Tigersteve

A clean sharp looking project. I like it.
 
Jim

Nice work Steve.  Very realistic looking.

Leathering is completed and one coat of Wipe-On-Poly (second photo). I suppose I will need to eliminate one for the presentation. 
Steve

Finishing the paint job on the buckets took a while. White and green paint were mixed in different ratios to get the desired hue. The final coat was the lightest version of this mixture, followed by a damp brush while the paint was still wet. This removed most of the last coat to create the texture. 
 
Holes were drilled in the buckets and the thwarts were permanently installed. Next, I will work on the oars. 
Steve

Using the techniques described in the manual, I tapered and shaped the oars. To get a consistent tapering across all oars, I used the technique shown in the first photo where I sanded towards the blade. 
 
The oars were treated with several coats of natural stain followed by two coats of golden oak, which were wiped off after about a minute of saturation. Leathering is next. 
Steve

Flush with hull now....

Thanks Steve! 🙂 

Looks very neat. I like it!
Steve

Using the techniques described in the manual, I tapered and shaped the oars. To get a consistent tapering across all oars, I used the technique shown in the first photo where I sanded towards the blade. 
 
The oars were treated with several coats of natural stain followed by two coats of golden oak, which were wiped off after about a minute of saturation. Leathering is next. 
Steve

Using the techniques described in the manual, I tapered and shaped the oars. To get a consistent tapering across all oars, I used the technique shown in the first photo where I sanded towards the blade. 
 
The oars were treated with several coats of natural stain followed by two coats of golden oak, which were wiped off after about a minute of saturation. Leathering is next. 
Steve

Hi 🙂

When I attempted to install the bilge pumps I discovered that the “thick pad” at the main mast was in fact too thick.  There is supposed to be a thick pad in the laser cut parts but i never found it and scratch built one. I initially cut it short and patched it.  I was never happy with the patch.  ☹️  Well, now i had a good excuse to redo it.  It meant taking out the fife rail, but i wasn't happy with that either. The stanchions were crooked.  So 2 steps forward and 6 steps back.   

Finally i moved on after some time. Here IS the progress. Few Minor discrepancies from original to more heqdache to nitpickers :)) , Columns, but what i have ať home. Its easiest thing to swap any year....
But to ease their minds -  :))) At least fancyrail IS solid All throughout now :)) . IT was pain to do....
Making nameboards myself now, so no laser on those. 
Now to make catheads and She IS ready to take a coat..thank you for watching... V. 
 
 

Top sail secured. Looks messy , but the bunts will all go to their homes.

1. The barrels should be aligned in the carriages.
2. The sides of the deck fittings like the coamings should be parallel to the centerline of the deck.
 
My method relies on those things being correct. In the example above I am using the sides of the coaming as the template for the whole process. The rear trucks against the adjustable parallel insures that the carriage is always perpendicular to the centerline of the deck. Doing this insures that the barrels will be in alignment. Hope that makes sense.

As promised here is how I go about pinning the guns to the deck. In doing so I try to set most of the guns parallel to one another. In order to do that I use the edge of the deck fixtures as a starting point. First, let's see what the pinned carriage looks like.
 
I used a #77 drill to make a hole in the bottom of the rear trucks. Mine are done on the mill, but doing it by hand also works. After adhering a length of 28 gauge wire into each truck the wire is shortened to about 1/32". The two rear trucks were then glued to the axle while visually aligning the wires to each other.

 
The photo below is explained with steps 1-4.
1. This stick has cutouts that cover the ring bolts on the deck. This allows the stick to be pushed up against the edge of the coaming. The coaming is centered on the deck so I know that the stick is parallel to the centerline of the deck.
 
2. I made an adjustable parallel gauge on the Byrnes saw. The gauge sits between the rear trucks and the stick I mentioned in the previous step. By sliding the two halves of the adjustable parallel I can move the carriage as close to or as far away from the gun port as I want. The carriage remains perpendicular to the centerline of the deck as long as I keep the rear trucks against the edge of the adjustable parallel. Once the carriage is positioned I placed a few pieces of tape over the gauge to hold it in place.
 
3. I placed a stick against the truck as a stop in order to register the gun carriage fore and aft.
 
4. I put some masking tape on the deck where the pins would be located to protect the planking. I used a toothpick to add a dab of black paint to the bottom of each pin. The carriage was placed on the deck as shown in the photo below. Simply push down to transfer the paint to the tape.

 
The markings for the holes ready to be drilled. Use a #75 or #76 drill if you need some wiggle room.

 
Mike

Here are a couple of images of the gore lines and the transition from one group to another.  
 
There are three groups of plates on my Glory of the Seas

I finished planking up to the channel wales. After planking, I roughly sanded it. Here are a couple of pics:
 







Some of the sweep ports are not identical in size as the others, so I will fix that next before moving on to the planks above the channel wales.

No metal.  Metal photo-etch stoves do exist aftermarket from other folks but using wood is so much easier and is actually how most stoves on contemporary models were built.  


 
I will say this,  most cant believe its not metal when they see it in person.  Thats the beauty and wonder of model making.

Beautiful design and execution. 
Steve

Bulkhead stanchions.

Small glue soaked thread loop glued to the bulwark belying pin. I will thread the bunt and clew lines through these loops. If done right, I will create the illusion that the lines are on the pins. The loop will be coaxed under the pin rail a little more.

Keep going you’ll get the hang of it!  I use CA applied with a pointy toothpick.  Just a tiny dab at the location.  Dries clear.
 
Good luck with it….
 
 

Still working on my model🙂. All of my shrouds are up, but not the back stays yet. I am waiting on those to give me more room to reach in to belay the bunts on the pinrails. I am glueing the ratlines one by one to the shrouds. I have way to much glue on them, giving them the look of icicles, that real ship crews delt with.