Baker

I have to now only focused on English shipbuilding late 16th century (for my Golden Hind).
Even the early 16th century building method looks to be different from this.
 
perhaps there is no general correct answer to this question.
 
What type of ship?
What time period?
which nation?
Maybe even on which shipyard the ship is build?
 
Each time period and country apparently had its own rules and habits.

No-one has mentioned the Mary Rose, launched in 1511 and sunk in 1545.  The remaining starboard side was raised in 1982 and is now on display in Portsmouth Dockyard (UK).  The remains have been well-documented in “Mary Rose: Your Noblest Shippe”, edited by Peter Marsden (2009).


It should be remembered that the Mary Rose was 34 years old when she sank, having spent a hard life in the Western Approaches and taken part in two battles before her final loss, and having undergone numerous repairs.  She can therefore be taken as a fair representation of shipbuilding practices in the early sixteenth century.


The material in Peter Marsden’s book addresses two of the issues discussed in this forum, the type of planking, and typical plank lengths.  Fig 6.17 of the book provides a flattened (projected) view of the surviving starboard side. 
 

 
It shows planks of widely varying widths (and thicknesses) and includes drop planks and stealers.  Planks are typically end-butted (but without any great care to ensure verticality), and the shift of the butts is pretty random.  It also shows the result of several repairs.
 
There is a relevant paragraph in the text, as well:

“The length of each plank varies from 1.47m to 10.85m, but most are between 4.5m and 9m long, the longer planks mostly being in the midships area. The shorter planks, those of less than 3m, are low down in the hull at the bow or stern and between the second and third wales (Fig. 6.16b). All the shortest planks, less than 2.75m, are between the gunports.”


The overall impression is that the choice of materials was dictated largely by what came to hand rather than a strict adherence to ‘rule’, but there were clearly substantial lengths of timber available.
 
The message seems to be that, if one is attempting to model a ship of this period, it shouldn't look too tidy.


 
 

Hi Mates,


 
Well this update, for me is actually mostly satisfying.


 
Built two more platforms, and caps

Installed all of the topmasts

Started some ratlines

Made another mouse for the mainmast stay.

Served the mainmast stay, and the block rope on the foremast

Re-worked a Corel triple, and double block

Many new blocks tweaked and attached.

Attached the double pulley at the base of the foremast for the mainmast stay, and attached the triple block.


 
===================


 
A few Grrrrrrs, of course, main topmast sheave cutout should have been angled inward, lack of foresight.


 
Main cap doesn’t quite “sit” right

Mizenmast cap is too close to its platform

Mouse should be, as you know, a woven affair.


 
What I made is obviously incorrect. I saw how to do it correctly on another’s build log. Hmm my skill set not there.


 
Always nice of you to drop by, and thanks for the encouraging notes – much appreciated.

Cheers,


 

 

 

 

 

Thank you for restart this buildlog.
I follow 

My four year build log has alas fallen victim to the latest system upgrade, and like the ship she represents is now presumed lost, as Pegasus was in 1777.
To re-instate all the information contained within the orginal log which ran for over 100 pages is a bit of an ask but where I can pick up the information quickly I will include it in this replacement log with priority being given to specific aspects where I have modified the basic kit, to produce the model which is now allbut finished.
My log which was first posted in 2013 lacked much of the earlier stages of the build which had been going since 2010, and this revision will include aspects of the earlier build stages which may assist those embarking on a new Swan build adventure.
I would like to thank all those members who have shown interest in my build over the past four years, and for the many appreciative comments and 'likes' I received. I still can't believe that over 257,000 visits were made to the log, but it is nice to think that it was of use to the membership.
Also thank you to those who have messaged me with kind words about the loss of the original log, and with offers of help.
Hopefully this revised version, risen from the ashes, will continue to provide useful information to the membership, particularly those involved with Swan Class Sloops.
 
B.E.
5th March 2017

I have to now only focused on English shipbuilding late 16th century (for my Golden Hind).
Even the early 16th century building method looks to be different from this.
 
perhaps there is no general correct answer to this question.
 
What type of ship?
What time period?
which nation?
Maybe even on which shipyard the ship is build?
 
Each time period and country apparently had its own rules and habits.

Look at page 25 of this pdf 
http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Full thesis bates.pdf
 
and :
 

Indeed, one cannot generalise (easily) from individual ships. However, our physical evidence across the centuries is rather limited, we have to use what we have. Comparing 16th century and early 19th century practices may also be problematic. Production techniques for planks were different, as was timber availability.
 
I didn't read up on CHEERFUL, but where did Chuck get this 'real' planking expansion from ? I gather it is reconstructed ? From which sources ?

A quick look also answered a long standing question about Wales. The recovered and photographed hull sections show that the Wales were beveled so they could slide off of the wales of another ship, docking structure or whatever they might encounter. Shows me that instincts were right about the edge shape of these important hull protectors. Thanks for the link.
jud

Interesting reading, thanks for the link. This actually opens another front, namely whether we talk about shell-first or frames-first construction, or a hybrid of both. It seems that in fact the latter has been quite wide-spread in Northern European shipbuilding and the dhows of East Africa also belong into this category, as the first few planks are put into place before the inside timbers are errected. Shell-first construction would require horizontal scarfs with backing pieces in order to make a continuous plank. This would typically avoided, if at all possible, for garboard and floor-planks in smaller vessels.
 
However, we slowly deviate from the original question. This should actually be rephrased in the sense that planks were taken as long as available. If shorter ones had to be used, then in areas of the hull of less structural importance, i.e. in general higher up.

Look at page 25 of this pdf 
http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Full thesis bates.pdf
 
and :
 

Look at page 25 of this pdf 
http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Full thesis bates.pdf
 
and :
 

Look at page 25 of this pdf 
http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Full thesis bates.pdf
 
and :
 

Lorne,
 
I will never use them.
So you can have these parts.
 
Shipping costs will be your biggest expense
Send me a message where you live (or just which country you live).
Then I can see what the price will be.
You can then decide whether you still want them or not.
 
Groetjes
Greetings

What is an activity stream?   It is a fancy word for the custom search of the content on this site, which at the click of a link you can view precisely what you want.   Currently there are only the default streams set up.  You can view these by hovering over "Activity" in the menu as shown below.  Note the "MY ACTIVITY STREAMS"
 

 
 
 
Click on "MY ACTIVITY STREAMS" and you will see the default streams.  They are pretty good but I know you will want a more targeted stream of content you are interested in.  For example you can set up a custom stream that will show you only unread activity in build logs for three people you specifically want to check out regularly.  And you can filter other restrictions.   Just click on "Create new Stream as circled below.
 

 
You will get to a filter screen where you can name your new customized search....see below
 

 
Then select the other customized features you want.  Below you can see I selected individual forums and even made it specific to just two members.....and content that I havent read since my last visit.  You can set it up any way you want....
 

 
After you save your customized stream (lower right is saved button)  it will now appear in the drop down as shown below....this is the test stream I just set up.....
 

 
If you click on it....it will show you only what you asked it to show you.  See below for my custom activity stream.  There is no content because I made it very narrow with only two members as you see.  Read the description of my custom stream below the red circle.  Also note that the icons in the red circle let you select this as your default stream or you can edit it or delete it.   It will remember your selections and now all you have to do is click on it whenever you want to see this particular stuff.
 
Even more awesome is that you can set up as many custom activity streams that you want.........

 
 

Christian,
 
Maybe you can find here more information about "seats of ease"  
Lots of info and links .
 
Groetjes
Greetings

Christian,
 
Maybe you can find here more information about "seats of ease"  
Lots of info and links .
 
Groetjes
Greetings

So far for the good news show.
Here's a word of caution related to the position of the seats of ease in front of the gallion.
 
As the pics show and as consequence of a mistake of mine the, holes are covered.
So I filled them up, sanded with a high grid.
I'll see were to install on the gallion the seats of ease later on.
Sad but not critical.

In Dutch it is kraaienpoten.
But the purpose?
Who it knows can tell us.
 
Sjors
 
 

Hi Nils, Sjors & Patrick
Thanks for the nice comments & the likes.
 
Patrick : Please, take a look in Sjors' Agamemnon buildlog. You'll find them. In other logs too : Vanguard, Pegasus,...
Diana never had, so this detail is a bit fictitious, I'm afraid. Also the open bulwarks, I guess. 
But it's fun and those features were typical for ships from the second half of the XVIII century, so I still work within boundaries 
The funny thing is : I have no idea what purpose they had. Moreover, in French they are called "Pattes d'Oie", I think. So here's already another bird involved (Oie = Goose).  I wonder in Dutch...?
So if anyone has an some info regarding the use of those crowsfeet : feel free to drop a message
 
 

Hi Christian and Sjors,
 
The purpose of the Crowsfeet was to prevent the foot of the Topsail chafing on the rim of the top.
 
Dave 

Nice work Christian.
 
"Crowsfeet"  Never heard of it before
Again another word learned MSW 
 
groetjes
Greetings

Nice work Christian.
 
"Crowsfeet"  Never heard of it before
Again another word learned MSW 
 
groetjes
Greetings

First I decided not to issue this at all, but after having seen here elsewhere Chuck`s tutorial about casting the thin carvings out of PU, I decided to publish also my method to cast cannon barrels. I have used this method many times before when building my car & tank models, so I had a little experience about the chemicals and working methods also before starting to cast cannons.
 
The first thing was naturally to turn a pattern for the barrel in the lathe:
 

 
 
 
 
Next thing to do is to make a spruce, a channel through which the liquid resin is poured into the mold. For this a piece of 3 mm iron wire was used:
 

 
 
 
 
And then we can start making the mold. First a small box was made of 3 mm MDF. The pattern together with spruce was installed into one of the walls of this box, approximately at half height of the short wall. Then liquid silicone rubber was poured into the box so that the level is at the middle of the barrel. Sorry that there is no picture of this phase.
I was using Oomoo 25 silicone rubber, made by Smooth-On. It consists of two parts A and B, small amount of each is measured into a small container, mixed thoroughly and poured into the box. When cured, releasing agent was applied to the lower part of the mold and new batch of silicone rubber was made and poured to the box and let cure.
 
This is how the first half of a mold looks like, when dismantled from the box. The pattern with spruce is still on its place:
 

 
 
 
 
And here you can see the both halves of the mold. A cone is provided at the top of mold where resin is poured. Small air venting channels are also cut at the top of the barrel to have air to escape when resin is poured into mold:
 

 
 
 
The mold is closed and polyurethane resin is prepared by using equal amounts of part A and B of the Smooth Cast 305 resin from the same manufacturer as the rubber. Parts are stirred very carefully and poured into the cone of the mold. It would have been possible at this phase to add some metal powder to the resin, to have the barrel really look like cast out of metal. I have however found out that if metal powder is added into the resin, it will become very stiff and doesn`t flow very easily into the spruce & fill the barrel cavern completely.
 

 
 
Resin has been poured and it can be seen that it has raised into the air venting channels too, which proves that the barrel cavern is filled as well:
 

 
 
After the resin has cured and mold opened, the spruce and barrel look like this:
 

 
 
Now it remains only to clean the barrel, drill holes for the axle pin, ignition powder and naturally for the cannonball, and glue a small glass pearl into the back of the barrel:
 

 
 
 
 
And finally paint the barrels. I wanted them to look like old patinated bronze, so I mixed Model Master gloss black enamel paint with AK Interactive`s old bronze metal color. Diluted them so that the paint could be airbrushed on the barrels. And finally, when dry the barrels were wiped lightly with a soft cloth to get the look of old patinated bronze:
 

Crowsfeet ? I love them
For the interested : the euphroe-blocks are made of styrene. Walnut was not an option
I fixed 2 small sheets of 0,5 mmm and one of 0.25 mm in the middle : thas was (more or less)  the suitable thickness.
A needle and a pin to obtain the best possible alignment to fore the 0.8 mm holes
The paint is from  the Acrylico Vallejo-brand and the 311 colortype is until now the closest to wood, at least in my opinion, some more filing before assembly and that was that.
Here's the pics (part I)