bartley

I used to  buy these sample pots as well but eventually I found that the coarse pigments in house paint resulted in a "grainy finish".  I now bite the bullet and pay the money for model paints such as Valejo and I  believe the finish is superior.
 
John

I used to  buy these sample pots as well but eventually I found that the coarse pigments in house paint resulted in a "grainy finish".  I now bite the bullet and pay the money for model paints such as Valejo and I  believe the finish is superior.
 
John

I used to  buy these sample pots as well but eventually I found that the coarse pigments in house paint resulted in a "grainy finish".  I now bite the bullet and pay the money for model paints such as Valejo and I  believe the finish is superior.
 
John

Post 21
 
False Deck and Caprails
 
It took me a couple of goes to get a reasonable fit for the false deck
 

 
Then the bulwarks were planked and painted
 

 
And finally the caprails added in three pieces
 


 
I am not sure why the stern here looks so dirty.  This must be something to do with the lighting I used because it is quite clean in fact.
 
John

There seems to be a bit of confusion here with the chemistry.  It is a bit pedantic but I think it helps in trying to classify these products.
 
PVA stands for poly vinyl acetate  (not acrylate)  Titebond, Elmers and book binders  glue are all PVA's but the exact formulation gives rise to different or pH's or acidity.  The significant thing about Bookbinders glue and some other "craft" glues is that they are neutral (pH 7).  CA is cyano acrylate.  This is a very different animal as we know from its properties. Note it is not a polymer in the bottle but polymerizes on contact with moisture.  Many acrylates are lachrymatory ((they make us cry) However, Perspex and the polymer in water based paints are also acrylates but they have a different chemical structure and are less harmful, largely because they are already polymerized and so are relatively stable although hey do degrade with time. CA is what we call a monomer ie it is a small molecule and so has some rather dangerous properties. Once it has polymerized or "set" it is much less harmful.
 
Hope this iis not too confusing,
 
John

Alan,
 
The pH of the faster setting PVA's like Tightbond is around 2.5. This is very acidic and I believe that there is a chance that it will damage natural fiber line over time.  You have to ask yourself why bookbinders use neutral PVA.  Books are cellulose just like natural fiber line is.  Synthetic line might be OK. but I always use neutral PVA on my rigging to be on the safe side.  It does take longer to set of course.
 
John

Post 21
 
False Deck and Caprails
 
It took me a couple of goes to get a reasonable fit for the false deck
 

 
Then the bulwarks were planked and painted
 

 
And finally the caprails added in three pieces
 


 
I am not sure why the stern here looks so dirty.  This must be something to do with the lighting I used because it is quite clean in fact.
 
John

Post 21
 
False Deck and Caprails
 
It took me a couple of goes to get a reasonable fit for the false deck
 

 
Then the bulwarks were planked and painted
 

 
And finally the caprails added in three pieces
 


 
I am not sure why the stern here looks so dirty.  This must be something to do with the lighting I used because it is quite clean in fact.
 
John

Post 21
 
False Deck and Caprails
 
It took me a couple of goes to get a reasonable fit for the false deck
 

 
Then the bulwarks were planked and painted
 

 
And finally the caprails added in three pieces
 


 
I am not sure why the stern here looks so dirty.  This must be something to do with the lighting I used because it is quite clean in fact.
 
John

Post 21
 
False Deck and Caprails
 
It took me a couple of goes to get a reasonable fit for the false deck
 

 
Then the bulwarks were planked and painted
 

 
And finally the caprails added in three pieces
 


 
I am not sure why the stern here looks so dirty.  This must be something to do with the lighting I used because it is quite clean in fact.
 
John

Post 21
 
False Deck and Caprails
 
It took me a couple of goes to get a reasonable fit for the false deck
 

 
Then the bulwarks were planked and painted
 

 
And finally the caprails added in three pieces
 


 
I am not sure why the stern here looks so dirty.  This must be something to do with the lighting I used because it is quite clean in fact.
 
John

Post 21
 
False Deck and Caprails
 
It took me a couple of goes to get a reasonable fit for the false deck
 

 
Then the bulwarks were planked and painted
 

 
And finally the caprails added in three pieces
 


 
I am not sure why the stern here looks so dirty.  This must be something to do with the lighting I used because it is quite clean in fact.
 
John

Post 21
 
False Deck and Caprails
 
It took me a couple of goes to get a reasonable fit for the false deck
 

 
Then the bulwarks were planked and painted
 

 
And finally the caprails added in three pieces
 


 
I am not sure why the stern here looks so dirty.  This must be something to do with the lighting I used because it is quite clean in fact.
 
John

Post 20
 
Fancy Molding
 
I made a scraper (several in fact) by cutting into an old hacksaw blade using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade.
 


 


 

I found the production of these moldings quite challenging. Because I have only a limited supply of boxwood I made some initial tests with yellow cedar. However, this  gave very indistinct results and it was only when I used boxwood that I could obtain a satisfactory profile.  I also stuck the strip to my bench with double sided tape to stop it moving. I found that several light strokes were best until the profile was established and then I could be more aggressive.
 

Post 20
 
Fancy Molding
 
I made a scraper (several in fact) by cutting into an old hacksaw blade using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade.
 


 


 

I found the production of these moldings quite challenging. Because I have only a limited supply of boxwood I made some initial tests with yellow cedar. However, this  gave very indistinct results and it was only when I used boxwood that I could obtain a satisfactory profile.  I also stuck the strip to my bench with double sided tape to stop it moving. I found that several light strokes were best until the profile was established and then I could be more aggressive.
 

Post 20
 
Fancy Molding
 
I made a scraper (several in fact) by cutting into an old hacksaw blade using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade.
 


 


 

I found the production of these moldings quite challenging. Because I have only a limited supply of boxwood I made some initial tests with yellow cedar. However, this  gave very indistinct results and it was only when I used boxwood that I could obtain a satisfactory profile.  I also stuck the strip to my bench with double sided tape to stop it moving. I found that several light strokes were best until the profile was established and then I could be more aggressive.
 

I definitely like the subtle treenail effect.  

Post 20
 
Fancy Molding
 
I made a scraper (several in fact) by cutting into an old hacksaw blade using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade.
 


 


 

I found the production of these moldings quite challenging. Because I have only a limited supply of boxwood I made some initial tests with yellow cedar. However, this  gave very indistinct results and it was only when I used boxwood that I could obtain a satisfactory profile.  I also stuck the strip to my bench with double sided tape to stop it moving. I found that several light strokes were best until the profile was established and then I could be more aggressive.
 

Post 20
 
Fancy Molding
 
I made a scraper (several in fact) by cutting into an old hacksaw blade using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade.
 


 


 

I found the production of these moldings quite challenging. Because I have only a limited supply of boxwood I made some initial tests with yellow cedar. However, this  gave very indistinct results and it was only when I used boxwood that I could obtain a satisfactory profile.  I also stuck the strip to my bench with double sided tape to stop it moving. I found that several light strokes were best until the profile was established and then I could be more aggressive.
 

Post 20
 
Fancy Molding
 
I made a scraper (several in fact) by cutting into an old hacksaw blade using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade.
 


 


 

I found the production of these moldings quite challenging. Because I have only a limited supply of boxwood I made some initial tests with yellow cedar. However, this  gave very indistinct results and it was only when I used boxwood that I could obtain a satisfactory profile.  I also stuck the strip to my bench with double sided tape to stop it moving. I found that several light strokes were best until the profile was established and then I could be more aggressive.
 

Post 19 - Treenails
 
I used Chuck's method of drilling and filling. I used 1.3 mm tape to ensure that the holes were in line and corresponded to bulkheads and predicted positions of frames
 
 
 
 
I then used a sharp HB pencil to line the holes ans simulate tar.  I found that care was needed here.  If I was too aggressive there was excess graphite around the hole which made the filler darker resulting in a variation in the colour of the treenails
 

 
The result is quite subtle - as I believe it should be.  The treenails can only really be seen from up close
 


 
 
 
When I was a boy two Dutch children arrived at my school - no English, but it didn't take long
 
 
After a year or so their father built a house for the family.
 
 
This house was unique for two reasons:
 
 
1. It was varnished - in those days all houses in our town were painted.
 
 
2. It was claimed that he used no nails.
 
 
It turned out that all of the external weather-boards were attached to the studs with wooden pegs - treenails! (although I didn't Know the term then)
 
 
When I visited the house after getting to know the Dutch children I found that from the road there was no evidence of any pegs..  It was only when one approached within a meter or so that the begs became obvious,
 
 
I don't know if he had worked in the ship building industry but the point was that the effect of the wooden pegs was quite subtle.
 
 
John
 
 
 

Post 20
 
Fancy Molding
 
I made a scraper (several in fact) by cutting into an old hacksaw blade using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade.
 


 


 

I found the production of these moldings quite challenging. Because I have only a limited supply of boxwood I made some initial tests with yellow cedar. However, this  gave very indistinct results and it was only when I used boxwood that I could obtain a satisfactory profile.  I also stuck the strip to my bench with double sided tape to stop it moving. I found that several light strokes were best until the profile was established and then I could be more aggressive.
 

Post 20
 
Fancy Molding
 
I made a scraper (several in fact) by cutting into an old hacksaw blade using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade.
 


 


 

I found the production of these moldings quite challenging. Because I have only a limited supply of boxwood I made some initial tests with yellow cedar. However, this  gave very indistinct results and it was only when I used boxwood that I could obtain a satisfactory profile.  I also stuck the strip to my bench with double sided tape to stop it moving. I found that several light strokes were best until the profile was established and then I could be more aggressive.
 

Post 18
 
I have now completed the planking. Not in Chuck's league by any means - there are a few places where the planks could be tighter but on the whole it looks OK. Its all a learning exercise for me.

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
Time to move on to the treenails now
 

Post 20
 
Fancy Molding
 
I made a scraper (several in fact) by cutting into an old hacksaw blade using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade.
 


 


 

I found the production of these moldings quite challenging. Because I have only a limited supply of boxwood I made some initial tests with yellow cedar. However, this  gave very indistinct results and it was only when I used boxwood that I could obtain a satisfactory profile.  I also stuck the strip to my bench with double sided tape to stop it moving. I found that several light strokes were best until the profile was established and then I could be more aggressive.