RGL
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Everything posted by RGL
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The first primer coat is on. Some sins which I thought were going to stand out like sore thumbs haven’t. There are a few gaps to fill and a few rough bits that will need a bit of sanding but overall, it OK.
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So much brass. I’ve dry fitted the stacks, but I think I’ll glue them before a primer coat, there are so many little bits that keep falling off I’d father get that done first.
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I’ve never used anything, but for the big areas I’m going to use acetone to clean it up (fingerprints) and the deck has been popping up in places. I have to remind myself it’s static, no one will ever see it.
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So, the front part of the bridge is done. Lots more PE to plonk on top but as far as painting goes it’s ready for primer. I have to do the aft of this piece then I think I’m ready to prime.
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I’m at a bit of a loss as to what else to add to this as there is so much detail in the Pontos box but I’ll have a look.
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More PE at the front of the bus, some additional scratch building as well. Pontos lets you make up several variants, the platform in front of the bridge is apparently a CIWS platform but I’m yet to find a photo with one one it.
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Unless you can put the plastic together perfectly it usually needs some work. Tamiya fits perfectly, everyone else, not so. For example with the last photo, photoetch is designed to fit perfectly, so any error means it needs work, be it putty or just plain CA or shims. If you are going to use a file the piece must be glued down hard to save the metal piece coming off a little bit and bending. Mr Surfacer is good to paint on joins to see if you’ve got it right. What you can’t see in the photo you mention, I ran a bead of glue along the edge which is transparent but “should” look ok when painted.
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Helicopter deck and hangars. For some reason, as fantastically detailed as Pontos is they don’t consider lights (the 12 above the hangar doors) or the 5 tannoys.
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Moving along and commencing in the starboard side, I’m going to do the sides but not the decks prior to painting. I have added some extras such as speakers and lights which appear on the real ship. I also added some brass pipes which are etched in but not 3D. There are a LOT of fire hoses and life rings to add which I intend to paint on the frets and add after. There are are a few little gaps but there will be a lot of equipment in front of them and railings to go.
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Now the bottom of the hull is done, it’s back to brass. The decks are all beautiful scribed brass. They fit perfectly (if you have put the plastic together perfectly- otherwise one needs to do some trimming) but the difficulty of large bits of brass is getting them to sit flush. This is s a major part of the build as everything else will sit on this. I will have to clean up the brass with acetone prior to painting
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Now, three layers of grunge, diluted grey, black and green, run in the gaps of the ribs. When the hull is fully painted I’ll add some salt. Internet photos of the DDG’s in this class either have them completely grey with biomass or sparkling clean on the slipways. I just wanted a little bit to dull down the oilcanning. I think it’s probably proportional to the amount of rust I’ll put topside. Airbrush away now and back back to building.
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Welcome Tim! One more diluted red coat, the boot strap added, the protective black layer of paint on the sonar done. Then a Satin coat. When that sets I can start some Grunge.
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About 4 thin coats later, it has dulled down the ribs a bit. I’ll probably give it one last overspray with a lighter red then give it a varnish coat before I go back to bending PE. It looks stark but it will be less noticeable when the other colours are added.
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Next step, a brighter red for the ribs to make up the hatch pattern, about 2.5 hours work. Next will be some diluted overspray with a brighter red.
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Oil canning started on the lower hull. The instructions say that the lower hull should be Coca Brown but I think I’ll just use that as the base undercoat. As you can see from the real think it is a lot brighter. About a day’s work to do up the black lines then filling in the spaces.
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The real deal has weld lines all down the hull and visible panels. I’ve scribed in the weld lines and will pre shade for oil canning . There are a plethora of bilge holes which I have drilled in based on photos of the ship. I can now paint below the waterline and see if the primer stays on this time.
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Pain stripped back again, attempt 3. Tamiya rattle can hopefully provides a more stable base for the oilcanning.
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It’s the U Star UA-90190. It takes a while to get used to the handling as they are not tweezers
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So work and sports commitments have had me away for awhile. It took Australia Post 2 weeks to deliver a parcel containing a new bottle of AK primer from Victoria to Canberra which closed down the painting booth anyways. Yesterday and and today I completed the second smokestack. A few few things about tools, the little set of pliers is probably the Best Buy I’ve done in years, it stops PE getting flung around the room. It holds pieces steady whilst glueing. I wish I bought one years ago. Secondly the $20 light from Ikea is the best light source I’ve found.
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So, I’m telling Banyan yesterday how I hate Vajello paints. My AK grey primer has gone off (clogs the airbrush immediately) so I use Vajello primer. Let it sit for over 12 hours. Do some very light masking to get ready for pre shading and the stuff comes off like sim after a bad sunburn. Re strip, Re sand and Re order some more AK primer. I’ll probably just use Tamiya rattle can for the lower hull but I’ll never ever use any Vajello again. I have never used their grey primer before and never will again.
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