petervisser

And lastly:
 
As with other VM kits, this comes with an acrylic stand. This one is quite heavy too, with a gold/black nameplate.
 

 
 
 
Final hull pics:







 
 
And with that, I'm having a week or two abusing my PlayStation5 with Hogwarts Legacy and Call of Duty. Modern Warfare 2. 

Moving onto the forecastle...
 
The stove funnel is now fitted and the gratings installed either side of it.

 
 
 
The belfry is supplied as a 3d part. This is fitted with a gallows and the bell/bellcrank.


 
 
 
We have a couple of 12-pounders up front, and these are now built up and fitted, along with the rest of the carronades. The most forward ports are left unoccupied.



 
 
 
Now onto the hammock cranes and other ironwork on the gunwales.


 
 
 
Here you see the boat cradles in situ.

 
 
 
And here is an anchor, as if you needed to be told! 

Poop and quarterdeck:
 
First up are the flag lockers. The honeycomb core is made from photo etch, painted to resemble wood. This is enveloped in a pear case.
 


 
 
 
Next is the skylight. 


 
 
And then the bitts.

 
 
 
Moving onto the quarterdeck, I finally start to shed my shelf of all the parts I have, starting with this:

 
 
 
The capstan and stairway are now installed, followed by the hatchway doors which are posed open.


 
 
 
Bitts and gratings.

 
 
 
The carronades on the open decks are different to the others as they don't need to slide. These are now built and installed to the quarterdeck.



 
 
...followed by the ship's wheel....

 
 
 
...and the binnacle.

I've pinned all of the chainplates to the hull on the starboard side. I'm now moving to the portside chainplates.
Once they are completed I'll start on the billboards, chesstrees, fenders and boarding ladders. 
 

Just one pic until my last hull update. 
 
This one shows Indy with the channels/knees fitted and also the fenders and side steps. 
 
Ok, back to the cave...
 

Evening!
 
I thought this a good time to do an update as the stern is more or less complete. I've just got to add the stern gunport eyebolts and hinges, plus the lanterns which are now under paint.
 
First job here is to fit the glazing panels which come pre-cut. These just pop into place and the PE window frames are painted and pushed into the recesses. These push in snugly, and a little varnish was run around them to 'glue' them into place. Note that you can have any stern window (except the quarter-rears) positioned either open or closed. I opted to leave two windows open.

 
 
 
The columns are now singled out for some ochre paint and these are then glued between the windows. Minimal trimming is needed with these.


 
 
 
Instead of PE for the quarter shingles, a small sheet of pre-cut Laser-Board is included. these are longer than they need to be and are just trimmed and glued into place with a few dits of CA gel. These will then be painted in black to make them uniform (not seen here).


 
 
 
Again, instead of PE, the stern decor is laser-engraved into a sheet of PolyBak. These are finer than PE and have much nicer fidelity. All parts are carefully removed, attached to some de-tacked tape and then airbrushed in yellow ochre paint. Each part is then applied to the relevant engraved area on the ship's stern. For the ship name, a waterslide decal is included.


 
 
Until later!

I built the Billing version years ago, pre-laser. It turned into a very nice model and I can recommend it. You're right in that it has very nice lines, which is why I decided to build it. I opted to change the name of the model and named it after my wife whose first and middle name is Cheryl, Anne. She has been much more tolerant of my subsequent modeling purchases ever since...
 
Cheers,
 
Peter

Hi Mr Von regarding what to use to clean brass before you blacken, look on the back of bottle there it tells you what you can use either, degreaser or denatured alcohol.
 

 
I have had great success with Isopropyl Alcohol 99%, I put some in a small ice cream cup (you can use anything) just enough so that it covers what you are going to blacken.
 
 
I keep the parts in the alcohol for a couple of minutes, then take out and put them on a clean dry paper towel, (I use blue workshop paper towel) dry pieces then I put them on a piece of small hard plastic sheet. Using a cotton bud I dip that into the Casey Brass Black bottle and cover all piece I want to blacken. I leave this for 1 minute in the solution, from there I put them in a cup of water, again I leave around a minute.
Then they go back on the paper towel and I dry them off after this I use clean small cotton buds to polish each piece.
 

Doing it this way I have never had flaking, here are some samples.
 

 

 
Hope this helps.
 
Regards
Richard
 
 
 

Top 3 planks and bottom 2 on both sides.  Wood quality is 'ok.'  If I wasn't adding wood filler I would have replaced.
 
Now to take a break (while I still can get my hand inside) and get the lower tier gun ports marked and cut out, the bulwark supports in and the blocking for the masts / deck openings put in.
 

All of the initial prep and plan drawing has paid off.  Obviously some sanding in the future but the shape is coming in.
Mark

Front mast done. I have it rigged to it will be slinging a torpedo outboard starbord 

Rigging the single (small) cargo booms. 

Well, it's the end of the year, so here is the Fish as of the end of 2022. The mizzen is mounted, and the lower mast rigging (shrouds and forestay) are in place. I need to make two more gin blocks before fitting the topmast and topgallant shrouds and stays, but shouldn't take more than a week to get to the point where the standing rigging is done except for ratlines, at which point I'll start making the yards while getting them done.
 

 

 
Have a safe and happy New Year.
 
George K

Thanks for looking in, for a change i was building some 1/76 rail wagon kits, but added some cleats onto the after bulwarks and made a couple of more ventilators on the island. The instructions are very vague with this kit (the person who sold the kit actually copied the zvezda instructions- must have lost originals). I was going to do a little more but our fur lined psychopath pinched my chair!


Take care all
Keith

I LOVE this book too. I am using it to help me with the rigging of my Cutty Sark. It helps answer some questions I have while trying to decipher Campbell's drawings which are also very helpful. But sometimes there is just too much information on the drawing to see clearly how the running rigging "runs". All the best going forward with the strings and things!
Peter

There is also Cutty Sark by Noel C.L. Hackney - #3 in the Classic Ships, their history and how to rig them (series) 1974 Patrick Stephens, Cambridge (England) in association with Airfix Products Ltd., London   They come up from time to time through Amazon (although sometimes listed as unavailable ... until another comes up).
 
 One must can get past the "compressed" logic of the book's format (done to lower page count , thus printing cost) - as it was originally made to super-enhance rigging a CS plastic model originally released in 1:130 scale, and there are optional enhancement to various aspects of that version - and also the difference between 'harbor rigged' and rigged with sails.  Although there is a bit of back-and-forth to get the big picture, there is a vast amount of info on rigging the CS (darn near every line you can imagine, how to route it and where to belay it) - a lot of which may be applicable to other clippers of that era.

I LOVE this book too. I am using it to help me with the rigging of my Cutty Sark. It helps answer some questions I have while trying to decipher Campbell's drawings which are also very helpful. But sometimes there is just too much information on the drawing to see clearly how the running rigging "runs". All the best going forward with the strings and things!
Peter

Thanks Peter, hope you start a build log for NL your work on Cutty Sark is excellent.
 

Hi Ed,
What a great buld log so far! You're certainly getting me excited about starting my own NL. However there's this pesky Cutty Sark on the bench that requires finishing. Thanks for posting your build log. Hope the recovery continues as planned!
Cheers,
Peter

Superb looking model thus far Chris. And yes your ship's boat turned out very well too!
 
All the best with the rest of your build.
 
Peter

I still work with breaks. Other Small Staghorn harnesses..


More work on the largest triangular Deadeyes. Homemade production is literally done by hand..
 



I found new options for the MF 70 cutter..👌

side groove..


rounding of edges..

Test with 0.52 mm cable..

 

is that photo etch?.........looks really good as to how thin they are.   wish I had decorations like that for my Sergal Thermopylae.  they are so thick,  it's a b...... to bend them!  really compliments the model Peter!  

After a long hiatus from Cutty Sark, I have finally started on the masting and rigging. This is just a short update as to where I'm at with the project.
 
The first step in this long and involved process is to fabricate the parts that hold the masts together, they being the tops and cross-trees. My old kit had these pieces marked out on sheets of ply which had to be cut out with a scroll saw and fret saw. I cut the pieces out with the scroll saw and then filed and sanded out the pieces to size.
Due to the fact that the tops are less than detailed as marked out on the plywood, I opted to use them as templates. The templates were then used to trace the shapes on thinner sheets so that I could sandwich the gratings in between. I decided to use styrene for the grating as they are a uniform thickness and width and there is no sanding involved for such small and delicate strips. All will be painted white so there won't be an issue with the different materials.
Here are some pics of the initial construction.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the likes gentlemen. I forgot to post a few pic's of the boat conversions. I basically chopped of a portion of the stern to two of the Biliing F167 life boats and then glued on a transom converting a double ender to a squared transom boat. This to me was the easiest solution and now all the boats are to a more correct scale and configured correctly.
Here are some photos of the conversion...
 

Hi All. Well, it's been a while since any serious work has taken place on my model ship bench. I am happy to be back and have resumed work on my CS.
I have finally dealt with the boats that are aboard the Cutty Sark. Two lifeboats and the gig and jolly boat. The kit came with three plastic boats and I realize that they are a serious no-no to some builders. I am not one of those however, and with a coat or two of paint they look way better than anything I could cobble together.
The kit came with 3 boats all described as lifeboats. They were F167 (good) and F405 (not good) it being way to big for the scale of model. I decided to get two more of the F167's and modify them by altering their transoms. That would convert them into a jolly boat and a gig. I added some lifelines to the gunwales of the lifeboats to make them more authentic.
I lashed down the jolly boat and gig but have not done so yet for the lifeboats. They would be in the way when it comes time to set up the shrouds and the rest of the rigging going to the belaying pins. I'll have to tie them down after the rigging is complete.
So here are the results...
 

 

 

Well, the railings are completed. It was a bit of a slog. The first coat of primer took 2 hours to apply to all the railings. Phew. That was a bit much, my neck and back told me. Thereafter I painted them in sections as they still wanted two coats of white. But now they're finished and I am pleased woth the results. Modelling will now take a back seat for a few months as summer is arriving and the outdoors and the yard call for some attention instead. I hope to putter with the ships boats during rainy days, whenever they happen. Cheers guys!