Ian_Grant
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Everything posted by Ian_Grant
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That's some bend in those 2nd planks but that's why they're thin. Off topic Bill, but have you seen Occre's wood/metal locomotive models? They look great but I don't know if I'd have the skill to build one, having downloaded instructions to see what they're like. I'd need to buy an airbrush and learn how to use it. -
Looks good; well done!
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Bill, I assume that you carve the balsa flush with 1st planking, then plank over the balsa with 2nd planking?
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So far, so good!
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Thanks Pat, trust me I will not be painting them by hand! I was thinking decal or label paper if I could buy small quantity of sheets. "Paint" is weird to learn. Probably just me.
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Working on the gold and yellow decorative painting at the bow. She's really coming to life! Painting touch-ups at edges of the yellow trim will be ongoing I am sure. Rather like the stern balusters on the Heller Victory. 😏 Her personality changed when I painted the black at bow and on the cap rails....entire u/w hull will be black. Now trying to figure out how to draw her eyes in "Paint".
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Are they actually doing that in Europe now? I had no idea. There was some mention of "them" thinking of doing it here in North America in "Driving" magazine. It would raise a lot of resentment since one pays for the hardware in the car at time of purchase. It ought to be yours to use.
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I've always wondered about these grey decks. Yes museum ships sitting outside nowadays may have a grey appearance, but in the actual period crews of king's ships holystoned and rinsed the deck daily, at first light. My deck out back is grey after the winter, but when I wash it even just with dish soap and a scrub by broom it is brown again. There are many mentions, at least in Forrester's books, of "snowy white" decks on admirals' three-deckers. Just putting this in for discussion.
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Thanks 'Rookie", I could only have done it at this stage of life, with time (and money) available and career experience. 😊 Marc, I'm honoured to receive praise from you given the incredible model you are making of the SR! Thank you.
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Enjoy TinkerCAD ..... it's amazing what you can do with it. Any questions just ask.
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Put the lathe back under the bench; wonder if I'll ever use it again? Before doing that I vacuumed out under there in the process discovering objects such as a long-lost hammer. So I decided to empty and vacuum the shelf under the bench and found more stuff, including a box with my wife's late grandfather's carving tools and some bandsawn blanks of his for horses etc (he was a farmer who loved his workhorses), and this little jewel which I believe was the grade 11 machine shop project. I recall hardening the jaws and polishing before assembly. Fond memories! I will take grandpa's box to the cottage this summer and while away some down time trying to produce a creditable horse, in his memory.
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Thanks guys, but in this case the "Ferrari" is far far slower than the "VW's". But it is cool to see the oars rowing.....😉
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Good question. Being standing rigging I expect it would run round the collar and be seized securely to itself. God knows what I actually did on my model; it's hard to even see now.
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Yes, a "purchase" means a tackle of some sort involving one or more multi-sheaved blocks. Except a simple whip which is a single block. Luckily you can trim your lines shorter to add a block, no need to stretch any. 🙂
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Some photos from the pool session. It was the first time I've seen RC submarines dive; very cool and fascinating to see their workings and have it all explained to you. One modeller told me not to get into submarines "unless you really enjoy constant tinkering and experimentation". They were FAST under water!! The cruiser on the bottom right, with the nice wood deck, is RIDICULOUSLY fast; two seconds at full speed then reverse to avoid hitting the pool wall. Something about a water-cooled brushless motor.
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Hi Malcolm, The usual thing was to tighten the stay then frap the running end round and round between the blocks, like the wraps around the gammoning. Your other two black lines should have similar purchases using blocks, again with the running ends frapped around themselves. NOW it really gets crowded. In order to be completely accurate the fore topmast stay and preventer stay should have ""long tackle" blocks instead of a standard double (Pg 222). You can glue two different-sized blocks together, or just use doubles; I won't tell. ☺️ As for the fore royal stay, I tied it off to the forestay collar as Longridge mentions, reasoning that the knightheads were "full". The forestay collar is the loop at the base of the forestay that goes around the bowsprit (Fig 140, pg 214). The fore royal stay can be tied off to the port "leg" of the collar, above the bowsprit, below the heart, since this stay comes from a block on the port side of the bowsprit as you mentioned.
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Renewed bow bulwarks cleaned up and repainted to the previous state, i.e. still no paint on cap rails. I like the new look much better, as does Marcus because he can now see forward and has a greater length of "fighting bulwark". Unfortunately, I am now sorely tempted to change the stern as well. 🤔 Here are a couple of images. I was forced to redo all the little panels below the cap rail because the original sweep of the bottom part did not suit the new cap rail sweep. I finally bethought myself of using evergreen strip for the curved bit instead of wood strip. How easy to form the bend! Can't wait to see how she looks with yellow/gold paint on the brass trim strips! This afternoon there is another RC boat club session at a local indoor pool. I'll see how the old stern bulwarks look on the water and decide whether to hacksaw them too. After this water session I will remove all the mechanics and electronics and really get going on finishing up this hull. Thanks for following!
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West system is great epoxy, but even it needs UV-protective varnish or at least it did when I made my canoe many years ago. Might you need another coat to protect your fine build?
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Hi Malcolm, I sent you a PM.
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With the possible exception of the Tweety/Sylvester episode where Tweety's cage is by a 2nd floor window, and the little old lady keeps about 60 dogs in her yard. My favourite part is Sylvester reaches the window on stilts, then Tweety throws a bunch of wood saws to the dogs and we see the cat beating a hasty retreat but getting ever lower to the sound of saws. I still laugh just thinking about it. Sorry to digress in your log, Malcolm. Carry on ......
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I love the road runner 'toons and all the "Acme" parcel deliveries. I read somewhere that they've all been "sanitized" now to make them less violent. Sigh.
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Hi Malcolm; Your rigging is looking nice. I had similar issues with beeswax - lanyard threads looked great until I pulled them through 3 blocks, or six times through deadeye holes, then the fuzzies reappeared. Especially with my .1mm natural for some reason. I smoothed them again between my fingers, where feasible. Later in the build you'll be finding bits of beeswax on the decks too .... 😠 Out of curiosity, what are the natural threads coming out of the hull forward of the bowsprit shroud ends?
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Turns out Lee Valley has a line of woodworking chucks, which accept any one of a bunch of different threaded inserts one of which fits this lathe's headstock thread and taper. Food for thought.
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