Baker

question :
 
When I look at my pictures and books. Then I have to provide 2 holes for the anchor cables. 
On most images the holes are quite large. And the round shape around it looks robust, sturdy 
 
my solution : (4 bolts will be added later) 
The view, as it is now, is not complete what I had in mind. I think I'm going to sand it a bit thinner
Hase someone a better idea, or leave it as it is, or make thinner.

 

The high open railing has also been lowered.
 
Before

 
after

 
 
Index see post 1

I think I'm ready with the treenails.
For the treenails in the upper wales, I looked at examples of replicas and in other building logs on MSW.
The planks between this wales are not ready yet.

The treenails are done on the planks and wales (About 1850).
The stern is next to do.  
Perhaps the hull will also be done under the waterline. Dont know yet.

 
My method for adding treenails close to each other.
Make treenails short, medium and long.

 
Dril holes and add glue

 
treenails are fixed with a small hammer (gotten in my childhood, and about 50 year old..)

 
Add small treenails

 
Add medium treenails

 
Add the long treenails

 
cut with pliers


 
after sanding
 
 
 
And, there is a new lamp on the ceiling in the hobby room.
A much better lighting from now on. If there is time available, the shipyard is also open in the winter.

 
 
 

Thanks Steven, Robin and GL
 
Robin,
 
I first made a test board / plank.
My treenails are actually 0.2mm too large in diameter (1mm while they should be 0.8mm). At the test, 1 mm looked good. And a 1mm drill is stronger and breaks less quickly.
Therefore, 1 mm treenails are used. 
I also discovered that the treenails are almost invisible under 2 layers of white paint (below the water line).
Perhaps I also provide treenails here , or maybe not. Applying about extra 1500 almost invisible tree nails ??? pfff...
 


 
 

Small update
 
The treenailing "adventure" continues.


I also discovered that the wales were not blackened in the time prtiod that this ship was sailing.
The whole idea of painting the wales black was partly based on a translation error from me ( my knowledge of the English language is apparently less than I thought).
I also found, somewhere on this forum, a topic that confirmed this.
 
On one side, most of the black is already removed. Treenails and bolts need to be added to the wales.

" boring" : Has indeed complete different meanings in Dutch and English. 
 
"Boren" in Dutch : Drilling a hole in something
Example : Drill a hole in a plank or a wall, drilling a tunnel
  
"Boring" in Dutch : There is already a hole in something.
Example : The diameter of a cylinder in an internal combustion engine
 
"Boring" from English to Dutch = vervelend, saai
Like : annoying, something you have to do but do not like doing it. Help the admiral with the dishes (therefore she has a dishwasher )
 

I started with the tree nails in the hull planks.
 
The idea is to follow the line of the futtocks (frames) as much as possible.
The holes of the treenails were apparently not always neatly drilled on a straight line.

 
Because this is not going to look nice on the model, I will not follow this completely.
The holes will be drilled as far as possible in a straight line.
But now and then a hole will be drilled out of the center line…
 
The first treenails

 
"Finished" treenails

 
I find this a boring job. So, we do this work occasionally between the military models production.
About 600 holes drilled.

 
To be continued (slowly)
 

On the poop there are no planks on the hull. Only the frames are visible.
It seems that this was a widely used way.
 
Determining the height of the frames. And finishing.

 
I already had a suspicion that the planking on  stern came too high.
So, I partly removed the planking.

 
The wales on the stern are at the same height as on the hull.
As seen on some images of that time.

 
So no big  images on the stern. There is no room for this. And they are rarely seen on ships from this period.
probably just a picture of a pelican or a hind.
 

The way of building this hull was not always according to the rules of modeling a wooden ship (due to lack of experience )
The balcony (still to be built)  and the stern can both be wrong and are open for discussion.
But there are sudies who say that even some merchant ships had a cabin for the captain under the poopdeck.
And in the second half of the 16th century the balcony on the stern began to appear.
So why not add them to this model.
 
 
After about 1 year my first goal has been achieved. Build a hull that looks, for me, as good as possible.
 
Construction is now on a lower priority. In autumn and winter, small models of military modeling are my number 1
For the Golden Hind I have to do first further research about decks, armour….
The  hull still needs more sanding. And I have to do some testing on scrapwood with treenails, painting etc. Before starting with this on the model.
 
Future updates will therefore be small and it may take a while before they arive.
 
Index in post 1
 

Rear castle  same method
The frames are sawn at the correct height.

 
And made equal.
 
 
Finishing side and Finishing top

planking continues
 
planking of the forecastle.
I found 3 different ways to do this. Which is right ?? Who knows.
 
That's why I've searched which method was most likely used.
Method 1 seems to be most English but apparently came into use later.
Method 2 is the most common in this period.
Method 3 is the least common in this period
So method 2 will be used.

 
The frames are sawn at the correct height.

 
And made equal.

 
Saw planking of the front castle

 
Finishing side

 
 
Finishing top

At sea early 20 century.
Not one of my best, but a nice way to pass the afternoon.
W/C 15" X 11"
Jim

The sea and the firing guns with the smoke are beautifully done (The ship also of course).
Great work Piet, very realistic. 
Respect 

The sea and the firing guns with the smoke are beautifully done (The ship also of course).
Great work Piet, very realistic. 
Respect 

The sea and the firing guns with the smoke are beautifully done (The ship also of course).
Great work Piet, very realistic. 
Respect 

The sea and the firing guns with the smoke are beautifully done (The ship also of course).
Great work Piet, very realistic. 
Respect 

Using a simple jig - a straight edge and a bit of cardboard with an angled side - to mark out the angle for the oars on the lower oar frame, as it's difficult otherwise to get them parallel. The upper bank will be at the same angle, which corresponds to the end of the stroke where the oar handle is pulled right into the chest. (This is to make the upper guys easier to cast).
 

 
Steven

The sea and the firing guns with the smoke are beautifully done (The ship also of course).
Great work Piet, very realistic. 
Respect 

The sea and the firing guns with the smoke are beautifully done (The ship also of course).
Great work Piet, very realistic. 
Respect 

The sea and the firing guns with the smoke are beautifully done (The ship also of course).
Great work Piet, very realistic. 
Respect 

Hi Piet
 
I’m catching up...again.  Boy. Oh boy, what a top job you’ve done.  I’ve read everyone’s suggestions, hints and tips with much interest; hoping that one day I could emulate what you’ve done.
 
Having said that, I’m just reflecting on the original reason for doing the model, which was to honour and memorialise your father’s memory.  Without a doubt, Piet, you’ve done him real proud!
 
Congratulations, Piet.  She’s a beautiful ship.
 
Cheers. 
 
Patrick
 
 

WOW ! I'm with the others Piet, you really nailed it!  Great looking model/diorama.  Even my wife loves it.

Piet, your work is stunning. A very fitting memorial to your father, his ship and the gallant crew. A double thumbs up!

You got it enough said

I don't even know what to say, WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Jesse