laid into that area.  I have learned from that, so that next time I build, I'll focus far more attention into this aspect.  As for the filler at the stern; a lot of that is making up for the appalling lack of instruction and diagrams of the stern area.  That, and the fact that the supplied white metal castings that are meant to fit around the stern area simply don't! The etched brass stern gallery windows are great...  But they are instructed to be simply fixed to the stern planking.  Looking at the "Anatomy" pictures, and having seen several sailing ships, I see that the stern windows would generally be a "bowed" group.  So with that in mind, I built a bowed relief onto which I will fix the frames...  AFTER I have "glazed" them (having found this product - https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/scale-plastics/49-glue-n-glaze-5060243900333.html) I will also carve away the balsa behind the window and then paint it to add some depth. 
The quarter galleries are probably going to get a makeover too...  the metal castings that make them are a little lacklustre in my opinion - watch this space for development there!
 
I have fully planked the bulwarks, rather than use the pre-cut gun ports.  Reason being that the gun ports shown in the "anatomy" are somewhat higher in the bulwarks than the ones pre-cut.  The tops of the bulwarks have yet to to be cut down to their correct height and then internally lined but that is a work in progress...
 
So I guess the next job is to fit the cut water, true keel and sternpost. Thereafter, it is to mark the waterline and wales before starting the second planking.  On that note, please,,, anyone reading this...  I need advice on the maxim length at which to cut the planking that will show on the ships sides?

https://www.thevintagenews.com/2015/12/01/the-defiance-a-sailing-ship-frozen-in-time/?src=fba&type=int&page=tvn

when you run out of 1.3mm  black thread,  please remember the couple of metres on the rigging tool

Well things are progressing. 
The bow and stern are pretty much blocked and faired.
 
I would as that if anyone can guide me as to the way the plywood blocks (supplied with the kit) on the stern need to be faired, please contact me and describe?
 
 
 

https://www.thevintagenews.com/2015/12/01/the-defiance-a-sailing-ship-frozen-in-time/?src=fba&type=int&page=tvn

Hi Vossy,
 
I looked at Romans website link and although I was a Comms Tech in the RN, my reading of Cyrilic is not up to communicating with him or reading his pages... I can't even work out how to scroll to the next page! You are right though, his version of the gallery windows would look better at the very least.
 
I too an not sure about the second planking being in the same wood as the deck. I was going to buy some Tanganika strip until I realised that it was £0.32 a strip and I would need about thirty or forty strips!
My more simple answer will be to varnish the deck with a very Matt varnish (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/admiralty_varnishes.html) while staining the hull planking down some. (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/admiralty_stains.html)
 
I'm just getting toward the end of the first planking of the hull and yes, you are right... The supplied 1.5x 6 is a bugger to work around 3D curvature (especially when it is the very first time you've planked a ship!) I'm getting there, but I'm running out of filler! LOL
 
I'm going to copper the lower hull using copper tape and a ponce wheel A) because it will look WAY better than paint and, more importantly, it means that I won't have to do "fine planking" around the tight curve of the bow! I think I'm going to plank down below where the copper starts and fair that in.
 
I too am missing some parts from my Amati box... As far as I know though, it is only the eye bolts. Rather than go through the hassle of contacting Amati, I am buying some etched brass ones as I think that they will look better.
 
Are you running a build log on your Bounty?
 
If you look at my build log (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12953-hmav-bounty-by-phill-elston-amati-160-ostensibly-from-the-kit-plans-but-potentially-modified-to-more-authentic/) you will see how I blocked in the bow sections on mine. It's far from perfect and in retrospect, I shaved a bit too much balsa away, so I've had to build a lot back up again with filler. As I say, I progressing well with the first planking, and all being well, I should finish that stage by early next week. Then it's sanding dust time!
 
Please feel free to swap thoughts and ideas on the builds you see it.
 
Best regards
 
Phill
 
PS... Did you serve in River class frigates? I served in several Leanders. Great ships!

Hi there,
 
I've recently got back into model making.  I've never made a wooden model ship (or any other type for that matter!) My forté was 54mm - 75mm scale figures and dioramas.  However, a 20 year career in the RN left me with a liking for the sea and I'm now part way through an Amati HMAV Bounty (there's "dust" everywhere in my work area at the moment as I'm filling and fairing!) 
When I was modelling before, I had a little compartmentalised "tunrntable" that came from a graphics shop that I once worked in.  I used it for standing a lot of my tools and things in.
The better part of thirty years, umpteen house moves and a couple of kids (now adults) have left my turntable heaven knows where! 
 
So now that I've "returned from the cold', I need some way of storing my modelling tools whilst having them easily to hand.  This will not only keep my workspace clear, but also keep my tools in better condition and keep me from injuring my self on needlepoint sharp kit!
 
I searched everywhere in stationery stores and suppliers, graphic art shops...  Allsorts. Nothing.  So I turned my attention to E-Bay.  Eventually, I found something...  in "Health & Beauty"/"Make Up"/ "Make up tools & accessories"
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201479390299?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=500659444906&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
I'm not sure that the full link will show so it was described on E-Bay UK as
"360-degree Spinning Cosmetic Organizer Display Makeup Box Case Cleanup Rotating"
 
It arrived in just a few days and I set to, "adapting it" to my needs.  It's not finished but I have managed to clear a BIG space on my work table!
 
I thought it might work for someone else, so I've posted it here...
 
I hope it helps someone else.

Hi Jason,
 
Thanks for responding (I'm glad SOMEONE did!)
 
I think though, by the time I read your answer, I'd pretty much worked out the answer and implemented it!
 
I filled the gap with balsa filler and then faired the stern blocks down to (pretty much) the width of the false keel (see photos)
I'm pretty sure this will get me toward the required profile.  The first layer of planking will take a fairly severe sanding as I've already found with the first couple of planks...  But more of that on my build log.

So over the past week or so I've been working on the first planking of my Bounty...  Please remember that this is the very first ship build that I have done, Admittedly, in my youth, I made a LOT of models, but not one wooden one.  Miniaturised wood butchery is turning out to be pretty good fun though!
 
Luckily, I was reading another build log that urged other builders to exercise caution when planking the hull and to plank port and starboard sides equally - otherwise there is a chance that the hull could buckle or warp with the uneven shrinkage of the planks set.
I've planked the hull down six planks from the bottom of the bulwarks and a similar number up from the false keel.  I'm now reaching the point where there is no hard frame at the forward end of the planks to pin them to while they are drying... 
 
So the method that seem obvious to me to pinion the planks in position whilst they dry - either from soak/forming or gluing.  I have several pieces of 1mm plywood scrap that will pin to a hard point on the keel frame and then bend over the setting plank until it's dry (as seen in the first photograph below)
 
Throwing a question out there to all you more experienced builders now...  I was able to work out deck planking because I have real life experience of deck planking.  However, all the ships I ever served in were steel...  So I have no Idea what lengths to cut the secondary planking for the hull, and I have even less Idea of how the joints between those planks were staggered?
As I type this, I'm thinking I should simply "google" or "YouTube" it...  Nothing though, in my opinion, beats hard experience from first hand, so please readers...  Throw me a tip or two?
 
Many thanks

http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php. <-- This may help.