Haliburton

Evening all,   some more progress  -  I finished  painting and weathering  the  cobbled patio, and  glued it in place,  I have also  done a wee bit more weathering to the  farmhouse,  I will  blend  things  in even more so  as  I progress  with  the  ground works.
 
OC.

I have  been busy again today  -  I  have knocked up  the  extension to the  log store  and  scribed the  tiles  (was tricky  with the  angles)   it looks  White  (it will  be  later)   but  its  just the same  light  pine  look  wood  I have been using  for the porch  - patio  etc  -   its  just dry fitted  in the  pic.
 
OC.

Evening  all,    the missing pics  from yesterday,   also  I have  started  on the  wall  using Two  thicknesses  of  wood  joined  together, it will  create  a  left angle  wall  stepped  down  on the  long run  -  with  bricks scribed into  it.
 
OC.

Evening all,    more  work  on my  build -  I have been detailing  my  wall  measuring the  brick  spacing  then  engraving  the  mortar   gaps.
Its  hard  to get across  the  tiny  size of  the  wall  pieces  about 12mm   tall  and  4mm  wide  and  not very  long  was  a  real test  on my  engraving skills.
 
OC.

Good day all,  the  wall  is  completed  and dry fitted  with  me little man  just for  scale,   the  bottom  strip  will  not be seen  when I make up  the  layers  for  the  grass  and  cobbles.
 
OC.

Understanding the history of a battle is as much as understanding what they did as where they did it.... What is easier to understand than the where... A line on a map cannot bring full understanding....
 
You sir are creating a picture where understanding is plainly evident....
 
Modeling the where in addition to the what is a class of modeling above the usual...
 
Your in the groove Brother... A masterpiece in the offing...

Morning all,   so   working forward  -  I have  glued down the  raised  floor  for  the  wood store  (no real  excitement  as it will  be mostly  covered),  but  the next  move  is  to  work  on the  brick  wall, I am  making this a  Belgium Grey  wall  (as  it  was  going from local history and  pics  of the period)    I have  done a  basic  primer  and  stone  Grey  coat,  next   I will  make a few  different  shades  of  Grey  -  Light  -  Dark  -  Sandy   in  a  few  pools  in my  wet pallet  (flower pot  drip  plate)   then randomly  paint  the  bricks  the different  colours,   after  leaving to  dry  I will  then  add my  dry brushing  dust  -  leave  to  dry   then  after  add a few  dark  washes.
 
OC.

Evening all,    working on my wall  -   random  brick colours  done  then a  dusty  dry  brush,  this  will  be  followed up  tomorrow  with a  wash or  Two  to darken  it all  - kind of looks  like a wall.
 
OC.
 
 

Afternoon  all,   right  - washes added  to the  wall, then  glued  down, also  I added  wee bit more  washes  to  the  general areas  to dirty it up a  little, the  log store  still needs  its  extension  placing.
 
OC.

Well, it’s been a while since my last update. Lots of things going on in my household - including an open house for the happy occasion of my mother’s 90th birthday 🎂.  I’ve found this build to be challenging because of the small parts and the instructions being less clear than I’d like. The bevelled edges that need to be glued are also a bit tricky to stabilize as the glue sets.   Here’s a photo of my current progress. Thanks for looking in, Scott
 

There  was one  in my  Revell   kit   - 
 
OC.

Dear all,
a short update with nothing exciting, but I needed to complete some necessary activities in preparation for closing the fuselage halves. One very tedious task was to address the many ejector pin marks on the fuselage inner sides. Then, the interior was furnished and some 'fantasy' cabling was added:

The two halves are now ready to receive some black paint before the interior green. Meanwhile, I finished to weather the bomb bay with the application of some black and brown Tamiya panel liner:

It turned out quite OK when inside the fuselage, although I must say that little of it will be seen because it will be covered by the structures that will held the bombs and half of it will be hidden by the doors of the cannons bay:

In the nose, I am replacing the Browning machine guns muzzles with the very nice Master brass additions:

I will glue them in place later on, probably after the application of the camouflage. I am not going to detail the gun bay and probably I will close this compartment after having glued the muzzle definitively in place. Finally, I am posting a picture of the completed cockpit tested inside the fuselage to show how much of it will be visible:

That is all for now, thanks for following,
Dan

I have commisioned a second figure of Nelson using a new carver with more accurate facial features:
 
These are a work in progress with a little more tweaking required. The render showing Nelson on the plinth was the first. I asked, based on previous feedback, to have dowels on the bottom of the feet and holes to take the dowels in the plinth, if people want to display the figure either on the plinth, or on the deck directly.

Well, it’s been a while since my last update. Lots of things going on in my household - including an open house for the happy occasion of my mother’s 90th birthday 🎂.  I’ve found this build to be challenging because of the small parts and the instructions being less clear than I’d like. The bevelled edges that need to be glued are also a bit tricky to stabilize as the glue sets.   Here’s a photo of my current progress. Thanks for looking in, Scott
 

Well, it’s been a while since my last update. Lots of things going on in my household - including an open house for the happy occasion of my mother’s 90th birthday 🎂.  I’ve found this build to be challenging because of the small parts and the instructions being less clear than I’d like. The bevelled edges that need to be glued are also a bit tricky to stabilize as the glue sets.   Here’s a photo of my current progress. Thanks for looking in, Scott
 

Well, it’s been a while since my last update. Lots of things going on in my household - including an open house for the happy occasion of my mother’s 90th birthday 🎂.  I’ve found this build to be challenging because of the small parts and the instructions being less clear than I’d like. The bevelled edges that need to be glued are also a bit tricky to stabilize as the glue sets.   Here’s a photo of my current progress. Thanks for looking in, Scott
 

Well, it’s been a while since my last update. Lots of things going on in my household - including an open house for the happy occasion of my mother’s 90th birthday 🎂.  I’ve found this build to be challenging because of the small parts and the instructions being less clear than I’d like. The bevelled edges that need to be glued are also a bit tricky to stabilize as the glue sets.   Here’s a photo of my current progress. Thanks for looking in, Scott
 

Well, it’s been a while since my last update. Lots of things going on in my household - including an open house for the happy occasion of my mother’s 90th birthday 🎂.  I’ve found this build to be challenging because of the small parts and the instructions being less clear than I’d like. The bevelled edges that need to be glued are also a bit tricky to stabilize as the glue sets.   Here’s a photo of my current progress. Thanks for looking in, Scott
 

Well, it’s been a while since my last update. Lots of things going on in my household - including an open house for the happy occasion of my mother’s 90th birthday 🎂.  I’ve found this build to be challenging because of the small parts and the instructions being less clear than I’d like. The bevelled edges that need to be glued are also a bit tricky to stabilize as the glue sets.   Here’s a photo of my current progress. Thanks for looking in, Scott
 

And some more features of the fore deck.
Only the grey stuff is Merit, all the rest is brass and resin from Pontos.

 
Until next update, enjoy modelling.

Hi all,
 
This week, just a quick pic of some sub-assemblies I've made up whilst focusing on gardening/planting duties.
 
Below, a couple of side panels, the engine bay bulkhead assembly and the floor with seats and control levers added.  These will all now be put to one side as I concentrate on the next page of the manual, the radio gear.

 
Coming soon, the radio gear and cabinets.

 
Sorry this is so brief. I hope to get back to longer posts in a few weeks.
 
Richard

Ok after a disgraceful delay due to work priorities I finally have gotten back to the Triumph and remembered what I was doing.
I now have two very nice looking wire spoked wheels. The method of leaving a few plastic spokes in place and working your way around the wheel replacing them worked very well, the final wheel remained true and the hub centred. You have to take a little care to keep the correct spoke pattern, but not that difficult once you get your sequence going. One key piece of advice I would have is to make sure the two wheel rim sides are strongly welded together using CA before trying to mount the rubber. Learned that the usual hard way. 
I assembled all the frame tubing and airbrushed it a metallic black, followed by a satin spray to dull it down a bit. I’ll probably do the body components another colour. Mounted the engine, will add some more finish detail with it in place.
 

Next came all the parts for the fore deck:
Bent, soldered, cleaned up and assembled all the parts shown in step 26. Most are Pontos replacements.

 
Until next update, enjoy modelling.

Back to the model:
The last part to prepare for the middle part of the main deck.
Pontos part 519 is bent into a box and soldered, and glued with Merit part G39 to the fore funnelbase.

 
Until next update, enjoy modelling.

As promissed a few post ago: the displaycase.
As I would never have been able to make such perfect joints, I ordered 2 frames, one for my next project, a fully detailed DKM Bismarck (the one in the picture is operational and thus not so detailed) and one for MIkasa (standing).
They came in at last.
In the picture below:
- the 2 frames
- bottomplate for Mikasa
- plexiglass sheets cut to measure
- 1 woodn beam 12 mm thick (as thickness as the horizontal part of the frame
- 1 aluminum profile for LEDstrips
- 1 grey cover for the profile in order to difuse the light
- 2 meter Ledstrip 5V with USB-connector

 
First I drilled a 4 mm hole through the horizontal part of the frame.

 
I drilled 2 10 mm holes for the lampfittingparts (hollow threaded rod 30 mm in length) at a distance exactly maching the holes in the bottom of the model.

 
The 12 mm thick slats turned out to be just a tiny bit less thick than the frame so I cut them to length and added some leftover wood from my Victory-project.

 
The bottomplate is now glued in the center of the frame.

 
and weighed down.

 
After glueing the plexigglass (polycarbonate) I testfitted the showcase in the frame.

 
glueing leaves to be desired, but the fit is perfect.
 
While the clear varnish is drying,
 
I cut the aluminum profile to length to fit exactly in the case, wired up a corresponding length of LED-strip and glued the strip to the profile.


 
Test of the connections

 
Profile attached to the baseboard with superthin double sided tape

 
As the USB-cable was rather short, I replaced is by a computermouse cable.
Here the connection at the underside is shown, easy to repare or replace and allows for many connections to be added as I plan on lighting up the model from within as well.

 
And finaly a picture of the hull on the stand with LED-strip lit (too much light in the room to fully appreciate the effect of the warmwhite light).

 
Until next update, enjoy modelling.