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Baker

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Everything posted by Baker

  1. Baker
    Thanks Jeff But it would be nice to know why they used this specific shape for the wales. totally illogical in my opinion.
  2. Baker
    Planking (from keel to first wale) Plank dimensions Thickness : 9,4 to 10,5 cm (yes, about 4 inches). width : 23 to 47 cm. length : 1,47 to 9 m. Wale dimensions thickness : about the thicknes of a plank + 11 cm. length 3.25 to 13.8 m. scarfs between 2 wales 71 to 180 cm. shape : see further in this post.... Planking diagram green color : the 2 stealers in front and back Red color : A very wide plank at the bottom of the bow. I'm going to replace it with a less wide one, otherwise I could get into trouble Bleu color : to be studied later. Construction of the wales. For some reason they gave them a rather illogical shape. I made a scraper in the desired shape method : clamp the wood to a flat plate hold the scraper at an angle to rough shape finish with the scraper at 90° result The cherry wood bends easily After drying it is glued to the hull Planking is also started assistant is supervising Thanks for following
  3. Baker
  4. Baker
    No no 🧐 Nice work
  5. Baker
    And, great work Mark 👍
  6. Baker
    These are a kind of "bow chasers". positioned in the strerncastle
  7. Baker
    The stern assembly The intention is to achieve this The plywood needs plastic surgery 😉 Glue the first part second part and the final last parts The keel is adjusted. And, it looks like on the drawing 👍
  8. Baker
    https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Soleil-Royal-Construction-Plans-Set--960.html#SID=136 But, If this is your first. Consider starting with a simpler model first
  9. Baker
    a whole arsenal 😉👍
  10. Baker
    Great work, Congrats 👍
  11. Baker
    The keel, The keel consists of 3 parts. The front and back part are made of elm, the center part is made of oak like the rest of the planking. So my center piece is made of cherry, the others are made of ramin (the last leftovers from my previous project). At the front and rear there is a groove for "stealers" that are intended as a filler between the keel and the garboard. preparation for the sternpieces The first piece of the stern Then the keel is glued And the second piece of the stern is also glued. This piece is now way too long. Shorten it later is always easier than lengthening 😉 The scarf between keel and stempost did not survive time. So there is some space for a "free design" scarfs in the keel Bringing the keel and stempost into the right shape will be done later when the planking is sanded. Next to do, the stern assembly. Thanks for following
  12. Baker
  13. Baker
    Indeed. If you are unsure of the correct shape off the hull, then this is a good method to check this (This is extra work but it pays off afterwards)
  14. Baker
  15. Baker
    The hull of billings vasa would be quite correct. do you have those plans?. Otherwise I can send them to you via pm.
  16. Baker
    thank you, with time and patience this will one day become a model Thanks, this is verry good wood for model making. Not too hard, not too soft, and bends fairly easily Thank you Michael Good idea But I'm going to recycle all of this nice wood. A ecologically built ship model 😉 and all other wood into the stove 😇.
  17. Baker
    Thanks for the comments, much appreciated 👍 Determine the position of the lower wale with the laser. The dimensions found on the sections are plotted on the hull. The laser is very useful for this purpose. The "dummy" wale in place With this dummy as example a line is drawn in pencil where the real wale comes later Half a day of free time and good weather and cherry firewood becomes cherry shipmodel wood A first batch of different thicknesses and a batch wood for planks, wales and keel. Now i have to make the complex keel out of 3 pieces, each with different shapes and thicknesses Thanks for following
  18. Baker
  19. Baker
    Indeed, Great work 👍
  20. Baker
    Oops. as a resident of the eu i am not allowed to view this
  21. Baker
    I think wood is better than plastic for ships with a wooden hull. Although some of us can do amazing things painting plastic models. Building a wooden hull is more difficult than a plastic one. But once past this point, the rest isn't much harder than a plastic model. And, wood or plastic, rigging takes the same amount of time.
  22. Baker
    Thanks. It is best to give the bulkheads a dark color. Then it is sanding off the excess material, except for the parts in the dark color. And regularly testing with a plank until the shape of the hull is correct The rest is practice, experience and "fingerspitzengefühl"
  23. Baker
    First prize 😉 👍 A very nice model Ondras
  24. Baker
    In the meantime, i have looked at where and how wales planks keel etc.. come. Planks (oak) in the lower part of the hull were 10 cm thick. Respect to the builders 500 years ago for getting this done The position of the wales and decks on section 1 3 5 6 8 and 10 The stern has also been studied. Although not proven but also not disapproved. two stern chasers will be provided to be continued, thanks for following
  25. Baker
    Fillerblocks All filler blocks are glued Sand evenly with the angle grinder 😇 After a few minutes Dust, dust, dust. Never do this indoors 😷😉 The final sanding was done by hand. The base for the hull is ready. With all the extra plywood and filler blocks, this is a solid base that will not warp later. What is already noticeable is the pointed shape of the bow. I did not expect this at all from a carrack and certainly not from one of this size

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