tlevine

Dec. 10, 2011.  I have added the extension piece on top of the head of the knee.  This also tapers anteriorly.  Now that the counter timber and filling pieces are in place and partially faired, I have added the sills for the counter and bridal ports.  This was a real pain to do with all of the frames in the way.  I am glad that I waited until now because at this point I know the height and angle of the sills are correct.  The lower sills are cut with a bird’s mouth and the upper sills are cut with a wedge shape.  In the pictures it appears that the lower counter sill is tilted starboard but this is just shadowing.  I think that for the full frames I will add the cuts for the sills as I install the frames.
 
Extension Piece

 
Bridal and Counter Ports
 
 
I am finding it rather difficult to make the beveled chocks for the frames  I know a lot of builders use a mill but right now that is on my someday list.  Until then, only 53 more frames to go!

 
Author:  druxey.  With a little practice and a very sharp chisel, plus really meticulous mark-out, making and fitting chocks will happen more rapidly once you get used to the technique.  It is extremely difficult to get a flat faying surface using files.  The surface will tend to round over as you file it.

 
Author:  Dan Vad.  Instead of using a file to finesse my chocks, I use a flat sanding board.  I run the angled faces of the chocks one side at a time on the paper by dragging them toward me.  It takes very little time to get the “feel” for the angles and how much pressure to exert on the leading or trailing edge.   Leave plenty of width when rough-cutting the chocks in case you sand a little too much off one of the angles and need to sand a bit more off the other face to compensate – the inboard face will be faired with frames in any case.

 
Jan. 8, 2012.  The frames are going a little quicker than anticipated.  Eighteen down and a whole bunch to go!  I decided to put chocks in all the frames.  It actually is easier than plain scarf joints because of the reasons Greg stated a last month.

 
Feb. 17, 2012.  I have finally finished all of the full frames (except for the cast toptimbers).  By finished, I mean that they are all assembled and sanded to the outside line on the frame template.  I have left the templates attached to the frames until each one is ready to mount to facilitate identifying them.  As I prepare to mount them I will add the cross piece, do the final sanding of the fore and aft faces and put in the trunnels.  The cross piece will be marked in the midline to help alignment.  The first frame mounted is 14A (aft).  The heels must be trimmed to match the shape of the bearding line and a wedge-shaped piece is removed from the floor to match the top of the deadwood after fairing.
 
Completed Frames

 
Full Frame

 
Heel

 
I made a jig to help ensure that the frames are square and plumb.  I marked the midline and slotted the jig to fit over the keel.  I chose to make mine from heavy cardstock with wood supports.  I added a wood cross-brace and glued another piece of card on to the back to prevent warping. 
 
Framing Jig
 
 
I have drawn lines on the building board to represent the fore face of frames 14A and 14F.  As I add more frames I will continue to add these lines.  Everything is measured from dead flat.  The jig is then brought up to that like and squared true to the building board with machinist squares and contractor squares (at least that’s what they call them at Home Depot).  The frame is then seated and glued in place.  After the glue has set I will add spacer blocks at the top timbers.  When using the jig, remember the timber thickness decreases with each successive futtock and one face of the frame is flat but the other has a stair-step.  Frame 14A’s flat face is aft and the stair-step is fore.  Therefore the framing jig only touches the floor futtocks.  On frame 14F the flat face is fore and to the jig will be in contact with the entire frame.

Building Board Lines

 
Jig in Use
 
 

Oct. 16, 2011.  I have added the second aft cant frames.  I thought this would be a good time to show my setup.  I clamp a carpenter’s square to the building board on the aft line of the cant.  In the second picture you can also see a shim next to the square to keep the clamp from sliding off the square.  The frame is then clipped to the square and the foot is held in place with the clamp.  I tried using a square made from plexiglass but found that the transparency made things more difficult. I will therefore be very careful not to let the metal square fall on to the model.
 
Frame Setup
 
 
 
Author:  dvm27. Here is the setup I use to add frames.  I use a steel angle plate.  This sits on the aft line of the fore cant or frame (reversed aft) and the bladed machinist square is located at the maximum height of breadth on the plan.  I just add glue to the heel of the cast (or frame) and sit in place, applying gentle pressure for about 30 seconds while the glue tacks.  Thus, the frames are perfectly square to the table and the height of breadth assured.  No clamping for me.  Greg.

Greg’s Method
 

 
Nov 6, 2011.  I have finished constructing the aft cants and am in the process of mounting them.  The process is similar to mounting the fore cants but for some reason I found it easier to inadvertently tip the aft cants behind vertical. 

For anyone else building a Swan class in the future…leave the steps on the deadwood a little too long.  It is easy to trim them back later when the cants are installed.  One of my steps was too short (on both sides) and I had to narrow the foot of the cant to improve the appearance.

Aft Cants
 
 
 

 
 
Author:  Dan Vad. I found the same thing with the aft cants wanting to tip a bit – maybe something to do with their narrower profile?

Nov. 6, 2011.  Danny, I think part of the problem is an optical illusion.  They actually “seem” better when they are tilted. 
 
Nov. 13, 2011.  All of the aft cants are in place. I had to reset most of them after I tripped over the dog while carrying the model.  How I got away without serious damage (to either the ship or myself) is amazing.   I have started fairing the interior of the aft cants and have glued up the exterior stern counter timbers.
 
Aft Cants Finished
 
 
 
 
 
 
Author:  Jim Lad. Nice to hear that there was no serious damage done.  I hope the dog is OK too!  John.
 
Nov. 13, 2011.  Fairing the aft cants is more difficult than the fore cants because of the compound curves involved.  I felt is necessary to leave any fairing until they were all in place.  With the fore cants I started fairing them after only eight of them had been installed.

As for the dog…deaf, almost blind, stupid, senile but very cute (just ask him!)
 
Cocoa

 

Oct 4, 2011.  The rest of the hawse timbers are in place.  The outboard faces have been cut significantly oversized to (hopefully) prevent any mistakes on the final fairing.  The most difficult part of making the last timber is accepting the fact that the easiest way to fabricate it involves wasting a lot of wood.  TFFM Vol. III describes the technique.  I have also mounted the next three fore cant frames

Hawse timbers installed
 
 
 

Fore Cants
 
 
 
Oct. 5, 2011.  I plan on treenailing the chocks.  I will drill the exterior holes into the chocks for stability and drill the interior holes shallow for appearance.  I cut both the chocks and the scarf joints oversize and then “sneak up” on the perfect fit.  The frames have not been drilled for treenails yet because I am still debating which wood to use for the treenails.  I will be looking at Castillo box, bamboo, pear, and pau marfin.
 
Author:  dvm27. I guess everyone has their favorite method of inserting treenails.  I drew them down to fit a no. 76 drilled hole, using a Byrnes draw plate.  I use bamboo because I don’t like to make them too obvious and it doesn’t fall apart at this diameter.   Once the frame is assembled but before it is raised I drill the four holes from the outside in after pre-marking them with pencil.  It’s pretty easy to eyeball the positions and angles.  You just need to remember which direction the
pattern goes.  I insert the treenails dry, trim them close and then paint over them with a dilute white glue wash.  A dry-inserted treenail will not swell, so a tighter fit can be made.  The glue locks them in place.  Always check your choice of trunnels with the final stain you are using.  As it is the end grain of the treenail showing, it could look darker than the length of the treenail. 

Oct. 10, 2011.  I went back to the original drafts and incorporated the difference in the bow shape to a copy of the Mylar.  I found that there were two frames that would need modification.  In attempting to debond those two joints, several of the frames debonded.  The end result was most of the fore cants had to be reinstalled. 

I have given the interior a preliminary fairing of the hawser timbers and the cant lower futtocks.   The first picture shows the starboard side faired and the port side left “raw”.  The final result is in the last picture.  I have also drawn in the location for the sill between cants 3 and 5. 
 
Fairing Fore Cants
 


 
I have mounted a few more cant frames.  It is actually beginning to look like a ship!  The joints are predrilled for treenails.  I will be making the treenail pattern a mirror image on each side.  I. e. the aft treenail will be higher than the fore on either  ide.

More Fore Cants
 
  

 


 
 

 

Sept. 28, 2011.  I have made the first six fore cant frames.  I used the angle gauge on my scroll saw for cutting the angles for the bollard, hawse and cant  timbers.  I later discovered the gauge is off approx. 1 degree.  This resulted in a 2 degree cumulative error which was corrected by changing the angle of the aft end of the bollard timber by 2 degrees.  Needless to say I have bought an accurate protractor and am no longer relying on the angle gauge on the saw.  I felt this was safer than removing 1 degree on two pieces.  Of course, I had already glued and pinned the bollard timbers so this had to be done mounted on the stem.  Any internal imperfections will be hidden by further construction.  The apparent crossing of cant 3 in the first picture is a result of the camera angle. Because this is such a critical timber, I used hidden brass pins to secure them.  Wood treenails were installed externally for a uniform appearance.

 
Fore Cant 

  
 

 


 
Author:  Dan Vad. I do the 90 degree bevels with my disc sander to the angle on the pattern – also the little step where it sits on the apron.  Then I use a sanding board to shape the fore-aft angle.  My sanding board is a piece of MDF with a gloss laminate (old shelving) which I’ve cut to the size of a sanding sheet and screwed to a corner of my workbench (from underneath).  I glue 120 grit paper to it with spray-on contact cement.  I start off with a couple of rough cuts by feel on the edge that will need the most cut off, holding the frame like a pencil.  Then I use my adjustable protractor to check how close my angle is, making more cuts and adjusting my grip as needed.  As I near the “uncut” edge I check the angle again.  Etc.  This also works great when finessing the chocks.
 

Sept. 30, 2011.  I discovered that the toprail contour for Atalanta is different from the prototype.  It is lower fore, the same midships and higher aft.  The bowsprit is also at a slightly different angle.  Initially I thought that the plans had become distorted in the copying process but after taking several measurements I was convinced there was no error.  I also noticed that the fore shape of the stem is different towards the keel. 

The second and third hawser timbers have been placed.  All the hawse holes will be reshaped during the final fairing.  In the last picture you can see the temporary spacers placed in the airspace.  It always amazes me how something that looks hard is deceptively easy and something that looks easy is actually quite difficult.  As an example, the airspaces and hawse holes
looked tough to me but were easy.  But mounting the hawse timbers square, plumb and at the correct angle is very difficult.  I measured across the timbers at the airspace and full breadth lines and am shy be a scale inch.  I will make that up in the fourth timber. 

Hawse timber 2 installed

 
 
Hawse timber 3 installed
 
 
 

Beam set 7 includes the opening for the fore hatch.  These carlings are a little larger than the standard ones.  As I am building the lower deck structures as I move aft, it was time to build the aft sail room.  The fore sail room is one of the small rooms on the port side near beam set 4.  This was a fun little structure to make.  The lateral walls have louvers to allow ventilation into the room.  I do not own a mill so the mortises for the louvers were made with an 11 blade.  On Atalanta, the door into this room is a slider, not a hinged door.  Consequently, the door must be made wider than the opening and it will be on the outside wall of the sail room.  There is a pillar on the inside wall precluding placing the door there.  Not having built a sliding door before, I went over to the local stable and looked at my horse's stall door.  The latch is a L-shaped bolt on the door with a U-shaped piece of metal on the door frame to receive the bolt.  The bolt measured 3" x 4" x 3/8".  This would require making a u-shaped channel 0.01" square.  Needless to say, this is well beyond my skill set so I have a flat piece of metal on the door frame representing it instead.  Decking was placed under the assembly on the starboard side.  The last two pictures show the sail room assembly before and after a coat of finish.
 

 

 

 

 

Beam set 7 includes the opening for the fore hatch.  These carlings are a little larger than the standard ones.  As I am building the lower deck structures as I move aft, it was time to build the aft sail room.  The fore sail room is one of the small rooms on the port side near beam set 4.  This was a fun little structure to make.  The lateral walls have louvers to allow ventilation into the room.  I do not own a mill so the mortises for the louvers were made with an 11 blade.  On Atalanta, the door into this room is a slider, not a hinged door.  Consequently, the door must be made wider than the opening and it will be on the outside wall of the sail room.  There is a pillar on the inside wall precluding placing the door there.  Not having built a sliding door before, I went over to the local stable and looked at my horse's stall door.  The latch is a L-shaped bolt on the door with a U-shaped piece of metal on the door frame to receive the bolt.  The bolt measured 3" x 4" x 3/8".  This would require making a u-shaped channel 0.01" square.  Needless to say, this is well beyond my skill set so I have a flat piece of metal on the door frame representing it instead.  Decking was placed under the assembly on the starboard side.  The last two pictures show the sail room assembly before and after a coat of finish.
 

 

 

 

 

Beam set 7 includes the opening for the fore hatch.  These carlings are a little larger than the standard ones.  As I am building the lower deck structures as I move aft, it was time to build the aft sail room.  The fore sail room is one of the small rooms on the port side near beam set 4.  This was a fun little structure to make.  The lateral walls have louvers to allow ventilation into the room.  I do not own a mill so the mortises for the louvers were made with an 11 blade.  On Atalanta, the door into this room is a slider, not a hinged door.  Consequently, the door must be made wider than the opening and it will be on the outside wall of the sail room.  There is a pillar on the inside wall precluding placing the door there.  Not having built a sliding door before, I went over to the local stable and looked at my horse's stall door.  The latch is a L-shaped bolt on the door with a U-shaped piece of metal on the door frame to receive the bolt.  The bolt measured 3" x 4" x 3/8".  This would require making a u-shaped channel 0.01" square.  Needless to say, this is well beyond my skill set so I have a flat piece of metal on the door frame representing it instead.  Decking was placed under the assembly on the starboard side.  The last two pictures show the sail room assembly before and after a coat of finish.
 

 

 

 

 

Beam set 7 includes the opening for the fore hatch.  These carlings are a little larger than the standard ones.  As I am building the lower deck structures as I move aft, it was time to build the aft sail room.  The fore sail room is one of the small rooms on the port side near beam set 4.  This was a fun little structure to make.  The lateral walls have louvers to allow ventilation into the room.  I do not own a mill so the mortises for the louvers were made with an 11 blade.  On Atalanta, the door into this room is a slider, not a hinged door.  Consequently, the door must be made wider than the opening and it will be on the outside wall of the sail room.  There is a pillar on the inside wall precluding placing the door there.  Not having built a sliding door before, I went over to the local stable and looked at my horse's stall door.  The latch is a L-shaped bolt on the door with a U-shaped piece of metal on the door frame to receive the bolt.  The bolt measured 3" x 4" x 3/8".  This would require making a u-shaped channel 0.01" square.  Needless to say, this is well beyond my skill set so I have a flat piece of metal on the door frame representing it instead.  Decking was placed under the assembly on the starboard side.  The last two pictures show the sail room assembly before and after a coat of finish.
 

 

 

 

 

Beam set 7 includes the opening for the fore hatch.  These carlings are a little larger than the standard ones.  As I am building the lower deck structures as I move aft, it was time to build the aft sail room.  The fore sail room is one of the small rooms on the port side near beam set 4.  This was a fun little structure to make.  The lateral walls have louvers to allow ventilation into the room.  I do not own a mill so the mortises for the louvers were made with an 11 blade.  On Atalanta, the door into this room is a slider, not a hinged door.  Consequently, the door must be made wider than the opening and it will be on the outside wall of the sail room.  There is a pillar on the inside wall precluding placing the door there.  Not having built a sliding door before, I went over to the local stable and looked at my horse's stall door.  The latch is a L-shaped bolt on the door with a U-shaped piece of metal on the door frame to receive the bolt.  The bolt measured 3" x 4" x 3/8".  This would require making a u-shaped channel 0.01" square.  Needless to say, this is well beyond my skill set so I have a flat piece of metal on the door frame representing it instead.  Decking was placed under the assembly on the starboard side.  The last two pictures show the sail room assembly before and after a coat of finish.
 

 

 

 

 

Beam set 7 includes the opening for the fore hatch.  These carlings are a little larger than the standard ones.  As I am building the lower deck structures as I move aft, it was time to build the aft sail room.  The fore sail room is one of the small rooms on the port side near beam set 4.  This was a fun little structure to make.  The lateral walls have louvers to allow ventilation into the room.  I do not own a mill so the mortises for the louvers were made with an 11 blade.  On Atalanta, the door into this room is a slider, not a hinged door.  Consequently, the door must be made wider than the opening and it will be on the outside wall of the sail room.  There is a pillar on the inside wall precluding placing the door there.  Not having built a sliding door before, I went over to the local stable and looked at my horse's stall door.  The latch is a L-shaped bolt on the door with a U-shaped piece of metal on the door frame to receive the bolt.  The bolt measured 3" x 4" x 3/8".  This would require making a u-shaped channel 0.01" square.  Needless to say, this is well beyond my skill set so I have a flat piece of metal on the door frame representing it instead.  Decking was placed under the assembly on the starboard side.  The last two pictures show the sail room assembly before and after a coat of finish.
 

 

 

 

 

Continuing with the capstan-
 
As I looked again at various capstans to glean some details I was still fuzzy on, there seemed to be more space between the whelps than I was coming up with, and it dawned on me that what I wanted to make had only six whelps instead of eight.   The eight capstan bars that I saw on models, I mistakenly took to correspond to eight whelps as well.   Not so in this case.
 
Upon learning this, my octagonal post was not going to do me any good and I sanded it round.  I glued two opposing whelps to it, and test fit this on the deck--
 

 
 
The height seemed about right, and I glued the remaining whelps on by eye, trying to make sure they were perpendicular to the shaft, equally spaced, and all at the same height--
 

 

 
 
Next I made the chocks.  Two sets would be needed, and I used the same technique as for the whelps: cut out blanks, glue them into a block, and sand them to the desired shape--
 

 
 
Here I have sanded one chock block and am test fitting it--
 

 
 
Here are my two chock blocks--
 

 
 
These were separated in hot water, and glued into place--
 

 
 
They need to be filed down to the same profile as the whelps--
 

 

 
 
I then tried this out on the deck again, and pondered exactly how to make the capstan head--
 

 
 
Incidentally, you see the mast I had made, on the deck.  It will be a do-over.   I found some better information on mast tapering (from my old friend Charles G. Davis, no surprise), learned I had made a mistake ( a couple, actually).    Oh, well.  This one will do fine for helping me make the mast partners and locate the right chain plate angles.
 
 
I started the capstan head by drawing the location of the eight capstan bars on a piece of paper--
 

 
 
Then I did some measuring, marking and sketched out the shape of a "capstan bar chock" that would be sandwiched between two discs, and create the square capstan bar hole--
 

 
 
Once again, the chock block technique was employed to create eight uniform chocks--
 

 
 
These were separated and tested out on the drawing--
 

 
 
I cut some "stand in" capstan bars out of stock exactly the same thickness as the chocks, so I would end up with square holes.  These were glued onto the paper, centered on the lines I had drawn--
 

 
 
Then I glued the spacer chocks onto the paper, between the stand-in capstan bars--
 

 
 
It didn't matter that the spacer chocks extended unevenly beyond the outline of the capstan head, the excess would be sanded away.  The bars were removed--
 

 
 
Then the top disc of the head was glued to the spacers--
 
 
 
 
When the glue set, the assembly was removed from the paper--
 
 

 
 
The bottom disc was glued on, and extending bits of chock were sanded away--
 

 
 
Here it is partway through the sanding--
 

 
 
When it was smooth and as round as I could make it (it rolled across the table pretty well), I glued it to the whelp assembly--
 

 
 
And tried it out on the deck--
 

 

 
 
I will make the pawl mechanism and attach that to the deck, then it's done.
 
 
Ron

Ben,
 
I always had problems with the after market micro chucks for the Dremel.  Drill Bit City sells resharpened carbide micro drills that are fantastic.  (And the prices are similar to HSS bits.)  Because they are carbide, they are more brittle and work best with a steady hand or in a drill press.  They have a standard shaft that fits into a regular collet for the Dremel, resulting in much less wobble and a true-to-size hole.  Usual disclaimers.   

The sixth beam set is relatively straight forward.  The aft bulkhead for the boatswain's cabin was temporarily removed to make installation easier.  The pillar is supposed to go through the hatch coaming.  I cheated and it is simply glued to the surface of the coaming.  There is a tenon on the superior aspect of the pillar with a mortise on the under surface of the beam.
 

 

 

 

The bitt standards are knees that extend anteriorly from the bitt pin.  They are let into the deck beams and ledges by 1".  I rough-cut the standard and then cut in the notches using the Preac saw with the blade elevated 1" above the table.  To make things more interesting, the round-up of the deck needs to be taken into consideration.  Also, the deck slopes upward towards the bow but the bitt pin is perpendicular to the water line.  That angle had to be cut on the aft side of the standard so it would fit snuggly against the pin.  Once I was happy with the fit, I transferred the shape of the standard onto the rough piece and cut it to the correct shape.  The edges are beveled.
 

 

 
After the starboard standard was fabricated, the port one was made.  The pictures show the port standard before and after final shaping.
 

 

 

 
The standards are bolted to the underlying frames.  The cable stopper hole is drilled near the intersection of the pin and the floor height.  It is 2.75" in diameter.  I used a #60 drill bit and then enlarged and rounded over the hole with Swiss needle files.  The hole is barely visible in the last photo.  The color difference betweeen the pin and the standard is because I put finish on the pin but will be delaying putting any finish on the standard until after the deck has been installed.
 

 

Thanks again Michael and E&T.
 
The Treenailing is all finished as far as the decks are concerned. I've filed all the "nails" down with a Riffler File and sanded both decks with 600 grit paper. They have received their first coat of Minwax Wipe-on Poly :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Next will come the Timberheads and Swivel Gun Mounts, along with the Caprails and Bulwark Planking. These will add a much more "finished" look to the upper hull.
 
  Danny

The sixth beam set is relatively straight forward.  The aft bulkhead for the boatswain's cabin was temporarily removed to make installation easier.  The pillar is supposed to go through the hatch coaming.  I cheated and it is simply glued to the surface of the coaming.  There is a tenon on the superior aspect of the pillar with a mortise on the under surface of the beam.
 

 

 

 

The sixth beam set is relatively straight forward.  The aft bulkhead for the boatswain's cabin was temporarily removed to make installation easier.  The pillar is supposed to go through the hatch coaming.  I cheated and it is simply glued to the surface of the coaming.  There is a tenon on the superior aspect of the pillar with a mortise on the under surface of the beam.
 

 

 

 

The crosspiece of the bitts is comprised of two different wood species.  The fore section is oak and the thinner aft section is elm.  Both of these are light-colored species so I did not want a stark contrast between the two pieces.  I used pau marfin for the "elm".  The crosspiece is attached to each pin with two bolts.  The metal work for the bitt will wait until I have a few other metal projects, although the holes to accept the metal pieces have already been drilled.
 

 

 

The sixth beam set is relatively straight forward.  The aft bulkhead for the boatswain's cabin was temporarily removed to make installation easier.  The pillar is supposed to go through the hatch coaming.  I cheated and it is simply glued to the surface of the coaming.  There is a tenon on the superior aspect of the pillar with a mortise on the under surface of the beam.
 

 

 

 

The sixth beam set is relatively straight forward.  The aft bulkhead for the boatswain's cabin was temporarily removed to make installation easier.  The pillar is supposed to go through the hatch coaming.  I cheated and it is simply glued to the surface of the coaming.  There is a tenon on the superior aspect of the pillar with a mortise on the under surface of the beam.
 

 

 

 

Hello,
 
many thanks for the nice comments.
 
Today I will show how the target device of the carronade is made.
The pictures illustrate the process.
 

 

 

 

 

 

The NRG has now started publishing book reviews online in addition to in the Nautical Research Journal.
 
 
 
 
 
https://thenrg.org/resource/books
 
 
 
 
 
If you have a moment,  please check it out.   It may be of interest to all of you.
 
 
 
 
 
Chuck
 

The sixth beam set is relatively straight forward.  The aft bulkhead for the boatswain's cabin was temporarily removed to make installation easier.  The pillar is supposed to go through the hatch coaming.  I cheated and it is simply glued to the surface of the coaming.  There is a tenon on the superior aspect of the pillar with a mortise on the under surface of the beam.
 

 

 

 

The sixth beam set is relatively straight forward.  The aft bulkhead for the boatswain's cabin was temporarily removed to make installation easier.  The pillar is supposed to go through the hatch coaming.  I cheated and it is simply glued to the surface of the coaming.  There is a tenon on the superior aspect of the pillar with a mortise on the under surface of the beam.
 

 

 

 

The bitt standards are knees that extend anteriorly from the bitt pin.  They are let into the deck beams and ledges by 1".  I rough-cut the standard and then cut in the notches using the Preac saw with the blade elevated 1" above the table.  To make things more interesting, the round-up of the deck needs to be taken into consideration.  Also, the deck slopes upward towards the bow but the bitt pin is perpendicular to the water line.  That angle had to be cut on the aft side of the standard so it would fit snuggly against the pin.  Once I was happy with the fit, I transferred the shape of the standard onto the rough piece and cut it to the correct shape.  The edges are beveled.
 

 

 
After the starboard standard was fabricated, the port one was made.  The pictures show the port standard before and after final shaping.
 

 

 

 
The standards are bolted to the underlying frames.  The cable stopper hole is drilled near the intersection of the pin and the floor height.  It is 2.75" in diameter.  I used a #60 drill bit and then enlarged and rounded over the hole with Swiss needle files.  The hole is barely visible in the last photo.  The color difference betweeen the pin and the standard is because I put finish on the pin but will be delaying putting any finish on the standard until after the deck has been installed.