reklein

many thanks Denis and Albert for your
nice comments, much appreciated,
 
Update...
 
although there has been much work on the frame and stanchions for the boats deck with all that soldering job, there is not so much to be seen in the progress. All the davit bearings are on. The boatsdeck and the stairways will have to be done now.....
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Hi!
 
Discovered this forum again (have been always registered here, but forgotten this) during my research to find out how to construct some details of the HMS Sophie. My problem is that there is just one commonly known existing plan of Jack Aubrey's HMS Sophie (former Spanish brig Vencejo) and the plan is not very good in every aspect.
 
At the moment I am having trouble with the Brodie Stove (found no possible information how it could look like and where it was installed on the HMS Sophie). I took the Brodie Stove from the Spanish Frigate Santa Leocadia
 
The second and more problematic issue is the question how could be the beams over the battery deck arranged? I found no similar ship to take a closer look on the construction.
 
The ship was built initially by me for a 3D-Animation, but now it serves as the main character for my web comic project. This is the reason why I need a highly detailed battery deck. For the 3D-Animation this deck should not been shown to closely.
 
Greetings
 
Ivi

Very nice  to hear from you Nils and jhearl. After experimenting with several products, I
went with Gallery Glass. It's a viscous white liquid that looks like Elmer's glue. Wiped a
thin film across the back of the porthole and let it dry till it was crystal clear. Then installed
each one with a tiny drop of Canopy Glue for adhesive. Had to see it in the photo but it's
there. You can see a slight reflection in the first porthole.
 
John

Well time for another update. I continued the work on the parts on the orlop deck. Some deckbeams have been fitted permanently and I will continue to do this as I finish hatches and gratings etc..
The positions of the 2 front masts have been fixed now and the "vissingen"  have been glued in place.
From there on I will continue building all the parts on that deck and also start the deckplanking, using 2mm thick oak 9-10mm width.
 

 

 

 

 

 
very satisfied with the main knight!
 

 
I was not satisfied with the first try of a stair. The steps protruded at the front.
And the sidebeams were too thick. I adapted the mould and thickness and now I think they look good.
 

 

 

Additional images of this ship, same status as yesterday . .  
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Thursday, August 11, 2016  
Here follow images of the model almost finished, only the plexiglas cover and the oars cradles on the basement are missing.  
Rgds, Jack.
 
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Good days. This model, I started it constructing in the year 2011. This one is the current aspect

Ok ... Call me Steve.
 
Here is a pic of what I was trying to describe for "Ghost sails". Just the sail outline in white thread.

 
I built a quick mock-up today to test the idea. I think with a bit more refinement, I may have an acceptable alternative to the outline method.

 
In my original post I was wondering if anyone else had tried this approach, and problems and solutions.
 
Comments welcome.

Hello all,
I made some progress on Santisima Trinidad. First of all I need to thank to Pablo from Spain (in this forum known as Anaga) who is my consultant during designing of the kit and who give me a lot of important information about the Santisima Trinidad. After consultation with Pablo I decide that the kit will offer two options for building the stern gallery-one is shown in the photo of prototype model and one is shown in render from 3D CAD.
The kit will contain gun carriage and full gun barrels in all four gun decks (36pdr guns are shown in the photos).
Best regards
Daniel

Greetings fellow Shipmates,
 
This is my third kit; I have only finished one so far so it is fair to say I am a novice. I struggled as to whether I would start a build log for this nice little ship because the log that jack.aubrey has set up for this kit is exquisite - I also thought that all of my questions would be answered. However, I have learned some things that others might find useful after my stumblings.
 
I won't do the kit contents review because jack has already covered that. I will bring you up to date with where I am at this point and leave a few learnings for others that may follow.
 
The first thing I will say is that I feel Jack was right to take the approach he did with creating a build board and frame squaring device and carefully fitting and gluing all of the frames ahead of fitting the deck. The instructions suggest fitting the keel, frames and deck and then gluing. I do not understand how you could get the precise fitting that is required for this kit by taking this approach. I copied jack's approach with some modifications. After I squared and glued all frames I fitted and glued in the deck. If I were to do it again I don't think I would have installed the deck at this stage but I was after a rigid framework. Probably not a big deal.
 
I spent quite a bit of time measuring up the ship dimensions from the plans. From that you will notice that the bow is 5 mm higher than the stern and that is why it is critically important to mark all of the planks before they are removed with the correct orientation (marked with an arrow on the boards). also be careful to note which is the bow and which is the stern - it is not so obvious as you may think.
 
It is also very important to add tick marks to the stem and stern post to guide the planks.
 
You need to decide how to end the planks at the bow and stern. I cut a rabet and ended the planks so that they were flush and not clinker for the last centimeter or so. I paid for that approach by not realizing that this would cause the bow and stern planks to creep up higher than planned and screw-up the fit of the otherwise perfectly pre-spiled planks. I figured this out after I half completed the planking and compensated by tapering the ends beyond what one would otherwise have to do. If I had taken my own advice I would have figured this out right away by watching the tick marks. In any case more guidance for this aspect would be very welcome. 
 
I did not do a proper job of each of the things I mentioned above and I paid for it. I have no reason to think that this kit is not produced with a very high level of precision and that if you pay close attention to squaring and getting the dimensions right, everything will fit like a glove.
 
I have not shown these screw-ups as prominently as I could so if anyone wants the dirty detailed pictures just let me know.
 
Now that much of the hull is planked I am really seeing the beauty of this ship.
 
Thank you for looking in - I would appreciate any and all comments.
 
Thanks, Ian
 
Modified frame squarer (after jack):


 
Frames assembled and glued:

 
Rabets and limited plank ticks (should have used these everywhere):



 
The rest:








 

It's with a little trepidation that I start my first build log on MSW. The Roter Lowe is my third plank-on-bulkhead build, the first being Constructo's Enterprise, followed up by AL's Renard. It's by far the most complex build I've undertaken, and my first with multiple gun decks and decorative woodwork. In this kit, the decorations are a mix of inlaid wood and printed cardboard. Not sure how I feel about the cardboard, yet. The materials look nice and the instructions come on five dual-sided sheets of plans.
I'm a bit concerned because the guns on the enclosed gun deck are to be mounted on carriages - I worry about them coming loose during the build and rattling around in the hull. I have to figure out some way to address that.
I picked up the kit a couple of years ago when Model Expo was having a moving sale. 
I'm a very slow builder, with lots of starts and stops, so be warned.
All that being said, let's post some pictures.

Many thanks to Oystein, Kees, Piet and B.E.
 
for all your comments and compliments......
 
Oystein,
for bending I hold the profile with a firm grip in the plyers and then gently bend only tiny angles, step by step every 10 mm. When narrower bendings are to be done, the profile is anealed and quenched down quickly, in order to make it softer.
 
Keees,
I liked that arrangement of the actual ship, and did my best to reflect a bit of it with this model....
 
Piet,
I have the same attitude in thinking, when I see technical solutions (in model), sometimes it can be seen how it was done, by careful studying the objects...
 
B.E.,
I always wonder how the professional builders manage to get those awsome tiny details done, (museum models) the clean and well painted surfaces, and no signs of anybody hushing something together. I would like to look over the shoulder of a professional builder. I presume they work with very skilled people and probably unlimited resources for toolpark and appropriate equipment
 
Nils

1/72 Rareplanes vac form airliner

Its so hard to explain in writing.  When I was in art school,  there was a whole semester class on how to use a paint brush effectively and what shaped brush to use.  Its counter to what most would think as well.  I have a 1/2 hour tech session on describing the techniques developed because its something you must see to really get.  Even better still,  it is best to hand out brushes to those watching and have them try it as you go.  Surprisingly there is a lot to point out even though you wouldnt expect that to be the case.
 
This class at Parsons was about color theory but also about brush handling.  We had to draw small square swatches, 1" x 1" and paint them to create our own swatch book of color theory.   The color theory aside,  the teacher was vigilant in demanding these swatches be painted by hand with a brush and you stay in the lines.  That each swatch be perfectly flat with not a trace of brush strokes.  If there were any....you would get a really poor grade.  It wasnt until a decade after I took that class that I recognized how important it was for our hobby purposes.  
 
I will try and put together something with photos to describe the techniques.   Just for starters...I dont have any flat brushes in my shop at all.  They are worthless for painting smooth areas you dont want brush strokes to appear on.  I also have no small brushes in workshop at all.  I have only medium and large round brushes.   They are soft and medium soft.  More suited for water colors than for oils or acrylic.   This is because even though I am using acrylic paint, they are used more like water colors.  
 
To understand why,  the lightbulbs always go off when folks see me use a flat brush in the traditional way and I describe how it is wrong for our purposes and show what happens when you use them.  Everyone uses flat brushes....throw them away except for maybe using them as dust brushes.
 
Then I describe how to effectively use a round brush that most would think is way too large for our purposes.  But after showing how to paint in the right direction and pull the brush as I am cutting a straight line,  they are converted pretty quick into believers.  This usually starts with drawing a square box on a piece of soft basswood 1" x 1".  It is very possibly if not easier to paint this square swatch perfectly flat with no brush strokes evident afterwards.... and cut in the lines around the perimeter so you have a sharp clean box freehand with a round brush.  No taping or masking required.
 
But again.....better to see it than describe it.  And then there is the surface prep and crack filling before you even start painting.  AND...very important....PINKY's up.   How to use your pinky finger as a control.  Resting your pinky finger on the surface to steady your hand and gain lots of control. If by chance there is no good place to rest my pinky in a certain part of the model,  the painting clearly doesnt go as well.  Its very important to learn what to do with your hands and how to hold the brush.
 
I have showed quite a few people in my shop how to do this and maybe they are better with their words and can explain it better.  But I will attempt to take some pictures as I paint on some basswood.  A notoriously bad wood to paint and expect to get a good finish on.  If you are using better wood like box or in my case cherry its even more of a pleasure to do.
 
I used Galleria Windsor and Newton Brand acrylic paint from a tube.  BUT...the paint as of late is slipping in quality so I have switched to Grumbacher brand and like it very much.  But for some odd reason I decided to use the Windsor and Newton on this model.  The color is Crimson...straight from the tube.

Here's a couple showing vessels under "battle sails" with the corses and t'gallants in bunts and clews
 

 

thanks for visiting the log Ben, you`re very welcome,....,
 
and thanks for your kind words....
 
yes, I have been looking for the purpose of those winches on the boats deck, and agree they must have been multi-purpose auxiliary.. for boats lowering / Hoisting
I have in the meantime found a pic showing one of these winches on the boatsdeck of the 1899 launched "SS. Hamburg", after WW1 serving for the US as  "USS Powhatan"   Two drums of same diameter for winding fore- and aft pulleys of a lifeboat. (pic kindly borowed from the web)
 
Nils
 

 
 

Nils if you are going to resin cast you little lifeboats, don't be tempted to use the high speed setting kind. There are problems with the material setting too fast to allow air bubbles to escape. Use a slower setting resin. I discovered this while trying to make landing craft for a 1/192 Victory ship. The resin is a little expensive but when you need to make a quantity of things it works out pretty nice. Also you might want to check Shapeways for already printed 3D boats.    Bill in IdahoBeautiful work By The Way

Hi Mates,
 
A lateral update – my usual posts - ha ha..
 
So, I decided to add some detailing to the galleries. The Vasa (based the on super detailed 1/10th) is certainly hard to grasp from a Corel kit.
 
PS: just a thought – Who really knows if the Vasa was as colorful and as highly detailed (art work) as is represented on the museum’s beautiful model.
The actual resurrection galleries, as an example, are very plain by comparison to the model (they appear to be rebuilt as well). So it appears that the goal of many kit/scratch builders is to try to emulate the model’s look. I, then added some detail bits as well.
 
My completed galleries before added details
 

 
Used some extra painted wood bits from the just completed railings. Purchased a necklace, and used the bits for the bobbinets (glue added so that beads would not fall off string when cut)

 
Received from Corel two new weather deck cannon opening trim rings

 
Here are some finished up shots. 

 
Now on to some added detail work for the bowsprit framing.
 
 
This 1/10th pic makes me very insecure Hmmm

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Every time I see your model. I think  (In Dutch)  "jaa man, knap werk"
 
In English : waw, great job!!

Nils if you are going to resin cast you little lifeboats, don't be tempted to use the high speed setting kind. There are problems with the material setting too fast to allow air bubbles to escape. Use a slower setting resin. I discovered this while trying to make landing craft for a 1/192 Victory ship. The resin is a little expensive but when you need to make a quantity of things it works out pretty nice. Also you might want to check Shapeways for already printed 3D boats.    Bill in IdahoBeautiful work By The Way

Nils if you are going to resin cast you little lifeboats, don't be tempted to use the high speed setting kind. There are problems with the material setting too fast to allow air bubbles to escape. Use a slower setting resin. I discovered this while trying to make landing craft for a 1/192 Victory ship. The resin is a little expensive but when you need to make a quantity of things it works out pretty nice. Also you might want to check Shapeways for already printed 3D boats.    Bill in IdahoBeautiful work By The Way

: : : : : :  
A batch of images of the model installed in its case, with all the oars shown. The base of the case is almost completed, except for one thing which will be discussed later. Till now I'll focus on definitely fixing the pieces located on the deck and to finish the seats for the oarsmen.
 
With respect of the element mentioned above, I have found that if I don't find an elegant way to keep held the oars, they tend to move easily from their original place. So I'm thinking at a kind of guidance with joints where inserting the blades of the oars. Obviously it must be a minimal and simple structure, which must not attract the attention of a hypothetical observer, other the whole may be disturbed.
 
Finally I think one or more plates with the model name and more.
 
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