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Baker

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Everything posted by Baker

  1. Baker
    Next, The further finishing of the cannon deck. And start building the basis for the waist and the fore castle. There is also a cabin at the front. The crew of the (optional) cannon has a lot of space again... The sloping side of the cabin will later serve as a basis for a staircase I run out of wood supplies. So the men from the sawmill were put to work (me...) There is material of 3,4,5,6,7,8 and 9mm thickness back in stock. Thanks for following
  2. Baker
    Continued with the planking on the rear castle. Frames 6, 8 and 10, which served as the basis for the rear castle, were too thick and were therefore made thinner. I used the easy way, put the saw in and start sawing. the stern is provided with the necessary holes for the tiller, etc. The frames were too wide at the top and would cause problems later with the schrouds. The simple way, tighten with an iron wire. 1.8cm less wide at the top, and "schroud test" ok 👍 The rear castle is now temporaly on hold. Sanding the clinker planking and the interior is for later (outside the house...)
  3. Baker
    interesting project. Good luck
  4. Baker
    Nice work 👍 Mast top, not crows nest 😇.
  5. Baker
    Heller and certainly Revell have good kits. You're going to learn a lot when you build them.
  6. Baker
    I'm following an interesting build log, great work Steven 👍 learn Australian (i think 😉) And history (👍)
  7. Baker
    https://www.kaisersbunker.com/cc/cc16.htm
  8. Baker
    Beautiful model, Congrats
  9. Baker
    Impressive ... 😇
  10. Baker
    First. The schrouds problem Fortunately, cherry wood is very flexible and this can be easily solved. By stretching the frames towards each other. This is something for later, if I do this now I won't have enough space to work in the rear castle. Continued with determining the position of the decks. And the "gun wale". On this beam were the swivel guns placed on the first version of the Mary Rose, on the current version only 3 would have remained. Memory aid. Where is what Adjustment of the stern The position of the 3 swivel guns further surgery of the stern Upper deck and castle deck determined. Upper castle still to do current status Thaks for following
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  14. Baker
    Looks much better already 👍
  15. Baker
    Nice work. Only 99 ratlines to do...? Haha 😉
  16. Baker
    Beautiful rigging on the cannons. Congrats
  17. Baker
    Nice work 👍
  18. Baker
    Nice work. And get wel soon 👍👍
  19. Baker
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  21. Baker
    Very nice swivels, great work.
  22. Baker
    Looks great 👍
  23. Baker
  24. Baker
    We once discussed this on this forum in the shore leave section. Place the glued plastic pieces in the freezer. The glue would then become crumbly, and then you can separate the pieces again. I don't think you should take it apart if everything just came out of the freezer. I think your plastic is then also very fragile. Never tested this myself. so be careful, I give no guarantee 😉
  25. Baker
    The only wooden kit I made was from Billings (Vasa). My experience with their plastic parts wasn't also really "Wow" compared to the "real" plastic kits from Revell etc. The plastic parts from Billings are probably cast in short run moulds. The kits from Revell etc. are cast in real large moulds, much more expensive and intended for mass production. You will also not find holes or pins in the Billings parts to neatly glue the parts together. Considering the front of the grating and the front part of your beakhead appear to be the same length (yellow lines). I would glue the sides of the beakhead to the grating. and then make it fit your model. You may have to adjust the grating slightly so that the whole assembly moves in the direction of the arrow.

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