gjdale

Post Fifty-one
 
Port Linings – again.
I am using 0.6mm Boxwood strip for the purpose. The cills are the easy bit, the side pieces with their angles not so.

1751(2)
A card template was made to cut the sides from 10mm wide boxwood strip.
 
Each side needing final sanding and fitting, forty-four pieces in total, quite a time consuming business, and not a very exciting one.
Waiting for the replacement Quarter Gallery part to arrive gave me the impetus to get stuck in.

1757
Fitting in progress, to my eye the ports look better lined.

1790
It has taken 3 days to complete the fit, but the tricky part remains of painting the linings without marking the topsides planking.

1781
Cleaning up the inside bulwarks. 
 
A specifically designed sanding stick was required to avoid catching the spirketting and deck clamps whilst  smoothing off the  inboard linings.
In reality the Quick-works should extend over the inboard linings but having used  the pre-cut  inboard  bulwark patterns  this option was not available.

1787
I will leave any further work on the linings for the present, as the replacement gallery window patterns have arrived, (thanks Chris) and I can now complete the Starboard Quarter gallery.
 
B.E.
14/12/21
 
 
 
 

Thanks Bob.
 
Hi All,
Small update:
 
Not too much activity in the Ship Room" today, I'm a bit knackered/stuffed. 🙂
 
Managed to get a nice fillet around the Prop Shaft shrouds. (If that's what they're called.)
Been studying PDF's in terms of what is coming up.
I have pretty much decided to add the two Starboard side Stern Portholes that I had omitted. (I guess I'm a little fussy at times. 🙂)
 
So, I won't add the Stern Grab Rails as yet but will continue with the Aft Superstructure PE sides. (It will be good to have them installed one day soonish. (PE still fills with a certain amount of dread at this time but I guess like anything else it will become the norm.)
 
 I took some photos that I will share of progress thus far with components just placed, helps to give me a bit more enthusiasm also.
 
As Clark Gabel said in Gone With The Wind, "Tomorrows another day!!" 
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
Photos:

Ah - that's good then - a whole 1/16" to spare. What could possibly go wrong? 😁
 
I'm still a couple of weeks away from starting my Amati Hannah - gotta get this Capstan Project finished first (thanks for looking in).

Glen, I might be pointing out the obvious here, but.......
 
Your bottle neck opening is 11/16".
 
Your scale model breadth is 3/4" (ie 12/16")
 
Do we have a problem?
 
 

I’d be happy to help with emptying the whiskey bottle Glen! This sounds like a very interesting build and I love your idea for display. I’m taking a front row seat for this one. 😊

Good catch, Grant.  Yes, the breadth should be 5/8".  Thank you!

The bottle opening is only 11/16”. which is smaller than my two previous SIBs.  There’s a lot going on with the smokestack, vent pipes, railing, and ship's boats, so this will definitely challenge my limited skills.  Here’s the basic concept I’ve got in mind.

I’d be happy to help with emptying the whiskey bottle Glen! This sounds like a very interesting build and I love your idea for display. I’m taking a front row seat for this one. 😊

After a brief side project making some bandsawn Reindeer Christmas decorations, 
 

 
it was time to proceed with the Capstan Body. 
 
The Capstan Body is assembly P/N 300 and is comprised of the Barrel (P/N 301), the Whelps (P/N 029), the Chocks (P/N 030 and 031), and the retaining pin assembly (P/N 303).
Barrel (P/N 301)
The barrel, while made from a single piece of timber, has a varying cross section. At the top it is square, the mid-portion is ten-sided, and the lower part is circular, with a stepped section for the gasket. The retaining pin assembly is also cut from the same piece of stock. All of these cross-sections are achieved using a combination of the lathe and the mill.
 
It all starts with a square blank. The length of the blank needs to be long enough for a little extra length for work holding, but short enough that it will fit in the mill mounting arrangement (seen later).
 
Rather than mounting the (not-quite) square blank in a four-jaw chuck and leaving the extra length square-ish in section, I opted to mount it between centres and turn the entire length, which would subsequently allow me to mount it in a three-jaw chuck. Here is the start of the process.
 

 
Once the entire length was turned down to the maximum diameter of the barrel, the narrower sections for the gasket and the part that will go through the Capstan Step were turned down.
 

 
The part was then removed from the lathe and inserted in a three-jaw chuck, which was mounted on the mill rotary table, which was attached to a right-angle mount. The “tail” end was supported using an adjustable tailstock holder. Here is the overall set-up, which facilitated milling of the ten-sided section and the square top section. In this photo all of the milling has been completed.
 

 
All of that sounds easy, and it is if you pay attention to correct set-up of your mill – which I failed to do on the first attempt. It had been quite a while since I had used the mill and I simply forgot some of the basics. After a failed first attempt, I started over and this time spent the necessary time to align the rotary table in both the Y and Z axes, and to align the tail-stock holder properly with the chuck. A little bit of fiddling to be sure, but really the only way to ensure that your final product will be what you intended, within the tolerances you intended.
 
The part was left in the chuck and the chuck removed from the rotary table and returned to the lathe for the next operation. After using a 1/8” centre drill to start the hole, a regular 1/8” drill bit was used to drill through the excess material, through what would become the retaining pin assembly, and into the base of the capstan body. This departs slightly from Toni’s drawing and is a little bit of a “cheat”, but was the easiest way to ensure that the holes for the retaining pin aligned perfectly.
 

 
The main body was then separated from the retaining pin assembly and cut roughly to length at the top (square) end. The main body was then reversed in the chuck and the square end cut down to final length by a series of facing cuts on the lathe. Similarly, the retaining piece was cut to rough length with a hand saw and then re-inserted in the chuck and trimmed to final length with another series of facing cuts. After test-fitting the assembly, I found that the retaining piece needed to be significantly shorter than shown in the drawings in order that it not extend below the deck beams. This was a simple fix – the piece was marked to a new final length directly from the deck beams and re-inserted in the lathe for another series of facing cuts.
 
A piece of 1/8” diameter brass rod was cut to length for the retaining pin (P/N 028) and epoxied into the retaining piece (P/N 027). Here is a picture of all three pieces prior to gluing the retaining pin in place.
 

 
The Whelps are next….

I’d be happy to help with emptying the whiskey bottle Glen! This sounds like a very interesting build and I love your idea for display. I’m taking a front row seat for this one. 😊

Not been around for a while but I recently bought a new ship kit to keep me occupied over Christmas (no doubt a lot longer than that). I need a plank cutter for making multiple repeat 90 degree cuts. Yes I know I could have bought one, but I figured I would make use of my other hobby and 3D print one and thought people here might like to see it.
 
It takes a Swann Morton scalpel blade and lets me do any angle between 45 and 90 with adjustable/removeable fences to make repeat cuts.
 
This is the first version and already thinking about changes to improve it. Probably change it to use standard double edged razor blades among other things.
 

Hello and thank you for all your likes
Today I finished the chain plates at the star board side. 

I see it every time at the pictures, but the underwater ship is't so dirty. That is mostly noise in the picture.
 
The next thing would be, finishing the anchor lining. There I have 3 opportunities

After Goodwin the upper part should be parallel lined, but I found also models where it is't so. I would let the lining end under the channel, not in front of it, and prefer the curve #2. At these older ships the channels where mostly set at the waist rail, later below it, and I would't brake that line. At the models you see it sometimes so, or so.

Floyd,
 
I bought my LoS online (can’t remember the supplier now, but a quick Google search should provide some options).
 
The one bit of advice I’d offer here is to buy the LoS in gel form. Then you can put a very small blob on a paint palette, put a drop of water next to it, and then dip a paint brush where the two meet. I find this technique provides a good strength solution, without getting too scientific about ratios. I think it was Ed Tosti who first suggested that approach to me. Anyway, it works for me.

Floyd,
 
I bought my LoS online (can’t remember the supplier now, but a quick Google search should provide some options).
 
The one bit of advice I’d offer here is to buy the LoS in gel form. Then you can put a very small blob on a paint palette, put a drop of water next to it, and then dip a paint brush where the two meet. I find this technique provides a good strength solution, without getting too scientific about ratios. I think it was Ed Tosti who first suggested that approach to me. Anyway, it works for me.

Great work on the paint job Mark. Even the “wall side” looks good to me.

Great work on the paint job Mark. Even the “wall side” looks good to me.

After a brief side project making some bandsawn Reindeer Christmas decorations, 
 

 
it was time to proceed with the Capstan Body. 
 
The Capstan Body is assembly P/N 300 and is comprised of the Barrel (P/N 301), the Whelps (P/N 029), the Chocks (P/N 030 and 031), and the retaining pin assembly (P/N 303).
Barrel (P/N 301)
The barrel, while made from a single piece of timber, has a varying cross section. At the top it is square, the mid-portion is ten-sided, and the lower part is circular, with a stepped section for the gasket. The retaining pin assembly is also cut from the same piece of stock. All of these cross-sections are achieved using a combination of the lathe and the mill.
 
It all starts with a square blank. The length of the blank needs to be long enough for a little extra length for work holding, but short enough that it will fit in the mill mounting arrangement (seen later).
 
Rather than mounting the (not-quite) square blank in a four-jaw chuck and leaving the extra length square-ish in section, I opted to mount it between centres and turn the entire length, which would subsequently allow me to mount it in a three-jaw chuck. Here is the start of the process.
 

 
Once the entire length was turned down to the maximum diameter of the barrel, the narrower sections for the gasket and the part that will go through the Capstan Step were turned down.
 

 
The part was then removed from the lathe and inserted in a three-jaw chuck, which was mounted on the mill rotary table, which was attached to a right-angle mount. The “tail” end was supported using an adjustable tailstock holder. Here is the overall set-up, which facilitated milling of the ten-sided section and the square top section. In this photo all of the milling has been completed.
 

 
All of that sounds easy, and it is if you pay attention to correct set-up of your mill – which I failed to do on the first attempt. It had been quite a while since I had used the mill and I simply forgot some of the basics. After a failed first attempt, I started over and this time spent the necessary time to align the rotary table in both the Y and Z axes, and to align the tail-stock holder properly with the chuck. A little bit of fiddling to be sure, but really the only way to ensure that your final product will be what you intended, within the tolerances you intended.
 
The part was left in the chuck and the chuck removed from the rotary table and returned to the lathe for the next operation. After using a 1/8” centre drill to start the hole, a regular 1/8” drill bit was used to drill through the excess material, through what would become the retaining pin assembly, and into the base of the capstan body. This departs slightly from Toni’s drawing and is a little bit of a “cheat”, but was the easiest way to ensure that the holes for the retaining pin aligned perfectly.
 

 
The main body was then separated from the retaining pin assembly and cut roughly to length at the top (square) end. The main body was then reversed in the chuck and the square end cut down to final length by a series of facing cuts on the lathe. Similarly, the retaining piece was cut to rough length with a hand saw and then re-inserted in the chuck and trimmed to final length with another series of facing cuts. After test-fitting the assembly, I found that the retaining piece needed to be significantly shorter than shown in the drawings in order that it not extend below the deck beams. This was a simple fix – the piece was marked to a new final length directly from the deck beams and re-inserted in the lathe for another series of facing cuts.
 
A piece of 1/8” diameter brass rod was cut to length for the retaining pin (P/N 028) and epoxied into the retaining piece (P/N 027). Here is a picture of all three pieces prior to gluing the retaining pin in place.
 

 
The Whelps are next….

Great work on the paint job Mark. Even the “wall side” looks good to me.

I was keen this morning to see how Chuck’s magic looked on Sphinx.
I am not disappointed.

1763

1762
The arrangement will be enhanced once the decorative rails are applied top and bottom of the counters.

1768
Before the final pieces are applied I will lightly spray with artists fixative which may slightly change the colour.
I will need to create a paint mix close to the final tone for areas where background painting is required, but that’s a way ahead.
 
Thank you so much Chuck, what an asset you are to the ship modelling community. 👏
 
B.E.

Floyd,
 
I bought my LoS online (can’t remember the supplier now, but a quick Google search should provide some options).
 
The one bit of advice I’d offer here is to buy the LoS in gel form. Then you can put a very small blob on a paint palette, put a drop of water next to it, and then dip a paint brush where the two meet. I find this technique provides a good strength solution, without getting too scientific about ratios. I think it was Ed Tosti who first suggested that approach to me. Anyway, it works for me.

Great work on the paint job Mark. Even the “wall side” looks good to me.

Finally have the port side done with painting and touch ups.. more touch ups, ad infinitum ad nauseum.  So here's two pics.  I've turned the hull around and started the yellow on the starboard side.   All things considered, I'm pretty pleased with the result so far.

The third quadrant has been completed: 
 

 
I know that a lot of experts will see my construction as blasphemy and heresy to what should be done. It is okay and I understand their point of view.
I did the best I could, knowing that this hull will be copper tiled and that most of the planking will be hidden. The most important for me was to embrace the shapes and curves of the hull and to make progress in a relatively decent amount of time.
 
The original planks are 8 mm x 3 mm of poplar/limewood strips. To accommodate the sharp curve of the bow in two dimensions/directions, I decided to slice each plank into two 4 mm x 3 mm strakes. It is a lot easier to handle and I built the planking from the whales up to the mid hull, like a stair with enough steps overlap. Once sanded, the hull is very round and still offers a decent level of sturdiness and solidity. A tiny amount of wood paste is necessary in some places to fill up some of the steps, so created.
 

 
From the keel down, the planking is placed directly against the bulkeads, until the strakes meet as pictured below: 
 
 
The overall results is rather nice (at least in my humble opinion) and replicates quite accurately the external curves of the ship. It is a lot of work as close to 40 small strakes had to be glued one after the other to create the bow: 
 

 
This is where I stand at this moment: 
 

 
I think I will be finishing the port side of the hull, before moving to the other side: 
 

 
Yves

Very nice workmanship!

Sweet project