aliluke

Hi Jesse

Have a look at Flyer's log for Pegasus, B.E's log for Pegasus and my Fly log. "Ferrule crimps" from an electrical store make good scuppers. They are certainly correct for Pegasus or Fly and I think they'd easily adapt as an intuitive and good detail add to the Scottish Maid. I'd go with intuition for this and scale/place according to your eye.

Hi Brett

I remember a member of the LSS forum making this mistake with the rise of the wale. Sadly I think he gave up altogether. I'm glad you have found a fix which makes sense to me. The laying of the wales and fashion pieces is photographed in my log. It was all by the way of the practicum and worked. Stick at it I'd say - once the key parts are aligned it becomes much easier and a lot more fun.

Hi Ron

I certainly wasn't asking you "why?". I was implying that some people here push others to carry on and ask for updates when the builder has their own personal reasons for not wanting to, or being unable to, or being in a "I don't know" state to carry on for the time being. Whenever you are back at it is when you are back at it and I'll never push you, or anyone else here, for an explanation. It is each to his own. That is what I was trying to say.

My own lull is due to going around in circles trying to fix tiny issues and not being able to get on with the big bits that progress the model. Like a writers cramp - trying to fix the last chapter and instead making it worse when I should be starting the next. If you know what I mean...Anyway whenever you are back at it I'm sure there are many here - me included - who will relish it.

Best regards

Superb Jesse. The third photo is just great. Crisp, clean and wonderful lines.

When you clean that stern up and trim it off I'm sure it'll all be fine. It and the fashion pieces and the wales are all key relationships which I think the practicum covers really well.

I do think an issue is that there is too much information out there for this ship! I advise ignoring everything excepting for the practicum. Throw away the kit instructions (not the drawings). Use logs like my brief one, or Ken's, or Ryland's to give you indications of outcomes rather than direct instructions. The trick is that there are so many contradictions and I found the practicum's pathway made a great result even though it contradicted almost all other instructions. Don't tie yourself in knots - have fun!

Thanks Gregor

You have tempted me to look back in your log and I realise you have done very good and thorough research. The links are great. I'm eyeing up my next model and a cutter of some form is very high on the list.

I look forward to your foray into masts and rigging.

Great work Ken. The scroll has just the right fineness. I like that you are using technology to achieve this. Worth more than a "Like This" but I've added that as well. Have happy holidays.

Hi Rusty

Wow this is nice! For a journey into scratch this or Chuck's Cheerful is my choice (I have plenty to do while I wait). Great build and a stunning ship.

Hi Gregor

I like the idea of a towed boat as part of the display but concede that Kester's (now spelled correctly!) explanation makes sense too.

Some other questions...Gun port lids on an open deck - the AOTS of Alert doesn't show this and I haven't seen a Sherbourne with such. Is this to prevent excessive ingress of sea water while underway based on a lowish freeboard? Did you base the choice to add these on contemporary model? Just intrigued but must say they look good.

For your boat you mention "computer tape" to form clinkered planking. What is computer tape? I Googled but still couldn't find such a thing. It sounds like a great material.

Thanks

All looks better than just fine to me Bob. The copper looks great - hope it holds. The deck fittings look great too, as does the hull. A fantastic model, sharp and crisp - relax on your break and feel good!

Ron

I just use the Dullcote and nothing else - seems to work fine.

Hi Ron

So easy to miss posts here they fly off the page. That planking looks great.

I swear by Testors Dullcote as a brush on finish. You can polish it up or leave it dead flat. Goes on really easy and settles evenly.

Anyway nice work there - a difficult hull is conquered!

Hi Gregor

Never did find your log before your recent PM. Fantastic work in all respects - the cannons really stand out as brilliant little models in their own right. I can't answer your questions. But ...I do wonder how a boat centred under a boom can be launched? I wondered this about Kestor's (Stockholm Tar) build as well. Wouldn't the boat be mounted away from, to the side of the boom? Kestor's Sherbourne - one of the finest examples that there is - always bugged me with this question.

Any way - your work is superb and I really like these ships. My boat question is as much to spark a conversation as it is to acknowledge what a great job you are doing!

Frank

Completely agree with Tony. The AOTS of Alert is very nice book to have. Not for the same ship but one which will give you lots of details. I'm pretty sure a cutter of some sort or another will be my next build. - Krick's Alert is very tempting  but that is a long way off...I look forward to your progress.

I look forward to your updates Ron. We all go through the lulls and being asked "why?" is never a very useful question...

Yes Frank, that is the one. Pretty sure it is for a completely different ship than the Krick model. Sorry - but still a good book to own. I can only guess that Dirk might confirm this. His Krick Alert log should be good enough to get you somewhere near his skills! Given yours that isn't a big stretch.

I still could be wrong about this!!

Hi Frank

If it is the right book for the Krick Alert I'll be wrong. Please let me know if I am when you get it as I'd be tempted to get both, $60 is a bargain as this AOTS is rare . On my old computer someone sent me a PDF of it but the computer died and it went into the ether.

Hey Jesse

You are doing some great work here.

Pete Jaquith is back. His Newsboy,  that I referred you to, has a post. I think it is in General Nautical Discussions. His work is well worth looking at.

Hi Frank

Keen to see this unfold. Seriously on my list and I like the idea of the large scale. I think you might be mistaken about the Goodwin book though. That is for an English cutter - like Sherbourne etc and Krick's Alert is an American revenue cutter - a completely different thing. I could be wrong!! I'm quite keen to get Goodwin's AOTS where did you find it?

Hi Bob

I'm slightly nervous about you going down my route. Would hate it to turn into another coppering nightmare for you. It certainly has it is oddities. Some parts of the plates just will not age at all in spite of being treated exactly the same as those along side them. The starboard side of my rudder remains stubbornly bright. Definitely an uneven finish but I guess that gives it the right look. I should be finished it tomorrow morning and will post profiles when it is done.

Just caught up with your log Eamonn. Links are a wonderful thing. Great work on your build  and Nigel is steering you very well. I will be a watcher from now on and if I can advise I will. A fine ship it is that you are making.

Bob

I agree with Arthur. The running end is taken under the coil and then appears to the outside of the coil. That is why it has a left and right hand set. My method still stands but there are many that you can try. I concede that I've only done this for 8 cannons and many are much more experienced than I. Your Vanguard is a beauty btw.

Hi Bob

I think your coil is too tight. You need to think about how much rope would actually be needed = very little and you should make the middle of the coil more open. I use double-sided tape. Stick it down to a flat surface e.g scrap plywood. Start the coil with an instrument that gives you the right internal diameter for the coil - a piece of dowel or a round ended tool and wrap the rope round that while keeping it stuck down to the tape. I think four or five turns are more than enough. When finished paint with diluted PVA or even CA glue. When dry gently scrape it off the tape, flip it over and the coil is done. My AVS log shows a result that I like. I used CA glue. The coil once it is flipped over doesn't show any glue at all. The coils will have a left or right hand set. You can make many at random and work out the set later. With CA glue each coil takes a matter of minutes to make.

Hope that helps.

A great subject this model -really unique.Are those angled planks at the bow how it was done? Intrigued and keen to keep up with your model!!

Hi Ollie

Looking good. I reckon you are a customer for zu Mondfeld's "Historic Ship Models". It is the bible which will answer so many of your questions.

The eyebolts look great but, in my opinion, both your eyebolts and ringbolts need to be smaller. I gave up trying to make my own at the tiny scale needed and just bought them from Model Expo. As far as I can tell they make the tiniest eyebolts that you can buy. Caldercraft do a similar size but they are photo etched so lack the roundedness. I bought several hundred eyebolts from ME. Have a look at my cannon in my Fly log - the eyebolts and ringbolts are very, very small.

Still trying to figure out what ship/boat is in the background. Got me stumped!