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The pantry is located on the lower deck in front of the ladderway.  It is constructed with partially louvered walls like the sail room.  In contrast to the sail room, there is a standard swinging door rather than a slider.  I finally tried to cut the slat mortises on the table saw.  I had to free-hand their locations as I could not quickly develop a jig.  A piece of 1 x 1 mm brass clamped down to the saw table would have done the trick but I did not have any and when I tried to cut wood this dimension it disintigrated.  I think they came out reasonably well.  Next time I would run out to the model railroad store a few towns away and buy the brass square as the mortises look better even though once the slats are inserted there is really no difference in appearance. 
 
The plan shows the door underneath the beam (not installed on these pictures).  I found this odd because this would limit the door height and also because a support stanchion could be incorporated into the door frame if the door was located between frames.  I built the door in the location shown on the plan.  I also decided not to put a pillar under beam 13 as this would end up in the middle of the pantry and restrict the storage possibilities.  A stanchion on the starboard wall will be the substitute for the pillar.
 

 

 

 

John and Elia, thank you for your kind comments.  Thanks for all the Likes as well.  A little more has been accomplished this weekend.  I have applied the finish to the pantry.  Beam set 14 has been installed and beam set 15 is in progess.  The middle carlings are larger to support the capstain partner.  Unlike the carlings for the mast partners, this piece is installed like a regular carling (ie from on top) rather than under the beam.
 
 

 
 

Hi all, and thanks for the comments and likes.
 
The next set of independent pieces to be made were the three hatches with gratings.  One two-part one goes on the quarterdeck, while the other two go on the gun deck under the boat in the waist.  My method for making gratings is a bit unusual in that it there is little or no measuring done with a ruler or calipers.  Everything is done relative to the thickness of the saw blade that is used.  I developed this method because I only have a Preac saw.  A milling machine might make the whole process easier, but I work with what I have.
 
The first thing is to set up the saw to make square section sticks of wood whose dimension will be about 2  inches in the scale being used.  This then has to  match the thickness of a saw blade that you have.  For the small grating I used a slitting saw blade that was 0.032” thick. 
 
To set the saw I sandwiched that blade between a second blade and the rip fence.  The fence is snugged up and locked down.  The cutting blade does not have to be the same thickness, although in this case it was since I have two blades of that same thickness.
 
[These first nine photos are in black and white because they are taken from another presentation on making much smaller gratings].
 

 
Several sticks 0.032” square were cut from a sheet of hardwood.  Only a few are needed.  Then the blade that matches the sticks is mounted in the saw, if it is not already there.   Two of the sticks are sandwiched between the blade and the fence which is snugged tight and locked down.
 

 
One stick is removed and a short section of the other is held firmly against the fence and tacked in place with extra thin cyano.  Care is taken to see that the fence is not glued to the table.
 

 
The fence is removed, leaving a guide strip parallel to the blade and one blade thickness to the right. 
 

 
A rectangular piece of hardwood sheet is selected and held against the guide strip and the miter guage.  The blade height is set up to cut just a tiny bit deeper than halfway through the sheet.
 

 
The wood is run over the blade, cutting a channel one blade thickness from the end.
 

 
The wood is flipped over and the slot that was just cut is placed on top of the guide strip. 
 

 
The wood is run through again, cutting a second channel two thicknesses to the left of the first channel.
 

 
The balance of the sheet is cut in the same way, making a series of channels parallel to each other and spaced two blade widths apart.
 

 
Here is the grating sheet for the QAR. At my scale I needed sticks and channels that were about 0.055”.  I took one of the 0.032” blades and stacked it together with a 0.023” blade, making a 0.055” dado blade.
 

 
Actually, for the small grating I used Portia Takakjian’s technique.  This involves cutting lots of square sticks as well as cutting cross channels across the first ones.  The cross channels are filled with the sticks and everything is glued together.  When dry the solid back of the sheet is ground off with a sanding drum.  This works well for a small grating, but the wider blade did not cut as cleanly so I kept getting tearout.  Also, I needed more than 25 square inches of grating and did not look forward to grinding off so much wood.
 
Instead, I removed the guide strip and set the saw to cut 0.55” using the blades as spacers again.  Strips were parted off the sheet until the material was used up.  I call them toothed strips for obvious reasons.
 

 
Three quarters of the toothed strips were cut into thirds and interlocked with the remaining long strips.
 

 
This created a grating sheet about 2 ½ by 7 ½ inches.  This was only enough to make the gratings for one of the models, so a second grating sheet was made in the same way.
 

 
From the sheets I cut out sections for the grating sizes that I needed, sanded the edges flush and gave them a coat of slightly darkened matte finish to protect them from glue stains when the coamings get built around them.
 

 
Overall, this method worked well for me, and I will try it in smaller scales in the future.  A tip of the hat to Charlie Files, inventor of the Preac, wherever you are.
 
I will have the log of making the coamings in a few days.  Until then, be well.
 
Dan
 
 

I graduated from the stern decoration. However, the Eagles did not put because had already broken. Sculptures of eagles really stick out beyond the outline of the stern ...

John and Elia, thank you for your kind comments.  Thanks for all the Likes as well.  A little more has been accomplished this weekend.  I have applied the finish to the pantry.  Beam set 14 has been installed and beam set 15 is in progess.  The middle carlings are larger to support the capstain partner.  Unlike the carlings for the mast partners, this piece is installed like a regular carling (ie from on top) rather than under the beam.
 
 

 
 

John and Elia, thank you for your kind comments.  Thanks for all the Likes as well.  A little more has been accomplished this weekend.  I have applied the finish to the pantry.  Beam set 14 has been installed and beam set 15 is in progess.  The middle carlings are larger to support the capstain partner.  Unlike the carlings for the mast partners, this piece is installed like a regular carling (ie from on top) rather than under the beam.
 
 

 
 

The pantry is located on the lower deck in front of the ladderway.  It is constructed with partially louvered walls like the sail room.  In contrast to the sail room, there is a standard swinging door rather than a slider.  I finally tried to cut the slat mortises on the table saw.  I had to free-hand their locations as I could not quickly develop a jig.  A piece of 1 x 1 mm brass clamped down to the saw table would have done the trick but I did not have any and when I tried to cut wood this dimension it disintigrated.  I think they came out reasonably well.  Next time I would run out to the model railroad store a few towns away and buy the brass square as the mortises look better even though once the slats are inserted there is really no difference in appearance. 
 
The plan shows the door underneath the beam (not installed on these pictures).  I found this odd because this would limit the door height and also because a support stanchion could be incorporated into the door frame if the door was located between frames.  I built the door in the location shown on the plan.  I also decided not to put a pillar under beam 13 as this would end up in the middle of the pantry and restrict the storage possibilities.  A stanchion on the starboard wall will be the substitute for the pillar.
 

 

 

 

The chocks were fitted next.  The edges were highlighted with pencil to make the seams stand out.
 

 

 
The assemblies were then glued in place.  The aft partner was glued using the log pumps to help alignment.  
 

 
After the glue was dry, I cut the mortises for the ledges between the partners carlings and the middle carlings.  Because of the locations of the pumps and the main topsail sheet bitts, only two ledges would fit.  The multiple bolts were added and a coat of finish was applied to seal the bolts in place.  I typically dry-fit the bolts, only using glue if the hole is too large.  The last photo shows how it will look with all six pumps in position.  
 

 

 
 
 
 

John and Elia, thank you for your kind comments.  Thanks for all the Likes as well.  A little more has been accomplished this weekend.  I have applied the finish to the pantry.  Beam set 14 has been installed and beam set 15 is in progess.  The middle carlings are larger to support the capstain partner.  Unlike the carlings for the mast partners, this piece is installed like a regular carling (ie from on top) rather than under the beam.
 
 

 
 

John and Elia, thank you for your kind comments.  Thanks for all the Likes as well.  A little more has been accomplished this weekend.  I have applied the finish to the pantry.  Beam set 14 has been installed and beam set 15 is in progess.  The middle carlings are larger to support the capstain partner.  Unlike the carlings for the mast partners, this piece is installed like a regular carling (ie from on top) rather than under the beam.
 
 

 
 

John and Elia, thank you for your kind comments.  Thanks for all the Likes as well.  A little more has been accomplished this weekend.  I have applied the finish to the pantry.  Beam set 14 has been installed and beam set 15 is in progess.  The middle carlings are larger to support the capstain partner.  Unlike the carlings for the mast partners, this piece is installed like a regular carling (ie from on top) rather than under the beam.
 
 

 
 

John and Elia, thank you for your kind comments.  Thanks for all the Likes as well.  A little more has been accomplished this weekend.  I have applied the finish to the pantry.  Beam set 14 has been installed and beam set 15 is in progess.  The middle carlings are larger to support the capstain partner.  Unlike the carlings for the mast partners, this piece is installed like a regular carling (ie from on top) rather than under the beam.
 
 

 
 

John and Elia, thank you for your kind comments.  Thanks for all the Likes as well.  A little more has been accomplished this weekend.  I have applied the finish to the pantry.  Beam set 14 has been installed and beam set 15 is in progess.  The middle carlings are larger to support the capstain partner.  Unlike the carlings for the mast partners, this piece is installed like a regular carling (ie from on top) rather than under the beam.
 
 

 
 

The pantry is located on the lower deck in front of the ladderway.  It is constructed with partially louvered walls like the sail room.  In contrast to the sail room, there is a standard swinging door rather than a slider.  I finally tried to cut the slat mortises on the table saw.  I had to free-hand their locations as I could not quickly develop a jig.  A piece of 1 x 1 mm brass clamped down to the saw table would have done the trick but I did not have any and when I tried to cut wood this dimension it disintigrated.  I think they came out reasonably well.  Next time I would run out to the model railroad store a few towns away and buy the brass square as the mortises look better even though once the slats are inserted there is really no difference in appearance. 
 
The plan shows the door underneath the beam (not installed on these pictures).  I found this odd because this would limit the door height and also because a support stanchion could be incorporated into the door frame if the door was located between frames.  I built the door in the location shown on the plan.  I also decided not to put a pillar under beam 13 as this would end up in the middle of the pantry and restrict the storage possibilities.  A stanchion on the starboard wall will be the substitute for the pillar.
 

 

 

 

The pantry is located on the lower deck in front of the ladderway.  It is constructed with partially louvered walls like the sail room.  In contrast to the sail room, there is a standard swinging door rather than a slider.  I finally tried to cut the slat mortises on the table saw.  I had to free-hand their locations as I could not quickly develop a jig.  A piece of 1 x 1 mm brass clamped down to the saw table would have done the trick but I did not have any and when I tried to cut wood this dimension it disintigrated.  I think they came out reasonably well.  Next time I would run out to the model railroad store a few towns away and buy the brass square as the mortises look better even though once the slats are inserted there is really no difference in appearance. 
 
The plan shows the door underneath the beam (not installed on these pictures).  I found this odd because this would limit the door height and also because a support stanchion could be incorporated into the door frame if the door was located between frames.  I built the door in the location shown on the plan.  I also decided not to put a pillar under beam 13 as this would end up in the middle of the pantry and restrict the storage possibilities.  A stanchion on the starboard wall will be the substitute for the pillar.
 

 

 

 

John and Elia, thank you for your kind comments.  Thanks for all the Likes as well.  A little more has been accomplished this weekend.  I have applied the finish to the pantry.  Beam set 14 has been installed and beam set 15 is in progess.  The middle carlings are larger to support the capstain partner.  Unlike the carlings for the mast partners, this piece is installed like a regular carling (ie from on top) rather than under the beam.
 
 

 
 

John and Elia, thank you for your kind comments.  Thanks for all the Likes as well.  A little more has been accomplished this weekend.  I have applied the finish to the pantry.  Beam set 14 has been installed and beam set 15 is in progess.  The middle carlings are larger to support the capstain partner.  Unlike the carlings for the mast partners, this piece is installed like a regular carling (ie from on top) rather than under the beam.
 
 

 
 

John and Elia, thank you for your kind comments.  Thanks for all the Likes as well.  A little more has been accomplished this weekend.  I have applied the finish to the pantry.  Beam set 14 has been installed and beam set 15 is in progess.  The middle carlings are larger to support the capstain partner.  Unlike the carlings for the mast partners, this piece is installed like a regular carling (ie from on top) rather than under the beam.
 
 

 
 

That's about the only way I can see it working too John.
 
Thanks for the comment Grant .
 
I'm going back through Volume 2 to make sure I haven't forgotten anything - I skipped a few steps every now and then as I thought it easier or better to do some things "out of sequence".
 
I've made and fitted the Upper Capstan Pawls, which are the same as those for the Lower Capstan detailed earlier in the build.
 

 
  Danny

The pantry is located on the lower deck in front of the ladderway.  It is constructed with partially louvered walls like the sail room.  In contrast to the sail room, there is a standard swinging door rather than a slider.  I finally tried to cut the slat mortises on the table saw.  I had to free-hand their locations as I could not quickly develop a jig.  A piece of 1 x 1 mm brass clamped down to the saw table would have done the trick but I did not have any and when I tried to cut wood this dimension it disintigrated.  I think they came out reasonably well.  Next time I would run out to the model railroad store a few towns away and buy the brass square as the mortises look better even though once the slats are inserted there is really no difference in appearance. 
 
The plan shows the door underneath the beam (not installed on these pictures).  I found this odd because this would limit the door height and also because a support stanchion could be incorporated into the door frame if the door was located between frames.  I built the door in the location shown on the plan.  I also decided not to put a pillar under beam 13 as this would end up in the middle of the pantry and restrict the storage possibilities.  A stanchion on the starboard wall will be the substitute for the pillar.
 

 

 

 

The pantry is located on the lower deck in front of the ladderway.  It is constructed with partially louvered walls like the sail room.  In contrast to the sail room, there is a standard swinging door rather than a slider.  I finally tried to cut the slat mortises on the table saw.  I had to free-hand their locations as I could not quickly develop a jig.  A piece of 1 x 1 mm brass clamped down to the saw table would have done the trick but I did not have any and when I tried to cut wood this dimension it disintigrated.  I think they came out reasonably well.  Next time I would run out to the model railroad store a few towns away and buy the brass square as the mortises look better even though once the slats are inserted there is really no difference in appearance. 
 
The plan shows the door underneath the beam (not installed on these pictures).  I found this odd because this would limit the door height and also because a support stanchion could be incorporated into the door frame if the door was located between frames.  I built the door in the location shown on the plan.  I also decided not to put a pillar under beam 13 as this would end up in the middle of the pantry and restrict the storage possibilities.  A stanchion on the starboard wall will be the substitute for the pillar.
 

 

 

 

The pantry is located on the lower deck in front of the ladderway.  It is constructed with partially louvered walls like the sail room.  In contrast to the sail room, there is a standard swinging door rather than a slider.  I finally tried to cut the slat mortises on the table saw.  I had to free-hand their locations as I could not quickly develop a jig.  A piece of 1 x 1 mm brass clamped down to the saw table would have done the trick but I did not have any and when I tried to cut wood this dimension it disintigrated.  I think they came out reasonably well.  Next time I would run out to the model railroad store a few towns away and buy the brass square as the mortises look better even though once the slats are inserted there is really no difference in appearance. 
 
The plan shows the door underneath the beam (not installed on these pictures).  I found this odd because this would limit the door height and also because a support stanchion could be incorporated into the door frame if the door was located between frames.  I built the door in the location shown on the plan.  I also decided not to put a pillar under beam 13 as this would end up in the middle of the pantry and restrict the storage possibilities.  A stanchion on the starboard wall will be the substitute for the pillar.
 

 

 

 

The pantry is located on the lower deck in front of the ladderway.  It is constructed with partially louvered walls like the sail room.  In contrast to the sail room, there is a standard swinging door rather than a slider.  I finally tried to cut the slat mortises on the table saw.  I had to free-hand their locations as I could not quickly develop a jig.  A piece of 1 x 1 mm brass clamped down to the saw table would have done the trick but I did not have any and when I tried to cut wood this dimension it disintigrated.  I think they came out reasonably well.  Next time I would run out to the model railroad store a few towns away and buy the brass square as the mortises look better even though once the slats are inserted there is really no difference in appearance. 
 
The plan shows the door underneath the beam (not installed on these pictures).  I found this odd because this would limit the door height and also because a support stanchion could be incorporated into the door frame if the door was located between frames.  I built the door in the location shown on the plan.  I also decided not to put a pillar under beam 13 as this would end up in the middle of the pantry and restrict the storage possibilities.  A stanchion on the starboard wall will be the substitute for the pillar.
 

 

 

 

The pantry is located on the lower deck in front of the ladderway.  It is constructed with partially louvered walls like the sail room.  In contrast to the sail room, there is a standard swinging door rather than a slider.  I finally tried to cut the slat mortises on the table saw.  I had to free-hand their locations as I could not quickly develop a jig.  A piece of 1 x 1 mm brass clamped down to the saw table would have done the trick but I did not have any and when I tried to cut wood this dimension it disintigrated.  I think they came out reasonably well.  Next time I would run out to the model railroad store a few towns away and buy the brass square as the mortises look better even though once the slats are inserted there is really no difference in appearance. 
 
The plan shows the door underneath the beam (not installed on these pictures).  I found this odd because this would limit the door height and also because a support stanchion could be incorporated into the door frame if the door was located between frames.  I built the door in the location shown on the plan.  I also decided not to put a pillar under beam 13 as this would end up in the middle of the pantry and restrict the storage possibilities.  A stanchion on the starboard wall will be the substitute for the pillar.
 

 

 

 

The pantry is located on the lower deck in front of the ladderway.  It is constructed with partially louvered walls like the sail room.  In contrast to the sail room, there is a standard swinging door rather than a slider.  I finally tried to cut the slat mortises on the table saw.  I had to free-hand their locations as I could not quickly develop a jig.  A piece of 1 x 1 mm brass clamped down to the saw table would have done the trick but I did not have any and when I tried to cut wood this dimension it disintigrated.  I think they came out reasonably well.  Next time I would run out to the model railroad store a few towns away and buy the brass square as the mortises look better even though once the slats are inserted there is really no difference in appearance. 
 
The plan shows the door underneath the beam (not installed on these pictures).  I found this odd because this would limit the door height and also because a support stanchion could be incorporated into the door frame if the door was located between frames.  I built the door in the location shown on the plan.  I also decided not to put a pillar under beam 13 as this would end up in the middle of the pantry and restrict the storage possibilities.  A stanchion on the starboard wall will be the substitute for the pillar.